Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

[Gypsymoth82]

Crashing the hardcore sizing/pattern/measurements discussion with a small initial impressions / show and tell / please give fit feedback post about the Vanson jacket that reached me last Monday (finally got a friend to take some fit pics outside last evening).

Got it from Italy through Vinted for ~450eu using @Marc mndt as a proxy. Huge thanks for that!
Chopper size S from Union Garage according to the seller:
https://uniongaragenyc.com/products/vanson-chopper-jacket
I'd say it's a size 36.
Leather : X150

Measurements (in cm) + indicating the deviation from my current theoretical ideal (yes I know measurements are not everything):
- Pit to pit : 51 (~2cm too wide)
- Waist : 47 (~4 cm too wide)
- Hem : 43
- Sleeve : 62
- Shoulders : 45
- Cuff open : 14
- Cuff closed : 11
- Bicep : 19
- Forearm : 16,5
- Arm hole : 24
- Back drop: 2 (shirt tail, back longer than front)
- Back : 66 (~4cm too long)
- Front length : 64 (~4cm too long)

Fit / measurement issues:
- Body too long (major)
- Waist too wide (medium)
- Chest too wide (minor)

Technical issues with this specific jacket:
- Zipper tape at the insert pin fraying/splitting (Major, not sure how to go about it)
- Some lining separating/splitting at the armpits (Minor, will get fixed)
Also plastic male insert pin and female stopper at the bottom are not ideal either. But it's original by Vanson.

Feel:
Heaviest jacket I've ever seen in my short career (so far) in this hobby. The folded collar really wants to dig into my collar bones when worn unzipper or partially zipped. Very moto/riding oriented - moving arms forward is a dream, moving them back - not so much. The double heavy duty hem cinch is rather overkill and shifts a lot of the weight of the jacket to the bottom hem. The stiff and heavy kidney panel doesn't help either in this perspective.

Future:
Haven't decided whether to keep it yet or not. I'd only be using it as a casual jacket for the nearest future as I don't ride. Might be a bit too much / too hardcore for that. On the other hand it's a very nice piece to keep as a reference point of a certain extreme. And it seems to fit ok.

Here are some fit pics and a pic of the zipper insert pin issue.
From my perspective apart from the length the jacket looks like it fits pretty good as a t-shirt only (as in the pictures).
Fits and feels even better layered.
Please give feedback about the fit! Decided not to make a separate thread about it..
Also these photos make me realize how crooked / parallel shifted my neck is haha.

View attachment 521277 View attachment 521278 View attachment 521279 View attachment 521280 View attachment 521281
View attachment 521282 View attachment 521283 View attachment 521284 View attachment 521285

Looks killer. Also you can fix the posture thing......it's worth it to do while you are young!

 

[stringer]

I agree with Jmax, a 2 way zip is great, but be aware that they tend to rattle when unzipped and can be a bit finicky to zip up.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Crashing the hardcore sizing/pattern/measurements discussion with a small initial impressions / show and tell / please give fit feedback post about the Vanson jacket that reached me last Monday (finally got a friend to take some fit pics outside last evening).

Got it from Italy through Vinted for ~450eu using @Marc mndt as a proxy. Huge thanks for that!
Chopper size S from Union Garage according to the seller:
https://uniongaragenyc.com/products/vanson-chopper-jacket
I'd say it's a size 36.
Leather : X150

Measurements (in cm) + indicating the deviation from my current theoretical ideal (yes I know measurements are not everything):
- Pit to pit : 51 (~2cm too wide)
- Waist : 47 (~4 cm too wide)
- Hem : 43
- Sleeve : 62
- Shoulders : 45
- Cuff open : 14
- Cuff closed : 11
- Bicep : 19
- Forearm : 16,5
- Arm hole : 24
- Back drop: 2 (shirt tail, back longer than front)
- Back : 66 (~4cm too long)
- Front length : 64 (~4cm too long)

Fit / measurement issues:
- Body too long (major)
- Waist too wide (medium)
- Chest too wide (minor)

Technical issues with this specific jacket:
- Zipper tape at the insert pin fraying/splitting (Major, not sure how to go about it)
- Some lining separating/splitting at the armpits (Minor, will get fixed)
Also plastic male insert pin and female stopper at the bottom are not ideal either. But it's original by Vanson.

Feel:
Heaviest jacket I've ever seen in my short career (so far) in this hobby. The folded collar really wants to dig into my collar bones when worn unzipper or partially zipped. Very moto/riding oriented - moving arms forward is a dream, moving them back - not so much. The double heavy duty hem cinch is rather overkill and shifts a lot of the weight of the jacket to the bottom hem. The stiff and heavy kidney panel doesn't help either in this perspective.

Future:
Haven't decided whether to keep it yet or not. I'd only be using it as a casual jacket for the nearest future as I don't ride. Might be a bit too much / too hardcore for that. On the other hand it's a very nice piece to keep as a reference point of a certain extreme. And it seems to fit ok.

Here are some fit pics and a pic of the zipper insert pin issue.
From my perspective apart from the length the jacket looks like it fits pretty good as a t-shirt only (as in the pictures).
Fits and feels even better layered.
Please give feedback about the fit! Decided not to make a separate thread about it..
Also these photos make me realize how crooked / parallel shifted my neck is haha.

View attachment 521277 View attachment 521278 View attachment 521279 View attachment 521280 View attachment 521281
View attachment 521282 View attachment 521283 View attachment 521284 View attachment 521285

Very nice jacket. They don't make the X150 leather anymore. Lots of CW on the 2nd hand market but not so much the X150 or the Octagon.
Like what other said, two way zip will take care of the front ride up issue. The back is a little longer with the beavertail but your whole look is good. Nice find, keep it.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Michael Van Der Sleesen + Jamie Goodson = Vanson

 

[Canuck Panda]

“Jacknife“ Enfield

And license pocket on the wind flap

 

[abone]

Picked up my new to me Vanson Model C in size 44 today. According to the seller he’s the original owner, bought at Vanson in Boston in 1990.
No identifier # in the pocket so not sure when they started to stamp their jackets. Maybe someone here knows? All talon zips.
Previous owner says it’s comp weight, and it weighs in at 4.5 lbs on my luggage scale which is about the same as my Vanson Raid in 42 (fits more like a 44). My 42 Chopper is 6 lbs for comparison.
As you can see in the photos it has a nice front drop, about 1 1/2” so it covers the belt line, which I prefer.
The jacket is in extremely good condition and included the original belt. Quilted lining is like new.
The color is a bit burgandyish. The photos on eBay were more chocolate brown but in natural light as you can see there is a reddish pop. I’m a bit undecided on that but it’ll probably grow on me. If I do decide to darken maybe all it needs is a treatment with dubbin or Huberds. Comments on that are welcomed.
The best part is it’s a very good fit. I’ve just cleaned and conditioned with saddle soap so it’s drying now. Fit pic later.

 

[photo2u]

I would keep the same color. I have never seen this color in a Vanson. By the lighting, it reminds me of my older LW car coat tan in HH. 4.5 lbs. is a little light for this size jacket. However, I think is sturdy enough for anything thrown it's way.

 

[abone]

I would keep the same color. I have never seen this color in a Vanson. By the lighting, it reminds me of my older LW car coat tan in HH. 4.5 lbs. is a little light for this size jacket. However, I think is sturdy enough for anything thrown it's way.

Thanks! My luggage scale might not be very accurate but it did surprise me coming in at 4.5. The leather feels thick enough. To be honest I was surprised my Raid weighed the same because it feels like a tank.

 

[abone]

Fit pics

 

[photo2u]

Fit pics

Perfect fit. It is a keeper!

 

[abone]

Many thanks to @ton312 who first told me about the C and it’s slightly longer profile. Didn’t know such a beast existed so started the hunt.

 

[abone]

I would keep the same color. I have never seen this color in a Vanson. By the lighting, it reminds me of my older LW car coat tan in HH. 4.5 lbs. is a little light for this size jacket. However, I think is sturdy enough for anything thrown its way.

Tried my kitchen scale which is more sensitive and goes to 9 lbs. The jacket weighs 5.75 lbs with belt and 5.25 without.

 

[photo2u]

That is comp weight.

 

[abone]

That is comp weight.

I called Vanson this morning and spoke to Kim. She said the jacket was probably built in 1989 and confirmed its comp weight. Embossed ID #’s came in early 90’s. Mine would have the # written with chalk inside under the lining.

 

[JMax]

What’s left of my Vanson pack—

 

[Al 916]

What’s left of my Vanson pack—

View attachment 527787 View attachment 527788

All four are beautiful

 

[TartuWolf]

@JMax That cordovan Chopper is nuts. I think it has reached legendary status on TFL.

 

[Leather Walker]

@JMax That cordovan Chopper is nuts. I think it has reached legendary status on TFL.

I can’t agree more.

 

[abone]

What’s left of my Vanson pack—

View attachment 527787 View attachment 527788

Octagon Chopper and HD Cycle Champ in the bottom pic; top pic is Model B (or A?) but what is the perforated cross zip? Never seen that before.

 

[JMax]

Octagon Chopper and HD Cycle Champ in the bottom pic; top pic is Model B (or A?) but what is the perforated cross zip? Never seen that before.

The X zip is the Force. Great riding jacket. They also make it w/o the perforation. The CR is the Comet. I prefer it to both the A and B when riding, due to the shorter length. Off the bike I’d go with a B; not a fan of the A’s back design.