Toppers Unite

[Charlie Huang]

Okay, the rendering was a success and now I have tallow! Tomorrow is when the experiment begins...

The guinea pig is the Dutch silk. I am going to apply the tallow (after melting it) on the hat using a silk covered cottonwool pad. I think I must not overload it otherwise the hat would be saturated and greasy nor should I not use enough and the application becomes uneven.

Afterwards, my blog will be updated or completely rewritten. Watch this space.

 

[fenris]

I don't own a top hat, but here's one I've seen. It was worn by the guy conducting the tour of the old city of Intramuros (Old Manila here in the Philippines). He wore it as a costume while discussing the Spanish era.

It isn't silk... it looks like a fur felt one. Didn't get to sneak a peek inside to see the liner, but I did get a glimpse of the sweatband which was kinda old looking.

...well, I'm assuming it's a top hat. hehehe.

 

[Charlie Huang]

It looks like a cheap wool felt one to me.

 

[fenris]

It looks like a cheap wool felt one to me.

Could be... he was using it as costume prop, so maybe it isn't a fur felt. It looks pretty beat up and old, though.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Right, I've tried a new polishing method in the meantime.

This method is set out in H. L. Ermatinger's Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovation (1919).

A silk pad is created using some taffeta silk stuffed with cottonwool (a bit like a velvet pad), the iron is set to max and the pad is placed against it to heat it up. Afterwards, the pad is taken away and then ran quickly on the silk plush in the nap direction, reheating on the iron when necessary. The result is better than dry brushing with a velvet pad alone as the heat causes the nap to lie flatter against the surface.

However, water polishing imparts a sleeker shine. But I have noticed that my nap is lifting after the water polishing which I don't know why. I think that as the water evaporates, the strands and nap lift as there's no moisture to hold the nap flat. Strange given that the first polishing lasted over a year whilst this new polishing has it lifting in but minutes. Maybe it is drying too quickly? I think tallow is the correct substance to use as the tallow doesn't evaporate so that you can brish it up later and not need to apply the tallow again.

 

[Lokar]

I take it it's not as good as a wet polish, though?

Looking forward to the results of the tallow experiment.

 

[Charlie Huang]

No, not as good but I think there are flaws to the water method. Patey's did advise me not to use it as it makes the silk stiff, hence, if you scruff it, you need to apply more water and then there is the whole nap lifting issue that could happen.

Even when I scruff my Truefitt that was polished with tallow by Patey, I could restore it exactly how it looked like when I got it back by velvet pad brushing which means the tallow holds the strands together. The result is very soft and luminous rather than the very hard looking water polished hat. Anyways, tomorrow I will tell all.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

However, water polishing imparts a sleeker shine. But I have noticed that my nap is lifting after the water polishing which I don't know why. I think that as the water evaporates, the strands and nap lift as there's no moisture to hold the nap flat. Strange given that the first polishing lasted over a year whilst this new polishing has it lifting in but minutes.

I've had the same problem with the nap lifting as it dries, creating a very uneven surface. Dry brushing evens out the nap, but the surface is not slick anymore.

I've read about the Ermatinger method, indeed I posted it earlier in this thread; I'll have to try it.

Eager to hear how the tallow works for you.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Here is an interesting Guardian interview with Ted Whitcombe, the carriage attendant at The Dorchester Hotel, Mayfair. Scroll down to the paragraph headed "The hat looks heavy." Speaking of the top hat he wears daily, Ted says, "Mine tend to last me - I polish them with tallow to get the shine - so I only need to get a new one every year."

Charlie, you should ring him up and ask where he gets his tallow. I'll bet he uses some purified form of tallow, filtered and treated with preservatives, etc. I doubt that he renders his own from beef suet.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Well, the ones he has are made of fur melsuine (hunting weight given it is heavy) by what he says.

He's retired so I can't get into contact with him anyways...

 

[Garrett]

Just snagged this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130364159513&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

[dhermann1]

Hope it's not really "beaver fur skin"!
This thread is really motivating me to get that snazzy topper I purchased from you properly restored by Patey's, Garrett.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Hope it's not really "beaver fur skin"!
This thread is really motivating me to get that snazzy topper I purchased from you properly restored by Patey's, Garrett.

It's silk.

If you intend to wear the topper then yes, by all means send to off to be restored. Personally, I would go in person so you get measured up, etc.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Before:

After:

 

[Lokar]

Very nice!

 

[Chasseur]

Nice! :cheers1:

Still waiting on mine to get back from Patey's...

 

[Charlie Huang]

Nice! :cheers1:

Still waiting on mine to get back from Patey's...

Really? What did they sent it via? Tracking? Insurance?

 

[Chasseur]

They've not been very communicative with information since telling me it was going to ship at the end of May... I'll keep you posted on developments...

 

[Charlie Huang]

They can be like that as they are a workshop. It ought to have arrived by now unless it has been lost in the post... I'll pray for its safe return to you.

BTW, the blog has been updated:

http://charlesrupertdomeki.wordpress.com/2009/05/14/guide-to-polishing-a-top-hat/

 

[Brad Bowers]

They've not been very communicative with information since telling me it was going to ship at the end of May... I'll keep you posted on developments...

I'd be interested in hearing about your experiences with Patey's, and what work you had done. I'm considering sending my C&K topper to them to have the binding and sweatband replaced, so I can wear it. (Where I'll wear it I don't have any idea. I did wear it to the classroom yesterday for a lecture on the fur trade.)

Brad