Thoughts about Japanese brands

[Superfluous]

Just kidding HD — “leaning heavily Greek” is subject to other interpretations.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Isn't this the Outerwear section?..or was I transported out the back door....

 

[Winthorpe]

I am a German who did his final year at college in the UK, is married to a Japanese and has been living in the US for the last 20 years. I’ve been able to travel all over the world with the exception of Australia/ New Zealand (although I have a fair amount of Aussie colleagues at work).

All that said, there is nothing like Japan anywhere else on the globe. The average quality of (pretty much) everything is very high. That doesn’t mean that everything is through the roof perfect, but I never really experienced anything that I would consider sub-par. The stunning part is that it applies to food, housing, hotels, public transport, groceries, clothing, …

In Germany things are also of very high standards, but the big difference is that Germans like German stuff. The Japanese however like the best regardless where it is from. They love suits from Italy, work boots from the US (White’s and Redwing are huge in Japan) and motorcycle jackets from the US (Langlitz) and the UK (Lewis Leathers).

Once they like something they first try to replicate it and then make it better with an amount of dedication and focus I haven’t seen anywhere else. Some of the best Italian food I had was in Japan, not Italy. Then there are always hot trends. One year it is macarons from France, the next year it is stollen from Germany. Once something is hot they go all in. American Vintage and work wear is one of those trends. American work boots are particularly trendy right now. They match the aesthetics of their American counterpart, but the finishing and attention to details is much better.

Like Superflous said that doesn’t mean that all Japanese clothing producers are that stellar (otherwise no one could afford clothes as the stellar producers are very expensive), but the ones that are I would truly consider among the very best from what I’ve seen and own.

 

[Mich486]

Some of the best Italian food I had was in Japan, not Italy. .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Big J]

For the purpose of full disclosure, I've lived in Japan for over 20 years, I did my doctoral research here. I'm fluent in Japanese and have a Japanese wife and kids.

Japan has a never ending stream of data falsification problems. Off the top of my head, I can think of killer airbags, failing brakes, falsified checks on nuclear reactor critical components, falsified earthquake damper performance, substandard supplies of aircraft components, falsified accounting at several top Japanese brands, HIV tainted infusions in hospitals, TB epidemic, substandard bullet train components that failed, substandard foundations leading to new apartment buildings being demolished, falsified construction data in tunnels that collapsed, etc, etc, often on-going for decades without prosecution.

Trains here really are late as often as in Europe.

That's not to say Japan is 'bad', but it's not 'better' either.

I think that the Japanese are very good at hiding their skeletons, and working very hard to promote the image that they want you to buy into; it's almost a national duty.

These days most Japanese products are mass produced in other Asian countries, so quality is not especially great.

There are a small number of companies making relatively niche clothing. They are selling a fetishized image of Americana for other Japanese.

Likewise, many foreigners who visit Japan are already loaded up with 'Japan myths' and images, and when they come to Japan, not being able to speak or read Japanese fluently, they see what they want to see, and what Japan will let them see. It's all very superficial.

Japan benefitted massively from postwar US technology transfer that enabled it to produce uniforms and such for the US military in Korea and Vietnam. That's the main reason they were able to knock out great repro stuff- the original machines and know-how was already here.

In the same way that postwar US manufacturers used their machines to make civilian clothes after the war, the Japanese have worked out that they can make vintage civilian clothes with the original machines they were making military reproductions on.

I love BR flight jackets. But the whole 'American vintage' scene in Japan is kind of a circle-jerk of people who go on 5 day tour group trips to the US, and only see the highlights.

The same way people who visit Japan don't see the staggering number of kids in poverty, workplace bullying, crumbling schools, or offices that still function on fax machines as a norm.

Both sides are suffering delusions.

 

[Mich486]

Very interesting BigJ.

I guess what you say about them having the know-how to make repro stuff which is why we keep them in high regard when it comes to workwear/repro Americana etc.

As for the rest, well I’m really not thinking about Japan if I have to buy a new car and their houses don’t really look that solid to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ton312]

I think that the Japanese are very good at hiding their skeletons, and working very hard to promote the image that they want you to buy into; it's almost a national duty.

Brilliant post BigJ and this is what I've suspected. It's funny that in America the trend is now the opposite, with civilians and civil leaders wearing their ignorance as some sort of badge of honor to be boasted about. Thanks for the post, as usual from you, very informative and educational.

 

[Monitor]

For the purpose of full disclosure, I've lived in Japan for over 20 years, I did my doctoral research here. I'm fluent in Japanese and have a Japanese wife and kids.

Japan has a never ending stream of data falsification problems. Off the top of my head, I can think of killer airbags, failing brakes, falsified checks on nuclear reactor critical components, falsified earthquake damper performance, substandard supplies of aircraft components, falsified accounting at several top Japanese brands, HIV tainted infusions in hospitals, TB epidemic, substandard bullet train components that failed, substandard foundations leading to new apartment buildings being demolished, falsified construction data in tunnels that collapsed, etc, etc, often on-going for decades without prosecution.

Trains here really are late as often as in Europe.

That's not to say Japan is 'bad', but it's not 'better' either.

I think that the Japanese are very good at hiding their skeletons, and working very hard to promote the image that they want you to buy into; it's almost a national duty.

These days most Japanese products are mass produced in other Asian countries, so quality is not especially great.

There are a small number of companies making relatively niche clothing. They are selling a fetishized image of Americana for other Japanese.

Likewise, many foreigners who visit Japan are already loaded up with 'Japan myths' and images, and when they come to Japan, not being able to speak or read Japanese fluently, they see what they want to see, and what Japan will let them see. It's all very superficial.

Japan benefitted massively from postwar US technology transfer that enabled it to produce uniforms and such for the US military in Korea and Vietnam. That's the main reason they were able to knock out great repro stuff- the original machines and know-how was already here.

In the same way that postwar US manufacturers used their machines to make civilian clothes after the war, the Japanese have worked out that they can make vintage civilian clothes with the original machines they were making military reproductions on.

I love BR flight jackets. But the whole 'American vintage' scene in Japan is kind of a circle-jerk of people who go on 5 day tour group trips to the US, and only see the highlights.

The same way people who visit Japan don't see the staggering number of kids in poverty, workplace bullying, crumbling schools, or offices that still function on fax machines as a norm.

Both sides are suffering delusions.

You almost make it sound like they're only human. I cannot accept that, same as I cannot accept that Anime isn't the highest form of visual art that ever was.

 

[ton312]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed! There's no way in Hell I'm getting a better braciole in Japan. LOL. Unless there's some Kobe flank steak I don't know about...

 

[Benny Holiday]

Extremely informative & interesting posts from Winthorpe & Big J.

Personally I love looking at the Japanese repro goods though I can't afford most of them with the devalued AUD. I do have two pairs of Sugar Cane 30s-style work trousers & quality wise their great. But so are my SJC trousers from the UK. I just guess overall I feel lucky to be able to have access via the 'net to so many repro goods today, from Pike Bros in Germany to Thedi in Greece. Japan is just another provider of cool vintage-inspired goods to me from a buyer's perspective but they sure do have some great (high-end) items.

 

[Sloan1874]

The one thing I have a problem with when it comes to Japanese makers is that the fit does not necessarily suit western body shapes. Buzz t-shirts tend to be shorter than standard with high arm holes, but not particularly fitted bodies, so you have to size up, which means the body can end up a bit bell-like.

 

[tmitchell59]

About a month ago I read a thread here, long faded away, about Japanese auction proxy sites. I had looked at the different Japanese sites before with some interest, but never pursued buying anything. The Japanese brand jackets I have I bought here in the USA. This time I decided to take the plunge and signed up now I member to proxy sites. I started searching for vintage jackets. I found several, ended up buying one. It's a usa-made Sears top line from the late 30s. It doesn't fit me personally, but fits my collection. I was very happy to get it and the price was easily one I would have paid on eBay here. The whole process went very smoothly. During the wait for the auction in I searched every day for various leather jackets. Running searches with different brands I could think of from articles here. As you search you uncover jackets from Brands and companies that I hadn't heard of. Tenderloin, Warehouse, style eyes and on and on. I've now picked out several jackets that I would like to own and went to find in my size.

The jackets I am pursuing can't be found anywhere else. Japanese brand make unique interesting jackets that no one else is making. The Brand's I listed above may not be the highest in, but their designs materials and execution seem to be right on. Again, they're making jackets no one else makes. Get on there and search for Cossack jackets or shawl collars. You will be amazed at the variety of materials and designs.

If I could wear a 38 40 I would have bought at least four jackets by now. And the four would not necessarily have broken the bank. These areSecond Hand Jack it's not new. Good thing I'm not a 38 or 40!. I'll probably find one at some point

 

[willyto]

The one thing I have a problem with when it comes to Japanese makers is that the fit does not necessarily suit western body shapes. Buzz t-shirts tend to be shorter than standard with high arm holes, but not particularly fitted bodies, so you have to size up, which means the body can end up a bit bell-like.

Buy Eastman Leather Clothing ones. Made in japan but a great fit, snug body and high armholes. Loopwheeled.

 

[Superfluous]

The one thing I have a problem with when it comes to Japanese makers is that the fit does not necessarily suit western body shapes.

This varies dramatically from brand to brand. There are certain Japanese brands -- e.g., Studio D'Artisan and Toys McCoys -- that produce some great stuff, but are almost always too small in one or more dimensions for traditional Western body shapes. Most common for me, the sleeves are too short and/or even the largest chest width is too small. I love the Toys McCoys Beck 666 repro, but it is way too short. This is also my problem with Freewheelers' leather jackets -- the Caboose is too narrow and too short -- the Speed Master is too narrow. Oddly, FW's non-leather jackets (and shirts) fit me great.

There are other Japanese brands that are consistently much better for Westerners. The best example for me is The Real McCoys. Most of RMC's products are available with longer arms and wider chests (although RMC just introduced two wonderful shirts that have unfortunately short sleeves). Over the years, I have focused my shopping on brands that are more suitable to my body shape, and I largely disregard certain other brands that make wonderful products that rarely fit me.

If I could wear a 38 40 I would have bought at least four jackets by now. And the four would not necessarily have broken the bank. These areSecond Hand Jack it's not new. Good thing I'm not a 38 or 40!. I'll probably find one at some point

This is my problem as well. Yahoo Japan has some wonderful stuff, but the overwhelming majority of the jackets are a 36, 38 or 40 (40 is less common in my experience). 42s (my size) are very rare, and 44s are essentially non-existent. I too would have purchased many jackets from Yahoo Japan if there were more 42s available.

As you search you uncover jackets from Brands and companies that I hadn't heard of. Tenderloin, Warehouse, style eyes and on and on.

I am very familiar with Warehouse and own several of their products. This is another Japanese brand that makes high quality clothing that often fit Western body shapes. I was not familiar with Tenderloin. I took a quick look -- interesting jackets, but unwearable for me due to the very short arm lengths.

I found several, ended up buying one. It's a usa-made Sears top line from the late 30s.

I have decided that I want to buy a vintage Sears Hercules (the GW Imperial style) and a vintage Beck 666. The problem is that I have no idea how to source these jackets at a fair price.

 

[Winthorpe]

To further feed Luke, some of the best Danish pastries and German cabbage rolls I had were in Japan. On-par with what you get in Denmark and Germany, among the best I have had.

That I feel is what makes Japan special, the breadth of quality offerings from all around the globe, on par with what you get in the respective countries. In Italy you get excellent Italian food regardless of going to a high-end restaurant or simple trattoria, but getting a truly great Japanese, German or French meal is much harder if not available at all. That is what differentiates Japan.

Does that mean that Japan is the perfect country? Of course not. After all they are only humans as well and have their own issues as Big J pointed out. The constant drive for perfection takes a toll as well.

However when it comes to the products that are being discussed on this forum the result of this is that they produce some of the best there are. They take the best they can find on the globe, replicate it and then further improve it.

 

[Rich22]

The one thing I have a problem with when it comes to Japanese makers is that the fit does not necessarily suit western body shapes. Buzz t-shirts tend to be shorter than standard with high arm holes, but not particularly fitted bodies, so you have to size up, which means the body can end up a bit bell-like.

Buying Japanese, or any T-shirts aimed at the Asian market, is tough for guys with a big chest to waist drop. I’m a Brit living in Asia, and I end up with a limited imported selection of stuff (or buying when I go home), as my tops (and bottoms) all have to be tapered or they look awful.

 

[jeo]

I have decided that I want to buy a vintage Sears Hercules (the GW Imperial style)

Same here. That is my ultimate dream/grail jacket. For me it’s more an issue of finding one in the right condition and in my size.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tmitchell59]

" I have decided that I want to buy a vintage Sears Hercules (the GW Imperial style) and a vintage Beck 666. The problem is that I have no idea how to source these jackets at a fair price."

An original iconic Sears Hercules jacket is going to be difficult to find anywhere. No matter where you find it is going to be expensive. The nicest one I've seen for sale was on eBay and sold while I was looking at it for $2,400.

I had contact with a fellow online through eBay. He is a long-time collector and I believe has a couple of those jackets. We exchanged a couple of emails and I have not heard from him. I was not asking about that jacket in particular. He is ill and may have not been able to get back to me

The Japanese auction has the most interesting hard to find vintage jackets that are for sale currently. Their prices are not unlike what you would find here. Again, they have them and we don't have them here.

I've owned several Buzz Rickson jackets. I find them to be true to size or a bit undersized. I had the same jacket in a 42 and a 44. Each wore a size bigger then been marked. I also had a Real McCoys sport jacket that was a fairly large 44. I just sold that one.

What are stunning to me are the wool / leather styled jackets by style eyes, Cushman, others. I've never seen another manufacturer do those jackets like that. To find and original is nearly impossible. Again, they are there but they're size 38-36.

I'm fortunate that a standard 42 or 44 fits me pretty well. I typically don't have sleeve length issues like so many people do. Still, I can't wear a 38.

 

[Superfluous]

Same here. That is my ultimate dream/grail jacket. For me it’s more an issue of finding one in the right condition and in my size.

I just made an inquiry with the broker from whom I purchased my Buco J100. He says the Hercules jackets are very difficult to find. He can find me a Beck 666.

Ps: If anyone is looking for a Buco J-22, he has one or more available, along with other vintage moto jackets.

 

[tmitchell59]

Same here. That is my ultimate dream/grail jacket. For me it’s more an issue of finding one in the right condition and in my size.

I've not own one of the original Hercules, but I've owned several replicas, Bill Kelso, Johnson leather, Aero, goodwear. Each of them was similar in that those jackets are long on me. I think it is that piece at the waist that just makes it kind of awkwardly long. At least on me. They are extremely cool jackets. I recently saw 2 black Hercules jackets that were made soon after that one. The closest I've seen without being the real one. Both were too small for me, both were more traditional half belt with the adjustments a little higher




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk