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The Vintage Tailoring Thread

cchgn

One of the Regulars
Messages
159
Location
Florida Panhandle
anyone know what this fabric is that is often used for vintage labels ?
it appears to be cotton but with a crispy, coated finish a bit like Holland linen:

1944armylabel_zps4773604a.jpg





UGWAlabel_zps892ce20b.jpg



i haven't been able to find the proper term for it (or find any for sale).

Serge is a form of twill that has a distinctive weave which creates a pattern of diagonal ridges in the fabric and it is known for being extremely sturdy and resilient. The origins of serge appear to be quite ancient. The word is derived from the Greek serikos, which means “silken,” suggesting that the fabric was probably brought to Europe from China. By the 8th century AD, people were certainly using serge, but the fabric was available primarily to the upper classes. Europeans also developed a version made from wool, with production being centered in France by the 1500s, typically using high-quality English wool. Wool serge is excellent for uniforms and suits, and it is possible to produce it in both light and heavy weights, for a variety of climates. Because it is a very flexible, resilient fabric, it tends to cope very well with crumpling and pressing, making it convenient for extended wear.
 

volvomeister13

One of the Regulars
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107
Location
United States
I wasn't sure if this was the right place for this question, but it has to do with tailoring.

I have a MTM S. Cohen suit I got four years ago. As far as modern suits go, I really like it and feel like it sort of fits in with my love of 1920's style. The fabric, like many modern fabrics, is too thin for my taste, but the quality, color, and pattern are great. I love the three-button, three-piece configuration with no vent.

However, the shoulders are padded (although much less so than many modern suits) and the pants have the horrible pleats and garbage bag-level drapability that plague all too many contemporary trousers. (When I had it made I was in college and still lived under the mistaken impression that adding pleats somehow made any pair of pants more old-fashioned- oh the irony!)

I'm hoping a capable tailor might be able to reduce the shoulder padding, remove the pleats, and slim down the pants. I realize these are complex operations and I was wondering if anyone in the lounge had any experience having these kinds of alterations done. What do you guys think?

Thanks!
 

Tomasso

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13,719
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USA
I'm hoping a capable tailor might be able to reduce the shoulder padding, remove the pleats, and slim down the pants. I realize these are complex operations and I was wondering if anyone in the lounge had any experience having these kinds of alterations done. What do you guys think?
The alterations you suggest will run a few hundred dollars. Are you sure the suit is worth that kind of investment?
 

volvomeister13

One of the Regulars
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107
Location
United States
It's possible. The suit was really expensive, so it might be worth it relative to the overall value, if it's even possible to do that without ruining the suit.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
Location
USA
Well, the trousers will be relatively easy, it's the shoulders that can be tricky. It's really a job for a bespoke caliber tailor rather than an alterations tailor or a seamstress. And then you'd want a guy who has made a lot of natural shoulders. If you've got that guy and the cash then give it a go.
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,220
Location
Germany
Not worth it for the jacket. Sorry. Why sugarcoat the answer even if it is not what you want to hear?
 
Last edited:

Barmey

One of the Regulars
Messages
140
Location
Hastings
Awww damn. Thanks for sharing anyway.

*edit* used a proxy site and now I can see it :)
 
Last edited:

Belloqinabush

New in Town
Messages
17
Location
The United States of America
I love thirties and forties menswear and was wondering about double breasted suits with patch pockets and if this was ever done. I am making a suit using an eva dress 40s blazer pattern but am curious about the patch pockets it features. I will be making a full suit for it and thought that although it might be acceptable for a blazer it may be odd on a double breasted suit.
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
I love thirties and forties menswear and was wondering about double breasted suits with patch pockets and if this was ever done. I am making a suit using an eva dress 40s blazer pattern but am curious about the patch pockets it features. I will be making a full suit for it and thought that although it might be acceptable for a blazer it may be odd on a double breasted suit.

I'm making a jacket with the same pattern right now.
 

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