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The Vintage Tailoring Thread

It certainly will. Rub points will go just ever so slightly shinier.

Nice job as ever. Wherefrom is the corduroy? I got a link from Rudie to his German stuff. Would be interested in the source of yours!

btw, I just raided my local charity shop and came away with about 200-300 30s/40s "basic" bowl-back plastic buttons of the type so common on vintage suit jackets, trousers &cetera, but which are almost impossible to source modern versions of. I've been meaning to do it for years. The dame thought I was mental, picking through all her buttons and only taking the "crap" ones. A few corozo ones in there too. So if you're on the hunt for sets for your projects or for replacements for missing ones on vintage items, I'll probably have what you need!
 
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herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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Baron, the cord is the Bookster stuff tracked down via their trouser maker after Bookster closed. i'm not sure what they currently have in stock but i'll email you their details.
i don't know who the actual cord maker is, but i think Old Town probably use the same one.

yes, jacket vintage button sets are very difficult to find. i don't actually have any at all apart from the few i've taken off jackets that have been ruined.
 
If you have local independent charity shops (and given the old folks home you live in, I assume you do ;) - pretty sure I've been to some of them) they will have old cake and biscuit tins jam packed with buttons. An hour or two of digging and you're quids in. Same goes for boxes of zippers and buckles.

Thanks for the cord recommendation. Will check 't email.
 

herringbonekid

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p.s. i considered using these buttons on the jacket but decided against it:

L1040780_zps6554234b.jpg


L1040781_zps2688d580.jpg
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
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Wonderful work, hbk.

I have cord high rise trousers from Old Town. They age very nicely. Some of my favorite trousers.
 

Two Types

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You should have used the stag buttons! They are great. I've seen some old white French buttons with sailing scenes on them (in an antique shop in Lewes). I was tempted to buy them with the thought of oneday having some sort of light coloured casual jacket made with the yacht buttons. Maybe I'll pick them up if I go back there.
 

herringbonekid

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Rudie, thanks.

TT, as this suit is inspired by the American catalogue image i thought i'd try to remain as faithful as possible - though some details are different - and the French buttons looked a bit like chocolate novelty buttons on the jacket.

if i ever find some of this French fabric though i'll use them:

French_cord_a_zps04fa8985.jpg
 

Metatron

One Too Many
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1,536
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United Kingdom
Wonderful work HBK, looks like you found just the right leather to use for the lining.
I had trouble envisioning it, but it looks right.

Half way through watching a Jean Renoir film in which he appears wearing this jacket:


Similar to the hunting one you posted a photo of.
 
Thanks. Does anyone have information on canvas modification for the drape models? I'm sure I've read something somewhere (and in one of my own references, dammit) but I can't find it right now.

I bought a mid 30s British (hacking) jacket with very prominent vertical ripples in the chest, which seem to be underpinned by serious slashing through the canvases. I would love to take the jacket apart, but frankly it's too good an example to messed around with like that.
 

herringbonekid

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East Sussex, England
Baron, have you unpicked the lining and seen the canvas slashes, or can you just feel them ?

you need to speak to Qirrel about canvas modification. i understand adding drape to the pattern, but i'm unsure about the canvas (whether the canvas needs extra 'V's and whatnot).
 
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Qirrel

Practically Family
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The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
I cen feel them through the fabric and through the liner. The seem like very deep 'V's from the shoulder to around the top button (3-button SB notch).

Not quite sure what you mean here. Are the vees located along the coat front?

TBH there is no need to get overly complicated with the canvas; mirroring it the the fabric (i.e. do the same manipulations and take out the same darts from the canvas as from the fabric) should give the required effect. Also, cut the haircloth/chest piece clear of the front of the scye. This will facilitate the formation of neat folds in front of the scye. Here are a few scans of different ways to treat the canvas in a draped coat:

Whife_canvas_bias_vs_straight_pg2.jpg


Moderate_drape1.jpg


Moderate_drape.jpg


4269011669_e190b1e81c_o.jpg
 

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