The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

[Guttersnipe]

I snagged this 30s two-piece today. It's the first belt back I've seen in "the wild" (i.e., in a shop and not online) in years. Boy was I glad when it fit me!

 

[Two Types]

Very nice. Out of interest, the colour appears different in each of the photos. Which is the most accurate, the blue or the grey?

Also, does it have a date on it?

 

[Fastuni]

Guttersnipe,

I think some detail photos of the trousers would be great!

 

[Guttersnipe]

Guttersnipe,

I think some detail photos of the trousers would be great!

Ask and ye shall receive. The trousers are pretty typical mid-30s American style with a very long rise, a straight cut leg, and a nice 2" wide cuff. The second picture below shows the color most accurately:

 

[Guttersnipe]

Mid-30s DB three-piece:



The maker's label and '36 union tag:





Trousers:

 

[Guttersnipe]

'30s two-piece with a black tone-on-tone herringbone weave:

 

[Guttersnipe]

This suit is actually dated March, 1942, but it's more in the style of the '30s so I thought I'd post it here.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Wow. You got a great collection. Finding a beltback in the wild that fits (!) must be a once in a lifetime chance. I mean how high are the chances nowadays with all the collectors who search exactly the same thing. Jackpot

 

[Guttersnipe]

Well, the belt back wasn't at a thrift store, so I didn't pay some absurdly low price like $5.95 or something. I bought it at a well known SF vintage shop, however, it cost less than I'd expect to pay on eBay and I was able to try it on and vet the condition in person - which are huge pluses to me that I'm willing to pay a premium for.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

In San Francisco or any other larger city you're probably right. Out in the Boonies, you'd be surprised how much is lurking around in smaller junk-type shops, even in Europe. (OK maybe not so many belted back suits/jackets in Europe). Sorry to keep harping on it, but especially in the midwest, and now particularly in the Northern midwest.

Wow. You got a great collection. Finding a beltback in the wild that fits (!) must be a once in a lifetime chance. I mean how high are the chances nowadays with all the collectors who search exactly the same thing. Jackpot

 

[Patrick Hall]

Guttersnipe, those suits are amazing. I particularly like the roll to the bottom button on the two double-breasteds. Makes me think of those Esquire illustrations that get reposted on various threads regularly. There is an insouciance about that look which appeals to me - though I think it is especially fetching on the longer of the two jackets. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Guttersnipe]

Thanks,PH. I sometimes think that the long line roll is sorely under appreciated in vintage circles; I'm glad you noticed! As you say, in Apparel Arts illustrations DBs are almost in veritably shown that way. Looking at period pictures seems to confirm that the LLR was pretty popular outside of the minds of fashion illustrators too. Unfortunately, those boxy late 80s/early 90s 6-on-1 DBs ruined the look for a lot of folks....

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

In San Francisco or any other larger city you're probably right. Out in the Boonies, you'd be surprised how much is lurking around in smaller junk-type shops, even in Europe. (OK maybe not so many belted back suits/jackets in Europe). Sorry to keep harping on it, but especially in the midwest, and now particularly in the Northern midwest.

Yes, I am just talking about my own expierience (and size) so I may be different somewhere else.

Well, the belt back wasn't at a thrift store, so I didn't pay some absurdly low price like $5.95 or something. I bought it at a well known SF vintage shop, however, it cost less than I'd expect to pay on eBay and I was able to try it on and vet the condition in person - which are huge pluses to me that I'm willing to pay a premium for.

Ok, that makes sense. Of course trying it on is a major plus. I always hate to wait two month for pieces from US ebay to arrive here and then find out they don't fit. Bummer.

I am also guilty of preffering the high buttoning DBs over the long roll. [huh] Do I have to feel like a vintage-scene-conformist now?

 

[Patrick Hall]

I am also guilty of preffering the high buttoning DBs over the long roll. Do I have to feel like a vintage-scene-conformist now?

Ha - You conform to the majority opinion of non-conformists who are reacting to the slouchy conformity of modern dress. Now my head is spinning.

 

[Two Types]

I am also guilty of preffering the high buttoning DBs over the long roll.

Is that because you carry your weight lower and a low buttoning jacket focussing the attention to a lower point, thus not suiting your body? (or something like that)

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The long roll looks awesome on taller guys. The look suited Louis Mountbatten very well, and Gary Cooper. Not so much on shorter or fatter chaps.

This looks great!

This, not so much. The problem of egregiously mis-pressed bridles is a serious and unsightly one. That's not a good look.

 

[herringbonekid]

The problem of egregiously mis-pressed bridles is a serious and unsightly one.

that also looks, to me, like a jacket that was made to be fastened at the middle button.

on the 'long line roll': i'm also not a fan of the low-buttoning DB. there might be something of a US / Euro divide on this look.
it seems to appeal to those who dabble in the bold, late 40s look and mostly they seem to be American.

 

[Patrick Hall]

i'm also not a fan of the low-buttoning DB. there might be something of a US / Euro divide on this look.
it seems to appeal to those who dabble in the bold, late 40s look and mostly they seem to be American.

Perhaps a long roll line is woven into the American zeitgeist. I just think there is something endearingly peculiar about it. I feel the same way about the 3-2 lapel roll on single breasted jackets. Though, I agree that whether it works or not on a double breasted coat would depend on the body type of the wearer, and perhaps also on the length of the jacket. Ironically, I would imagine a long roll line would look WORSE on a "bold look" suit that already has an extremely low button stance. Also - I just learned what a "bridle" is. Thanks FL! Love these tidbits.

 

[Fastuni]

On German late-30's to 50's illustrations one can occasionally find the long lapel roll, however by the mid-40's this "look" was preferably achieved with 4x1 buttoning jackets with the lower closing button set slightly above or at the pocket height.

 

[Two Types]

I looked through the kays catalogues. There are only a couple of example (in the years they have available) of a BD buttoning on the lower button. it's a 1953 sports jacket: http://www.worldofkays.org/website/...images/downloadable/KA53p116-downloadable.jpg

and suit jackets from 1959:
http://www.worldofkays.org/website/...images/downloadable/KA53p116-downloadable.jpg