The Hunt for the Least Restrictive Leather Jacket

[born113]

Double gusset does help but it is the least effective solution for added mobility & least attractive one, especially when so gargantuan in size. Most Schott Perfecto jackets have it. It's just some extra added material that bunches up while the arms are relaxed. Can be a bit annoying if done in stiffer leather.

I just wanted to ask about this...

The idea of double gussets really confuses me. Why don't manufacturers do this on all Thick Leather jackets then?

Then another question. What is the most effective method for thick leather?

 

[Monitor]

I just wanted to ask about this...

The idea of double gussets really confuses me. Why don't manufacturers do this on all Thick Leather jackets then?

It's unsightly. Bulbous. Cannot be installed on any jacket that is intended to be worn slim. Etc.

Then another question. What is the most effective method for thick leather?

Good pattern.

 

[jglf]

Great feedback and pics guys, thanks. One of the things I've noticed with the Aero HB is that the low armholes feel like they would always be restrictive, regardless of whether or not the jacket is broken in.

The Vanson Enfield definitely seems like the one to beat.

Though it's a completely different style and not the most eye-catching hide, I was also toying with the idea of a U.S. Authentic G8 in brown goat. I like the idea of it having double gussets under each arm for better movement, something I had never even heard of before coming across this jacket.



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Those armpit gussets look terrible. Vanson does a lot better job with hiding theirs when your arms are relaxed.

 

[Nalazo]

Interesting. Any thoughts on the Walter Dyer jacket pictures I initially posted? I know they're not as well known. Seems to bear a slight similarity to the Enfield or possibly a Highwayman. Here're some pics of another jacket in that same style that another member posted several years ago. Thanks to whoever initially posted these...

Here're some examples of the brown leather I was considering that Bruce still offers. He said it's between 3-3 1/2 oz. Not the lightest but surely not the heaviest. Doesn't look stiff.

 

[ton312]

Interesting. Any thoughts on the Walter Dyer jacket pictures I initially posted? I know they're not as well known. Seems to bear a slight similarity to the Enfield or possibly a Highwayman. Here're some pics of another jacket in that same style that another member posted several years ago. Thanks to whoever initially posted these...

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Here're some examples of the brown leather I was considering that Bruce still offers. He said it's between 3-3 1/2 oz. Not the lightest but surely not the heaviest. Doesn't look stiff.

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That’s Terry in the first set of pics. That WD is wonderful but also vintage and somewhat uncommon. A good alternative is in fact Vansons Oxford or Enfield, depending on your collar preference. It’s a great pattern. Trim, loads of mobility (as you’d expect) and not outrageously priced.
Thurston’s more expensive syrup hide:

Vansons house comp weight:

Both great jackets. I enjoyed them prior to becoming Mr. Old Fashioned.
The current WD. I’d pass on that.

 

[Nalazo]

That’s Terry in the first set of pics. That WD is wonderful but also vintage and somewhat uncommon. A good alternative is in fact Vansons Oxford or Enfield, depending on your collar preference. It’s a great pattern. Trim, loads of mobility (as you’d expect) and not outrageously priced.

Well thanks for the pics Terry! And those jackets look great. I’m leaning towards the Enfield because of the ability to layer, plus I like the one piece back. I do, however, like the classy collar of the Oxford. Wonder if they’d stick that on the Enfield for me?

If you’ve had both styles, did you order your regular size in the Oxford and size down in the Enfield?

 

[ton312]

Well thanks for the pics Terry! And those jackets look great. I’m leaning towards the Enfield because of the ability to layer, plus I like the one piece back. I do, however, like the classy collar of the Oxford. Wonder if they’d stick that on the Enfield for me?

If you’ve had both styles, did you order your regular size in the Oxford and size down in the Enfield?

I’ve had both jackets in the same size and found they fit about the same. Enfield maybe just the slightest bit roomier. Almost indistinguishable though.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I think the hide choice is probably the biggest factor for mobility in a jacket. Design can vary by body type, like for thinner folks having a form fitting jacket can actually be less restrictive than bigger body types.

Riding jackets tend to have thicker hides to gain slide protection in a fall, so motorcycle leather is always a compromise of protection vs mobility. Fashion jackets in lambskin for instance are very easy to wear because they have soft, usually thin leather making them very easy to wear. On the flip side, a 6oz chrome tanned horsehide will be a chore to wear no matter who makes the jacket.

 

[Schambach]

The Enfield is definitely a little roomier, according to Kim it's like a half size up, so my 44 Enfield is really more like a 45. I feel like a lot of the size difference between that and the Oxford is the quilted lining on the Oxford making it fit a little tighter. I tried both at their warehouse, and in the end chose the Enfield because it's just more versatile. And it has been, it gets worn more than any of my other jackets. It's thick, comp weight hide, but easy to wear and not restrictive at all.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Interesting. Any thoughts on the Walter Dyer jacket pictures I initially posted? I know they're not as well known. Seems to bear a slight similarity to the Enfield or possibly a Highwayman. Here're some pics of another jacket in that same style that another member posted several years ago. Thanks to whoever initially posted these...

View attachment 404128

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Here're some examples of the brown leather I was considering that Bruce still offers. He said it's between 3-3 1/2 oz. Not the lightest but surely not the heaviest. Doesn't look stiff.

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Walter Dyer Scooter jacket size 44. Comes with a quilted jacket inside, not a liner, another quilted puffy jacket inside. And all pockets are leather lined. Here is the measurements:

Vanson Highwayman 44, one leather lined pocket, no quilt. Although quilt lined version is available, just wasn't available when I bought it. Measurements:

Customer Service - Bruce wrote the book on that, he could teach it. Nothing personal against Nick at Vanson, but he could learn a thing or two from Bruce. So can most people who work in customer service. Memebers in this forum goes through Thurston Bro and I haven't seen one complains. So that might be the better way to get your Vanson. I went direct trying to save a few bucks. But not really with all the extra in return shipping.

I don't think Bruce has that jacket you originally posted in stock, does he?

There is a recent Vanson custom jacket thread here. Very nice stuff. He went though Thurston I believe to get those results.

 

[Nalazo]

Walter Dyer Scooter jacket size 44. Comes with a quilted jacket inside, not a liner, another quilted puffy jacket inside. And all pockets are leather lined. Here is the measurements:

Vanson Highwayman 44, one leather lined pocket, no quilt. Although quilt lined version is available, just wasn't available when I bought it. Measurements:


Customer Service - Bruce wrote the book on that, he could teach it. Nothing personal against Nick at Vanson, but he could learn a thing or two from Bruce. So can most people who work in customer service. Memebers in this forum goes through Thurston Bro and I haven't seen one complains. So that might be the better way to get your Vanson. I went direct trying to save a few bucks. But not really with all the extra in return shipping.

I don't think Bruce has that jacket you originally posted in stock, does he?

There is a recent Vanson custom jacket thread here. Very nice stuff. He went though Thurston I believe to get those results.

Thanks for the pics, measurements, and info!

When you say you ended up spending extra money on return shipping, was that because Vanson didn't get the fit right on the first go?

So Bruce doesn't currently have that jacket in stock but offered to make it in that brown distressed leather. Not sure if there're any other leather options available...

 

[red devil]

@Nalazo

When did you buy your suburban? Is it in HH?

If you find that jacket restrictive, you would be better off with a leather that is softer, I woudl recommend you look at deer skin.

I have used my suburban in many circumstances, riding a motorbike, travelling, driving, riding a horse, etc... it never let me down. It has very good mobility already.

I will second that Langlitz likely has the best mobility in my experience so far, a goat langlitz might be what you are looking for.

Is it specifically when you are driving that you feel restricted?

 

[morrison2951]

My lightest and least restrictive jacket is a goatskin Indy jacket from Wested. I wear it a lot when I'm travelling. I don't wear it when riding a motorcycle though because I prefer heavier tight leather when I ride.

I think Indy jacket pattern is one of the least restrictive pattern out there.

Here's my Wested Indy. Nice jacket.

 

[Nalazo]

@Nalazo

When did you buy your suburban? Is it in HH?

If you find that jacket restrictive, you would be better off with a leather that is softer, I woudl recommend you look at deer skin.

I have used my suburban in many circumstances, riding a motorbike, travelling, driving, riding a horse, etc... it never let me down. It has very good mobility already.

I will second that Langlitz likely has the best mobility in my experience so far, a goat langlitz might be what you are looking for.

Is it specifically when you are driving that you feel restricted?

Truth be told, I don’t want to tarnish the Suburban’s reputation. It is indeed FQHH but it never fit right. It is slightly small for me ( though tagged in my size 42) and purchased second hand off EBay awhile back.

The Aero, however, was a custom order purchased directly from them. The fit is spot on, but the position of the armholes combined with the heavy hide is too restrictive for me. The hide will break in but those armholes will not. Great looking jacket but not mover friendly in my eyes.

Yea, it’s driving or really anything that involves much arm movement haha.

 

[red devil]

The older LW jackets had a much stiffer hide than the newer ones, it took me two years of constant use to get my Suburban to relent a bit lol

Suburban is a jacket you want to in a fitted to relaxed fit, at least from my experience. So if it felt tight, with that heavier HH, then it will feel restrictive, especially when you are in the seated driving position.

Tag sizes don't mean much , I go from 40 to 46 for a good fit for example.

I found for driving, that a soft hide with a lot of drape works best, so my previous recommendation for deer holds

When it comes to patterns, I think Langlitz gives the most range of motion, so anything in their goat should be very comfortable. My Langlitz is in goat:

Otherwise, the Thedi paterns are extremely well thought out, and this jacket specifically gives me the best range of motion

Edit: Typos & mistakes

 

[Colin G]

If you want to move and be happy get something with gussets. If you want to pose for pictures to post on a web forum then get whatever you want.

 

[Nalazo]

Does anyone have any experience with the Schott 673? It has a bi-swing back. It's reminiscent of the Vanson Oxford. I always thought their brown waxy cowhide looked good. Is Vanson generally better than Schott in the 'range of motion' category or does it simply depend on the specific jacket style?

 

[morrison2951]

My vote rests with Vanson.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks for the pics, measurements, and info!

When you say you ended up spending extra money on return shipping, was that because Vanson didn't get the fit right on the first go?

So Bruce doesn't currently have that jacket in stock but offered to make it in that brown distressed leather. Not sure if there're any other leather options available...

There were a few issues with my direct Vanson purchases. I would take responsibility for some, but most could've been avoided if their customer service were well trained on product and US/Canada shipping knowledge. I've found that calling them gets the best result.
My experience with Bruce was totally different. In order to get my sizing he went and have a guy in similar build try it on. I bought it knowing it was one size too big for me, or relax fit. It was the smallest size Bruce had in stock. He mentioned that if he wasn't retired he make me a custom one.
So is he coming out of retirement? Good for him. We all need something to keep us busy. If you do get a custom from Bruce please post it in the Walter Dyer thread. He makes some serious jackets.

 

[CBI]

Honestly.....................for comfort and not being restrictive, choose a cloth or fleece jacket. Leather is rarely as unrestrictive. IMHO