The Hollywood Waist-

[Tomasso]

There's also Dario Rodriguez ...........

.....A well respected trouser maker in NYC (Staten Island ) who will copy just about any trouser style for $85, customer supplies the material. Just send him the material and the trousers you wish to have copied. For those in NYC, he'll meet you at Tip-Top Fabrics in Brooklyn where you can choose fabric and be fitted. Though some say he is a much better copyist than fitter.

 

[catspyjamas]

Hello Gentlemen !

I just purchased a pair of lovely Oxford bags for my DH. Has anyone else got a pair ? How hard would it be to find a shirt to go with them and what about shoes ??
I'd love some advice...:eusa_clap

By the way, if I end up making a pattern from these pants I will be sure to post it here for everyone to enjoy...

Thanks

Cats

 

[scotrace]

Oh no... the Oxford Bags argument will flare up again...

 

[catspyjamas]

Oh no... the Oxford Bags argument will flare up again...

That sounds interesting...where is the link to that discussion ?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Oh it's around somewhere I was the main arguer. My contention was (and is) that the picture below does not represent Oxford Bags. What is pictured here - a gent in Paris in the late 1920s/early 1930s - is charicature, pastiche, vulgar, absurdity in trouser form, whatever you want to call it. It is the final death-throes of a style which had outlived its welcome. Oxford Bags in their original incarnation had cuffs no larger than 24" in circumference. (Their real importance was in adding material to the thighs, and innovation that wasn't overthrown until the late 50s)

Where did those bags you posted come from, by the way? Could it be that someone is making accurate bags? These look pretty close - what is the width at the cuff?

bk

 

[Feraud]

.....A well respected trouser maker in NYC (Staten Island ) who will copy just about any trouser style for $85, customer supplies the material. Just send him the material and the trousers you wish to have copied. For those in NYC, he'll meet you at Tip-Top Fabrics in Brooklyn where you can choose fabric and be fitted. Though some say he is a much better copyist than fitter.

Thanks Tomasso. I will have to keep him in mind for a project or two..

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That sounds interesting...where is the link to that discussion ?

It kicked off about here.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=8796&page=5&highlight=bags

bk

 

[Tomasso]

Oxford Bags in their original incarnation had cuffs no larger than 24" in circumference.

Probably like these worn by Cary Grant.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

yeah, like that. but to be bags they would be incredibly voluminous in the thighs. I've only seen one pair of originals. They had very wide thighs, and even tapered to the cuffs.

I put this quote into that other thread, there ^^^

From: Esquires Encyclopaedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions

"Having succeeded in giving knickers a baggier look, Ivy League students were ready to adopt something even baggier, the Oxford bags worn by Cambridge and Oxford students, who used them to camouflage their knickers, which had been banned for classroom wear. In 1925 these voluminous trousers, which measured about 25 inches around the knees and 22 inches around the bottoms, had been brought home by vacationing American students and were attracting widespread publicity. Advance notice had been given Americans in Men's Wear the previous year, when writers covering such fashionable events as the Henley regatta cabled word of "the very loose flannel trousers worn". Visiting American journalists reported in 1925 that the bags were so popular with upper class British students that most of them had three pairs, one of silver, one of biscuit, and one of either lavender or powder blue.

In the spring of 1925 John Wanamaker introduced the Oxford bags in New York in a full-page newspaper advertisement that read:

First in America
Redleaf-London OXFORD BAGS
The trousers that have created such a furore in England. Originated by the students at Oxford, they are worn in many places by young men of fashion.
20 to 25 inches wide at foot
Almost as wide at the knee. fashioned after the english style with high cut waistline, and pleats in front. May be worn with braces, but equipped with belt loops and side straps and buckles as a concession to the American habit.
In plain colour flannels: Biscuit ... Silver ... Grey ... Fawn ... Lovat ... Blue Grey ... Pearl Grey. $20 a pair


So those chaps pictured above (not WEEGEE) are wearing what i would consider - to quote H. P. Lovecraft - the ghoulish shade of decay, antiquity and desolation; the putrid, dripping oedolon of unwholesome revelation; the awful baring of that which the merciful earth should always hide. God knows it was not of this world - or no longer of this world ...

bk

 

[DanielJones]

Hello Gentlemen !

I just purchased a pair of lovely Oxford bags for my DH. Has anyone else got a pair ? How hard would it be to find a shirt to go with them and what about shoes ??
I'd love some advice...:eusa_clap

By the way, if I end up making a pattern from these pants I will be sure to post it here for everyone to enjoy...

Thanks

Cats

Hey Cats!

Where did you find those Oxford Bags?

Cheers!

Dan

 

[catspyjamas]

Hey Cats!

Where did you find those Oxford Bags?

Cheers!

Dan

I picked them up from Vintagemartini.com - this is the first time purchasing from them so I won't be able to say how they are until I receive the trousers. The gentleman who runs vintagemartini seems like a nice fellow.

Baron - I agree with you that there is a maximum circumference for the trouser bottoms. Extra wide must have been a spin-off fad although the Bags fashion itself only really lasted 10-odd years I think.

The trousers I bought are probably not original Oxford Bags though. They could be the american version from the 30s :

I'm just hoping they will fit my DH...he just realised that he put on a couple of kilos so - yikes. If they are too small it will be such a drag.

By the way, any news on the FLer who was having high waist trousers tailored in Vietnam to commercialise in the US ?

 

[zeus36]

Just checking in for any news on the Hollywood waist....

I found at least one pair of modern pants that suit me: Haggar Imperial fine wool dress slacks. I'm getting another pair off @bay.

Anyone get a pair of Magnolis' pants yet?

 

[Jovan]

Oh dear. I can see why Oxford baggies died out.

 

[twobarbreak]

Oh dear. I can see why Oxford baggies died out.

hahahaha!

although I love it all...the Bags can be pretty humorous looking if not put together perfect...

 

[Mid-fogey]

When I was...

...a cadet we had really high waisted pants with the belt loops several inches below the tops. I always figured they were for wearing with the tail coats that were high in the front.

Maybe they come about from another dressing tradition.

 

[skyvue]

Where have you gone, Shanghai Jack? The Fedora Lounge turns its lonely eyes to you!

 

[DeaconKC]

I just wish I could still find my waist........

 

[scotrace]

It's been a year

Bump for Great Justice.

 

[flat-top]

http://www.tarantulaclothingcompany.com/products/pants/mens_trousers.html
I just saw the black and white speckled pair in person. I really liked 'em, but the price is a little crazy.

 

[djgo-cat-go]

http://www.tarantulaclothingcompany.com/products/pants/mens_trousers.html
I just saw the black and white speckled pair in person. I really liked 'em, but the price is a little crazy.

I have a pair in light blueish grey.. They're really well made, and to me, a more bold design than the Magnoli trousers of which I have two pairs.. Don't get me wrong, I really like the Magnoli Hollywood pants, but to be honest, I like the Tarantula's more.. They have a slightly more higher rise and the belt loops are dropped a quarter inch lower.. (I only wish I had them cuffed by a tailor instead of just fold 'n stitch the pipes myself... ) I'm certain that when I order another Magnoli pants with specified modifications I get it just the way I want it.. Indy is terrific..