" The Great British Hat Makers "

[BobHufford]

Some local pick ups, a lady was selling her father's in law hats.

Great finds Panos -- beautiful hats! Always good to find a local source as shipping has gotten so expensive. You should share the store pics over on this thread ...

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-us-your-vintage-hat-store.95776/

 

[Steve1857]

Two very nice finds, Panos. Love those old photos, too.

Second a Curzon (I think it used to be a British brand back in the days?), primus inter pares (First among equal), grey Homburg. Stamped 22DEC1962 View attachment 307719 View attachment 307720 View attachment 307721 View attachment 307722 View attachment 307723 View attachment 307724 View attachment 307725
The same label can be found in now Steve's Monark, though they were sold by different stores (same Norwegian distributor?). This one was sold by the Kristiania Hattemagasin, opened in 1901.
View attachment 307728 Here are some pics from the 50 year anniversary in 1951 View attachment 307726 View attachment 307727

 

[steur]

Second a Curzon (I think it used to be a British brand back in the days?), primus inter pares (First among equal), grey Homburg. Stamped 22DEC1962 View attachment 307719 View attachment 307720 View attachment 307721 View attachment 307722 View attachment 307723 View attachment 307724 View attachment 307725
The same label can be found in now Steve's Monark, though they were sold by different stores (same Norwegian distributor?). This one was sold by the Kristiania Hattemagasin, opened in 1901.
View attachment 307728 Here are some pics from the 50 year anniversary in 1951 View attachment 307726 View attachment 307727

Wow, two fabulous finds, Panos. Well worth picking these up. Excellent colours, shapes and conditions! I notced the blue one seems to have the brim curve running along the back of the hat as well.

 

[PanosChris]

Wow, two fabulous finds, Panos. Well worth picking these up. Excellent colours, shapes and conditions! I notced the blue one seems to have the brim curve running along the back of the hat as well.

Thanks Stefan, indeed the Glyn has a tighter curve that goes along the periphery, good eye

Great finds Panos -- beautiful hats! Always good to find a local source as shipping has gotten so expensive. You should share the store pics over on this thread ...

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-us-your-vintage-hat-store.95776/

Thanks Bob, I'll do, along with some more

Two very nice finds, Panos. Love those old photos, too.

Thank you Steve, I love your castor Mossant btw !

 

[Steve1857]

Scott & Co Beaver blend fedora. Part of the recent Dutch haul. Hard to capture the wonderful dark blue colour on this one, so I've added some of Stefan's photos.

Scott & Co called it St. James Blue (thankfully not St. James infirmary blue

 

[steur]

Scott & Co Beaver blend fedora. Part of the recent Dutch haul. Hard to capture the wonderful dark blue colour on this one, so I've added some of Stefan's photos.

Scott & Co called it St. James Blue (thankfully not St. James infirmary blue

View attachment 308477 View attachment 308478 View attachment 308479 View attachment 308480

Such a beautiful hat and in a wonderful felt as well. Glad it found a good home.

 

[steur]

Woodrow Amylyte Burlington bowler in grey. The size is 58, but it runs smaller than that. Colour is called radium. Brim at just shy of 5cm and crown 12cm. Another very lightweight bowler hat at just 98 grams. Grey bowlers are difficult to come by, so a pity it's not my size. It's post-war because it mentions the queen. Pre-war would mention the king.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Waited a long time for it - then finally arrived and still not posted for a long time:
The black Henry Heath Homburg, which apparently wants to be or should be a tuxedo hat.
Or maybe a Melone/Derby/Bowler, because that is the stiffest felt on a soft felt hat
I have ever seen! Even with steam, small bends were hard to tame!
And at the same time, it's one of the smoothest and most supple felts I've had in my hands.
Truly a high quality, premium hat as you would expect from this manufacturer.
Must be before 1952: "By Special Appointment To His Majesty The King" - think of the 40s
crown with 11 cm at the centre dent; 5,5 cm brim at the front & back; 5 cm crown ribbon
size 7 1/4 (59cm) marked on the label - fits perfectly!

What makes it even more remarkable and, apart from the felt,
makes it stand out from the big bunch of black homburgs:
It has no sweat leather inside, but a reeded silk ribbon (5 cm)
sewn in and stitched to the silk lining. What's more, this rep band
doesn't feature Henry Heath's logo once again, but a stunning
gold imprint of "Tress - Quality Hats - London" (Tress & Co).
Actually, these were hat manufacturers themselves and thus
a competitor of Heath, or were the latter once bought out by Tress?
Otherwise it would be possible that Tress ordered this hat from Heath
and then sold it themselves OR the grosgrain ribbon is an exchange?!
In any case, this ribbon is exceptional and clearly gives this Homburg
the touch of a tuxedo hat, which I have mentioned above.

 

[Steve1857]

An excellent find, Matt. I'd say pre 40s. Didn't HH go out of business toward the end of the 1930s?

Waited a long time for it - then finally arrived and still not posted for a long time:
The black Henry Heath Homburg, which apparently wants to be or should be a tuxedo hat.
Or maybe a Melone/Derby/Bowler, because that is the stiffest felt on a soft felt hat
I have ever seen! Even with steam, small bends were hard to tame!
And at the same time, it's one of the smoothest and most supple felts I've had in my hands.
Truly a high quality, premium hat as you would expect from this manufacturer.
Must be before 1952: "By Special Appointment To His Majesty The King" - think of the 40s
crown with 11 cm at the centre dent; 5,5 cm brim at the front & back; 5 cm crown ribbon
size 7 1/4 (59cm) marked on the label - fits perfectly!

What makes it even more remarkable and, apart from the felt,
makes it stand out from the big bunch of black homburgs:
It has no sweat leather inside, but a reeded silk ribbon (5 cm)
sewn in and stitched to the silk lining. What's more, this rep band
doesn't feature Henry Heath's logo once again, but a stunning
gold imprint of "Tress - Quality Hats - London" (Tress & Co).
Actually, these were hat manufacturers themselves and thus
a competitor of Heath, or were the latter once bought out by Tress?
Otherwise it would be possible that Tress ordered this hat from Heath
and then sold it themselves OR the grosgrain ribbon is an exchange?!
In any case, this ribbon is exceptional and clearly gives this Homburg
the touch of a tuxedo hat, which I have mentioned above.

 

[PanosChris]

Waited a long time for it - then finally arrived and still not posted for a long time:
The black Henry Heath Homburg, which apparently wants to be or should be a tuxedo hat.
Or maybe a Melone/Derby/Bowler, because that is the stiffest felt on a soft felt hat
I have ever seen! Even with steam, small bends were hard to tame!
And at the same time, it's one of the smoothest and most supple felts I've had in my hands.
Truly a high quality, premium hat as you would expect from this manufacturer.
Must be before 1952: "By Special Appointment To His Majesty The King" - think of the 40s
crown with 11 cm at the centre dent; 5,5 cm brim at the front & back; 5 cm crown ribbon
size 7 1/4 (59cm) marked on the label - fits perfectly!

What makes it even more remarkable and, apart from the felt,
makes it stand out from the big bunch of black homburgs:
It has no sweat leather inside, but a reeded silk ribbon (5 cm)
sewn in and stitched to the silk lining. What's more, this rep band
doesn't feature Henry Heath's logo once again, but a stunning
gold imprint of "Tress - Quality Hats - London" (Tress & Co).
Actually, these were hat manufacturers themselves and thus
a competitor of Heath, or were the latter once bought out by Tress?
Otherwise it would be possible that Tress ordered this hat from Heath
and then sold it themselves OR the grosgrain ribbon is an exchange?!
In any case, this ribbon is exceptional and clearly gives this Homburg
the touch of a tuxedo hat, which I have mentioned above.

Fantastic get Matt! It has a very attractive pre-war style for sure.

 

[mayserwegener]

Waited a long time for it - then finally arrived and still not posted for a long time:
The black Henry Heath Homburg, which apparently wants to be or should be a tuxedo hat.
Or maybe a Melone/Derby/Bowler, because that is the stiffest felt on a soft felt hat
I have ever seen! Even with steam, small bends were hard to tame!
And at the same time, it's one of the smoothest and most supple felts I've had in my hands.
Truly a high quality, premium hat as you would expect from this manufacturer.
Must be before 1952: "By Special Appointment To His Majesty The King" - think of the 40s
crown with 11 cm at the centre dent; 5,5 cm brim at the front & back; 5 cm crown ribbon
size 7 1/4 (59cm) marked on the label - fits perfectly!

What makes it even more remarkable and, apart from the felt,
makes it stand out from the big bunch of black homburgs:
It has no sweat leather inside, but a reeded silk ribbon (5 cm)
sewn in and stitched to the silk lining. What's more, this rep band
doesn't feature Henry Heath's logo once again, but a stunning
gold imprint of "Tress - Quality Hats - London" (Tress & Co).
Actually, these were hat manufacturers themselves and thus
a competitor of Heath, or were the latter once bought out by Tress?
Otherwise it would be possible that Tress ordered this hat from Heath
and then sold it themselves OR the grosgrain ribbon is an exchange?!
In any case, this ribbon is exceptional and clearly gives this Homburg
the touch of a tuxedo hat, which I have mentioned above.

Matt, Super + unique find! Congrats!

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

An excellent find, Matt. I'd say pre 40s. Didn't HH go out of business toward the end of the 1930s?

Thanks, Steve, Chris and Steve.
I'm afraid I have so little idea about British hats and even less about Henry Heath.
Do you have more information about it - I am grateful for any expansion of my knowledge.
Here in the Threat I have (yet) found nothing...
What are you thinking about this "sweat" with the Tress-logo?

 

[Steve1857]

Thanks, Steve, Chris and Steve.
I'm afraid I have so little idea about British hats and even less about Henry Heath.
Do you have more information about it - I am grateful for any expansion of my knowledge.
Here in the Threat I have (yet) found nothing...
What are you thinking about this "sweat" with the Tress-logo?

 

[Steve1857]

I think the Tress sweat is an addition at some point in the HH's life . I can't see it being original to the hat pre war.

Thanks, Steve, Chris and Steve.
I'm afraid I have so little idea about British hats and even less about Henry Heath.
Do you have more information about it - I am grateful for any expansion of my knowledge.
Here in the Threat I have (yet) found nothing...
What are you thinking about this "sweat" with the Tress-logo?

 

[Steve1857]

The pleats around the liner and the liner logo, plus the wonderful art deco type skript on the label all point toward a pre war time frame.

Thanks, Steve, Chris and Steve.
I'm afraid I have so little idea about British hats and even less about Henry Heath.
Do you have more information about it - I am grateful for any expansion of my knowledge.
Here in the Threat I have (yet) found nothing...
What are you thinking about this "sweat" with the Tress-logo?

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Thanks again, Steve! And please don't get me wrong:
I wouldn't be really mad at all if the hat would be prewar!

This liner logo from Heath is not the most common, but I've seen it several times
- mostly on pre-war top hats, some even from the 20s. In contrast, I don't know
this Tress logo at all: actually, they also had a similar crest with reference to royalty....
But I also just saw a top hat made by J.S.Smith in Edinburgh, but has an imprint
of Tress on the sweat - apparently they really bought other brands too.

 

[Steve1857]

Matt, in my humble opinion, it's all about the time frame of Henry Heath Ltd, Homburgs of the period, and the King Georges. I'd put your HH Homburg at about 1936 and after, that is to say King George VI, but pre war.
I'd place the Tress cross grain sweat as a new edition in the ca. 1950s. Not that that means it's a tuxedo hat.
A tux evening wear hat of the 1950s would have had a cross grain ribbon rather than a sweat on the inside.

Thanks again, Steve! And please don't get me wrong:
I wouldn't be really mad at all if the hat would be prewar!

This liner logo from Heath is not the most common, but I've seen it several times
- mostly on pre-war top hats, some even from the 20s. In contrast, I don't know
this Tress logo at all: actually, they also had a similar crest with reference to royalty....
But I also just saw a top hat made by J.S.Smith in Edinburgh, but has an imprint
of Tress on the sweat - apparently they really bought other brands too.

 

[Rmccamey]

The Curzon is a real beauty, Panos.

Second a Curzon (I think it used to be a British brand back in the days?), primus inter pares (First among equal), grey Homburg. Stamped 22DEC1962 View attachment 307719 View attachment 307720 View attachment 307721 View attachment 307722 View attachment 307723 View attachment 307724 View attachment 307725
The same label can be found in now Steve's Monark, though they were sold by different stores (same Norwegian distributor?). This one was sold by the Kristiania Hattemagasin, opened in 1901.
View attachment 307728 Here are some pics from the 50 year anniversary in 1951 View attachment 307726 View attachment 307727

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Matt, in my humble opinion, it's all about the time frame of Henry Heath Ltd, Homburgs of the period, and the King Georges. I'd put your HH Homburg at about 1936 and after, that is to say King George VI, but pre war.
I'd place the Tress cross grain sweat as a new edition in the ca. 1950s. Not that that means it's a tuxedo hat.
A tux evening wear hat of the 1950s would have had a cross grain ribbon rather than a sweat on the inside.

Again, a big thanks to you, Steve, for your assessment,
which is more sound than my gut feeling due to your vast experience.
I also thought of this George - just a little later...
But as I said: I love this fantastic new to me hat and
I'm happy about the look and that it is even prewar!

Just as an addendum in case I misspoke or just misunderstood it myself:
I only put "sweat" in quotes to indicate this band as "at this position".
It is not a real leather sweat but actually a grosgrain ribbon,
which is made of silk with the dimensions of a crown ribbon.

 

[steur]

Waited a long time for it - then finally arrived and still not posted for a long time:
The black Henry Heath Homburg, which apparently wants to be or should be a tuxedo hat.
Or maybe a Melone/Derby/Bowler, because that is the stiffest felt on a soft felt hat
I have ever seen! Even with steam, small bends were hard to tame!
And at the same time, it's one of the smoothest and most supple felts I've had in my hands.
Truly a high quality, premium hat as you would expect from this manufacturer.
Must be before 1952: "By Special Appointment To His Majesty The King" - think of the 40s
crown with 11 cm at the centre dent; 5,5 cm brim at the front & back; 5 cm crown ribbon
size 7 1/4 (59cm) marked on the label - fits perfectly!

What makes it even more remarkable and, apart from the felt,
makes it stand out from the big bunch of black homburgs:
It has no sweat leather inside, but a reeded silk ribbon (5 cm)
sewn in and stitched to the silk lining. What's more, this rep band
doesn't feature Henry Heath's logo once again, but a stunning
gold imprint of "Tress - Quality Hats - London" (Tress & Co).
Actually, these were hat manufacturers themselves and thus
a competitor of Heath, or were the latter once bought out by Tress?
Otherwise it would be possible that Tress ordered this hat from Heath
and then sold it themselves OR the grosgrain ribbon is an exchange?!
In any case, this ribbon is exceptional and clearly gives this Homburg
the touch of a tuxedo hat, which I have mentioned above.

Very nice, Matt. It has a great shape and I love the liner. The sweatband in grosgrain ribbon is odd, but not unheard of, but it is strange it carries the Tress name. Henry Heath was actually around longer than Tress. Tress was located on 3-7 Stamford Street, London (now the location of the Mad hatter Hotel) and sold to Christy's in 1953, while Henry Heath was located in Oxford Street, like it says on the liner, but they left that location in the early fifties, relocating to Brewer Street, London as a wholeseller. They finally closed in 1958. I believe the beavers that referred to the hat making process can still be seen on the Oxford Street building. Tress didn't buy out Henry Heath, but it is possible that Tress made the hat for Henry Heath, when the latter changes from a manufacturer to a wholeseller.