The Bowler or Derby Hat

[newturnofphrase]

 

[delectans]

A glorious tree for the Holidays, Robert, but what will be under the tree?

 

[newturnofphrase]

A glorious tree for the Holidays, Robert, but what will be under the tree?

Perhaps a bunch of empty boxes?

 

[Lefty]

From what I can tell, there's a glen of derby trees, a couple of homburg trees, a boater/panama/straw forest, and a vast wilderness of fur fedora firs.

Great stuff, rlk.

 

[EggHead]

I like your conifur!

 

[rlk]

I like your conifur!

You mean coneyfur I think

 

[bowlerman]

awesome...

 

[coble]

now that is a really neat idea. I like it RLK. That would make a great christmas card cover.

 

[alanfgag]

I was thinking... ventilated derbies with lights inside might be nice.

 

[delectans]

Burkhardt Bros. Co. HartLee Derby

A well worn derby from Burkhardt Bros. Co. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Un-tapered sides with a gently rounded crown. Very substantial and stiff felt, with a thick leather sweatband taped at the rear. Possibly refurbished at one time based upon the liner having re-applied monogram letters and the sweatband having what appears to be old stitching reinforced by adhesive. Ostensibly size 7-1/2, it is unfortunately slightly too narrow for me to wear properly or comfortably.


Crown: 5-1/2".
Ribbon: 1-1/4".
Brim: 2-1/8".
Sweatband: 2".

 

[delectans]

Crofut & Knapp Derby, Special Quality

Crofut & Knapp Derby, ca. 1910s-1920s. Felt is of Summer weight and somewhat flexible, with a high, 5-1/2"+, rounded crown accentuated by a narrower ribbon. Quality trimmings all around, with a soft and supple sweatband, making for a very comfortable fit.


Crown: 5-1/2" as indicated by the tag, but closer to 6" as I measure.
Ribbon: 15/16".
Brim: 1-15/16" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 2".



































Additional discussion on this derby in the Crofut & Knapp Tales.

 

[delectans]

Mallory Aristocrat Derby

An Aristocrat Quality Derby. United Hatters stamp, rolled sweatband with taped rear seam and earlier, black cloth size tag. Moderately full proportions with a tall, very slightly tapered and rounded crown. Though tagged as 7-3/8, it is dimensionally identical to my size 7-1/2 derbys.


Crown: 5-1/2".
RIbbon: 1-1/2".
Brim: 2-1/8" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 2".

 

[delectans]

Stetson Select Quality Derby

A Summer weight, ventilated Select Quality Derby. Rolled sweatband with taped rear seam. Crown is of modest height and is straight and un-tapered, with a flat top, creating a very pronounced, rectangular profile.


Crown: 5".
Ribbon: 1-1/8".
Brim: 2-1/4" fore and aft.
Sweatband: 1-7/8".

 

[delectans]

Derby Comparison


Top, oblique view of, from L to R, Mallory Aristocrat, C&K Special Quality, and Stetson Select Quality. Note the significant differences in crown height and shape, as well as brim width and curl.



Frontal view illustrating the differences in brim curl and crown shape. The Mallory Aristocrat to the left represents a compromise between the taller crowned and more highly curled narrow brim of the C&K Special Qualityin the center, and the lower, taperless, flat crowed and flatter curled, wider brimmed Stetson Select Quality to the right.



Frontal quater view further demonstrating the differences in crown shape and taper.

 

[mayserwegener]

Al, Fantastic sequence of Derbies! The side by side comparison shots are excellent + informative.

 

[alanfgag]

Al, I'm worried... very worried (and agree with Steve's post above.)

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Great Pictures Al showing the different types of derby's.

 

[Chasseur]

Delectans,

Thank you for a beautiful and informative series of posts! Unfortunately, now I want a bowler...

 

[mayserwegener]

Brüder Böhm Wien Melone, 58cm.

Hut-Schick Wien Melone, measures about 59cm.

 

[delectans]

Steve: I appreciate your kind remarks, thank you. Love your Brüder Böhm Melone. Can you clarify why the name used is 'Brüder' versus 'Gebrüder'? An expedient contraction, perhaps? Your Hut-Schick Melone is incredible as well.


Alan: Thanks, and no need to worry, my friend. Many others here are more severely afflicted with this incurable malady than me. lol


Ed: Thank you, and I am guessing the old Mallory is your favorite of the bunch.


Chasseur: I am hoping that you are size ≤7-1/4 or ≥7-3/4! lol Thanks for your kind words.