The Bowler or Derby Hat

[mayserwegener]

Thanks for posting them!

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Hello I love your beaver skin bowler hat. Do you want to sell it?








So this one is a bit odd. It doesn't appear to have been converted from a top hat to bowler. But its very clearly two different colors of silk plush or beaver fur. the bottom is a dark brown, the top is more often seen black. It looks like it was repaired at some point by someone other than Dunlap.

Whats also strange is that the construction seems far more delicate than what would be needed for an equestrian derby. This would provide very little head protection.

Aside from that it's in wonderful condition considering its age. It is a small size, but after wearing it out and about I feel like this was meant to be worn on the very top of the head. I don't think i've gotten more compliments on a hat than this one.

[/QUOTE]
Indeed a very interesting one... :O

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Vintage Lock & Co Equestrian Bowler. Hot and heavy. Could probably take the weight of Edward Coke himself

My vintage Tress & Co. bowler is stiff and heavy, fells like a helmet.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

My vintage Tress & Co. bowler is stiff and heavy, fells like a helmet.

That's interesting. Here's my high-crown Tress, which is one of the lightest Bowlers I own. Weighs just 132g. Is it possible yours is an Equestrian hat?

 

[mayserwegener]

Super!

Very light Stiff Felts weigh in around 110 - 120g. For example this Rehfus & Cie ZEPHIR that belongs to Manfred. This one weighs 115g (the hat shell only 70g) and is from the early 1900s.

Details

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/20-rehfus-federleicht/#entry605

 

[fabiovenhorst]

That's interesting. Here's my high-crown View attachment 53959 View attachment 53960 Tress, which is one of the lightest Bowlers I own. Weighs just 132g. Is it possible yours is an Equestrian hat?

My Tress & Co. seems to be a little bit taller than yours and and have less taper on the crown. I think it's older too. The lining is (or was) white with black printing in a 20's style

 

[mayserwegener]

C. G. Wilke "Haar Rival", 60cm, 168g, probably late 1920s maybe early 1930s. This is a great Stiff Felt with a fantastic finish and a interesting bow design. It measures closer to 61cm so a big one. This one was definitely conformed causing a small amount of brim distortion front to back.

You can see the can see conformed head shape in the following photo.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

These German Bowlers are an absolute revelation. I had no idea!

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! I have about 35 old German and Austrian Stiff Felts.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

C. G. Wilke "Haar Rival", 60cm, 168g, probably late 1920s maybe early 1930s. This is a great Stiff Felt with a fantastic finish and a interesting bow design. It measures closer to 61cm so a big one. This one was definitely conformed causing a small amount of brim distortion front to back.

You can see the can see conformed head shape in the following photo.

Beautiful bowler... I really like the bow job in the ribbon.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! I agree!

 

[Steph]

Aaaand ninety-five pages later....

 

[Steph]

I've got two bowlers on the way. Well, a bowler and a derby, to be most accurate.

First, the bowler. Forgive the pictures, they are eBay specials. It hasn't arrived yet. My head seems to measure 23 3/16s, so I hope this is a bit small. It is marked 7 5/8s and 62, but I wore 7 5/8 in the military. I like this brim. You guys can probably date it off of the top of your head, but I can't. Yet.

Then...

 

[Steph]

...

A Dobbs derby which the seller noted as being 7 3/8 (excellent), but also noted 22 3/4 inside the brim (not so excellent).

And, can't really make out the tag on the right of the photograph, other than "4393":

We shall see when they arrive. Could end up being two up, two down.

 

[TheManInTheHat]

Looks beautiful! And lightweight I think. I have the same hat - yours has been better looked-after. But British sizes tends to be one full size larger than US so you may need to make a discreet adjustment.

 

[Steph]

Thank you all for your posts over the years, I have learned a lot!

 

[Steph]

Looks beautiful! And lightweight I think. I have the same hat - yours has been better looked-after. But British sizes tends to be one full size larger than US so you may need to make a discreet adjustment.

Crap, then the Dunn will likely be huge on my 23 3/16" head.

One down, one to go.

Actually, one up, one down. D'oh!

 

[TheManInTheHat]

See when it arrives. But there are easy ways to make it fit perfectly. I often use little strips of sponge - (kitchen sponge, nothing fancy) - about 3 inches long and 0.75 inches wide and 0.25 inches thick and just tuck them here and there under the sweatband. It works.

 

[Steph]

See when it arrives. But there are easy ways to make it fit perfectly. I often use little strips of sponge - (kitchen sponge, nothing fancy) - about 3 inches long and 0.75 inches wide and 0.25 inches thick and just tuck them here and there under the sweatband. It works.

Thank you for the tips, I'll give it a shot.

I assume that hat shops today do something similar with something other than sponge?

 

[Steph]

What do you professionals do with the little fiddly bits of provenance in your vintage hats?

Some lovely condition Austrian miracle bowler shows up at your place, filled with stamps and tags and bits behind the sweatband. Do you leave them there, knowing that if you're going to use the hat that they will quickly get destroyed? Remove them for safekeeping? Just roll with it, as it's a hat to be enjoyed?

Unless you are ordering a museum piece for looking at, what say you?