Stetson Open Road Panama Straw.

[TheDane]

Here are the pics after the hat was re-blocked, re-flanged, and the original ribbon was removed....

Great job, Josh! Too little cattle in the streets of Copenhagen, so I'm not a fan of cattlemans crease either ... too "exotic"

What block did you use? The slight taper and pretty flat crown points toward a #52 - it looks beautiful!

 

[Joshbru3]

Looks good, Josh, better than the original style.

I agree about the cattleman crease. I like it on westerns, but for me the OR proportions are out of balance when creased that way.

Great pics, especially from inside to show the weave with the light coming through. I think it's a beautiful hat either way. I love the cattleman crease, but the final product is remade exactly as you want it and looks as sharp as any hat I've seen.

Nice job of customizing.

Just great.

Geez...that Open Road Straw has a super nice pattern on the top of the crown, too, in the weave! I have seen some really sweet looking straw hats being worked on over the years from Josh....he has a great eye and a well learned knack for making an ordinary boring looking hat, look "damned fine" by the time he is done. Amazing work, fantastic looking hat!

THANK YOU very much everyone!! Panama straw is pretty tricky to work with because even when wet, there is always the chance of breaking the straw or separating the weave. I was holding my breath the whole time but I really love the way it turned out and can't wait to wear it this summer!

Thanks again!!

 

[Joshbru3]

Great job, Josh! Too little cattle in the streets of Copenhagen, so I'm not a fan of cattlemans crease either ... too "exotic"

What block did you use? The slight taper and pretty flat crown points toward a #52 - it looks beautiful!

Thanks, Ole!!

I used a "Columbia" block. I have found that the Columbia blocks are even straighter than the 52's.

 

[Bob Roberts]

Thanks, Ole!!

I used a "Columbia" block. I have found that the Columbia blocks are even straighter than the 52's.

Would you mind some pics of that block? Thanks.

 

[Joshbru3]

Would you mind some pics of that block? Thanks.

No problem. I actually just checked and the block I used wasn't a "Columbia", but a "Graeco" block. I have owned both Columbia and Graeco blocks and found that they are basically the same. Both blocks are straighter than a 52 block.

This picture has shows 3 blocks....

On the far left is a Graeco block 6 inches tall. The center block is a Graeco block 5 1/4 inches tall, and the far right is a regular 52.





This is a 6 inch tall "Columbia"

 

[Bob Roberts]

No problem. I actually just checked and the block I used wasn't a "Columbia", but a "Graeco" block. I have owned both Columbia and Graeco blocks and found that they are basically the same. Both blocks are straighter than a 52 block.

This picture has shows 3 blocks....

On the far left is a Graeco block 6 inches tall. The center block is a Graeco block 5 1/4 inches tall, and the far right is a regular 52.





This is a 6 inch tall "Columbia"

Thanks. Those 6 in blocks are nice. Especially the Greco.

 

[TheDane]

I have owned both Columbia and Graeco blocks and found that they are basically the same. Both blocks are straighter than a 52 block

I agree that some Columbias are straighter, but I also believe that "finer/minor" specs varied between suppliers. In my 50s catalog from Hatters Supplies Co. in Chicago the #52 is designated: "#52 Columbia". With them it was two names for the same block, but other suppliers offered two different blocks. But also the taper, shoulders and roundness can vary slightly between suppliers, offering both blocks. It was long before 3D-models and CNC

 

[Joshbru3]

I agree that some Columbias are straighter, but I also believe that "finer/minor" specs varied between suppliers. In my 50s catalog from Hatters Supplies Co. in Chicago the #52 is designated: "#52 Columbia". With them it was two names for the same block, but other suppliers offered two different blocks. But also the taper, shoulders and roundness can vary slightly between suppliers, offering both blocks. It was long before 3D-models and CNC

I totally agree that blocks varied between suppliers. Without question. I will say however that I have owned more 52's that showed variance than Columbia and Graeco blocks. Out of all the blocks labeled 52 that I have owned, I can honestly say that only a few of them have been super straight and flat on top. Most of them are straight enough, but still have a roundness to the top of the block and slight (albeit very slight) taper on the very top. The several Graeco and Columbia blocks I have owned have been from different manufactures and they have all honestly been pretty much identical in shape and profile.

In the several early 1900's Stetson ads that I have seen, the hats Labeled Graeco and Columbia have been super strait. The crowns basically have no taper at all just like the blocks with the same names. They seemed to have been Western styled hats. Perhaps the Graeco and Columbia blocks were meant for western hats verses the 52 which was primarily a "fedora" block??

 

[Bob Roberts]

I totally agree that blocks varied between suppliers. Without question. I will say however that I have owned more 52's that showed variance than Columbia and Graeco blocks. Out of all the blocks labeled 52 that I have owned, I can honestly say that only a few of them have been super straight and flat on top. Most of them are straight enough, but still have a roundness to the top of the block and slight (albeit very slight) taper on the very top. The several Graeco and Columbia blocks I have owned have been from different manufactures and they have all honestly been pretty much identical in shape and profile.

In the several early 1900's Stetson ads that I have seen, the hats Labeled Graeco and Columbia have been super strait. The crowns basically have no taper at all just like the blocks with the same names. They seemed to have been Western styled hats. Perhaps the Graeco and Columbia blocks were meant for western hats verses the 52 which was primarily a "fedora" block??

Was wondering, what size are the 6 in Graeco and Columbia?

 

[Short Balding Guy]

THANK YOU very much everyone!! Panama straw is pretty tricky to work with because even when wet, there is always the chance of breaking the straw or separating the weave. I was holding my breath the whole time but I really love the way it turned out and can't wait to wear it this summer! Thanks again!!

Josh; Your efforts make a huge difference in appearance and wearability of the straw hat. I continue to be impressed with your detailed knowledge and hand craftsmanship. Your efforts yield results. The hand shaping shows a artisan eye. Well done. I am considering ordering a like hat to work "Josh magic" to create a wearable straw.

Did you work the straw with hot water (like a steamer) or did you soak or spritz it? Long ago I took a Sunbody and soaked it in distilled water and began to shape t on a block and it literally fell apart. It was like it was a paper-like in that parts of the weave became thinner and other places appeared bigger gaps in the weave. Totally destroyed the hat. When dried it was brittle and delicate - not wearable. An experiment gone bad for me. I am curious to work a vintage straw hat to open crown, clean the straw body, and then re-form a crease. I am thinking of a current straw body that's crease has very sharp and abrupt lines and I want to give the body a fighting chance to make another 70 years. I am excellent at "holding my breath," but any other anxious moments I should be prepared for?

Josh, a bit off topic, but with another vintage straw I am considering having replacing the leather sweat. It is old and quickly cracking enough to consider replacing. I can certainly save the band for antiquity sake, but a new band will give the straw utility and many years of appreciation. I have checked with a local hat person here in the MPLS/St.Paul, MN area and he said he could replace the leather band but will glue the new band in. Glue a leather band in? Is that an option to consider?

Thanks in advance, Eric -

 

[Joshbru3]

Was wondering, what size are the 6 in Graeco and Columbia?

The Graeco 6 inch block is a size 7 and I believe the Columbia was a size 7 1/4. I sold the 7 1/4 Columbia a while ago.

 

[Joshbru3]

Josh; Your efforts make a huge difference in appearance and wearability of the straw hat. I continue to be impressed with your detailed knowledge and hand craftsmanship. Your efforts yield results. The hand shaping shows a artisan eye. Well done. I am considering ordering a like hat to work "Josh magic" to create a wearable straw.

Did you work the straw with hot water (like a steamer) or did you soak or spritz it? Long ago I took a Sunbody and soaked it in distilled water and began to shape t on a block and it literally fell apart. It was like it was a paper-like in that parts of the weave became thinner and other places appeared bigger gaps in the weave. Totally destroyed the hat. When dried it was brittle and delicate - not wearable. An experiment gone bad for me. I am curious to work a vintage straw hat to open crown, clean the straw body, and then re-form a crease. I am thinking of a current straw body that's crease has very sharp and abrupt lines and I want to give the body a fighting chance to make another 70 years. I am excellent at "holding my breath," but any other anxious moments I should be prepared for?

Josh, a bit off topic, but with another vintage straw I am considering having replacing the leather sweat. It is old and quickly cracking enough to consider replacing. I can certainly save the band for antiquity sake, but a new band will give the straw utility and many years of appreciation. I have checked with a local hat person here in the MPLS/St.Paul, MN area and he said he could replace the leather band but will glue the new band in. Glue a leather band in? Is that an option to consider?

Thanks in advance, Eric -

Thank you so much, Eric. Your kinds words truly mean a lot to me.

The first thing I did to the Straw Open Road was use my jiffy steamer to "pop" out the old creases and get as much of the original crease out with steam. That being said, you have to be careful because too much steam can dry out and crack the straw. Working with a new straw body is far easier than working with many vintage straw bodies because the new stuff usually isn't dried out. Also because modern straw bodies are loaded with stiffener, you have to work quick because once removed from the steam, the straw sets up fairly quickly.

After I popped out the original crease with steam, I then inserted a block and very slowly started to steam and pull the body over the block. I never forced the straw because I didn't want to crack it. Once the body was on the block, I then used a cotton cloth as a buffer so I could hot iron the straw on the block. I sponged some water on the hat body, laid the cloth over the crown, and slowly started to iron the crown. I have found that the only way to really remove all traces of prior creasing (especially modern hydraulic pressed creases) is to iron the body over a block. You have to make sure that the hat block has been clear coated or is exceptionally clean and free of old wood stain because otherwise the ironing will transfer dirt and color into the inside of the crown. Some people opt to cover the block with a felt cap first before pulling the straw body over it but I have found that makes pulling the body over the block more difficult.

Glue in a new sweatband?? I mean, it is possible to do, but I personally wouldn't. Sewing a new sweatband into a straw hat is just as easy as sewing it into a felt hat body. In my opinion, sewing a sweatband into a hat body is always far superior than using glue of any sort.

 

[TheDane]

You have to make sure that the hat block has been clear coated or is exceptionally clean and free of old wood stain because otherwise the ironing will transfer dirt and color into the inside of the crown. Some people opt to cover the block with a felt cap first before pulling the straw body over it but I have found that makes pulling the body over the block more difficult.

I have noticed that some hatters/factories use a plastic bag for cooking to cover the block - at least when blocking light colored felt on a finger-blocker. I have no personal experience with the method. I have just noticed the praxis in photographs.

As to gluing in the sweat ... I may consider it, if I some weird day should choose to buy a glued together suit

 

[Frunobulax]

Glue in a new sweatband?? I mean, it is possible to do, but I personally wouldn't. Sewing a new sweatband into a straw hat is just as easy as sewing it into a felt hat body. In my opinion, sewing a sweatband into a hat body is always far superior than using glue of any sort.

I have only worked with Milans, not straws, but I agree. Sewing is better.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Thank you so much, Eric. Your kinds words truly mean a lot to me.

The first thing I did to the Straw Open Road was use my jiffy steamer to "pop" out the old creases and get as much of the original crease out with steam. That being said, you have to be careful because too much steam can dry out and crack the straw. Working with a new straw body is far easier than working with many vintage straw bodies because the new stuff usually isn't dried out. Also because modern straw bodies are loaded with stiffener, you have to work quick because once removed from the steam, the straw sets up fairly quickly.

After I popped out the original crease with steam, I then inserted a block and very slowly started to steam and pull the body over the block. I never forced the straw because I didn't want to crack it. Once the body was on the block, I then used a cotton cloth as a buffer so I could hot iron the straw on the block. I sponged some water on the hat body, laid the cloth over the crown, and slowly started to iron the crown. I have found that the only way to really remove all traces of prior creasing (especially modern hydraulic pressed creases) is to iron the body over a block. You have to make sure that the hat block has been clear coated or is exceptionally clean and free of old wood stain because otherwise the ironing will transfer dirt and color into the inside of the crown. Some people opt to cover the block with a felt cap first before pulling the straw body over it but I have found that makes pulling the body over the block more difficult.

Glue in a new sweatband?? I mean, it is possible to do, but I personally wouldn't. Sewing a new sweatband into a straw hat is just as easy as sewing it into a felt hat body. In my opinion, sewing a sweatband into a hat body is always far superior than using glue of any sort.

Thanks Josh. Excellent advice. I need to start by looking for a new block as mine current one fits snug and there is no room for cotton cloth as a buffer. As to the glue - I agree it sounded like an easy out compared to the long term solution.

Looking at the pics again this morning, I can see your newly re-done straw easily accompanying you on your guitar playing gigs in the upcoming warmer weather. I can not wait to see what your next project might be. Best, Eric -