Spear point collar shirts

[Two Types]

Thank you for taking the time to post up & reply to my request for a update !



did you request a pocket ? i dont see one on the yellow shirt posted,

That's what we are all here for after all: to share knowledge and experience.

Yes, I decided to add a pocket.

Good luck with your shirt!

 

[Edward]

I don't understand why the spearpoint collar is so hard to find at an economical fair price. I had a google tonight but still very hard to find. I see them all the time on American films and TV productions and yet they are virtually impossible to come across in the UK unless you are prepared to pay a hefty premium.

Fashion / demand. The (think of themselves as) gods that decide what is "in fashion" haven't chosen that collar style, so noone stocks it so noone wants it and vice versa.

Straight out of the package:

• Is it 100% period accurate? I don't know (and don't really care).
• Does is fit well? Yes. The fit is amazing.
• Is it comfortable? Incredibly comfortable.
• Is it my new favourite shirt? Yes.
• Was it easy to order? Yes
• Did they make the shirt exactly as I asked? Yes - I simply said 'here are my measurements - make me a blue shirt just like the yellow spearpoint one posted on the FL.
• Will I be ordering from Luxire again? Certainly
• Would I recommend Luxire to others? Yes, definitely.

So there you are. That's my happy feedback on Luxire shirts.

Including shipping, it came to £38.90.

I think that is the best price I've seen for spearpoint collar shirts. I believe that is less than half the price of the shirts that Marc Chevalier worked on last year (the company name escapes me at the moment). It is also significantly cheaper than the Darcy Clothing (Vintage Shirt Company) shirts.

The fabric feels very soft but it is also nice and thick, unlike some of the very thin shirting you sometimes find.

Lovely! I will have to get onto ordering some of those when I have the cash. Can they be made with eyelets for a collar bar?

Definitely a good price. FWIW, that's around what the ones Angels Wardrobe Supplies do (and those are button cuff only). Darcy's shirts come in about double that (around £75 inc VAT, as I recall), while the ones Marc was involved with were about equivalent to GBP140, if memory serves. Beautiful, but I jut could not afford to spend that on one shirt. I had the impression Marc was a little disappointed they weren't more popular on the lounge, but I think the price point was a barrier to a lot of us.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Straight out of the package:

• Is it 100% period accurate? I don't know (and don't really care).
• Does is fit well? Yes. The fit is amazing.
• Is it comfortable? Incredibly comfortable.
• Is it my new favourite shirt? Yes.
• Was it easy to order? Yes
• Did they make the shirt exactly as I asked? Yes - I simply said 'here are my measurements - make me a blue shirt just like the yellow spearpoint one posted on the FL.
• Will I be ordering from Luxire again? Certainly
• Would I recommend Luxire to others? Yes, definitely.

So there you are. That's my happy feedback on Luxire shirts.

HMMMMMM...

I am darkly pleased but unsurprised that the shirt looks like a vintage example and fits perfectly -- that the details are proper to the era: especially the collar; the cut, yoke shape and its shirring, the specs of the cuffs...oh, those innumerable tiny details that involved months of physically sending Luxire collar samples and actual original shirts, honing and defining measurements and elements on a number of prototype shirts to finally get the whole thing right, for the express purpose of having them produce my own private label line.

Needless to say I am a bit beside myself at the moment seeing as it's available from their site, without nary word nor nod to me.

 

[Tomasso]

Needless to say I am a bit beside myself at the moment seeing as it's available from their site, without nary word nor nod to me.

Welcome to the business world, grasshopper.

 

[herringbonekid]

can't see any shirts available on your site Matt.

 

[Matt Deckard]

That's exactly the point.

 

[herringbonekid]

you've removed the option ?

 

[Rudie]

Wow. If that's true it is truly disgusting.

How come you didn't realize earlier what was going on? Luxire has been posting in this thread for months.

 

[herringbonekid]

before this descends into a war it's worth remembering that no one owns the copyright on spear-point collars, just as no one owns the copyright on belt-back jackets. they are public domain, vernacular design. fashion is incredibly difficult to copyright.

 

[Eckener]

I don't think there's a war coming but it's worth a clarification. I know a bit about the whole thing because this shirt is based on one of my own early-30s European shirts. (Spear) point is, Matt spent many, many hours in development on this: the triangle gusset on the butterfly side-seam took several emails and physical prototypes to perfect; the shape of the tail and its back length; the cut of the chest and of course his obsessive hammering on them for correct armhole placement; and that collar took multiple iterations in and out of prototype to perfect -- the curve, point, closure, angle to achieve that look was the hardest-won of all the efforts -- the correct collar-stand shape to allow the collar to roll just so and allow the tie to be held in the closure in the perfect ca. 1936 manner...

...it's true no-one holds "copyright" on the spearpoint collar concept but in this case would have been the right thing to give credit where credit was due.

Nathan Marsak

 

[herringbonekid]

don't worry, i understand entirely why Matt may be annoyed if he feels his hard work has gone uncredited.

Nathan, you're something of a mythic character among the US old guard on here. i wish you would contribute more (and i can't believe this is your first post).

 

[Johnny J]

Spear Point Collar with 4" points. Unfused, lined with a layer of warzone Oxford.

Man, I haven't looked at this thread for sometime! I just ordered one of these with a 3 1/2" spear point collar white poplin. I don't know if I can pull off the 4".

 

[Luxire]

HMMMMMM...

I am darkly pleased but unsurprised that the shirt looks like a vintage example and fits perfectly -- that the details are proper to the era: especially the collar; the cut, yoke shape and its shirring, the specs of the cuffs...oh, those innumerable tiny details that involved months of physically sending Luxire collar samples and actual original shirts, honing and defining measurements and elements on a number of prototype shirts to finally get the whole thing right, for the express purpose of having them produce my own private label line.

Needless to say I am a bit beside myself at the moment seeing as it's available from their site, without nary word nor nod to me.

I almost had no defense here but am lucky. In a recently published interview, I said this:

" We have been like a sponge, absorbing every drop of knowledge that we come across. The biggest contribution has been from a dear friend whom I have never met. He gave us our first order and a lot of guidance... Then, a respected fashion blogger sent us a Siniscalchi shirt, which helped us learn a lot about the finer details. Earlier, a potential bulk customer made us work hard at creating a perfect vintage shirt. As soon as we got to the mark, he disappeared. I was initially angry but now look back thankfully. "

The paragraph above highlights our willingness to give credit for what we are making.

Matt did contribute to the development of this product. We made and sent him many samples. We got his labels made on assurance of an order confirmation. He selected fabrics for his bulk order. Paid not a single penny and disappeared. We sent him multiple reminders. He chose not to reply.

The last communication from him was in May. We sent him few reminders after that. Then we gave up. Still waited a few months for him before coming and trying to sell shirts here.

As I said, Matt did contribute to the development this product. But there is a lot to it beyond him.

So, we have been completely fair in our part of the bargain. Cannot say the same for Matt.

 

[Luxire]

I don't think there's a war coming but it's worth a clarification. I know a bit about the whole thing because this shirt is based on one of my own early-30s European shirts. (Spear) point is, Matt spent many, many hours in development on this: the triangle gusset on the butterfly side-seam took several emails and physical prototypes to perfect; the shape of the tail and its back length; the cut of the chest and of course his obsessive hammering on them for correct armhole placement; and that collar took multiple iterations in and out of prototype to perfect -- the curve, point, closure, angle to achieve that look was the hardest-won of all the efforts -- the correct collar-stand shape to allow the collar to roll just so and allow the tie to be held in the closure in the perfect ca. 1936 manner...

...it's true no-one holds "copyright" on the spearpoint collar concept but in this case would have been the right thing to give credit where credit was due.

Nathan Marsak

1. We received 2 prototypes: 1 a collar, whose design was not the one finally accepted as the spearpoint design, another a shirt which was not accepted as the final design either.

2. There was no physical prototype for the gusset

3. The shape of the tail was made as requested by the buyer of the first shirt, the pale yellow oxford. He said he wanted 11" long side slit. Yes, Matt's shirt also had a long side cut.

4. The sleeve design was never part of Matt's shirt. This was as per the Quirrel's request.

5. Matt's shirt did not have the pull-over placket design or pleat below. This was made as per Quirrel's request.

 

[Eckener]

don't worry, i understand entirely why Matt may be annoyed if he feels his hard work has gone uncredited.

Nathan, you're something of a mythic character among the US old guard on here. i wish you would contribute more (and i can't believe this is your first post).

Glad you can see why Matt's raised an eyebrow...it's a bit sticky, will scribble a bit more on this Luxire business after I finish this.

As for my posting, I did so a bit under the "Nathan" moniker after Mssr Chevalier put up pix of a few of my beltbacks some years ago. (But I've no idea what the Nathan password is and FL won't tell me and the email linked to it is long gone and we're out of ice.) Always thought I'd add to assorted conversations—but have been so ably represented by comrades Chevalier and Deckard that I've usually spent my time deferring to their wisdom, and going off to contribute to Skyscraperpage forums. Anyway.

Now I feel like I'm using up valuable spearpoint collar-talk on alternate matters so, after another post, maybe I'll actually have the gumption to toss a couple images of vintage shirt collars on here...

 

[Eckener]

1. We received 2 prototypes: 1 a collar, whose design was not the one finally accepted as the spearpoint design, another a shirt which was not accepted as the final design either.

2. There was no physical prototype for the gusset

3. The shape of the tail was made as requested by the buyer of the first shirt, the pale yellow oxford. He said he wanted 11" long side slit. Yes, Matt's shirt also had a long side cut.

4. The sleeve design was never part of Matt's shirt. This was as per the Quirrel's request.

5. Matt's shirt did not have the pull-over placket design or pleat below. This was made as per Quirrel's request.

Thank you for your response and clarifications!

Loungers, just to be clear (should careless reader have read otherwise) I've no opinion nor pass judgment on Luxire as a business; obviously I could never impugn the glory of the shirt itself, paragon as it is of quality and value and, you know, 30s-shirtness. Seriously, if you have an ounce of taste (and you do, as you're on this thread) go without heat and dinner and that health insurance crap to acquire one in every color (and multiples in your favorite pattern) because they're obviously that good. You know who agrees with me? Matt Deckard.

Deckard is a bit crestfallen here, and I still maintain that's within his right. I recall his original pull-over suggestion, his curved cuffs, the drawings of the gusset, the whole collar thing, etc. But I believe it counterproductive to enter into explication of the minutiae. Arnaud, let's just say y'all worked together to produce something great and humanity will benefit (kudos to Quirrel's input on the project, too). I know Deckard would have loved to have had these as part of his line, as intended—but after you quoted your minimum order, and the costs thereof, Matt went into raising startup capital mode, and the costs proved prohibitive.

Could communication between the two of you have been better? Certainly. Could you have made it mutually beneficial, and increased your sales? Definitely. Could you have made a better shirt? I don't think so. Nor could anyone. But then, I've never worn one, so what do I know? But I look forward to the opportunity.

In short, blessings on both of you, you're both doing great work, and I hope and trust you come to future agreements copacetic to your shirt-buying public. Because, y'know, another half-inch on the collar and zero tie space...

 

[Luxire]

Thank you for your response and clarifications!

Loungers, just to be clear (should careless reader have read otherwise) I've no opinion nor pass judgment on Luxire as a business; obviously I could never impugn the glory of the shirt itself, paragon as it is of quality and value and, you know, 30s-shirtness. Seriously, if you have an ounce of taste (and you do, as you're on this thread) go without heat and dinner and that health insurance crap to acquire one in every color (and multiples in your favorite pattern) because they're obviously that good. You know who agrees with me? Matt Deckard.

Deckard is a bit crestfallen here, and I still maintain that's within his right. I recall his original pull-over suggestion, his curved cuffs, the drawings of the gusset, the whole collar thing, etc. But I believe it counterproductive to enter into explication of the minutiae. Arnaud, let's just say y'all worked together to produce something great and humanity will benefit (kudos to Quirrel's input on the project, too). I know Deckard would have loved to have had these as part of his line, as intended—but after you quoted your minimum order, and the costs thereof, Matt went into raising startup capital mode, and the costs proved prohibitive.

Could communication between the two of you have been better? Certainly. Could you have made it mutually beneficial, and increased your sales? Definitely. Could you have made a better shirt? I don't think so. Nor could anyone. But then, I've never worn one, so what do I know? But I look forward to the opportunity.

In short, blessings on both of you, you're both doing great work, and I hope and trust you come to future agreements copacetic to your shirt-buying public. Because, y'know, another half-inch on the collar and zero tie space...

Thank you Eckener.
Though there is a lot to say here, but, would only say that minimum order and cost were discussed at the onset in January. Matt knows how willing I was to accommodate his requests. There can be no justification for suddenly stopping all communications as email requires no capital.

But yes, if that would not have happened, there would never have been a Luxire tag on a spearpoint collar shirt.

This forum cannot be a good place to talk on one's business ethics, but those who have done business with me, including some of our customers whom people here will know, know how we work and fear god.

Would let Matt know through this forum, nothing has really changed. He wears an intelligent head under his hat and if he can come up with another idea, I am there to take it to fruition, without an iota of reason to complain or heartbreak.

 

[Eckener]

Thank you Eckener.
Though there is a lot to say here, but, would only say that minimum order and cost were discussed at the onset in January. Matt knows how willing I was to accommodate his requests. There can be no justification for suddenly stopping all communications as email requires no capital.

But yes, if that would not have happened, there would never have been a Luxire tag on a spearpoint collar shirt.

This forum cannot be a good place to talk on one's business ethics, but those who have done business with me, including some of our customers whom people here will know, know how we work and fear god.

Would let Matt know through this forum, nothing has really changed. He wears an intelligent head under his hat and if he can come up with another idea, I am there to take it to fruition, without an iota of reason to complain or heartbreak.

I agree, this is not the forum to discuss business ethics. Am certain yours are beyond reproach and I know Matt's to be, so I consider that case closed.

In a perfect world, you and he will work together swimmingly on a project to surpass even this somewhere in the near future.

 

[Luxire]

Certainly. I consider it closed too.

The perfect world is for us to create and you can count me in to play my part.

 

[Eckener]

The shirt that Started it All:

Deckard and I tried to have this Laantmann-Wäsche remade by our guys in India but it never turned out right; that's when we turned to Luxire, and the rest is hysteria.



This

is the collar all shirts should have. Also, all shirts should be silk and made in Los Angeles. In 1934.

and have no pockets, because, shirt pockets? What are you, a bookkeeper?

And then there's the likes of this. You have to be a dedicated nutjob to wear this on a daily basis. I wore this to a Christie's New York job interview back in the early 90s. I was tremendously overqualified for the position and am pretty sure this shirt kept me from attaining employment which, looking back, is probably the best thing that ever happened to me.

So these spearpointy characters were what were hanging around, and, granted, my images are not as catalogue-worthy as some on these pages. But these shots get their essential nature across, I think.