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Simmons Bilt Detroit

Messages
17,512
Location
Chicago
Just took ownership of this jacket this week. As my fetish seems to be "steering" me toward the cross zip half belt and having owned (quite) a few from various makers I thought I'd give SB a crack at it, my second from them in this style as I also owned a Brigand jacket in Horween Bison that was lovely as well.
I was after a slim fitting version of this pattern so I took the measurements of my existing jackets in this style and made adjustments per those specs to provide the #'s to SB. I wanted a CR type fit. Slim, longer body and sleeves, tighter, squared off shoulders. It came to me perfectly to spec per my requested augmentation to the standard 42". Some other simple mods like zippered hand warmers and button cuffs as well.
The main and most noticeable difference between this jacket and my others of this type is the arm hole, it's cut super high. The jacket is also much more narrow, from front to back than the others. Small details like a Kevlar strip at the hem, and wider, almost 70's esque lapels really appeal to me. The hide itself is Horween CXL #8, steer. It's insanely thick and ridiculously heavy, naturally, I love it! Lined in simple OD cotton. Unfortunately Chicago is cast under a sky that resembles a hotel ashtray and has been for most of the winter but here are some pics for those interested. I'll try to get some better ones as it breaks in via the jacket o' the day thread.
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Messages
17,512
Location
Chicago
Looks good! :)
Is it beastly heavy?
It is HM. Outweighs both the JL and the BL. Wears like the leather a belt should be made out of. Probably not everybody's cup o' tea but l love this kind of hide. I really want Alan to do up a CR for me in the CXL cognac he has. I have a sample. It's got to be the heaviest leather that one can possibly make a jacket out of. This is a close second.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
That's really nice, great fit!
It's interesting that they put a small backing leather disc on the underside of the cuff buttons rather than a backing button!
I was worried about the button pulling through on my D pocket ticket pocket and kinda wished Aero used a backing button. A leather disc seems even better in that location.
 
Messages
17,512
Location
Chicago
That's really nice, great fit!
It's interesting that they put a small backing leather disc on the underside of the cuff buttons rather than a backing button!
I was worried about the button pulling through on my D pocket ticket pocket and kinda wished Aero used a backing button. A leather disc seems even better in that location.
My JL has the same feature, the leather "disc" as opposed to the button. It's nice as it doesn't have any effect on the feel of the cuff.
One thing I forgot to mention, this jacket shipped on a Friday and arrived to my door in Chicago on Tuesday with no customs interference or delays.
 
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Mark

Practically Family
Messages
638
Location
UK
Very nice. I like the way steer seems to wrinkle up more than horse. Nice colour too. Those arm holes do look high, do they impinge on your movement at all?
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,323
Location
Germany
Jacket looks great. But for some reason, every jacket you present here, looks great. You got your measurements figured out right on spot. Congratulations on this one! I am impressed by the little details on your jacket, too. Great work from Steve and his crew.
 
Messages
16,855
It's just too perfect. What JJ said; fitwise and otherwise, you post a jacket and it's clear it simply cannot be topped and then you post another one and it's somehow even better. And what the hell, man, the leather on the cuffs looks half an inch thick. Or around the main zip. Makes LW or Vanson look lightweight and I'm not even exaggerating. What's this, 8oz? I gotta get something made out of this stuff some day. I don't even know what but it's happening. And the Kevlar strip!? Just awesome.

Pocket is almost vertical which is cool but what I really love are the lapels. I find those large ones, 70's style infinitely nicer than the regular collar so this jacket is seriously the nicest cross zip you got as far as I am concerned. And one that I've seen in general.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,875
Location
East Java
that cuff and lapel would take a shape and turn into a sculpture with some wear:)
I love how thick leather retains its own shape and how it will have several but meaningful creases, rather than a soft thin leather that will turn into second skin with 1000000 wrinkles
 
Messages
16,855
It's true! Thick, heavyweight hide gets only a few of those major creases in the sleeves, biceps, around armpits and a few folds in the back right away and that's it. Doesn't budge much from there. Some parts will look new even after a decade of wear. That's why I'm always hoping the first ones are gonna form nicely but they usually do. :D
 

K-Pants

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Button cuffs? Kevlar at the hem?
Wow, I wish I had seen this before I ordered my Detroit, which should be done any day now. (seriously, Kevlar at the hem? What the...?!?!)

About the arm holes--did you ask for higher arm holes because your other cross-zip SB had arm holes that were too big/low?

Anyway, Very nice, Ton312. This is a really great jacket. The reason it turned out so well, I think, is because you know what you want, know your measurements and had great ideas. That's awesome!
 
Messages
17,512
Location
Chicago
Button cuffs? Kevlar at the hem?
Wow, I wish I had seen this before I ordered my Detroit, which should be done any day now. (seriously, Kevlar at the hem? What the...?!?!)

About the arm holes--did you ask for higher arm holes because your other cross-zip SB had arm holes that were too big/low?

Anyway, Very nice, Ton312. This is a really great jacket. The reason it turned out so well, I think, is because you know what you want, know your measurements and had great ideas. That's awesome!
I'm pretty sure the Kevlar hem is standard on this jacket and yours will have it too. I didn't request it but I fugg'n love it. I did not spec anything beyond the lengths and widths. Post yours up when it's done!!
 

K-Pants

One of the Regulars
Messages
137
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I'm pretty sure the Kevlar hem is standard on this jacket and yours will have it too. I didn't request it but I fugg'n love it. I did not spec anything beyond the lengths and widths. Post yours up when it's done!!

I did not see that in the jacket description and after looking at it again at the SB site I do not see a mention of kevlar. What a pleasant surprise.

But on the arm holes: does your other SB jacket have arm holes that are too big?

Yes, I will post on my Detroit when it arrives, though I can't imagine it would look better than yours.
 

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