Show us your British suits

[esteban68]

The jacket is a two button affair with two buttons on eaxch cuff, double rear vents, two pockets inside to the left and one to the right side;

apologies for poor photos ...the light was fading...true colour is probably best seen on the lining of the jacket turned inside out and the up turned collar shot, It's very fresh and appears completely unworn with no staining, the slightly garish pattern may be the reason it had little wear!!!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Gentlemen, here is a ‘mystery’ Shetland wool suit: no tailor labels of any kind, though the plus-fours’ buckles have a British maker’s name and the waistcoat’s back buckle says “British”.


The lining fabric is a very thick and slippery rayon satin, the kind I’ve seen on non-American clothing only. The coat’s sleeves have surgeon’s cuffs.


1930s? I reckon so. What say you?


Any thoughts about this suit would be greatly appreciated!




Marching flat cap:

Front:

Back and waistcoat:

Underside of coat’s collar:

Sleeve (narrow):

Inside of sleeve cuff:

Shoulder seam:

Shoulder and yoke:

Hand-worked buttonhole on front of coat:

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Inside of coat:

Inside of waistcoat:

Back of waistcoat, and close-up of back buckle:

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Side view and inside of plus-fours:

Inside crotch of plus-fours:

Back of plus-fours:

Lining at the leg strap:

Close-up of buckle at the leg strap:

 

[herringbonekid]

Marc, i can tell by the fly and brace buttons ... it's British!

those circular pocket corner strengtheners... never seen anything like them !

 

[herringbonekid]

Marc, it goes without saying that this is one of the rarest and most unique suits to ever have been shown here.

i wonder if a yank back in the late 20s - early 30s had it tailored in the UK then went back home with it, or if it was made for a Brit and subsequently got over the pond via vintage buyers later in its life ?

 

[Chasseur]

those circular pocket corner strengtheners... never seen anything like them !

Those really caught my eye as well. What a fantastic suit! :eusa_clap

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Marc, it goes without saying that this is one of the rarest and most unique suits to ever have been shown here.

I agree with you. It's that one "pearl" that the fisherman gives a lot in order to possess.

 

[Nick D]

Brace buttons, belt loops, and side adjusters? Either the man wanted options or those things were staying in place no matter what.

The rounds at the pocket corners are fascinating. Can you give a better closeup of one of the pockets?

It looks like there's some sort of tape above the legbands. Are they stays, or are they covering darts?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It looks like there's some sort of tape above the legbands. Are they stays, or are they covering darts?

They're covering the darts.

 

[scotrace]

Fabric, craftsmanship, construction, tailoring, interesting details, desirable format. This suit has everything going for it. And it is in exactly the right hands. I hope it stays put for a good while.

 

[dhermann1]

Marc, maybe you ought to double check to see if your personal measurements match the Duke of Windsor's, you never know.
Also, I think those buckles were made by that famous manufacturer, BSL (Birmingham Small Legs).

 

[billyspew]

Thanks to Marc for pointing this one out.

That suit is incredible and peculiar.
I find it strange that the jacket and breeks are unlined and yet the waistcoat does have, unusual for what looks to be a sporting suit, could it have been designed to wear in warmer climates and the waistcoat for when they're in colder locations I wonder? Only supposition I know.

Strange the only label is in the hat too? Could it have been made elsewhere?

The style looks very early... but it's hard to place, but above all else this suit is incredible. I can only hope a pray I find something half this great in my size.

Bill

 

[Mario]

I find it strange that the jacket and breeks are unlined and yet the waistcoat does have, unusual for what looks to be a sporting suit, could it have been designed to wear in warmer climates and the waistcoat for when they're in colder locations I wonder? Only supposition I know.

I was wondering about that too. Most British-made jackets I've seen so far were fully lined - and came without a belted back.

 

[esteban68]

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Side view and inside of plus-fours:

Inside crotch of plus-fours:

Back of plus-fours:

Lining at the leg strap:

Close-up of buckle at the leg strap:

Truly great find Marc, almost like toad of toad hall ...poop, poop!

 

[herringbonekid]

Marc, maybe you ought to double check to see if your personal measurements match the Duke of Windsor's, you never know.

the Duke was very small: about 35-36 chest and 5' 6"ish ...Marc's suit is about a 40R. however, i'm certain that this suit was made for someone who was influenced by the styles made popular by the Duke.

from the American 'Men's Wear Magazine' 1924: "the average young man is more interested in the clothes of the Prince of Wales than the clothes of any other individual on earth" he was known for popularising fair ilse sweaters, 'plus four' golf knickers, and 'floppy golf hats'.

you can see some of the POW's plus four suits here:

http://42ndblackwatch1881.wordpress.com/2009/02/08/the-duke-of-windsors-sartorial-style-country/

all of them made between '23 and '34 which is when i think Marc's suit dates from.

I was wondering about that too. Most British-made jackets I've seen so far were fully lined - and came without a belted back.

yes, but as i said on another thread, this applies to lounge suit jackets and not to sports jackets, norfolks, school blazers and work jackets. British belted back jackets existed. they just appear incredibly rarely. you see them in English 30s films. there's one in almost every George Formby film i've seen from the late 30s to the early 40s.




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[Matt Deckard]

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Side view and inside of plus-fours:

Inside crotch of plus-fours:

Back of plus-fours:

Lining at the leg strap:

Close-up of buckle at the leg strap:

I kept bidding on that darned thing.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Quite remarkable! As to the question about lining, that the breeches are unlined is not surprising to me as I understand that such lining was considered a little effeminate, even in the case of the scratchiest tweeds! I would also take it for granted that the waistcoat would be lined - I don't think I've ever come across one which wasn't. The jacket is very intriguing, though.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Glad that Loungers are enjoying this remarkable suit!

Marc's suit is about a 40R.

A form-fitting 39 R, in fact. The coat's sleeves are high and tight, and its chest has no 'English drape' -- but the hips flare out slighty.

 

[DJH]

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Glad that Loungers are enjoying this remarkable suit!
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Marc, you find the coolest stuff. I always read your posts - even on subjects I had no previous interest in - just to see what the heck you've uncovered now!