Show us your British suits

[herringbonekid]

yes... most probably German (or maybe French) going by the way the lining is finished around the inside pocket, and the shape of the back pocket flap.

when i worked at the vintage shop Cenci, they used to get a regular supply of this sort of suit from Europe. black like an evening suit, but minus the fancy tux trimmings. i used to assume they were simply a less formal evening suit or to be worn by people such as classical / big band musicians, but Cobden may be right, they could be domestic uniforms too.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

But without all the other things that make an evening suit, grosgrain lapels, jetted pockets, trouser braid, so what does that make it?

Due to their ubiquity, I reckon that these were uniforms for restaurant and hotel waiters. I've often seen double-breasted versions, too: same black barathea fabric, same construction. These suits seem to have been made from at least the 1920s to the early '70s ... only the lapel widths and lining fabrics changed over time.

 

[Two Types]

Due to their ubiquity, I reckon that these were uniforms for restaurant and hotel waiters. I've often seen double-breasted versions, too: same black barathea fabric, same construction. These suits seem to have been made from at least the 1920s to the early '70s ... only the lapel widths and lining fabrics changed over time.

Thank you - and thanks to everyone who has chipped in with replies on this suit.
In answer to the Baron's question: the buttonhole is not even stiched. I examined it to discover it is simply a line of thread - not even a stitched buttonhole.
I think the idea of a uniform is spot on (indeed a did see a similar facric in a double breasted version recently).
As a suit, the question of its lack of waistcoat troubled me, especially since it was in pristine condition. I wondered about whether it would have been worn with a contrasting waistcoat (a look still seen on hotel staff)?. As such, the suit would not necessarily have been stored - then sold on - with a waistcoat.

Based on the lapel, cloth and trousers, I am guessing this example dates to the 1950s. What do you think?
(If I decide to sell it I was thinking of advertising it as being undated by somewhere between 1930 and 1960?)

Thanks again to everybody for their input.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes, the line of thread fake lapel buttonhole. Not so rare as you might imagine on period clothes.

I think you can safely say 30s-40s.

bk

 

[Two Types]

Yes, the line of thread fake lapel buttonhole. Not so rare as you might imagine on period clothes.

I think you can safely say 30s-40s.

bk

I learn something new each day. Thank you.

 

[Chasseur]

More photos of my 1954 Austin Reed three piece, made in mid-weight fabric that is similar (identical?) to the fabric used for morning dress trousers.

I love the waistcoat with the double pleats:

Trousers are great with all the traits I love in vintage British trousers: double forward pleats, button fly, watch pocket, slight fishtail back, etc.

I've had my tailor make copies of both the trousers and the waistcoat.

Waistcoat in tan doeskin:

Trousers in charcoal flannel:

 

[Chasseur]

Interesting "Continental style" late 1950s or early 1960s blue 3 button by Burton. Heavy blue wool that drapes wonderfully.

I love that the trousers are very traditional: cuffs, double forward pleats, button fly, button waistadjusters, suspender buttons, etc. even though the jacket is in a more "modern" (narrow lapels, etc.).

Late 1960s (early 1970s?) three piece by Hector Powe. I know its a later style than what we like on the Lounge, but it was my first vintage suit I bought! Also I love the heavy charcoal with blue, silver and red pinstripes.

Trousers have one shallow forward pleat, zipper waist adjusters, watch pocket, etc.

 

[esteban68]

I posted this in the show your suits thread but being British it probably belongs here?
I bought this recently, a Magee Killarney twist two piece, not sure of the date 1960's???;

date label but I cannot make it out as very, very feint

again retailled by J.J Shorts

 

[esteban68]

and a few more;

 

[esteban68]

the trousers; YKK side adjusters

OPTI zipper

 

[Tailor Tom]

That vest is singularly one of the best pieces I've seen. Every stripe matches through-out the entire garment...pockets, lapels to body, collar to lapels, etc. Beautiful craftsmanship. That had to have taken a bit of serious thought to build.

 

[herringbonekid]

Nicolls of regent street

a suit by one of the lesser known makers, H.J. Nicoll & Co Ltd. or 'Nicolls of Regent street'. i know next to nothing of this company. they appear to have had stores of ready to wear (for ladies too) and a bespoke department. you can see that this suit is the work of cutter number 26. it's probably late 30s.

they also did their bit for the war effort:

a google search found this: "H. J. Nicoll & Co. (not to be confused with Harvey Nichols & Co.) was a clothing retailer and bespoke tailor established at Regent Street in London's West End. They also acted as merchant tailor to Queen Victoria and the Royal family.

The company had branches in Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham, and Paris. The business operated until c1962"

if anyone has more info on this company please chime in.





not to be confused with this similar black flannel (unlabelled) suit from earlier in this thread:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...ritish-suits&p=1312705&viewfull=1#post1312705

 

[Baron Kurtz]

not much to chime in. This is probably from the same page you got your info …

 

[herringbonekid]

have you ever seen a suit by this maker before Baron ?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Nope, not that I recall. How would you judge the quality, in comparison to a Hepworths, Austin Reed, Horne Bros., Burtons etc.?

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

Nope, not that I recall. How would you judge the quality, in comparison to a Hepworths, Austin Reed, Horne Bros., Burtons etc.?

i don't have an Austin Reed or Horne Bros suit for comparison. i do have Burtons and Hepworths... the overall feel is lighter weight with a less heavy chest canvas. the gorge is higher and the lapels wider than both the Burtons DB suits i have. the shoulders are almost unpadded across the top with most of the padding at the sleevehead which gives a more elegant line i think. sometimes Burtons or Hepworths shoulders can be a bit lumpy or boxy. other than that the finish is not vastly different apart from little details like leather trouser cuff reinforcers and those trouser side adjusters. also the trouser side pockets are more forward sloping than usual.

(what i'm describing though is really just the type of differences you might find between a bespoke suit and an off the peg suit, but as you know i'm a big fan of the quality of vintage off the peg, generally speaking).


edit: me wearing the above suit.

(apologies for the poor quality shots)

 

[Two Types]

I wasn't sure where to post these, but it seems that the 'British suits' thread is as good a place as any. This is from 'Wide World' magazine in 1951 (I had never heard of this magazine until I found this issue at my late mother's home). It is a feature about modern British attitudes to fashions and looks at the differences between bespoke and off-the-peg, looking at the contrast between the attitudes of young men and those of their fathers.
I hope it's of interest to some of you:

 

[PADDY]

Some great suits being displayed here.

 

[herringbonekid]

this is a 1940s unlabelled Brit DB of almost regulation specification. there's absolutely nothing unexpected in the features on the jacket or trousers. what is rather unusual is the fabric. it is a herringbone flannel multi-stripe in aqua-green, purple and yellow ochre on what can only be described as 'industrial-river-sludge' brown; a muddy, slightly greenish brown. almost impossible to show dirt on, and with a kind of grim northern character that i like, hailing as i do (originally) from a grim northern city.

 

[esteban68]

OK this ones a bit modern, I am guessing at the early 1970's? again it's a locally retailed suit by John J Short of Chesterfield, made in 'Freedom' 'Super Worsted Twist'cloth, also in my exact size 42S, It needs nothing doing save adding a lapel button hole;

trousers have a single forward facing pleat on each side and two rear pockets one of them being buttoned

no belt loops and fastened by a button two hook/eyes and a 'Lightening' zipper