Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Snookie]

Man I just went through this whole thread. I'm trying to find sites or "How to" on pattern grading. I just picked up some patterns that are about one size too small. Can anybody send me in the right direction?

I just looked on Lady Day's new web site and saw she has the way she does it. That might help. Thank you LD

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00224.asp

The cut and spread method is the easiest to do accurately, for someone inexperienced.

I personally tend to use patterns that are 1-2 sizes too small for me, according to the pattern measurements. Check the patterns, either by measuring (subtract the seam allowance, and compare to garments in your closet) or by doing a mockup, to see if you really need to adjust. I don't happen to like as much ease as they give.

 

[dakotanorth]

Vest are hot?

dakotanorth, now's the perfect time to make a vest! There so in right now, in the general world and even more in the dance scene. Look formal without getting overheated! (Sure, sure, I know the guys try to claim that jackets get in the way, but we all know the truth.)

We've looked at a couple high-cut vests on the market recently (Target and Express), and though they used good fabrics, it's still obvious to a discerning eye that they're modern, b/c they have low armholes and they're slightly long. So I'd look out for those things if you use a modern pattern - raise the armholes, and raise the waist and hem.

Other than that, the only tricky thing I see about a vest is welt pockets. Those get me every time. Must practice.

I didn't realize vests were in! Last time was the hip-hop era.... Ah, the 90's.
Anyways, good point on the armhole opening- I've found a few patterns from the mid 50's, I would think they should work. Right? [huh]
Welt pockets- yeah, my pants pockets are *ALMOST* right. I'm curious to see a welt pocket with that front facing thing (maybe it's not that different?)

 

[Lady Day]

Man I just went through this whole thread. I'm trying to find sites or "How to" on pattern grading. I just picked up some patterns that are about one size too small. Can anybody send me in the right direction?

I just looked on Lady Day's new web site and saw she has the way she does it. That might help. Thank you LD

Is it a vintage pattern? If so, what is the seam allowance? If its 5/8" you can generally flub a size up by taking off a quarter of that seam allowance, making it 1/2" and using the difference for your garment.

Remember, I like talking out of the side of my face, so my way may not help

LD

 

[Sunny]

Man I just went through this whole thread. I'm trying to find sites or "How to" on pattern grading. I just picked up some patterns that are about one size too small. Can anybody send me in the right direction?

I just looked on Lady Day's new web site and saw she has the way she does it. That might help. Thank you LD

Here's another one to try: http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm

I personally tend to use patterns that are 1-2 sizes too small for me, according to the pattern measurements. Check the patterns, either by measuring (subtract the seam allowance, and compare to garments in your closet) or by doing a mockup, to see if you really need to adjust. I don't happen to like as much ease as they give.

Snookie, do you do that for vintage patterns or for modern ones? I find that modern ones tend to have way too much ease; but when I make a vintage pattern according to my measurements, it fits perfectly with relatively little ease.

 

[hotrod_elf]

This pattern

Is the one I want to resize. You know what LD I looked for the seam allowance and I could not find it. The copy right date is 1959, so I'm thinking that the seam allowance is 1/2. I did find some fabric in my stash that I will make a mock up in. My measurements are 37-31-36. I know the dress will be easy but the Bolero will be the fun one. I need to make the arms wider.

[/IMG]

 

[hotrod_elf]

Here's another one to try: http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm


WOW that explains it..... very easy to understand. Thank you,

Now I can buy the rest of those vintage patterns I found and not have to worry about what size they are!!!!! I don't know if this is bad or good to knowlol lol

View B is the one I'm going to make.

 

[BettyValentine]

I'm so glad it's helpful! I've read the Men's and Women's versions, but never been disciplined enough to go through it step by step.

I've got a question for you, BV - I seem to remember a long time ago you talking about sending skirts to a professional pleater? I'd really love to make a crystal pleated skirt, do you think there are places that would set in the pleats chemically for me, and be willing to only do 1 or 2? Do you have any experience with that, or was it something different? Thanks!

That would be really pretty.

I saw it done a few times when I worked at a theater, the places didn't seem to mind doing just one garment. I'm not sure about the specifics though. I think we used a place in New York called Stanley Pleating. There's also a place in Brooklyn called S.F. Pleating, and San Francisco Pleating Co.

None of these places have websites, though. I wish they did.

 

[dakotanorth]

Remember one thing!

Here's another one to try: http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm

WOW that explains it..... very easy to understand. Thank you,

Now I can buy the rest of those vintage patterns I found and not have to worry about what size they are!!!!! I don't know if this is bad or good to knowlol lol

View B is the one I'm going to make.

I'm not being insulting, just thorough for every reader out there:
If you alter the size of a pattern, especially a vintage one that has been out of print for 50+ years, PLEASE make a copy of it, then alter the copy! If you make a mistake you can always start over. Preserve the past. :eusa_clap

 

[deadpandiva]

Here's another one to try: http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm


WOW that explains it..... very easy to understand. Thank you,

Now I can buy the rest of those vintage patterns I found and not have to worry about what size they are!!!!! I don't know if this is bad or good to knowlol lol

View B is the one I'm going to make.

Sadly I could only follow some ofthat. I will have to re read a few times. At least the skirt sizing sounds simple enough. I have a gored skirt pattern that I need to size up about 3 inches in the hips. The problem is that I want the waist to stay the sime size.

 

[Sunny]

Sadly I could only follow some ofthat. I will have to re read a few times. At least the skirt sizing sounds simple enough. I have a gored skirt pattern that I need to size up about 3 inches in the hips. The problem is that I want the waist to stay the sime size.

That's a whole 'nother issue, although you use a similar technique. Instead of "slash and spread," you "slash and swing": Make a cut lengthwise through each gore (or two, depending on how many gores). Then you keep the waist the same, but swing out the cut. So instead of adding strips, you're adding wedges. You can be pretty accurate if you measure yourself, then the pattern at the same point, and add enough inches to make it fit plus ease.

Her skirt directions are good for simple, fairly straight skirts. The more flared the skirt, and especially the more curved the waistline, the more likely you'll need to slash anyway instead of adding to the outside. Adding only to the outside can give a pretty weird effect to certain skirts - trust me! lol

 

[hotrod_elf]

I'm not being insulting, just thorough for every reader out there:
If you alter the size of a pattern, especially a vintage one that has been out of print for 50+ years, PLEASE make a copy of it, then alter the copy! If you make a mistake you can always start over. Preserve the past. :eusa_clap

I just ran out to the fabric store to get some paper to copy the patterns. I was not about to cut up a vintage pattern.

 

[deadpandiva]

That's a whole 'nother issue, although you use a similar technique. Instead of "slash and spread," you "slash and swing": Make a cut lengthwise through each gore (or two, depending on how many gores). Then you keep the waist the same, but swing out the cut. So instead of adding strips, you're adding wedges. You can be pretty accurate if you measure yourself, then the pattern at the same point, and add enough inches to make it fit plus ease.

Her skirt directions are good for simple, fairly straight skirts. The more flared the skirt, and especially the more curved the waistline, the more likely you'll need to slash anyway instead of adding to the outside. Adding only to the outside can give a pretty weird effect to certain skirts - trust me! lol

I would think you would need to move the darts and possable change there length also in some cases.
Conceptually I think I know what is needed to alter the skirt and I'll do a mock up first. And I will be altering the traced pattern. Wish me luck everyone.

 

[AnnaMaria]

I would think you would need to move the darts and possable change there length also in some cases.
Conceptually I think I know what is needed to alter the skirt and I'll do a mock up first. And I will be altering the traced pattern. Wish me luck everyone.

A mockup is a good idea when uncertain of the pattern. Adding some more seam allowance is another way, so you can take it out or in.

If the skirt has many gores it can work fine just just dividing the extra width on each gore.

Good luck!

 

[Snookie]

Snookie, do you do that for vintage patterns or for modern ones? I find that modern ones tend to have way too much ease; but when I make a vintage pattern according to my measurements, it fits perfectly with relatively little ease.

I think modern patterns have even more ease than vintage ones, but I still go down about one size in vintage patterns. I should use B36 patterns, but B34 patterns usually fit me perfectly, and my favorite blouse pattern is B32. [huh] But I think I used to go down about 3 sizes in modern patterns.

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

I just ran out to the fabric store to get some paper to copy the patterns. I was not about to cut up a vintage pattern.

Oooh! That stuff can be expensive!! Your local dollar store should have some plain white wrapping paper or, my personal fav, the bown paper used for wrapping up mailing packages or covering school books. Both come on rolls of anywhere from 5-15 feet. And it's only a dollar. So for all those slash-and-spread patterns, you aren't trying so hard to conserve.... not that you shouldn't anyway...

 

[Snookie]

That would be really pretty.

I saw it done a few times when I worked at a theater, the places didn't seem to mind doing just one garment. I'm not sure about the specifics though. I think we used a place in New York called Stanley Pleating. There's also a place in Brooklyn called S.F. Pleating, and San Francisco Pleating Co.

None of these places have websites, though. I wish they did.

Thanks so much! I'll try to find some info on those places. I'm sure there's some out here too. I'm just glad to hear that they're willing to do small orders.

 

[Sunny]

Oooh! That stuff can be expensive!! Your local dollar store should have some plain white wrapping paper or, my personal fav, the bown paper used for wrapping up mailing packages or covering school books. Both come on rolls of anywhere from 5-15 feet. And it's only a dollar. So for all those slash-and-spread patterns, you aren't trying so hard to conserve.... not that you shouldn't anyway...

My mother and I adore this stuff from Clotilde:

http://www.clotilde.com/detail.html?prod_id=120&cat_id=12

It's FAR better than the imitation stuff in the stores. Ballpoint pens work great on it, it's plenty transparent for tracing, it doesn't tear or crumble, it can be ironed smooth, and (my favorite) it can be sewn. So after laboriously tracing out and modifying a pattern, if I figure out I really need that extra half-inch, I just sew a little extra piece on and then correct the lines. It's fantastic stuff. :eusa_clap

We usually buy 2-4 rolls at a time. And we mainly go through it for CW stuff - tracing a great coat takes a lot of pattern material! Otherwise it'd last us very long indeed.

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

Sunny- That doesn't sound half bad!

I've used everything from wrapping paper to tissue paper and old comics out of newspapers. When I worked at a coutourier in NYC we'd run out of actual pattern paper so frequently that everything and anything became fair game for patterns.


*ouch* that last statement just bordered on pretentious! Sorry!

 

[hotrod_elf]

Oooh! That stuff can be expensive!! Your local dollar store should have some plain white wrapping paper or, my personal fav, the bown paper used for wrapping up mailing packages or covering school books. Both come on rolls of anywhere from 5-15 feet. And it's only a dollar. So for all those slash-and-spread patterns, you aren't trying so hard to conserve.... not that you shouldn't anyway...

Actually, have a story related to this.
So, I ask the young peppy sales girls if there is any tracing paper. I get a quick big NO. I'm thinking yeah right, so I go ask the OLDER woman who is at the cutting table. I explain that I need something to trace out my vintage patterns. Her eyes get big and smiles at me, "Here honey I'll show you what I use". 99 cent prepackage interfacing 3 yrds. Cool, I buy two packages. Now when I got them home they are 15in wide and 3 yrds long. It worked for what I had to do, but I know some of my patters the skirts are wider.


Oh I did the slash and spread method last night on my dress, it worked out for the most part. Had to do some twicking in the darts, I was happy with the out come!!!!1

 

[Cherry_Bombb]

hotrod_elf- Great deal! I've found that the older women usually do know better than the younger girls, even if you do explain what it's for.

*sigh* And this is why the "old trades" are going to be lost in the near future.