Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[sheeplady]

Wow, that is an amazing detail I never would have thought to try. Do you ladies think that one could "reverse" the darts on any piece?

The big end of the dart would have to be on the seam to be enclosed I think, but I'm wondering if the "inside out dart" would give a nice detail to things that otherwise are a little plain.

 

[I Adore Film Noir]

Wow, that is an amazing detail I never would have thought to try. Do you ladies think that one could "reverse" the darts on any piece?

The big end of the dart would have to be on the seam to be enclosed I think, but I'm wondering if the "inside out dart" would give a nice detail to things that otherwise are a little plain.

Oh, yes. Look here:

The darts need a good pressing, though.

 

[BoPeep]

I must be living in a hole. Never thought to do outside darts...

 

[ColeV48]

Thank you much! That option made the most sense, but I had never actually seen it done.

 

[Amie]

Finishing Side Opening With Underlap

You know how a lot of vintage patterns have the little diagram of how to sew an underlap for the side opening to sew hooks...well, it usually says to cut a strip of fabric to create the underlap, but does that strip have to be on the bias?

 

[ColeV48]

You know how a lot of vintage patterns have the little diagram of how to sew an underlap for the side opening to sew hooks...well, it usually says to cut a strip of fabric to create the underlap, but does that strip have to be on the bias?

I think they say that simply because most of the time the underlap is attaching to a curved seam. If the dress is completely straight, it wouldn't have to be (but they rarely are). But a bias would allow it to curve with the seam of the garment. I did a non-bias strip on my last dress and it fought with me a bit.

 

[Drappa]

I am getting an overlocker for my birthday and have been reading reviews and unfo for weeks now. I've narrowed it down to the Juki MO644 or the Bernina 800DL. Do any of you have these or have any thoughts on them? I know both are made by Juki and apparently very similar, but it's a big purchase for me and I hate decisions. I was also considering the Pfaff Hobbylock 2.0, but haven't been able to find much on those and would have to order online, while I saw dealers for both te Juki and Bernina. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[lareine]

Drappa, have you asked the ladies (and gents) on PatternReview.com? They are very helpful and knowledgeable, and there are many overlocker discussion and comparison threads.

You won't look back once you've got one. They are wonderful even just for whipping around the edges before you sew something up, so it doesn't fray. And if you sew knits...

 

[Drappa]

Thanks Lareine, I have checked on pattern review as well as two sewing forums and asked fellow sewers. Last weekend I found two sewing shops locally and phoned every shop in the area. I started off with a really small budget, but have now decided on the Bernina 1150 and will have to wait a few more weeks. The dealer said he would give me a discount and since I don't plan on upgrading or buying one every year I thought I'd stretch the budget a bit and get a good one.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Would one of you fine ladies be willing to make me 2 pairs of pants? I have been searching for 2 weeks for someone in my neck of the woods who is able to,but I have struck out. I can supply the fabric as well as a pair of pants to use as a guide/pattern. I would gladly pay you a reasonable fee.

Thanx!!!
Charlie

 

[MissNathalieVintage]

Does anyone know where I can find some vintage 1940's-early 1950's sewing patterns.
Skill leve:l beginner. Hand sewer only.

 

[regius]

ladies, may I ask a question about sewing and thread and I hope some of you can kindly give me some advice. I have a horsehide A2 flight jacket, it's a leather jacket basically, and I want to have the local tailor in new york to change its size for me. The original thread is a kind of heavy cotton, the manufacturer is a top WW2 leather jacket reproduction maker, and they are loyal to the originals. but the tailor says they prefer use polyester on leather, I didn't ask why they don't use cotton, but I did ask about nylon. they say nylon is too hard and too tough for leather, it will eat in the leather. polyester is an equally strong synthetic but not as stiff. so, any advice on whether i should let them use polyester or find a matching cotton thread? many thanks!

 

[kamikat]

Does anyone know where I can find some vintage 1940's-early 1950's sewing patterns.
Skill leve:l beginner. Hand sewer only.

Most of us get alot of patterns on eBay or etsy. Simplicity and Butterick have several current reprints that are good for beginners, with modern instructions, at any local fabric store. I'd avoid the Vogue reprints, as they are mostly intermediate or advanced.

 

[lareine]

ladies, may I ask a question about sewing and thread and I hope some of you can kindly give me some advice. I have a horsehide A2 flight jacket, it's a leather jacket basically, and I want to have the local tailor in new york to change its size for me. The original thread is a kind of heavy cotton, the manufacturer is a top WW2 leather jacket reproduction maker, and they are loyal to the originals. but the tailor says they prefer use polyester on leather, I didn't ask why they don't use cotton, but I did ask about nylon. they say nylon is too hard and too tough for leather, it will eat in the leather. polyester is an equally strong synthetic but not as stiff. so, any advice on whether i should let them use polyester or find a matching cotton thread? many thanks!

If your tailor has a preference and you trust your tailor, why would you question it? If you can't even rely on them to choose the right type of thread, you should probably take your business elsewhere

Cotton thread is liable to fray and shred, which makes it rather unsuitable for sewing on leather, and it can also grow old and rot through a lot sooner than polyester thread. If you don't want polyester for some reason then rayon thread is another good choice.

 

[Frenchy56]

Hi guys!

I have a question. I have never sewn anything before and for my first project I wanted to make a 50s/60s style blouse/shell top. Very, very basic - at least to my eye. Sleeveless, no collar, box shape with buttons in the back. Hopefully you know what I mean. I have a few vintage ones and I love them, and seeing as they look (!) simple I thought I could just try making my own by tracing the blouse itself, then cutting out material. Do you think this would work? I hope I'm explaining myself. Any advice appreciated.

 

[bunnyb.gal]

I'm so happy! I've finally enrolled on a 40's and 50's sewing course. Once it begins I'll probably be a right plague on this thread! (thread - no pun intended!)

 

[sheeplady]

Hi guys!

I have a question. I have never sewn anything before and for my first project I wanted to make a 50s/60s style blouse/shell top. Very, very basic - at least to my eye. Sleeveless, no collar, box shape with buttons in the back. Hopefully you know what I mean. I have a few vintage ones and I love them, and seeing as they look (!) simple I thought I could just try making my own by tracing the blouse itself, then cutting out material. Do you think this would work? I hope I'm explaining myself. Any advice appreciated.

Does the blouse have any darts in it? Darts (if you're not familiar with them) are like little tucks in the fabric. They are used around the bust and and waist on many things. You described a "square" fit so it sounds like they don't have darts.

As long as you trace along each of the pieces, add a seam allowance (typical is 5/8"), and do a mock up (out of muslin) I think it would be fine. I've done things with tracing before. However, just as a warning, it's hard to get things to lay flat. You might want to pin it to the paper before tracing it. The only other thing I can see as being a problem is how you will finish the edges. You could do a fold over (fold the fabric over and top stitch it), use a bias binding (cut a strip of fabric on the bias and then sew that strip over the raw edge), or make the blouse lined (do two versions and sew them together). The easiest is the fold over.

I think that this could work, but if it gets too frustrating, I'd look for a pattern. Even veteran seamstresses get frustrated by things, but you don't want to let your frustration put you off of sewing.

 

[sheeplady]

I'm so happy! I've finally enrolled on a 40's and 50's sewing course. Once it begins I'll probably be a right plague on this thread! (thread - no pun intended!)

What's a 40's 50's sewing course? I've never heard of such a course! What sorts of things will you sew? Is it vintage techniques or items or what?

 

[Frenchy56]

Does the blouse have any darts in it? Darts (if you're not familiar with them) are like little tucks in the fabric. They are used around the bust and and waist on many things. You described a "square" fit so it sounds like they don't have darts.

As long as you trace along each of the pieces, add a seam allowance (typical is 5/8"), and do a mock up (out of muslin) I think it would be fine. I've done things with tracing before. However, just as a warning, it's hard to get things to lay flat. You might want to pin it to the paper before tracing it. The only other thing I can see as being a problem is how you will finish the edges. You could do a fold over (fold the fabric over and top stitch it), use a bias binding (cut a strip of fabric on the bias and then sew that strip over the raw edge), or make the blouse lined (do two versions and sew them together). The easiest is the fold over.

I think that this could work, but if it gets too frustrating, I'd look for a pattern. Even veteran seamstresses get frustrated by things, but you don't want to let your frustration put you off of sewing.

sheeplady, I am so sorry for the late response! (I always find once school gets into swing I end up having to abandon the board )

your advice sounds very good, though you might be pleased to hear I ended up going for a pattern (or three)

I can't wait to make these! They are *exactly* the kind of thing I was looking for and one is coompletely uncut. All 3 are from the 50s and were $10 or less each. The only thing I am bothered about is that the waist size listed for one of them is 28 and I am a 29 or 30. But, the blouses look to be loose fitting, so perhaps they will still fit, I don't know.

It looks like most of them have darts, I think a couple of the views don't. But, they seem fairly simple, and I showed them to a relative who is a pretty good seamstress and she doesn't think i'll have any trouble.

I am so excited! This will be the first thing I have ever sewn! I will be sure to post pics of my finished creations!

 

[sheeplady]

sheeplady, I am so sorry for the late response! (I always find once school gets into swing I end up having to abandon the board )

your advice sounds very good, though you might be pleased to hear I ended up going for a pattern (or three)

I can't wait to make these! They are *exactly* the kind of thing I was looking for and one is coompletely uncut. All 3 are from the 50s and were $10 or less each. The only thing I am bothered about is that the waist size listed for one of them is 28 and I am a 29 or 30. But, the blouses look to be loose fitting, so perhaps they will still fit, I don't know.

It looks like most of them have darts, I think a couple of the views don't. But, they seem fairly simple, and I showed them to a relative who is a pretty good seamstress and she doesn't think i'll have any trouble.

I am so excited! This will be the first thing I have ever sewn! I will be sure to post pics of my finished creations!

Those look great! Don't be afraid of darts. Darts and zippers are two things I swear that they try to scare beginners over all the time. With the darts, make sure to mark them well and accurately on the fabric, sew right off the fabric at the end of the dart (the narrow part), and then press them really well. I'm sure they will come out lovely.