Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[kamikat]

What about cotton batiste? It's fairly light and washes nicely.

But when you wear a cotton slip with a cotton dress, they stick together, like serious static cling.

 

[Medvssa]

What about a satin rayon?

 

[cailinbeag]

Yardage Conversion Chart

I didn't know where else to post this. I came across a yardage conversion chart that I thought you folks might find handy. Vintage patterns and fabrics worked in widths that aren't common anymore, and I'm always lost when I find myself, for example, trying to decipher how much 45" fabric I need for a pattern that calls for 32" fabric. Or vice versa.

Please feel free to save and print the below chart for your sewing room, or even send it to your cell phone so you've got it on you while you're shopping.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

lining fabric

I didn't think about the static cling factor. However, I made a dress in cotton and lined with cotton batiste and didn't notice a cling problem at all. Maybe it was so minimal as to be unnoticeable. I'll have to pay closer attention next time.

 

[Lauren]

I second rayon satin. Can hand wash it and it's not too thin. There was some black rayon satin on fashionfabricsclub.com for sale a little while back and it was 60" wide, I think.
I like these slips. I also have the "I don't want to make slips" syndrome! lol. I haven't bought one yet but I think they're nice and cut true to period.
http://www.leluxeclothing.com/servlet/the-Satin-Slips/Categories

 

[CherryRed]

I didn't know where else to post this. I came across a yardage conversion chart that I thought you folks might find handy. Vintage patterns and fabrics worked in widths that aren't common anymore, and I'm always lost when I find myself, for example, trying to decipher how much 45" fabric I need for a pattern that calls for 32" fabric. Or vice versa.

Please feel free to save and print the below chart for your sewing room, or even send it to your cell phone so you've got it on you while you're shopping.

Thank youfor posting this. I know some stores have it you ask them, but I prefer to figure it out myself.

 

[goldwyn girl]

fusible interfacing

I'm not a fan of fusible interfacing and don't use it. I'm making up a dress and bolero which both suggest using fusible. Am I being stubborn about not using it, is it period correct to the 40's - 50's ? Thoughts or issues would be appreciated, thanks

 

[Inky]

I'm not a fan of fusible interfacing and don't use it. I'm making up a dress and bolero which both suggest using fusible. Am I being stubborn about not using it, is it period correct to the 40's - 50's ? Thoughts or issues would be appreciated, thanks

I don't use it, never have liked it. I always replace it with a regular interfacing (usually woven when possible) no matter what the pattern says. Is there some specific reason why this one wants fusible?

 

[goldwyn girl]

That was quick ! It's to face out a cut out in the dress and the cuffs in the bolero. I worry that the fusible part will show through the fabric especially if sections come unglued.

 

[Inky]

LOL - i was reading on my lunch break

without seeing a picture of it, I would guess you wouldn't have to use fusible - what's the pattern?

 

[kamikat]

That was quick ! It's to face out a cut out in the dress and the cuffs in the bolero. I worry that the fusible part will show through the fabric especially if sections come unglued.

Modern patterns always call for fusible, even if it's not the right stuff, like in suits or menswear. Historically, organza or organdy was used as interfacing.

 

[goldwyn girl]

This dress, view A

And this bolero

 

[Lady Day]

Muslin, or a prima cotton are also a great choices for interfacings, and Ive seen them used in lots of my vintage garments

LD

 

[goldwyn girl]

Thank you Lady Day

 

[Inky]

Yep, ditto what LD says - I love using muslin and it's affordable!

Kami - thank you for that tip about organza and organdy - I can see where that would work too!

 

[goldwyn girl]

Muslin and organdy are on my list to pick up tomorrow, thank you !

 

[Laughing Magpie]

I'm tired of searching eBay for a full slip in my size. I have a pattern, but I don't know what fabric to use. I know modern slips are usually nylon tricot, but that would be hot in the summer. Silk charmuse might work, but would it hold up to repeated washings and my only experience with silk charmuse is a blouse that always sticks to me in humid weather. Any ideas?

I just made a silk slip actually - I think I would have preferred to use something heavier than what I used, which was really lightweight.

I routinely machine wash in warm water and then tumble dry (warm again) silk satin/charmeuse/crepe/twill/habotai before cutting and sewing with it. It'll need to be pressed afterwards, but I think it comes out ok. Then the final garment could theoretically be machine-washed warm and dried, though at that point I often use cold water and hang to dry.

Silk is actually tougher wet than dry, while rayon is the opposite - it weakens when wet. So long as you have the opportunity to wash/dry it before sewing, then silk will stand up to washing better than rayon will.

Both silk and rayon have trouble with dyes running, so be aware of that if you have a printed fabric and test first.

Not that I don't love rayon! But silk is tough and beautiful, and I find it easier to get ahold of these days than rayon (the opposite of our sisters in the '40s).

Some entries on Fabrics.net to contrast the properties of rayon and silk:
http://www.fabrics.net/manufact.asp
http://www.fabrics.net/silk.asp

Oh - I forgot to add, you could certainly find heavier silks than what I used for my slip. I usually buy white silk from the Dharma Trading website and then dye it myself if I want a different colour. They have a wide range of silk weights and it's usually less expensive than buying it from my local fabric stores (the ones in my neighbourhood have rotten selection and high prices). They have rayons too.

 

[fifties gal]

I've made Butterick 5033 with the little cutout in the front and I love it.

 

[Lauren]

For interfacings, if you use muslin make sure you wash it REALLY good first. Like in hot water and dry, because muslin tends to shrink, and shrink, and shrink since it's griege goods and isn't treated like normal fabrics for finished dressmaking. If you're going for it all the way I say use silk organza, like kamikat says. It's got a really nice body to it, especially for tailoring.

 

[kamikat]

Thanks for the links, Laughing Magpie. It sounds like silk is the way to go. Have you worn your slip in hot weather yet? The only thing putting me off of silk is the thought of it sticking to my skin in the middle of August.