Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Laura Chase]

Ladies I found this dress today, it cost next to nothing. But the problem is it's got small holes all over the place. Is it possible to fix this at all? They aren't very noticeable when I wear it with a brown slip under, but if there is a way to repair them, I would like to do so.

I tried to repair another dress on my own and ended up kinda ruining it, so I thought I should ask for some advice this time around.

Click to see the images larger.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

I've heared silk is terribly hard. Is that true of everything silk and are different weaves, chiffon, charmeuse etc equally difficult?

Nope! Different weaves behave very differently. The toughest-to-sew (and tough to cut) silks are charmeuse, chiffon, georgette, and (to some degree) china silk/habotai. Basically, anything slippery, sheer, and shiny is going to be hard for a beginner. Silk, by its nature, is a little more fluid than other fibers no matter what the weave, but that doesn't mean it's impossible for a dedicated beginner. For instance, silk dupioni takes a lot of care and isn't something I'd suggest to a brand-new beginner, because it frays so easily and often needs to be underlined, but it's easy to cut and won't slide around when sewing. I think some silk suitings would be easier to sew, too.

For some more info on specific fabric weaves and fibers, see this list.

I'm sewing some french knickers and I want to have silk ones (of course!) but maybe it should wait till I'm more skilled. And what should I use for all patterns made for silk materials?

For french knickers, I bet you'll want one of the slippery silks. I'd suggest waiting on that until you have a more experience. If you're making them in another fabric, maybe the second pair could be silk?

For patterns, it just depends on the weave (see above). Always take a look at the list of recommended fabrics on the back of the pattern. A pattern calling for chiffon will work with any type of chiffon - silk, polyester, etc. - but won't work with a heavy silk twill.

I also want to sew a coat and I'm thinking it'll be troublesome because the fabrics will be so thick. An suggestions what to think of?

I've just started my sewingclass today and I have to buy more patterns and fabrics and I find it hard to decide what to buy, especially since I have to buy fabrics online. Any tips or no-no's will be grately appreciated!

For beginning projects, you want stable, non-slippery, non-problem-causing woven fabrics. This does *not* mean boring; there are prints and embroidered fabrics galore, and some interesting weaves (like herringbone and houndstooth). It really depends on what you're sewing (blouses or skirts?) as to what you want, but most cottons will work for you. I'm partial to linen/rayon blends. Medium-weight linen also works, but it's usually more expensive for a first attempt.

Try to avoid charmeuse, satin, chiffon, georgette, crepe, and anything polyester. Also avoid huge prints, stripes, and plaids - anything that requires matching.

It doesn't take long to get into the swing of things, and then you'll be able to struggle with difficult fabrics to your heart's content. I know it didn't take me long before I was attempting all sorts of things that I technically Shouldn't Have Been Doing as a beginner.

Oh, and see if you can find a copy of The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. It's well worth your money. It really doesn't matter if it's the new edition or an older copy - it's pretty much all the same. It has instructions for sewing with different kinds of fabrics, laying out patterns, basic fitting tips, and instructions on all sorts of different techniques.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Ladies I found this dress today, it cost next to nothing. But the problem is it's got small holes all over the place. Is it possible to fix this at all? They aren't very noticeable when I wear it with a brown slip under, but if there is a way to repair them, I would like to do so.

Is that a wool dress? Those look like moth holes, which are just about impossible (so far as I know) to repair. There are some places that do expensive re-weaving. If they aren't too visible when you wear the slip, I'd count yourself lucky.

Moths are one species I don't think I'd mind driving into semi-extinction.

 

[Laura Chase]

Is that a wool dress? Those look like moth holes, which are just about impossible (so far as I know) to repair. There are some places that do expensive re-weaving. If they aren't too visible when you wear the slip, I'd count yourself lucky.

Moths are one species I don't think I'd mind driving into semi-extinction.

They are moth holes, yes. It's impossible to mend them so they are invisible, yes, but I'm also just looking for a way to close the holes so that they at least don't become bigger. Damage control. if you will.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

They are moth holes, yes. It's impossible to mend them so they are invisible, yes, but I'm also just looking for a way to close the holes so that they at least don't become bigger. Damage control. if you will.

I see. Hrm. I'm afraid I have no clue, then!

 

[Mary]

Thanks you ever so much, StoreRoadLady!!:eusa_clap

I've read about different weaves before, but there hasn't been much info on how difficult or easy they are to make into clothes. This really helps! Unfortunately I seem to be partial to all the tricky ones. :eusa_doh: But that time will come!

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Unfortunately I seem to be partial to all the tricky ones. :eusa_doh: But that time will come!

Glad I could help a little! And I know what you mean about loving tricky fabrics. *sigh* I do have to say, if you're dedicated about it, you can work with just about anything once you have the basic principles down. Sure, you'll tear your hair out, but you'll get to work with the pretty. lol

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

I have an old sewing/housewife book, probably from the 40s, in which it says that all silk lingerie should have all seams sewn by hand, even the side seams, because hand sewing is elastic as opposed to machine sewn seams.
The book also goes on about how French women always sew their lingerie by hand and that's what makes French silk lingerie so exquisite, and that we Scandinavian women should aspire to become as chic as them!

I'm thinking that a pair of knickers wouldn't require that much hand sewing, but for an entire slip ... geez that's a lot of work.

 

[Lady Day]

Well, thats the beauty of a zig zag stitch It gives some stretch to a seam, while maintaing the garment's construction.

You COULD hand sew it, sure. It would take a while but why would you want to? This is where I tout modern sewing machines, thank you for the zig zag stitch!

LD

 

[Lady Day]

Suggestions ladies

This will be my next dress (the blue number on the right), but Im looking for some interesting material to make it with. The package had no suggestions :rage: I want a solid color, but am unsure as to what type of fabric.

What would you ladies advise?

LD

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Fabric suggestions

I picture it in crepe. That's a great pattern!

 

[Joie DeVive]

Ok, I have a question. This weekend I picked up a box of buttons at an estate sale. In the box was an assortment of sewing items, and a few oddball items (a nail file, a pocket knife and a small padlock to name a few). There was an item which I can't identify. It looks like a tiny metal funnel (about 3/4" in diameter) with a longish spout (maybe 1/2"). It says made in France on it, but that's it. Any idea what this baby is??

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

This will be my next dress (the blue number on the right), but Im looking for some interesting material to make it with. The package had no suggestions I want a solid color, but am unsure as to what type of fabric.

Crepe? Or a silk or silk/wool suiting (nothing too heavy)? I'm almost thinking wool gabardine, because you want those nice diagonal buttoned edges to stay crisp.

I'm totally envious of the pattern.

 

[Lady Day]

I actually didn't like the pattern to begin with. I almost sold it a few times. Its grown on me, and Ive found myself thinking about it a lot.

I was thinking wool gabardine as well, but I might have a go at crepe. I dont know! :eusa_doh:

LD

 

[CherryRed]

Ok, I have a question. This weekend I picked up a box of buttons at an estate sale. In the box was an assortment of sewing items, and a few oddball items (a nail file, a pocket knife and a small padlock to name a few). There was an item which I can't identify. It looks like a tiny metal funnel (about 3/4" in diameter) with a longish spout (maybe 1/2"). It says made in France on it, but that's it. Any idea what this baby is??

Got a picture of it?

 

[MarieAnne]

I'm working on a blouse that calls for 'stiffening' the shoulder with strips of taffeta (or something else stiff.) Has anyone done this before? What do you use and how do you attach it to the shoulder? It looks like it's supposed to overlap into the sleeve a tiny bit. And how do you attach it to the shirt without having the stitches visible on the outside?


Also, I resized the pattern and I figured out a low hassle way to do this! I followed these guidelines but I found a short cut!
http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/resizepattern.htm

I wanted to increase to the next size so I decided to add 1.5" to each side seam, or 3/4" to bodice front half, and bodice back half. I laid my pattern piece on the tracing paper, and started tracing on a straight edge (either center front or center back.) I traced until I got to the middle of the neckline (on both lower and top edge of the pattern); this isn't far at all. I shifted my pattern 5/16" from the straight edge making sure the edges stay perfectly parallel. I kept tracing -roughly from where I left off- to the middle of the shoulder, and I shifted again but this time only 2/16". Now the distance between the straight edge I traced and the actual edge of the pattern is 7/16". I traced down to the bottom of the armhole and shifted the pattern again another 5/16". Now the straight edge I traced is 3/4" from the edge of the pattern piece. I finished tracing normally and smoothed out the lines.

My original vintage pattern is intact, and I've only had to trace it once!:eusa_clap It was my first time resizing a pattern so I will definitely be making a muslin to make sure everthing is okay. I'll let you know how it fits!

 

[LelaViavonie]

THats a great Link!
Thanks for sharing..I need all the help I can get on resizing... Luckily.. I found a pattern that is just my size so the first dress will be easy

 

[Mary]

What do you mean? I only need to zig zag?! Doesn't every machine have that nowadays or is it a special zig zag?

Well, thats the beauty of a zig zag stitch It gives some stretch to a seam, while maintaing the garment's construction.

You COULD hand sew it, sure. It would take a while but why would you want to? This is where I tout modern sewing machines, thank you for the zig zag stitch!

LD

 

[Rachael]

What do you mean? I only need to zig zag?! Doesn't every machine have that nowadays or is it a special zig zag?

just use a narrow width zigzag and it will give stretch. if you do a small sample stitch then pull on the fabric, you will see how the zigzag gives with the fabric and looks like it was a straight stitch. The wider the zigzag, the more give. You can also play with the length until you get the stitch you want. I keep a log of settings (stitch, width, length, tension) by my machine so I don't have to repeat my experiments.

 

[CherryRed]

I'm working on a blouse that calls for 'stiffening' the shoulder with strips of taffeta (or something else stiff.) Has anyone done this before? What do you use and how do you attach it to the shoulder? It looks like it's supposed to overlap into the sleeve a tiny bit. And how do you attach it to the shirt without having the stitches visible on the outside?

Are you referring to a little piece in the top of a sleeve, almost like a little ruffle? If so I would imagine you gather it with your sleeve and include it in the seam when you put it in the armhole. I have seen dresses with puffed sleeves that have this in the top to keep the "puffs".