Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Honey Doll]

Copying existing clothes

Ladies

I posted about this great tutorial from Threads on another thread and thought it might be helpful to have here as well. I'm currently attempting to make my own patterns from some of my more loved vintage pieces. I'm drafting one for a great one piece chemise now. I'll post pics of the original and my copy once I'm done.

HTH someone!

Another thought for patterns....

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Another idea is to make a pattern, not by taking an existing piece apart, but by coping the garment while maintaining it whole. You can do this by lying the garment flat, pinning it to trace paper and using a pin to poke holes down the length of the seam line. If there are darts, mark them. After that remove the garment and with a pen, connect the dots and add seam allowances. Where you have darts, cut your paper pattern and spread it out the width of the fabric uptake in the original dart, then trace out again on your muslin. I'm reproducing a 40s chemise this way right now and it is very doable. I should think trousers would be fairly straight forward.

There was a good detailed pic by pic instruction on the Threads site.....hmmmm....

Try here

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00220.asp

Honey Doll

 

[Mary]

Hi gang!

I baught this at a fleamarket. I think it's forties but it's a bit plastic and actually has some overlock-typed stiching inside but glassbuttons. Oh this is fftopic:

Now my question. I think it looks to big on me. How should it fit? It has a straight fit but how much loose fabric should there be and where should the arms start.

and how do you tie a goodlooking bow??

M

 

[dollydaydream]

I think it looks fine. Tucked into your skirt would e best, but that is my opinion. As for the bow, I always have trouble with that myself lol

 

[Mary]

Yeah this time I didn't bother trying but I can stand there for a looong time.

Maybe it doesn't show in the pictures but if you look at the first photo the arm slopes a bit on my shoulder fourthest back. But I've been thinking the same thing, that it's my modern eyes that makes me think it's to big. Modern clothes arms start at the collarbone more or less but this starts at the arm!

M

 

[dollydaydream]

Humm, it's kinda hard to tell. I think 40s pouffy sleevs like this one, the 'pouff' starts at the end of the shoulder. Either that or all my blouses are too big for me. I shall have a look at the blouse patterns I have yes. Though I'm sure someone round here will know for sure!

 

[Sunny]

That looks rather like an early 1980s blouse, which definitely mimicked the 1940s. The shoulder seam should be on the point of the shoulder, although different periods had different emphasis. A broader shoulder line was in favor in the 1940s (and therefore 1980s), so shoulders were often cut wider and shaped with pads. Are there shoulder pads in it? The '80s were the day of HUGE shoulder pads, so lots of times they've been removed in the intervening years. But having no shoulder pads at all looks just as strange. There should be something there to give a smooth line, even if it's only a thin or 1/2" pad.

As for tying a bow - just experiment! Or googling "tying a bow." There are different kinds of bows for lots of uses, and there are a couple tips for good bows that don't twist or hang crooked.

 

[Mary]

Thanks Dolly and Sunny!

I googled point of the shoulder and understood it to be where the collarbone attaches to the shoulders so I'll try to move the arms on the blouse if it doesn't look better with some pads. There's no pads now but I'm thinking if I put some in I will need the extra fabric.

Sunny do I understand it correctly that the arm/shoulder seam is not on the point of the shoulder when there's pads involved but is further out so the arm can fall straight from the pad?

Now I'll practice some bows from the internet!

M

That looks rather like an early 1980s blouse, which definitely mimicked the 1940s. The shoulder seam should be on the point of the shoulder, although different periods had different emphasis. A broader shoulder line was in favor in the 1940s (and therefore 1980s), so shoulders were often cut wider and shaped with pads. Are there shoulder pads in it? The '80s were the day of HUGE shoulder pads, so lots of times they've been removed in the intervening years. But having no shoulder pads at all looks just as strange. There should be something there to give a smooth line, even if it's only a thin or 1/2" pad.

As for tying a bow - just experiment! Or googling "tying a bow." There are different kinds of bows for lots of uses, and there are a couple tips for good bows that don't twist or hang crooked.

 

[Mary]

And Dolly I just came to think of something. I don't know what's wrong with your machine but it may be the tread if you use cheap tread. In "my" shop that is what causing most problems, so don't buy any tread in grocerystores or such places. Just a thought.

 

[Rachael]

don't buy any tread in grocerystores or such places. Just a thought.

yes, cheap thread can gunk up the works. all thread has slubs ( those annoying bumps in the thread) but cheaper thread has more, and they tend to catch on the mechanisms, which changes the tension intermittently.

I only use Coats & Clark or Gutermanns. My local dry goods stores don't carry Metrosene, but it is a very good brand. Nothing else should be used in a sewing machine.

Also, make sure you are using bobbins designed for your machine. I bought a box of bobbins that looked just like the ones that came with my machine, but were a "really good deal". Until I realized that they weren't spinning in the bobbin compartment correctly and making my upper thread break that is. I threw them away. Paying for name brand bobbins is cheaper than a service call.

 

[dollydaydream]

Thanks for your help!! I got a new machine at the weekend & it's great. I think that it was just an old old machine, and of course, the older the machine, the more expensive it is to have serviced

I will pay more attention to the kinds of thread & bobbins I use too. It's great having people who can help!!

 

[Miss 1929]

Such a pretty blouse!

Hi gang!

I baught this at a fleamarket. I think it's forties but it's a bit plastic and actually has some overlock-typed stiching inside but glassbuttons. Oh this is fftopic:

Now my question. I think it looks to big on me. How should it fit? It has a straight fit but how much loose fabric should there be and where should the arms start.

and how do you tie a goodlooking bow??

M

I would say you need to leave at least a couple of inches of play under the arms so that you can raise your arms without stressing the vintage material. It is probably supposed to be blousey, so maybe no fitting at all - when tucked in to a skirt or pants it will narrow down at the waist, This sort of blouse is not meant to be worn untucked, or it would have a more finished bottom edge.

And here's a good bow trick!

Tie the parts in a regular half knot as if tying your shoe.
Then, instead of making one loop and wrapping the other end around it and pushing through, make a loop out of each end, and then tie those in a half knot!
It will not only be symmetrical as to the ends length, but the ends will both be on the bottom of the bow, and the loops on top, not one on bottom, one on top.
It works great on laced shoes too. Try it!

 

[Sunny]

Sunny do I understand it correctly that the arm/shoulder seam is not on the point of the shoulder when there's pads involved but is further out so the arm can fall straight from the pad?
M

Actually, the other way around. When the shoulder seam is off the shoulder, then you'll have to have pads to get the right look. The cut and design of the shirt come first; the shape and height of the pad depend on the cut, and on the desired look.

If you're doing 1850s or 1860s, an extra-wide or dropped armseye seam is a crucial design element, giving the impression of sloping shoulders. Absolutely no shoulder pads in that case.

 

[sixsexsix]

I purchased some nice large-print red and white checkered fabric recently (think picnic table cloth) and was trying to think of things I could sew with it? I don't really want to look like I am wearing a tablecloth, but the fabric is so nice I want to use it. I probably got about 3 meters worth...any suggestions?

looks like this, but is not heavy tea-towel material

 

[Miss 1929]

Go bias!

I purchased some nice large-print red and white checkered fabric recently (think picnic table cloth) and was trying to think of things I could sew with it? I don't really want to look like I am wearing a tablecloth, but the fabric is so nice I want to use it. I probably got about 3 meters worth...any suggestions?

looks like this, but is not heavy tea-towel material

If you put it on the diagonal to your body, it will be more flattering and very 30s! They did a lot of diagonal plaids.

 

[Snookie]

Sixsexsix, use a solid contrast to minimize the "picnic" look. A solid-colored collar, waist cincher, belt, or hem contrast will make the ensemble more "grounded" and sophisticated. Or do a blouse/skirt combo: make one piece with your plaid, the other should be solid, and accessorize on top with whatever you have on bottom (ex.>Plaid skirt, solid blouse, and make a plaid bow to wear as a brooch or in your hair.) Any extra fabric can be used as lining for a jacket to match the outfit.

These ideas will also work well with Miss 1929's bias suggestion, too.

Or make a Pendleton style jacket, love those.

 

[Miss 1929]

Sewus Interruptus

I have a nice, but frustrating situation!
I cut out the muslin for this dress and jacket back in the fall, and never had time to proceed until now:

And I put together the bodice, to discover that since I cut it out, I have lost about 6 inches all around (I actually braved the scale, I am down 15 pounds since New years! I had no idea!)! Which is swell, except that now, I only have patterns way too small and way too big for me!

This one is problematic to reduce in size (for a novice like me) as it needs to be smaller both directions, or the point of the yoke ends up below my waist.

So I am cutting muslin #2 tonight and seeing if I can figure out how to take it in. I tried making it smaller before putting it together, that failed miserably, so this time I am going to put it together in the size it is, put it on, make tucks and marks, take it apart, use that tucked and marked one to cut musline #3 and see if it will work.

So instead of having to do one muslin, I have to do three total...
But thank goodness I didn't blithely cut into my vintage fabric!
It's going to be navy and pale blue.

 

[Honey Doll]

Miss 1929

That's exactly how I would proceed. You already have the muslin cut. Put it on and tuck and dart. If your talking a couple inches on each of your measurements, this way will probably be easier than doing a total redraft.

Congrats on the new figure! The pattern is lovely!

Honey Doll

 

[Miss Neecerie]

And I put together the bodice, to discover that since I cut it out, I have lost about 6 inches all around (I actually braved the scale, I am down 15 pounds since New years! I had no idea!)! Which is swell, except that now, I only have patterns way too small and way too big for me!

You can just send all the -too big- ones right down to me....lol

 

[Miss 1929]

You can just send all the -too big- ones right down to me....lol

Most of them are going over to live at Theresa La Quey's house this afternoon, as she will then be able to help me adjust any I still really desire, but...I may have a perfect thing for you!

PM me your address and measurements. I will keep them secret!

And, ladies, I have a slew of 50s patterns (not my era at all) that will be going up in the Classifieds soon...

And the 2nd muslin worked well. I basically took it in on the center front and back fold everywhere, that way the pointy stuff still matches up and the yoke and neckline raised up (I am lowering the neckline a bit though, it was matronly). Then I have to move the tucks and darts outward, and a minor adjustment to the front shoulder seam, and voila!
I still have to do the same to the skirt of the dress and the jacket.
So much easier when the pattern is really ones size!

EDIT: I decided to re-draft after all. And it looks great so far. I also checked and had EXACTLY the right amount of my vintage fabric...
Dyed the fabric navy for the dark parts...
After much ironing (like, all DAY in the heat and having to steam it out with vinegar to get the set in wrinkles out!). discovered that the dye job came out uneven due to the pot being too small. Now I must go on the hunt for more navy blue dye... I have been buying all of it laterly between this project and my table linens...

Oy.

 

[sixsexsix]

awesome, i love 50s stuff