Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[ShooShooBaby]

I know that when reading the measurements for a garment (on ebay for example) and it says "36 inch bust" it would be most suited for a lady with a 34-35 inch bust so that it isn't super tight and uncomfortable.

However, with a pattern for a 36 inch bust, is it refering to the lady's measurements, or to the finished garment, which would most likely be larger than 36 inches?

I always assumed it was for a lady with a 36 inch bust with a finished size slightly larger.

goldleaf, i know in my vintage knitting patterns if the size is "36" then it's supposed to fit someone who has a 34-inch bust. i'm pretty sure that my vintage patterns are the same way.

i know i've seen an article on either getcrafty.com or craftster that was all tips for vintage sewing, but now i can't find it. i'm pretty sure it covered stuff like this. anyone have a link to it?

 

[Snookie]

The post by NicolettaRose about her dress fit got me thinking.

I know that when reading the measurements for a garment (on ebay for example) and it says "36 inch bust" it would be most suited for a lady with a 34-35 inch bust so that it isn't super tight and uncomfortable.

However, with a pattern for a 36 inch bust, is it refering to the lady's measurements, or to the finished garment, which would most likely be larger than 36 inches?

I always assumed it was for a lady with a 36 inch bust with a finished size slightly larger.

Elaina explained it perfectly, how patterns already include ease. I don't even like the full amount of ease in vintage patterns (and modern ones are even worse!). I usually make clothes at least one size smaller than listed, in my case I look for 32" bust patterns even though I'm 35". Personal preference counts a lot here, so keep in mind if you usually like clothes to be a slim fit or if you like them a little looser.

 

[Elaina]

Also bear in mind that patterns are made for a B cup. If you're bigger, or smaller, you may need to go up or down a size, then keep the rest of the measurements.

All patterns, unless they say specifically "No wearing ease" have ease in them.

I generally go up a size and often will add another 5/8" to the seam allowance because I french seam the inside if I don't line it, but that's to accomodate my body, and my measurements aren't yours so it may or may not work, and then this is going to assume you guys are as anal about the inside being as pretty as the outside.

 

[Lauren]

Don't forget to check out the vintage size guidelines sticky I posted for vintage pattern and clothing sizings, too.

 

[Lady Day]

What would you do?

Ladies....question.

I have a Stop Stairing! Dress this one...

but the fabric is horrid. I like the cut and all, but I never wear it. Do you gals think I should take it apart and draft a pattern from it?

Thanks,

LD

 

[hotrod_elf]

If you don't wear it, I think so. However, Stop Staring dresses are expensive. Have you looked for a comparable patten? modern or vintage. If not then I would, put it back together and sell on the bay. I think you could find a pattern that matched, then sell the dress after your done, so you could use the dress for comparsion.

 

[Elaina]

LD:

Can you make a pattern without tearing it apart?

 

[Lady Day]

LD:

Can you make a pattern without tearing it apart?

Well I could make a pattern without tearing the dress apart, but Id have to do a lot of trial and error. Im not to greatest at making a pattern from a finished garment.

The dress was a clearance gown I got for $45. I know!

So its loss isnt too huge a deal. That and I dont know anyone who would buy it (I dont eBay really).



LD

 

[Kim_B]

*drools* ummm...what was the question? Oh, right - taking the dress *gulp* apart to make a pattern... I have no idea.

I am just now learning to sew with my machine. Haven't mastered anything fantabulous just yet...working on making a leopard print clutch/wallet type thing. Made a practice one out of scrap fabric and it turned out alright - I found I have issues in the measuring/cutting department - everything turns out uneven (I'm not using a pattern, so that could be why...but no matter how many times I measure, measure again, measure yet again and cut, it is always a tiny bit short...)

I do have one quick question though - while I'm sewing I notice that the thread often comes away from the needle - am I threading it incorrectly? I followed the instructions in my manual, and was doing fine until it just popped out...and now, every so often it keeps popping out of the needle...is this odd, or a normal occurrence?

 

[Elaina]

To clarify, you're starting to sew along and then all of a sudden, the thread's no longer in the needle going into the material, right?

If so, it sounds like you're no leaving enough of a "tail". Pull about 4"of thread through the needle and try that. If it's still doing it, even with a longer thread tail, grab the top and bobbin thread when you start the seam, and get your stitches tacked down before lettng go (forward, reverse, forward stitching) and it should stop it. At least this is usually what causes it for me.

As to the unevenness, try making a pattern with a ruler on standard paper (newsprint, computer, notebook).

 

[Kim_B]

To clarify, you're starting to sew along and then all of a sudden, the thread's no longer in the needle going into the material, right?

If so, it sounds like you're no leaving enough of a "tail". Pull about 4"of thread through the needle and try that. If it's still doing it, even with a longer thread tail, grab the top and bobbin thread when you start the seam, and get your stitches tacked down before letting go (forward, reverse, forward stitching) and it should stop it. At least this is usually what causes it for me.

As to the unevenness, try making a pattern with a ruler on standard paper (newsprint, computer, notebook).

Yep, that's exactly what is happening. I wasn't sure if I had something wrong when I threaded it...some times those manuals are hard to follow (either that or I'm just dense)!

You ladies are so wonderful for all your helpful advice! I just wanna give y'all a big hug!!

 

[Elaina]

Nope, you can tell we all have been there before. It's just much easier if someone can say "try a, b or c" instead of going crazy trying to figure it out on your own.

 

[goldwyn girl]

Brocade

Has anyone made anything recently from asian brocade fabric? I made a frock and the fabric seperated at the seams even where it was lined. I was very disapointed and even though I see lots of lovely fabric I'm hesitant to use it again. Any suggestiosns would be greatly appreciated

 

[Elaina]

Last thing I made was an ugly coat in brocade. Either use pinking shears or silk shears on the seams and also use fray check on the seams. Should stop it if you don't have access to a serger.

 

[Annalai]

How often do you change the needle?
I recently had problem with my sewing machine with the thread and stitches and the reason probably was an old wrong dull needle and not the fabric or the thread.
I was told the average lifespann for a needle is about 10 hours (sewingtime).
I was also told to stay away from cheap needles I had bought in the supermarket once when I run out from the better ones belonging to my machine they simple was too long for my machine this I could not see but the machine repair guy could.
Well I was suprised to learn all this. I did know I should use different needles for different fabrics etc. but not how important it was to change the needle so often as they suggest you do. Every time you start a new dress a new needle should be used. Well I only wanted to share this because it was new information for me.
I found this information.
http://sew-whats-new.com/CMS/content/view/189/46/

 

[RetroModelSari]

Thanks for the info. I´m a starter and I didn´t knew about that. My needle wasn´t that sharp anymore but I wasn´t sure if I HAVE to change it now or not since it still worked. But now that I know I´ll change the needles more regulary.

 

[hotrod_elf]

Thank you

I did not know any this. I guess they tell you this in sewing classes. I will changing my needle every project.

 

[Elaina]

I'm one of the world's worst at changing my needles, and I get mine from the dollar store (the guy gets sewing supplies in pretty much for 3 of us: oil, needles and standard 7" zippers).

When I sew any fine material, I change my needles and reuse the dull ones for knits, like ball points, although I have them too. I also tend to run them through a needle sharpner I have, which also prolongs the life, but the monet I have any trouble, I remove my thread, bobbin and needles, and chage the needle and rethread completely. (I generally don't have a lot of problems, between and cat and a kid I touch my needle points enough to know when they hurt, it's sharp enough.)

However, needles are like thread and material: the better you buy the better the finished garment will be. My needles are cheap, but they're decent needles, and I go through about 5 needles a week, on average.

FYI: A good rule of thumb is to oil your machine when you change your needle in sewing time.

 

[ShooShooBaby]

i had no idea how often needle changes should happen. this explains so much!

this is exactly why i' m signing up for a sewing class series at the adult ed center... i need to learn to do things correctly instead of fumbling through!

 

[Lady Day]

Well...

I change my needle per yardage of fabric that I sew a garment with. Generally per 15 yards of fabric, I swap out my needle. Now this also depends on what type of needle you are using for what type of fabric.

I find looser woven fabrics dont wreck the needles as much, but I also use needles at are designated for types of fabric (silk/silk light fabric needle etc). I also buy needles in bulk form the fabric store when they are on sale. Ill get about 10 for about $12. Not too bad IMO

Good rule of thumb, when you feel the needle 'pop' into the fabric, instead of gut/glide, its time to get a new needle.

I think as far as matianance of a machine, I tend to open the top from time to time (Around the neck of the machine) and clean all the lint around the parts. THat cna lead to extra heat, which can dry out the gears and also clog the machine.

But I guess it varies on your useage, and the types of fabrics you use.


LD