Save Saville Row!

[MisterCairo]

Revenge perhaps for the "British Invasion" of the 60s?

My favourite line from this:

Will a stitch in time save its heritage? ‘We’ve
been here since the 1700s so there is a great deal to protect,’ one of the
tailors said. ‘I don’t think anyone objects to moving forward but a chain store
selling crappy clothes to ghastly people isn’t really the direction in which we
should be travelling.’




http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...childrens-shop-home-Beatles-record-label.html

 

[Pompidou]

I have first hand experience, in the US, that is, with the difficulties in opening a new business in a historic district of any sort. Even after my cafe finally found such a location and moved into it, we've spent the last three months negotiating what we're allowed to do with it. These streets are insanely regulated - wasted way more money than I'd have liked to make the town happy. I sympathize with A&F. That said, they'll do well in any location, so I question the logic of picking a needless fight.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Based on your experience I can understand that. But A&F are big enough to survive elsewhere. I guess your cafe project means a lot for you. A&F don't have the same status.

 

[Shangas]

This battle has been going on for ages. I remember reading about it in the news last year.

I agree. A&F are a big enough company. Why the hell they feel they have to mooch off of a respected street such as Savile Row, is beyond me. And it cheapens the name of SR, as well. It's been the cornerstone of British bespoke tailoring for nearly 300 years now.

They should relocate to somewhere else, and leave Savile Row in peace.

 

[Edward]

I think they're already there now? Old thread. Don't know the current state of play - I don't wander the row much, to be honest - I'll never be able to afford anything there. Jermyn Street is more my speed.

 

[MisterCairo]

I think they're already there now? Old thread. Don't know the current state of play - I don't wander the row much, to be honest - I'll never be able to afford anything there. Jermyn Street is more my speed.

I came across the article by accident last week. The linked-to page says it was "updated" March 6, 2012, but I have no idea when the article first appeared.

I have nothing against A&F, to each their own, but I do think there is an element of provocation to opening a store like that in a location like that. I mean, bare chested men and dancing girls for a store opening may attract a certain clientel, but why on Saville Row?

 

[Edward]

They were obviously seeking some of the reflected glory of the Row, but I'm not sure why. I'd have thought their target audience isn't aware of Saville Row, much less holds it in high esteem. [huh]

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Maybe because they would be the cheapest shop on the street and could catch people who just went window shopping out of their league.

 

[herringbonekid]

They were obviously seeking some of the reflected glory of the Row, but I'm not sure why.

well, Savile Row is a pretty prestigious address, but the decision makers at A&F must be living on another planet if they thought they would be warmly welcomed into such an exclusive club.

 

[Shangas]

well, Savile Row is a pretty prestigious address, but the decision makers at A&F must be living on another planet if they thought they would be warmly welcomed into such an exclusive club.

I absolutely agree. To bring jeans and male models into the middle of Savile Row? You know that won't turn out well. I think Savile Row has a certain reputation, and it's that reputation and tradition that they're trying to preserve.

A lot of places in London are famous for many things. Smithfield is famous for butcheries. Fleet Street was famous for newspapers. Harley Street is famous for physicians and surgeons. Savile Row is famous for bespoke tailoring. And they don't want that tarnished by some upstart teenager of a clothing brand like A&F coming in and mucking up their style.

I really think they misinterpreted how they'd be received around the West End.

If Ed's right, and they're trying to bask in the glory of SR, then it's obvious that they don't have enough of their own glory. And I think they should be focusing on why THAT is, instead of trying to mooch off of someone else.

 

[MisterCairo]

Maybe because they would be the cheapest shop on the street and could catch people who just went window shopping out of their league.

I doubt that anyone "window shopping" in Saville Row will think to themselves "Hmmmm, I don't have 2000 pounds or more for a bespoke suit, so I'll drop 80 on a pair of jeans at A&F instead"!

 

[Edward]

I absolutely agree. To bring jeans and male models into the middle of Savile Row? You know that won't turn out well. I think Savile Row has a certain reputation, and it's that reputation and tradition that they're trying to preserve.

A lot of places in London are famous for many things. Smithfield is famous for butcheries. Fleet Street was famous for newspapers. Harley Street is famous for physicians and surgeons. Savile Row is famous for bespoke tailoring. And they don't want that tarnished by some upstart teenager of a clothing brand like A&F coming in and mucking up their style.

I really think they misinterpreted how they'd be received around the West End.

If Ed's right, and they're trying to bask in the glory of SR, then it's obvious that they don't have enough of their own glory. And I think they should be focusing on why THAT is, instead of trying to mooch off of someone else.

I can only assume they see it as a prestigious address for "clothes". But yes, it is a bit like setting up a bespoke tailoring business i the middle of Camden Market....

 

[Haversack]

I rather think that 'mooching off the name' comes second nature to the current holders of the name Abercrombie & Fitch...

 

[MisterCairo]

I rather think that 'mooching off the name' comes second nature to the current holders of the name Abercrombie & Fitch...

:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

 

[Edward]

I can't claim to be much aware of their history, but I gather they were once a bit more than an overpriced version of the Gap. Nice to see The Chap involved in this activism. Unfortunately it has been misread or misrepresented by some as snobbery, but in reality the very point of the objection to A&F expanding into Saville Row with its children's store (they claim on their website that the current store is on Savile Row - in point of fact it is not, it is on the next street round the corner) is the Row's uniqueness. There are many other streets in London eminently suited to an outlet such as A&F. To permit such an entity to encroach onto SAvile Row will, however, be the beginning of the end: how much longer before it resembles merely another Oxford Street? To see the end result of what can happen to the likes of this, one need only look to Carnaby Street. Portobello Road is perched at the beginning of such a curve, with All Saints and the likes moving in. I have no objection to the likes of A&F setting up in the general marketplace, but I do strongly believe in protectionism if it is what is necessary to prevent yet another once-unique corner of London from turning into The Same High Street, Anywhere.

 

[MisterCairo]

Edward, agreed. Again, A&F has its place, but why they feel the need to make that place Saville Row is beyond comprehension. If nothing else, as mentioned above by several, their market can't possibly be found there but is probably to be found elsewhere where no one will object (except, perhaps, direct actual competition already in situ).

 

[herringbonekid]

...how much longer before it resembles merely another Oxford Street?

perhaps not Oxford street (the horror) but certainly Old Bond street which is only a stone's throw away and where shops like Ralph Lauren and Prada are.

thing is, the Row has already changed a lot in the last ten years; many of the tailors like Norton and Sons (E Tautz), Kilgour and Richard James have ready-to-wear right at the front of their stores which look more like chic designer boutiques than a traditional tailor's. then at the other end of the Row you have B Store, an edgy designer label shop which has been there for a few years. but you've probably read the articles about places like Anderson and Sheppard who have a much less intimidating front than they used to, and have talked about how they have had to change to accomodate their new younger, 'cooler' clients.

i'm not saying i approve of any of the above, and i certainly think the A&F move is ill thought out, but times change (sadly for change-o-phobes like me).

 

[MisterCairo]

Time never changes for me. It's always June 3rd, 1937. The clothes are great and gas is really cheap. I'm a little worried about the situation in Europe, but hey, how many wars can those people possibly start?

 

[Pompidou]

Does England have precedent for the sort of protectionism that would keep A&F off Saville? I've only spent ten weeks in England, but I got the impression they operate a lot like the states, in that they have to follow the rules and allow anything the law allows. Granted, the UK is huge on tradition, so maybe there is a law for this. I'm personally indifferent to the results. Progress is progress, and times change, but I am a history buff, so it'd be cool if they could preserve the street a little longer. The best case is that A&F graciously backs down, the community allows them to save face - in that the press puts a good spin on it as thanks, and this standoff is postponed for another day.

 

[Edward]

I'm not aware of such zoning laws in England (though it's not my area by a long stretch). There are rules governing Conservation Areas, if the Row fell within one of those, but that relates only to preserving external appearances - I've seen a McDonalds set up in a Conservation Area. There was at least at one time a rule built into any lease on Savile Row premises that a certain proportion of the premises had to be used for a workshop, i.e. the actual tailoring. No idea whether that's still in place.... and of course as the building in question has formerly been offices, I don't think those rules apply to it in particular any longer.