Replacement Zipper for Freewheelers Centinela

[ChienChilla]

Hi everyone. The zipper tape of my FW Centinela has a tear. I’ve asked a few local tailors and leather repair specialists, and they all said it’ll need to be replaced.

My concern is that replacing a zipper seems very invasive. FW themselves do not do any repairs, and I don’t want to leave the job to just anyone. Does anyone here have a recommendation for a tailor (preferably in the US) that can replace the zipper on FW jacket and would not botch it? I’m guessing it’s a long shot to find someone who’d be able to sew it back the way FW does it, but I’d like to at least find someone that would do a decent job. And maybe preserve as much of the Macy’s as possible. A few of the local tailors told me that they might have to cut away the circular things (don’t know what they’re called) to get to the zipper. See pictures for the year and the aforementioned “circular things”.

Please let me know if you can recommend someone. I’m willing to ship, and I can source a replacement zipper. Thank you.

 

[tmitchell59]

The "circular" things are called grommets in this zipper. This is an imitation of the original zipper style for this jacket. This zipper style was popular from the mid to late 1930s. typically called a grommet zipper. these are probably branded Waldes?

I believe you can get this in Japan. You would only need the female (pull) side of the zipper replaced. You would have the buy the correct length. The fabric can be dyed to match.

The broken zipper including grommets would need to be removed.

I doubt they understand or have even encountered a zipper like this. The full assembly has to be replaced on the female side.

 

[tmitchell59]

Try Dena at Great Leathers in Illinois. She has worked on all manner of vintage leather jackets.

 

[ChienChilla]

Try Dena at Great Leathers in Illinois. She has worked on all manner of vintage leather jackets.

Thank you! I’ll reach out to her.

 

[AeroFan_07]

@iknowleather - this is also Dena and she is on here from time to time.

 

[Monitor]

This reminds me why I don't wear expensive things no more.

Technically, you could try to mend the rip back together but it's a very difficult thing to do. Difficult but worthwhile as sending the jacket to some leather repair shop wouldn't be an option, if this was my jacket on the line here.
As @tmitchell59 stated, first you'd need to source the exact same type of zipper & then find someone who'll take the time to match the original stitch holes... Which is so tedious and time consuming that I doubt anyone'd take it on as a project.

My advice is to not look for the regular (leather) tailors as all they're going to tell you is that the zipper must be replaced, but to find someone who is making costumes for movies, professional cosplay and such things. Someone who will be able to re-stitch the rip back together. There's a method to it, kind of like kaketsugi, so surgical precision and infinite patience is required, but on a jacket that's as valuable as this one, it's worth it.

Whatever you do, don't let anyone replace anything until you've no other options!

 

[ChienChilla]

Thank you @tmitchell59 @AeroFan_07 @Monitor! FW uses Whizzer branded zippers, but I found a place in Japan that has Waldes replacement zippers. They’re currently out of stock, but they said they’ll notify me once they’re back in stock (should be a couple weeks). I am in no rush and will certainly taking my time to find the right person for the job.

 

[ChienChilla]

@Monitor do you have any resources on how to mend the tear?

 

[AeroFan_07]

@photo2u -- Is a local expert and may have an idea on how to make these repairs.

On edit, after looking at your photos more closely, I have never seen a zipper tape tear in the location shown below (generally on the other side at the insertion pin area)

 

[Monitor]

@Monitor do you have any resources on how to mend the tear?

It's a combination of techniques such as hand-weaving & leatherwork.

You'd need to open the stitches in the leather, right around the tear, as little as possible but enough to expose the zipper tape & make yourself enough space to re-weave the frayed fabric back together. Looking at the tear, the zipper tape appears to be made of cotton fabric which at least makes it a bit more flexible to work with but none the less meticulous. Anyway, once the tear in the tape is firmly mended, the leather panels are stitched back together using the original needle holes and that's, well, that.

It is the least invasive method & done right, the mend should be invisible but it is also the most demanding & time consuming way to go about it & you can imagine why it's something that no standard leather repair shop will do.
Which is why a hobbyist is your best bet.

 

[ChienChilla]

It's a combination of techniques such as hand-weaving & leatherwork.

You'd need to open the stitches in the leather, right around the tear, as little as possible but enough to expose the zipper tape & make yourself enough space to re-weave the frayed fabric back together. Looking at the tear, the zipper tape appears to be made of cotton fabric which at least makes it a bit more flexible to work with but none the less meticulous. Anyway, once the tear in the tape is firmly mended, the leather panels are stitched back together using the original needle holes and that's, well, that.

It is the least invasive method & done right, the mend should be invisible but it is also the most demanding & time consuming way to go about it & you can imagine why it's something that no standard leather repair shop will do.
Which is why a hobbyist is your best bet.

Thank you so much. I’ve been asking around and found a couple of people locally that might be willing to take on the job. Of course they’ll want to see it first, so I’ll keep my fingers crossed.

 

[photo2u]

The female side of the zipper needs to be replaced. Not an easy job, but it can be done. Dena is a person who can handle the repair. I have done it properly and reused the holes to give it a clean repair. If you have sewing skills, you can handle it yourself. Just take your time in removing all the layers. Good luck with your project.