Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

You guys are great, thanks!

Here are more details of my coat:

It's your standard pea coat design -- double breasted, single vent. There are six buttons visible on the front, with another button hidden under each collar. The color is navy of course, and the buttons look black to me. The coat is fully lined (something silky, dark navy/black in color). It's a beauty and in excellent condition!

The handwarmer pockets are lined in a tan corduroy. I've heard from a few sources that this was only done in the 40's.

The tag is located just below the right inside breast pocket. It's white cloth with black lettering, yellowed with age. The text is faded, but I can make out most of it:

COAT, MAN'S,
WOOL KERSEY
DSA 100-2739
Size 36R
100% WOOL

Hey Matt, I finally found my tag notes I made on these great old coats. You have a 1966 coat. I thought that was probably the year, but was reluctant to make a definitive statement until I located my notes. It just took me longer to find my notes than I thought.

The tag, as you described it, is substantially different from the tags that preceeded it. It is very similar to the tags that came after it, but it is unique in that it is the only year of that version of the tag that the date code is not included in the DSA or DLA contract number. Also, it is the next to last year that corduroy was used in the outside pockets. 1967 was the last corduroy year, and a white/gray cotton was used after that.

1966 was a good year for peacoats, and a bunch were made that year, in anticipation of the Vietnam buildup. My favorite year is the 1965 coat. The heading of the tag for that year simply reads: "US NAVY" I have one of those that my best buddy was issued in April, 1965. He gave it to me in November, 2005. I have only found one other 1965 coat in my size on e-bay, and I didn't bid enough on it. They seem to be relatively rare, but I will get another one of the these days. The coat I am wearing this morning is a 1967 coat. It is one of my favorites as that is the year I was in Vietnam.

Take care of your coat by keeping it in a moth protected closet, or keeping it in a moth protected garment bag, and having it cleaned once a year before you store it during warm weather. Cleaning removes particles of food and other matter that moths are drawn to. I have seen more coats damaged by moths than any other way. Reweaving can be done, but it is expensive and best avoided.

Put a heavy turtleneck on under your peacoat, turn the big collar up, and you are ready for the worst winter can throw at you. Enjoy it. I enjoy all 15 or so of the ones that I have!

If I knew how to post an avatar, I would submit a picture of me in one of my coats. Later, Peacoat.

 

[Wolf]

Speaking of Pea Coats, I have my original one that I was issued in 1983. Part way through my enlistment, they made us take the silver buttons off and put plastic black buttons. I'd like to switch it back, but have been unable to find the original buttons. Anyone know where I can look?

Thanks in advance

 

[SHARPETOYS]

I saw some metal buttons today obn Ebay. I don't know if they are correct or not. Look under Vintage pea coat buttons...

 

[Peacoat]

I found the buttons on e-bay and compared them to a 1980 coat I have that has the metal buttons. They are close but have a small eagle above a shield, and my buttons only have an eagle. Also the size is a little different. They are advertised as 1 1/4" and my original buttons are an inch. It would never hurt to get them and see how they work.

I looked this morning to see what I could find for you, and had no luck. A Navy Captain friend of mine is going to call the uniform clothing store in, I believe, Atlanta and see if they have any idea of where the metal buttons might be obtained. Since it is a discontinued item, I doubt there will be much success there, but it is worth a shot.

Do you remember what year you changed the buttons from silver to black plastic? I would like to have that information for my dating notes.

 

[Wolf]

I saw some metal buttons today obn Ebay. I don't know if they are correct or not. Look under Vintage pea coat buttons...

Thanks, I looked at them, they are different. I'm only missing a couple, got lost in the moves.

Peacoat, not exactly, I'm going to guess between 86 and 89, since I remember I was married, my wife sewed them on for me. And I wasn't married until 86 and got out of the Navy in 92.

 

[Matt Jones]

1966 was a good year for peacoats, and a bunch were made that year, in anticipation of the Vietnam buildup. My favorite year is the 1965 coat.

Thanks so much for the info! You say your favorite is the 1965... any particular reason? Or is it more about the nostalgia?

Put a heavy turtleneck on under your peacoat, turn the big collar up, and you are ready for the worst winter can throw at you.

Very true! My coat (all six pounds of it) has served me well this winter. It keeps out the chill better than anything I've ever had.

 

[feltfan]

US Navy Peacoat buttons?

Hi All,

Last winter I gave my SO a classic old Navy peacoat.
Atually, I think it might have been Coast Guard, but same thing, almost.
The material and stitching are truly incredible. Wish I
could find one to fit me. That felt-like wool is so dense-
nothing like the peacoats you see in stores today. And the
lining detail... I'm a convert.

Anyway, it was in nearly perfect condition (and cost next
to nothing at a thrift store), but it's missing a few buttons.

These are the classic 1 1/4" black buttons with the impression
of an anchor and rope.

Anyone know where I can find replacements? Preferably vintage,
but I'd accept newer ones, too.

Thanks!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Here in L.A., fabric stores sell those buttons. They're pretty much identical to the ones on your coat. Try the biggest fabric store in your area.

.

 

[The Wingnut]

http://www.militaryantiquesmuseum.com

I know for a fact there's a small drawer full of peacoat buttons there. I'm constantly popping the buttons off of mine, drives me nuts.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

...drives me nuts.

I'll show you what drives me nuts! AAAGGGHHH!

 

[feltfan]

http://www.militaryantiquesmuseum.com

I know for a fact there's a small drawer full of peacoat buttons there. I'm constantly popping the buttons off of mine, drives me nuts.

Man, that worked like a charm.
He's sending me a half dozen today.

THANKS!

Now if someone comes across one of these incredible
classic vintage peacoats in size 48 or 50, do let me know...


And Marc, that jacket is a crime. Can't you dye it black?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

And Marc, that jacket is a crime. Can't you dye it black?

It's not mine, thank goodness.

.

 

[feltfan]

The buttons arrived today. They appear identical,
but are a touch lighter than the originals on the coat.
Good enough for me- I'm thrilled. I do wonder if
button weight might be a way to date these coats.

Thanks again, Wingnut.

 

[The Wingnut]

You're welcome! Visit the shop sometime if you're in Petaluma.

 

[Peacoat]

The buttons arrived today. They appear identical,
but are a touch lighter than the originals on the coat.
Good enough for me- I'm thrilled. I do wonder if
button weight might be a way to date these coats.

Thanks again, Wingnut.

They can't be dated by the buttons, but I can date them with information from a tag and some other features on the coat. If you want a thick heavy wool, you will want a coat manufactured prior to 1980 as that is when the changeover to "Melton" wool was made. The new coats are probably as warm as the old coats as there is insulation used inside the coat to compensate for the lighter wool. The old wool is more dense, and because of that, is more wind resistant. Maybe more water resistant as well.

E-bay has an excellent selection of peacoats, and usually has a supply of buttons as well. To cut through the garbage, go to men's clothing, outerwear (I believe) and search for "peacoat" and "pea coat." They are spelled both ways. Don't know what the selection is these days, as I haven't looked at them in several months.

My wife has restricted me from bringing home any more peacoats. She says too many is way more than enough. But if I find one that needs a home, I can always find room for it.

If you want help in dating one, let me know. A picture of the label and a description of the number and placing of the buttons is helpful.

 

[Tomasso]

I'll show you what drives me nuts! AAAGGGHHH!

I agree, the pattern matching is atroucious

 

[green papaya]

us navy peacoats

I like peacoats, but the weather seldom gets cold enough in CA to wear my peacoat, maybe one month out of the year it gets chilly enough to wear my peacoat on a cold winter night.

 

[Peacoat]

I like peacoats, but the weather seldom gets cold enough in CA to wear my peacoat, maybe one month out of the year it gets chilly enough to wear my peacoat on a cold winter night.

In Tennessee, we are "lucky" to have Peacoat weather just about every day from December through February and into March.

Doesn't seem to be much more than the occasional interest on this board in Peacoats, but they are my favorite. I am a professional who has several nice wool and cashmere overcoats, but I usually find a way to wear one of my Peacoats just about everyday on the way into and home from work during the winter. They are more comfortable in the car and warmer than the standard overcoat. I do have an overcoat at the office for those midday forays into more conservative society, but the Peacoat gets me to the office and back home again.

I have tried, without success, to get interested in the WWII leather flight jackets that are so popular on this board. Probably because the flight jackets I wore during my military pilot (helicopters--VN) days was the green nylon, and that is what I relate to. But where is elan in a current issue nylon jacket?

I think if I could find an original leather WWII jacket, my interest would be much higher, but I have given up on that.

Also, I haven't figured out why the leather jackets were so popular with the bomber crews of the 8th Air Force. From the pictures I have seen here, there doesn't seem to be much insulation in them, and it certainly got cold at 20,000+ feet over Germany. Maybe someone here can answer that for me.

 

[feltfan]

Peacoat repair

So I went to sew the new buttons on my SO's peacoat
and found that, to my horror, her dog had chewed up a portion
of the coat! Specifically, one side of the button holes. It's
ragged.

Anyone have ideas on how I can fix it? I am inclined to have
a skilled tailor either:

- patch the area with matching fabric

or

- patch the area with a similarly colored fabric

The problem is, it's one thing to find replacement buttons
but quite another to find some of that classic fabric.
Fortunately the lining is intact. Either way, the coat can
be buttoned one way and will still look right.

Any opinions or sources for that incredibly dense wool
fabric they used to use?

Thanks!

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'll show you what drives me nuts! AAAGGGHHH!

It's very Doctor Who in the 70's.

Regular fabric shops or even Ebay you can find Peacoat buttons.