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Peacoat

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Bartender
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6,465
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South of Nashville
That black corduroy is certainly interesting. First one I have seen. His is probably the same year as yours. I really have no explanation for the black lining, other than a very rare occurrence in a short period of time. He advertised his coat as a WWII coat, and it obviously is a post war version. Thanks for the heads up on the auction; I got a photo of the pocket lining for my notes.
 

Dakota

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
United States
I notice that alot of the ebay sellers say that the pea coat they have up for auction is WWII when in fact they are post war versions. I saw a WWI pea coat, at least that what I think it was, on ebay about a year ago. It had the buttons with the stars on them. The price it sold for was on up there.
How many vintage Naval pea coats do you own and what is the condition of them?

Peacoat said:
That black corduroy is certainly interesting. First one I have seen. His is probably the same year as yours. I really have no explanation for the black lining, other than a very rare occurrence in a short period of time. He advertised his coat as a WWII coat, and it obviously is a post war version. Thanks for the heads up on the auction; I got a photo of the pocket lining for my notes.
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
Dakota: I tried to send you a PM, but for some reason your PM feature is not activated. So, at the risk of being admonished for carrying on a private conversation, I will briefly answer your question on the open board. I have fourteen or so peacoats, plus a bridge coat. All are mint except the WWII coat, and it has a little wear. Took it in for repairs, and it came out real nice. Without a close inspection, you really don't see the wear. For some reason, the nicest finish is on the 1949 coat. It also has a slightly fuller fit than the others. Glad you like these original pieces of history.
 

Dakota

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
United States
How do I activate the PM feature?

Peacoat said:
Dakota: I tried to send you a PM, but for some reason your PM feature is not activated. So, at the risk of being admonished for carrying on a private conversation, I will briefly answer your question on the open board. I have fourteen or so peacoats, plus a bridge coat. All are mint except the WWII coat, and it has a little wear. Took it in for repairs, and it came out real nice. Without a close inspection, you really don't see the wear. For some reason, the nicest finish is on the 1949 coat. It also has a slightly fuller fit than the others. Glad you like these original pieces of history.
 

SamReu

One of the Regulars
Messages
192
Location
Red Clay USA
Spokes Man

Friends, I have read these entries with keen interest. Based on what I've learned, one of the two peacoats I own is a '40s model -- it has the Naval Clothing Factory tag, flanked by anchors. I always suspected it was old when I found it at thrift store (I won't tell you what I paid for it).

The second coat has had its label removed, but is comparable to the other. Both, I've noticed, have stitching about 6 inches up from the end of the sleeves -- a sort of cuff, I guess. Later coats, I believe, do not have that. Can anyone shed any light on that?
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
SamReu said:
Friends, I have read these entries with keen interest. Based on what I've learned, one of the two peacoats I own is a '40s model -- it has the Naval Clothing Factory tag, flanked by anchors. I always suspected it was old when I found it at thrift store (I won't tell you what I paid for it).

The second coat has had its label removed, but is comparable to the other. Both, I've noticed, have stitching about 6 inches up from the end of the sleeves -- a sort of cuff, I guess. Later coats, I believe, do not have that. Can anyone shed any light on that?

The tag you cited was also used in the fifties, but those were six button (showing) coats. The WWII models with that tag had eight buttons showing. Another tag used after the war and in the fifties said "Naval Clothing Depot." Many people think this is a WWII tag, but it is not. The easy way to distinguish the WWII coats from subsequent models is by the number of the buttons. If it doesn't have eight buttons showing (four rows of two buttons each side), it isn't WWII.

The WWII "Naval Clothing Factory" tag was revived in the fifties, and leads to confusion. These coats had six buttons, and are thus easy to distinguish from the WWII coats.

I think if you measure the stitching above the cuff, you will find it is something less than six inches. During WWII, there was a single line of stitching about three inches above the cuff (in addition to the stitching right at the cuff). After the war the stitching became two rows about three inches above the cuff (in addition to the stitching right at the cuff). The double stitching was in place up until 1965 (not sure it was used every year or not, but I think it was). I couldn't find my 1966 coat for a definitive answer, but I believe that was the year the stitching several inches above the cuff was discontinued. I know it was gone in 1967, and I believe that 1965 was the last year for any stitching, single or double rows.

From what you have said about the stitching and the tag, it sounds as if you have two WWII coats. If they have eight buttons showing, then they definitely are WWII. Hope this answers your question.
 

Dakota

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
United States
Are the peacoats with the 10 buttons, 5 on each side, older than WWII or are they also WWII? I have two of those with 10 buttons, corduroy lined pockets, and the chin strap under neath the collar on one side.

Dakota
 

52Styleline

A-List Customer
Messages
322
Location
SW WA
This thread motivated me go dig out my old peacoat which was issued to me in April of 1966. It has the white label, printed in black, no date, Kirsey wool. The pockets are corduroy lined. Mine has three buttons on each side. Since it was issued to me new,there is no question about its provenance.

I can verify the quality of the wool in this garment, as it kept me warm during some very cold weather. I subsequently received a commission and one of my regrets was that as an officer, I could no longer wear my trusty peacoat on duty. The officer's foul weather jacket (I still have one of those too) was never as satisfactory or as cozy.
 

SamReu

One of the Regulars
Messages
192
Location
Red Clay USA
Spokes Man

Peacoat:

I dug out one of the peacoats this morning after making my queries yesterday (4 January) about the stitching on the sleeves. True enough, the stitching is not 6 inches from the end of the sleeve; it's more like 4. It also was a single stitch, not double-stitched.
The coat I looked at featured six buttons showing, three on each side, with another two hidden under the collar. So I guess it's post-WWII. The one with the clothing tag is at my father's house, and I'll give it a good eyeballing when I go see him.
Thanks for your insights and expertise. Man, you can learn anything on this site!
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
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6,465
Location
South of Nashville
Dakota said:
Are the peacoats with the 10 buttons, 5 on each side, older than WWII or are they also WWII? I have two of those with 10 buttons, corduroy lined pockets, and the chin strap under neath the collar on one side.

Dakota

If you are describing eight buttons showing when the coat is buttoned, with two more hidden under the collar and the lapels, then it is WWII. I have never seen one with ten buttons showing. The chin strap was discontinued after the war.
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
52Styleline said:
This thread motivated me go dig out my old peacoat which was issued to me in April of 1966. It has the white label, printed in black, no date, Kirsey wool. The pockets are corduroy lined. Mine has three buttons on each side. Since it was issued to me new,there is no question about its provenance.

I can verify the quality of the wool in this garment, as it kept me warm during some very cold weather. I subsequently received a commission and one of my regrets was that as an officer, I could no longer wear my trusty peacoat on duty. The officer's foul weather jacket (I still have one of those too) was never as satisfactory or as cozy.

The 1966 coats are easy to date as that was the only year that particular tag was used. Starting in 1967 the year was coded in the contract number--DSA or DLA, so they are easy to date as well.

I would be interested to find out about the stitching, if any, about three inches above the cuff on your coat. I still haven't found my 1966 coat for a definitive answer. My wife may have given it away as she thinks I have too many, and knows that I can only wear one at a time!
 

Asudef

New in Town
Messages
29
Location
Bay Area
I was curious about the buttons; have they always used this style of button, because they're the same as the new USN pea coats and to be honest, they look kind of cheap to me but the only other style I've seen are the gold or silver eagle buttons which I understand are used on officers coats?
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
Asudef said:
I was curious about the buttons; have they always used this style of button, because they're the same as the new USN pea coats and to be honest, they look kind of cheap to me but the only other style I've seen are the gold or silver eagle buttons which I understand are used on officers coats?

The earlier black buttons, perhaps pre WWII, had stars around the border of the button. They were made of a Bakelite material The border with the stars was subsequently discontinued, and the button as we know it today was instituted, perhaps at or near the beginning of WWII. The buttons of more recent origin (don't know the date, but would guess 50 to 60 years) are made of plastic.

The gold buttons are for officers and chiefs (senior and master). The black buttons are for the enlisted up to petty officer 1st class.

In the mid 70's, I don't have the exact year in front of me, the coats were issued with pewter (silver) buttons instead of black, during the tenure of Admiral Zumwalt. There was also an uniform change about then. These pewter buttons were similar to the gold buttons worn by officers and chiefs. The buttons were changed back to the standard black 1 1/4" in the mid to late 80's. I have the exact dates somewhere, but I have misplaced the notes on those particular buttons--maybe to never be found again. If you are interested, and if I find the notes, I will give you the dates.

Hope this told you more than you ever wanted to know about such an arcane subject as peacoat buttons!
 

52Styleline

A-List Customer
Messages
322
Location
SW WA
Peacoat said:
I would be interested to find out about the stitching, if any, about three inches above the cuff on your coat. I still haven't found my 1966 coat for a definitive answer. My wife may have given it away as she thinks I have too many, and knows that I can only wear one at a time!

On the peacoat which was issued to me in 1966, there is a single row of stitching 3/4 inch from the end of the sleeve, and a double row of stitching 3 inches up from the end of the sleeve. The double rows are separated by 3/4 inch.
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
Thanks. That's good information I can file away and use when someone wants to date a coat that has no tag. I thought the double stitching had been discontinued a year earlier, but now I know differently.
 

wetmarble

New in Town
Messages
40
Location
New York
This is a great thread. Just thought I would add this into the mix for fun's sake...

ab2f_1.JPG


Found on a bridge coat and clearly dated during the war. Here's the ebay auction for the coat:
http://cgi.ebay.com/WWII-US-Navy-Of...oryZ4729QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here are a few more labels:

World War 2:
31062029_o.jpg


Post War:
dd53_12.JPG


b7eb_12.JPG
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
I have never seen that first label before. I have noticed that the bridge coat labels are quite a bit different from the peacoats, and not even close to them in later years. Most of the ones I have seen have been Naval Academy labels. The one I have is not a standard military label at all, but obviously the bridge coat was made for a Naval Officer. As the bridge coats were purchased by the officers and chiefs, and not issued, there may not have been a contract let for them. I know that I purchased my own uniforms and flight jackets. Sometimes I purchased in the PX and sometimes direct from a private company.

The second and fourth labels probably are WWII due to the aging of the tags, but that particular label was revived in the fifties (probably just to confuse us 50+ years later!). If the coat has that tag and three buttons, it is a fifties model; with four buttons it is WWII.

The third label is definitely post war. Probably mid or late forties to early fifties. I have a 1949 coat with that same label.

Thanks for posting the pictures. One day I will take the time and figure out how to send a picture to photo bucket and then repost it here. Then I can post my own pictures of labels to illustrate what I am talking about.
 

wetmarble

New in Town
Messages
40
Location
New York
The 1st and 2nd labels are definitely war time. (first is dated, second comes off an 8 buttons showing coat) The 3rd and 4th are both post war (coming off of coats with 6 buttons showing). I don't have enough examples to check, but I'm hypothosizing that war time "Naval Clothing Factory" labels have Name and Rate, where as post war "Naval Clothing Factory" labels have Name and Service Info. If anyone has coats with these labels and can chime in, please do.

On a side note, does anyone know when the neck strap was discontinued?
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,465
Location
South of Nashville
I will check some of my labels and coats in the next day or so to see if your hypothesis is correct. Hope I have enough examples to make a definitive statement one way or the other. And, for the sake of consistency, I hope it is true.

I believe the neck straps were discontinued after the war, probably when the six button coats were introduced. I have never seen a six button coat with a chin strap, and the WWII eight button versions all had the straps--at least the ones I have seen.
 

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