Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Pre 1940s Stetson Westerns

Jesse John

One of the Regulars
Messages
242
Location
Tucson, Arizona
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
IMG_4789.HEIC.jpg

So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
IMG_4790.HEIC.jpg
IMG_4791.HEIC.jpg

LOT #5747


Screen Shot 2022-09-01 at 3.41.57 PM.png
IMG_4775.HEIC.jpg

IMG_4776.HEIC.jpg

IMG_4792.HEIC.jpg
IMG_4793.HEIC.jpg

Stitching job
IMG_4794.HEIC.jpg

Cleaning off the grime.

IMG_4802.jpg


I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!
 

Who?

Practically Family
Messages
692
Location
South Windsor, CT
It looks like a hat that Elmer Keith would have worn, and did wear in at least one photo.

If it’s not a rude question, do you intend to wear it at all, or just preserve it, never to be worn again?
 
Last edited:
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
View attachment 448388
So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
View attachment 448389 View attachment 448390
LOT #5747


View attachment 448394 View attachment 448386
View attachment 448387
View attachment 448391 View attachment 448392
Stitching job
View attachment 448393
Cleaning off the grime.

View attachment 448395

I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!


Great hat, Jesse! I like your efforts to restore it and trying to keep it original. I think the remaining patina adds to rather than detract from the hat.
 

Jesse John

One of the Regulars
Messages
242
Location
Tucson, Arizona
Great hat, Jesse! I like your efforts to restore it and trying to keep it original. I think the remaining patina adds to rather than detract from the hat.
Thank you!! I tried my best. It’s wearable and I think it’s going to continue to hold up nicely. I agree with you about the patina. It wouldn’t be the same without it!
Good.

I think it would be sad if you didn’t wear it, but I didn’t want to say anything until I knew your intentions.

Hats are meant to be useful, and to be enjoyed by being worn. (I think)
I wear all of my hats for that very reason my friend. They should definitely be enjoyed through wear. Tucson is the perfect place to wear this big one!
 
Messages
11,730
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
View attachment 448388
So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
View attachment 448389 View attachment 448390
LOT #5747


View attachment 448394 View attachment 448386
View attachment 448387
View attachment 448391 View attachment 448392
Stitching job
View attachment 448393
Cleaning off the grime.

View attachment 448395

I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!
Beautiful. Well done sir
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,876
Location
Central Texas
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
View attachment 448388
So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
View attachment 448389 View attachment 448390
LOT #5747


View attachment 448394 View attachment 448386
View attachment 448387
View attachment 448391 View attachment 448392
Stitching job
View attachment 448393
Cleaning off the grime.

View attachment 448395

I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!

GBeautiful. Well done sir

What Joe said!
 
Messages
18,222
Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.
In another thread posters are making fun of the “butt crease”. This style of hat with crown height was popular in the desert SW into the 1930’s. The extra crown height provided air insulation against the desert sun, & thus cooler to wear. They were sometimes worn in the NW for the same insulating effect in the winter, but the NW tends to be windier.

I could only find catalog examples of wide ribbons but you should search the 1920’s - 1930’s catalogs posted.

936BD5AE-9E03-4115-8552-75E181BE307C.jpeg

BE4F763A-3A27-4E55-93F2-0112081345BE.jpeg

985A2089-8B38-4A0E-9A77-5048D0CDF1E4.jpeg

627BB2CC-1FF0-4A83-852B-159E4D886543.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Jesse John

One of the Regulars
Messages
242
Location
Tucson, Arizona
In another thread posters are making fun of the “butt crease”. This style of hat with crown height was popular in the desert SW into the 1930’s. The extra crown height provided air insulation against the desert sun, & thus cooler to wear. They were sometimes worn in the NW for the same insulating effect in the winter, but the NW tends to be windier.

I could only find catalog examples of wide ribbons but you should search the 1920’s - 1930’s catalogs posted.

View attachment 448765
View attachment 448766
View attachment 448767
View attachment 448768
Hey HJ thanks for finding these for me as well and providing a bit more context as to where this style was popular and why. It makes total sense! I still have yet to see a sale sample with the 3 ply. The models in the first page are close though and the wide ribbons are very appealing. I see nothing wrong with a “butt” crease. To be honest, I tend to find some of the older creases more interesting than some of today’s! Thanks again
 

TheGuitarFairy

Practically Family
Messages
608
Location
Just West of Boston
A complete hail Mary on the size and hat arrives a 7 3/8 : )

Around 25% of sweat's stitching undone but rest solidly in place. Sweat is sturdy and supple but still, I'm not folding out to check for lot# ha .. I did spy hand written upon, red multi celled tag though. Sweat "V" stitched .. not sure where to put hat's manufacture date. Owner conveyed to me hat was found in the Rochester attic of a recently passed 95 yo woman .. hat belonged to her uncle.

Happy to be it's caretaker for a while.

IMG_1575 (1).jpg

IMG_1572.jpg

IMG_1570.jpg

IMG_1566.jpg

IMG_1567 (1).jpg

IMG_1568 (1).jpg

IMG_1564.jpg

IMG_1565 (1).jpg
 
Last edited:

Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,454
Very nice. The un-sewn back of the sweatband and size sticker usually means pre-30s.


A complete hail Mary on the size and hat arrives a 7 3/8 : )

Around 25% of sweat's stitching undone but rest solidly in place. Sweat is sturdy and supple but still, I'm not folding out to check for lot# ha .. I did spy hand written upon, red multi celled tag though. Sweat "V" stitched .. not sure where to put hat's manufacture date. Owner conveyed to me hat was found in the Rochester attic of a recently passed 95 yo woman .. hat belonged to her uncle.

Happy to be it's caretaker for a while.

View attachment 455261
View attachment 455260
View attachment 455259
View attachment 455256
View attachment 455257
View attachment 455258
View attachment 455246
View attachment 455255
 

Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,454
I have seen VV stitching on 30s hats, so to me the stitching means pre-40s, along with the three-box red tag.

The unsewn back of the sweat and sticker are almost certainly pre-30s. Getting closer to a date will probably mean eventually checking Alan’s lot number information. Some of the guys use a dental mirror to look under the sweat.


Thanks, Daniel .. if my memory serves "V" stitching puts a Stetson at 20s or earlier? Fwiw, art work on box looks very deco. 1914 here .. not sure when store finally closed or what everyone's looking at in picture.
View attachment 455268
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,323
Messages
3,078,919
Members
54,243
Latest member
seeldoger47
Top