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Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,496
Location
London, UK
I posted about this hat a couple of weeks ago in the 'what hat are you waiting for today' thread. This is a new hat, from The Hat Centre in Stamford Hill, London. Lovely business. I have actually been there in person a few years ago. Chaotic store, boxes everywhere. It's a small, family-run business with an older, Jewish gentleman in charge who I found very pleasant (with a great sense of humour). That part of town has a lot of Orthodox folks, and you see a lot more hats worn than in many other parts of London. His business sells to both locals and more generally online. This is not the first hat I've had from them, but my first of this model. https://www.hatcentre.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=153&product_id=141 It's sold as "Antelope Felt Hat". This is the navy colour; it's also available in a range of other options (I fancy a green one at some point). Photos taken in my office (please excuse the clutter!)/.

For comparison, I've taken the open crown shots beside a new, Mk IV open crown Akubra Federation Deluxe; so many folks here are familiar already with that model, it seemed to be a good comparison. The brim of the Antelope Felt is clearly wider - it's a 75mm all round, about half an inch bigger than the Akubra is on the size, and a quarter of an inch bigger than the Akubra front and back. Crown is fractionally shorter, maybe quarter to 3/8" of an inch at most. Looks to be more of a height difference than there actually is, I think because of the wider brim. The ribbon is also a bit deeper than the Akubra's, with more flounce to the bow. The other immediately visible difference is the wind trolley, which I like as a visual detail (we'll see how it works in practice in good time).

There's a big difference in feel. I don't think one is necessarily *better* that the other, but the felt on the Hat Centre is definitely thicker, and noticeably softer from the off. Whereas I'll steam the Akubra when it comes to bash time, the bash you see in the Hat Centre hat in the last couple of shots was done entirely dry with the hat fresh out of the box. Brim snaps nicely.

We'll see how it wears in, but so far this is a very nice hat for a comparable price to the Akubra Federation Deluxe (a little more expensive than the Standard Federation). It wears similarly with broadly similar dimensions, and comes in a few colours in which the Akubra is not available. I don't know where it is made exactly - it's just branded, like all the Hat Centre's stuff, with their own logoing. Highly likely it's a Tonak body, though, and quite probably made in Eastern Europe, as afaik the Hat Centre is a retain operation and doesn't directly manufacture themselves. Very pleased, though. THC is worth a looksee if you happen to be in town and have an hour or two to kill. It's not got the panache of Locks, maybe, but if you're actually looking to buy at a reasonable rate... Do check ahead for opening hours, though, as these are a bit erratic (if they've told you they are open and you find the door locked, he might just be in the store room and minding shop on his own, so ring the bell). Mail operation can be slightly slower (again, one-man operation for the most part), but worth the wait ime.



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Whew, that took a lot of digging to find this post, however.... I wanted, just about a year on, to cross-reference this to a second hat of the same model, from the same source. I was sufficiently pleased with my navy blue in this hat last year to order another from the Hat Centre just last week. And here it is:

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The hat centre refer to this one as Russet, which is bang on in person. It's a glorious, reddish cinnamony mid brown, which sits very nicely between the golden hue of my Fed in Tawny Fawn and the Fed DLX in dark brown. This is a hat that will work nicely with something like a deep brown suit in a way that the dark brown fed would do less well, imo. It's a colour I've had in mind for a while, and I am very well pleased with it.

The felt is, again, thicker and softer than the Akubra, with a nice hand to it. I wouldn't say it is better or worse than the Fed, but certainly different. Out of the box, this iteration is very much softer than the Akubra, but - in contrast to the navy - just stiff enough that it needed a little steam to bash. This is what I've done with it for now - a simple centre dent and pinch. I'll probably keep it that way - I like the proportions it has with this, and it lets the colour speak for itself.

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I think this side view, at least on my monitor, best captures the colour.

As with the navy blue, it's very much a case of "equally great, just different" up against the Akubra. The open crown shape is the same as before, so very slightly more rounded on the crown than the Fed, but I wouldn't call it tapered - once bashed, the difference really has to be looked for. The one aspect where there is a clear winner between the two, and even that is subjective, is the ribbon. I love the slightly deeper ribbon here, and though I'm not especially likely to use it in anger, the wind trolley is a lovely detail. The 57 is a good fit, ready to go without worry that it'll snug up too much with wear, and the height, bashed, leaves just a nice amount of room between my scalp and the top of the crown (afaik this was deliberately designed to accommodate a Yarmulke). Really chuffed with this one. It'll get an airing in Paris week after next; hopefully a chance for my traditional selfie at the Eiffel with a new hat. My sole criticism really is that they - as is the case with the Fed, and so many others - use a white liner rather than a black or other dark colour. Purely something I'm aware of because for me (rocking the Yul Brynner look since '06) a white liner can show signs of being grubby more over time, can yellow a little, which a black or other dark liner hides somewhat.


I expect I will pick up more of these - one of the other bonuses comparing this with the Fed is that the two come in quite a different set of colours. Black aside (and I have already four very nice black fedoras including an Optimo in similar design, so no call for black in either this or the Fed), there's only the grey that is at all close the the Fed, and even that is more like Moonstone taken down several shades, a much more iron grey without the hint of blue I see in a Carbon grey (your mileage - and eyesight - may differ!). I do have my eye on the green (it'll be interesting to compare it to the newer olive when they get photos on the website), and the French Navy (a markedly lighter blue than the Navy, somewhere between a traditional navy and a royal blue. What I'd call an 'airforce blue'). They're all here if you're interested- the model is the "Antelope Felt Hat". https://www.hatcentre.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=153 I have zero connection with the business other than being a satisfied customer.
 

Door mouse

New in Town
Messages
3
New here. Why is it quite difficult to feel confident about wearing a fedora at the beginning of your hat appreciation? I am a baldie so some sort of hat is essential in most forms of weather. However once you has found the hat confidence why do they become a ******. This is my latest hat and one of my favourites when
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dressing down and walking the dogs. G A Dunn with no lining. From this site I gather it might be late 1940s but I have no idea really. I have put a lining in it, soon gets pretty hot on the bonce. Any more information would be nice. It does not say but I assume it is fur felt.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,496
Location
London, UK
Thank you. I actually don't know exactly when a hat is called a homburg or a lordshat. I always thought a lordshat has the front pinches and a homburg not.


I know there are those who disagree, but I'm in the same camp as @Steve1857 : the defining difference is the brim binding on the Homburg. The Homburg is more formal than a fedora - and technically more formal than a Lords Hat. The HB and Lords were both much more common in Britain and Ireland than the Fedora / Trilby in the 20s, and really it was into the 30s that the latter became more common over here. It was more usual to see a Lords worn with a pinch, but some guys just liked it with a Homburg too.

New here. Why is it quite difficult to feel confident about wearing a fedora at the beginning of your hat appreciation? I am a baldie so some sort of hat is essential in most forms of weather. However once you has found the hat confidence why do they become a ******. This is my latest hat and one of my favourites when View attachment 645623 View attachment 645624 View attachment 645625 View attachment 645626 dressing down and walking the dogs. G A Dunn with no lining. From this site I gather it might be late 1940s but I have no idea really. I have put a lining in it, soon gets pretty hot on the bonce. Any more information would be nice. It does not say but I assume it is fur felt.

I love a wide binding on a Fedora brim! I need to get me a couple. Nice choice of lining too. I find a dark liner doesn't get grubby looking the way white does over time... still can't figure out why, for that reason, white continues to be the industry standard....
 

Door mouse

New in Town
Messages
3
Another G A Dunn & Co hat. It is rather nice and in great condition. 7 1/8 too big for me but packing the sweat band has made a good comfortable fit now. As you can see "English Velour" that might just be marketing as I know some Dunn hats have made in Czechoslovakia printed on the sweat band. A charity shop purchase for very little, very happy with it. Not as shiny as some super examples on this site.
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MikeinRome

One Too Many
Messages
1,347
Stetson Tom Mix Clear Nutria hat. Looks like 1930's. Has 5 inch brim and probably 7 1/2 inch open crown. Made for the Bloom Co. in Sheridan Wyoming. I won this hat in an auction today. The hat box for this hat was wrongly sold in another Lot a long with a vintage Miller "The Rancher" model hat that was in that Stetson box and misadvertised as this Tom Mix type hat. I tried to buy that hat and box but the bidding got ridiculous. I assume someone who didn't know better bid the Miller to the Moon thinking it was the Tom Mix that I actually bought. The last photo is of an old auction notice for this hat, but it was wrongly attached to the other Lot with that Miller hat. The reason I wanted the hat box was to help document the hat, because the hat might not say Tom Mix on it but the box specifically states that it's a Tom Mix model hat.
 

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MikeinRome

One Too Many
Messages
1,347
I'm posting that Miller The Rancher hat on another thread. If anyone on the Lounge bought it and wants to sell me the Stetson box, message me. Otherwise, the new Miller owner may go to their grave swearing they own a genuine Tom Mix Stetson. Lol!!
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,448
Location
Denmark
Ca. late 1940s/early 1950s Borsalino, very soft weight, velvety feel felt.

11.5cm crown height to the front crease

20241012_134353.jpg


Brim 5.5cm and ribbon width around the 5cm mark.

20241012_134358.jpg


A light pink/peach felt colour.

A very gracious gift from our FL friend in California. I'm sure I'm not the only one who misses Brent's expert input here on the Lounge.
 
Messages
20,162
Location
Nederland
Ca. late 1940s/early 1950s Borsalino, very soft weight, velvety feel felt.

11.5cm crown height to the front crease

View attachment 646264

Brim 5.5cm and ribbon width around the 5cm mark.

View attachment 646265

A light pink/peach felt colour.

A very gracious gift from our FL friend in California. I'm sure I'm not the only one who misses Brent's expert input here on the Lounge.
That is some hat. Fabulous Borasalino, Steve and as generous as I've got to know Brent. Pity he doesn't post here anymore.
 
Messages
20,162
Location
Nederland
A bit of a treat, especially considering in what condition it arrived (see the Other than Ebay etc thread). This brand doesn't show up often, so if it does I'll jump on it. It was a lottery hat, because I didin't know what size it was when I bought it.
Rehfus Olympia homburg in grey. Size 57 (huzzah!) with the bound brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. High quality felt and finishing. Weighs 139 grams.

rehfus homburg_01.jpg


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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,448
Location
Denmark
A bit of a treat, especially considering in what condition it arrived (see the Other than Ebay etc thread). This brand doesn't show up often, so if it does I'll jump on it. It was a lottery hat, because I didin't know what size it was when I bought it.
Rehfus Olympia homburg in grey. Size 57 (huzzah!) with the bound brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. High quality felt and finishing. Weighs 139 grams.

rehfus homburg_01.jpg


rehfus homburg_02.jpg


rehfus homburg_03.jpg


rehfus homburg_04.jpg


rehfus homburg_06.jpg


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rehfus homburg_08.jpg


rehfus homburg_09.jpg


rehfus homburg_10.jpg
Great catch, Stefan. It's a pity Rehfus hats don't turn up often, they're excellent quality.
 
Messages
20,162
Location
Nederland
Great catch, Stefan. It's a pity Rehfus hats don't turn up often, they're excellent quality.
Thank you, Steve. From what I gather from Steve's website they struggles to get back on their feet after the war and went under as early as 1963. So probably not a high production post-war. Like your Oberländer this is also of high quality.
 
Messages
13,673
Ca. late 1940s/early 1950s Borsalino, very soft weight, velvety feel felt.

11.5cm crown height to the front crease

View attachment 646264

Brim 5.5cm and ribbon width around the 5cm mark.

View attachment 646265

A light pink/peach felt colour.

A very gracious gift from our FL friend in California. I'm sure I'm not the only one who misses Brent's expert input here on the Lounge.
That is beautiful, Steve!
 
Messages
13,673
A bit of a treat, especially considering in what condition it arrived (see the Other than Ebay etc thread). This brand doesn't show up often, so if it does I'll jump on it. It was a lottery hat, because I didin't know what size it was when I bought it.
Rehfus Olympia homburg in grey. Size 57 (huzzah!) with the bound brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. High quality felt and finishing. Weighs 139 grams.

rehfus homburg_01.jpg


rehfus homburg_02.jpg


rehfus homburg_03.jpg


rehfus homburg_04.jpg


rehfus homburg_06.jpg


rehfus homburg_07.jpg


rehfus homburg_08.jpg


rehfus homburg_09.jpg


rehfus homburg_10.jpg
What a recovery!! Lovely homburg, Stefan.
 

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