Edward
Bartender
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- 26,496
- Location
- London, UK
I posted about this hat a couple of weeks ago in the 'what hat are you waiting for today' thread. This is a new hat, from The Hat Centre in Stamford Hill, London. Lovely business. I have actually been there in person a few years ago. Chaotic store, boxes everywhere. It's a small, family-run business with an older, Jewish gentleman in charge who I found very pleasant (with a great sense of humour). That part of town has a lot of Orthodox folks, and you see a lot more hats worn than in many other parts of London. His business sells to both locals and more generally online. This is not the first hat I've had from them, but my first of this model. https://www.hatcentre.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=153&product_id=141 It's sold as "Antelope Felt Hat". This is the navy colour; it's also available in a range of other options (I fancy a green one at some point). Photos taken in my office (please excuse the clutter!)/.
For comparison, I've taken the open crown shots beside a new, Mk IV open crown Akubra Federation Deluxe; so many folks here are familiar already with that model, it seemed to be a good comparison. The brim of the Antelope Felt is clearly wider - it's a 75mm all round, about half an inch bigger than the Akubra is on the size, and a quarter of an inch bigger than the Akubra front and back. Crown is fractionally shorter, maybe quarter to 3/8" of an inch at most. Looks to be more of a height difference than there actually is, I think because of the wider brim. The ribbon is also a bit deeper than the Akubra's, with more flounce to the bow. The other immediately visible difference is the wind trolley, which I like as a visual detail (we'll see how it works in practice in good time).
There's a big difference in feel. I don't think one is necessarily *better* that the other, but the felt on the Hat Centre is definitely thicker, and noticeably softer from the off. Whereas I'll steam the Akubra when it comes to bash time, the bash you see in the Hat Centre hat in the last couple of shots was done entirely dry with the hat fresh out of the box. Brim snaps nicely.
We'll see how it wears in, but so far this is a very nice hat for a comparable price to the Akubra Federation Deluxe (a little more expensive than the Standard Federation). It wears similarly with broadly similar dimensions, and comes in a few colours in which the Akubra is not available. I don't know where it is made exactly - it's just branded, like all the Hat Centre's stuff, with their own logoing. Highly likely it's a Tonak body, though, and quite probably made in Eastern Europe, as afaik the Hat Centre is a retain operation and doesn't directly manufacture themselves. Very pleased, though. THC is worth a looksee if you happen to be in town and have an hour or two to kill. It's not got the panache of Locks, maybe, but if you're actually looking to buy at a reasonable rate... Do check ahead for opening hours, though, as these are a bit erratic (if they've told you they are open and you find the door locked, he might just be in the store room and minding shop on his own, so ring the bell). Mail operation can be slightly slower (again, one-man operation for the most part), but worth the wait ime.
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Whew, that took a lot of digging to find this post, however.... I wanted, just about a year on, to cross-reference this to a second hat of the same model, from the same source. I was sufficiently pleased with my navy blue in this hat last year to order another from the Hat Centre just last week. And here it is:
The hat centre refer to this one as Russet, which is bang on in person. It's a glorious, reddish cinnamony mid brown, which sits very nicely between the golden hue of my Fed in Tawny Fawn and the Fed DLX in dark brown. This is a hat that will work nicely with something like a deep brown suit in a way that the dark brown fed would do less well, imo. It's a colour I've had in mind for a while, and I am very well pleased with it.
The felt is, again, thicker and softer than the Akubra, with a nice hand to it. I wouldn't say it is better or worse than the Fed, but certainly different. Out of the box, this iteration is very much softer than the Akubra, but - in contrast to the navy - just stiff enough that it needed a little steam to bash. This is what I've done with it for now - a simple centre dent and pinch. I'll probably keep it that way - I like the proportions it has with this, and it lets the colour speak for itself.
I think this side view, at least on my monitor, best captures the colour.
As with the navy blue, it's very much a case of "equally great, just different" up against the Akubra. The open crown shape is the same as before, so very slightly more rounded on the crown than the Fed, but I wouldn't call it tapered - once bashed, the difference really has to be looked for. The one aspect where there is a clear winner between the two, and even that is subjective, is the ribbon. I love the slightly deeper ribbon here, and though I'm not especially likely to use it in anger, the wind trolley is a lovely detail. The 57 is a good fit, ready to go without worry that it'll snug up too much with wear, and the height, bashed, leaves just a nice amount of room between my scalp and the top of the crown (afaik this was deliberately designed to accommodate a Yarmulke). Really chuffed with this one. It'll get an airing in Paris week after next; hopefully a chance for my traditional selfie at the Eiffel with a new hat. My sole criticism really is that they - as is the case with the Fed, and so many others - use a white liner rather than a black or other dark colour. Purely something I'm aware of because for me (rocking the Yul Brynner look since '06) a white liner can show signs of being grubby more over time, can yellow a little, which a black or other dark liner hides somewhat.
I expect I will pick up more of these - one of the other bonuses comparing this with the Fed is that the two come in quite a different set of colours. Black aside (and I have already four very nice black fedoras including an Optimo in similar design, so no call for black in either this or the Fed), there's only the grey that is at all close the the Fed, and even that is more like Moonstone taken down several shades, a much more iron grey without the hint of blue I see in a Carbon grey (your mileage - and eyesight - may differ!). I do have my eye on the green (it'll be interesting to compare it to the newer olive when they get photos on the website), and the French Navy (a markedly lighter blue than the Navy, somewhere between a traditional navy and a royal blue. What I'd call an 'airforce blue'). They're all here if you're interested- the model is the "Antelope Felt Hat". https://www.hatcentre.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=153 I have zero connection with the business other than being a satisfied customer.


