Post '30s belt-back jackets and suits

[skyvue]

It definitly looks like a 1960's does 1930's sportcoat. The biggest hint alone for me is that half liner, plus the 2 buttons on each cuff, which existed in the '30s but very common in the '60s. With the raritiy of origional 1930's belted back jackets, finding ones from the '60s is still a great find as the quality of clothes was still quite proficient.

Why is the half-liner a tell, GFE? That's one of the features that made me hopeful it was actually a '30s jacket -- I had thought a '60s jacket would have a full lining.

 

[Dinerman]

Some more:

1960s does 1930s belt back

 

[skyvue]

Nice one, Dinerman. Even I would have pegged that one as from the sixties, though, based on the lining and labels.

 

[Tommy]

what timing! I just picked up this jacket, it had a couple of large stains on the lower front right. I basically spotted the stains and washed the jacket twice, and as far as I can tell, the stains are gone. You are seeing it before I have it pressed so it will look sharper. I couldn't find anything on the label "Adams Clothes", other than a lawsuit Adams Hat Co and Lefco were involved in back in the day over the use of the name "Adams Clothes". I'm not even sure it's the same Adams Clothes associated with one of these companies.

But I like jacket, it's ventless, cotton. The buttons are sewn on the flap, which is kind of quirky. the jacket design reminds of a 1920's style. I have no idea the age of the jacket My first guess was 1950's, but heck it could be 80's or 60's. I doubt seriously it's anything earlier than 1960.

Any thoughts?

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Why is the half-liner a tell, GFE? That's one of the features that made me hopeful it was actually a '30s jacket -- I had thought a '60s jacket would have a full lining.

The reason it's is a tell is because the liner which covers the sides and the top half of the jacket is post-mid 1950's thing. From all my research on fedora lounge and from looking around vintage stores, I have never seen this type of liner on jackets before the late 1950's. Normally pre-late '50s jackets either had no back liner at all or were fully lined.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

hmmm, i'll have a dig around my photo archive. Certainly that liner was more common in the 1960s, but they were definitely around in the 1930s. Like all the other features/details discussed here, they were all around in the 1930s. There really is nothing new in menswear.

What pegs this to the 60s is the confluence of the features. It would be very surprising to see ALL these features on the SAME 1930s jacket, but i'll bet that I can go through my wardrobe (and other collectors likewise) and find ALL these features on DIFFERENT 1930s jackets. One of my favourite 1930s belt back jackets - purchased incidentally at a ludicrously low price of $50 US from the classifieds here - has in fact the very long central vent extending all the way up to the belt …

The reason it's is a tell is because the liner which covers the sides and the top half of the jacket is post-mid 1950's thing. From all my research on fedora lounge and from looking around vintage stores, I have never seen this type of liner on jackets before the late 1950's. Normally pre-late '50s jackets either had no back liner at all or were fully lined.

 

[Derek WC]

If you've got the right body shape, 60's and 70's can actually look pretty good. I am somewhat partial to the style myself, except when it comes to the un-natural fibres and the fact that in whatever I've found the center vent always flared out when I buttoned them, even though the waist fit perfectly.

Is it just me or are the belts lower on the 60-70's than the 30's? I've got a 70's belt back, I'll get a picture of it.

 

[skyvue]

I was hoping someone could describe or perhaps even provide a picture depicting how the lapels on my beltback jacket differ for a similar 1930s coat. How should they be different, if I opt to have them altered?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I don't think the lapels are too big.

 

[skyvue]

If understood the other posters correctly, they weren't so much saying they were too large, but that their shape screamed, "Seventies!" Which is definitely not what I want.

 

[AntonAAK]

Is it just me or are the belts lower on the 60-70's than the 30's? I've got a 70's belt back, I'll get a picture of it.

Interesting question. I wonder if they would have moved down with the trouser waistband. 30's higher waisted trousers prompting a higher belted jacket...

 

[Feraud]

I was hoping someone could describe or perhaps even provide a picture depicting how the lapels on my beltback jacket differ for a similar 1930s coat. How should they be different, if I opt to have them altered?

Take a look at the sticky with plenty of reference photos.
I am not sure the collar/lapels are egregious enough to warrant a tailor job.

 

[avedwards]

Is it just me or are the belts lower on the 60-70's than the 30's? I've got a 70's belt back, I'll get a picture of it.

Interesting question. I wonder if they would have moved down with the trouser waistband. 30's higher waisted trousers prompting a higher belted jacket...

From what I've seen everything was often lower in the 70s than in the 30s. That includes lapel gorge, button stance, trouser waistline, waistcoat and quite possibly back belt.

I think it's a shame because I have a 1975 three piece which is made of a nice fabric with straight-legged trousers, which would be a very 30s looking if all of the above were 1"-2" higher.

 

[skyvue]

Take a look at the sticky with plenty of reference photos.
I am not sure the collar/lapels are egregious enough to warrant a tailor job.

Thanks, Feraud!

 

[Dinerman]

 

[GoldenEraFan]

I made a perosnal discovery regarding the belted back sport coats. Upon watching the 1924 Keaton film "The Navigator" I realized that the '60s belted backs might actually have been more inspired by the sporty early '20s style sportcoats. In the film Keaton is wearing a tweed, two button belted back complete with sporty buttoned pocket flaps and a center vent.

 

[Mario]

German belted back sport coat from the 70's. Sort of flecked Donegal tweed. The exterior fabric is all wool but the lining is synthetic (...). For a 70's jacket it has a rather high button stance.

No pleats and/or bi-swing back. Patch pockets with scalloped flaps. Slightly roped shoulders.

An interesting detail that can also be found on a lot of older (pre-50's) German jackets is the angled shoulder seam.

​

 

[Mario]

I think I'm feeling a bit tipsy... Any chance this thread just got merged with another one? Yes?

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Yes. I think it was merged. I like your jackt. I couldn't tell it was from the 70s. The waist surpression is nice too!

 

[Mario]

Thanks. Got it from the Cinetex guys.

That merger was a strange one. I just hit F5 to refresh and suddenly it all looked so different. As if someone rearranged the room while you turned around.