Peacoat from "Major Coat Company"?

[Longplay]

As in other areas, it would appear that humor is in the eyes of the beholder.

I'm with you, Peacoat, and will leave it at that.

Yes, your last post is helpful. The last two winters we've had in Wheaton (yes, a western suburb of Chicago) have been somewhat mild, but this year we've had a lot of snow and several plunges to zero degrees. I'm an army brat who's lived all over and since I don't have ties to anywhere in particular, I may end up in retirement somewhere around the Smokies (lived in Charlotte for 5 years) and Tennessee is a distinct possibility. Good to hear I could still wear a peacoat there.

 

[Peacoat]

I'm with you, Peacoat, and will leave it at that.

I'm an army brat who's lived all over and since I don't have ties to anywhere in particular, I may end up in retirement somewhere around the Smokies (lived in Charlotte for 5 years) and Tennessee is a distinct possibility. Good to hear I could still wear a peacoat there.

The coldest I have seen here in Middle Tennessee (Nashville) was in 1985. It was -17. On the same day, Knoxville, TN recorded -24. The coldest ever in Tennessee was recorded in Mountain City (East Tennessee in the mountains) at -32. That is well below peacoat weather. So much for the South being a warm place to live.

The good news is that although it does get cold here, the cold usually doesn't hang around very long. Maybe a week or so, then we are back to our standard pattern of lows in the upper teens to lower 20s, and highs in the upper 30s to lower 40s. Temps just right for good peacoat weather.

 

[Spoonbelly]

The coldest I have seen here in Middle Tennessee (Nashville) was in 1985. It was -17. On the same day, Knoxville, TN recorded -24. The coldest ever in Tennessee was recorded in Mountain City (East Tennessee in the mountains) at -32. That is well below peacoat weather. So much for the South being a warm place to live.

The good news is that although it does get cold here, the cold usually doesn't hang around very long. Maybe a week or so, then we are back to our standard pattern of lows in the upper teens to lower 20s, and highs in the upper 30s to lower 40s. Temps just right for good peacoat weather.

Wow! I never knew Tenn. ever got that cold! If I remember right the coldest I can remember was (-10)-(-15) in the late '70s ('77-'79). I'm 60 miles north of the Bronx/Westchester boarder, NY. I did happen to have my first Kersey coat then - a '65 bought at an Army and Navy store. Still have the coat. I had it altered for my younger son and of course he doesn't wear it, but wears his modern day store bought skinny, short one.

 

[Peacoat]

Wow! I never knew Tenn. ever got that cold! If I remember right the coldest I can remember was (-10)-(-15) in the late '70s ('77-'79). I'm 60 miles north of the Bronx/Westchester boarder, NY. I did happen to have my first Kersey coat then - a '65 bought at an Army and Navy store. Still have the coat. I had it altered for my younger son and of course he doesn't wear it, but wears his modern day store bought skinny, short one.

Normally it doesn't get that cold here. So far this year, it has been down to 1 above in my area. We don't usually get much below a few degrees below zero, and that is really cold for us.
It requires the jet stream to dip way down into the Southland for us to get down into single digits or below. When that happens, we are colder than you guys up around NYC. I have several friends in the City, so I frequently check their weather/temp on my phone. When it does get cold here, the good news is, it doesn't last long. Today it will be an almost unbelievable 50+ degrees with the sun shining. NYC will be nice also with a sunny 43. Detroit, however, will have a high of 27 with snow.

Yes, for some reason many of the kids are going for the short skinny look in their peacoat inspired fashion outerwear. Most of the coats aren't substantial enough to keep them warm, but who cares about warmth when one can look cool. My opinion is that it is really hard to improve on the classic look of the vintage peacoat. But then, I am a bit opinionated.

 

[Kingston83]

I finally got around to getting some pictures...

It seems as if this coat is actually a 40R that was tagged as a 38R, at least from the information that I've found when looking at other items sized 40R. The shoulders seem consistent for the most part but I would like to see if they match up to 40Rs of other members. Even though one individual pointed out that a P2P measurement of the shoulders isn't taken into account when sizing pea coats, a 38R with a swollen, draped chest (a style that was popular through the earlier decades) won't fit if the shoulders don't have enough room. Sizing problems that I have with this particular coat are that even though there is enough room in the body for layering, and sufficient room when at rest, movement is limited. I think the issue are having high armscythes with a short half-back measurement (pit seam to half-back). On the other hand I think a 42 might fit me like a sack and be too large. I am thinking more and more about having the back seam let out if there is enough fabric. As it was my father's and I won't be selling it, I'd rather alter it slightly then let it hang in a closet for the rest of its days.

Body Measurements:
Chest: 41.5"
Shoulders (around fullest portion from acromion to acromion): 19"

Tagged 38R
Pit-2-pit: 21.375"
Sleeve length: 24.57"
Point-2-point (shoulders): 19.25"
Length (from collar seam): 31.75"

 

[Peacoat]

looks like a good fit. Better to let it out and wear it rather than not alter, and not wear it.

Yes, the p2p marks it as a size 40, at least in the chest area.

 

[Kingston83]

looks like a good fit. Better to let it out and wear it rather than not alter, and not wear it.

Yes, the p2p marks it as a size 40, at least in the chest area.

How do the rest of the measurements stack up Peacoat? I see that you can get by with a 40 even with a 42" chest measurement. My problem is the arm scythe (sleeve seam) digs into my shoulder. I'm worried that this is just a generously cut 38, similar to a draped suit. All aspects are a 38 (arm holes included) but with a bigger cut in the chest. So if I were to source a 40 I'd have the same problems with the armscythes. Anything similar going on with yours?

Also do you have any experience with vintagetrends.com? Curious as to how they handle their inventory (cleaning, accurate measurements, etc.)...

 

[Peacoat]

I can wear a size 40 with no problems with fit at any part of the coat.

You can tell VT how to measure the p2p, but they will probably do it the way they want, or not measure at all. In the past, when a prospective buyer asked for a p2p, I am convinced they merely took the tag size, divided by two and reported that as the p2p. Also might be a good idea to ask then to hold the coat at an angle to a strong light source, such as a daytime window, and examine each panel individually. This method will show all damage. Not saying that VT is bad, but you just have to stay on top on them. I never have, but I would buy from them. Most of the reviews I have received from people I have sent there have been favorable.

 

[Spoonbelly]

How do the rest of the measurements stack up Peacoat? I see that you can get by with a 40 even with a 42" chest measurement. My problem is the arm scythe (sleeve seam) digs into my shoulder. I'm worried that this is just a generously cut 38, similar to a draped suit. All aspects are a 38 (arm holes included) but with a bigger cut in the chest. So if I were to source a 40 I'd have the same problems with the armscythes. Anything similar going on with yours?

Also do you have any experience with vintagetrends.com? Curious as to how they handle their inventory (cleaning, accurate measurements, etc.)...

I bought 1 coat from VT. I thought the condition wasn't exactly as they had claimed. The coat was still in Excellent shape but it wasn't "mint". At the time (2 or 3 years ago) the price was quite high. I think it was $225.00 (1951 Kersey coat). Today today their prices are HIGH. Excellent - mint condition vintage Kerseys can go for $400.00 - 500.00.

 

[Kingston83]

I bought 1 coat from VT. I thought the condition wasn't exactly as they had claimed. The coat was still in Excellent shape but it wasn't "mint". At the time (2 or 3 years ago) the price was quite high. I think it was $225.00 (1951 Kersey coat). Today today their prices are HIGH. Excellent - mint condition vintage Kerseys can go for $400.00 - 500.00.

I won't debate Kersey vs. Melton as I've been able to compare my coat to an 80/20 Melton coat, but at 400-500 for a mint "like new" pea coat I might be able to convince myself to look past the new material's short-comings. I think I'll take a look on eBay and wait for a 1960s to pop up.

 

[Kingston83]

I can wear a size 40 with no problems with fit at any part of the coat.

You can tell VT how to measure the p2p, but they will probably do it the way they want, or not measure at all. In the past, when a prospective buyer asked for a p2p, I am convinced they merely took the tag size, divided by two and reported that as the p2p. Also might be a good idea to ask then to hold the coat at an angle to a strong light source, such as a daytime window, and examine each panel individually. This method will show all damage. Not saying that VT is bad, but you just have to stay on top on them. I never have, but I would buy from them. Most of the reviews I have received from people I have sent there have been favorable.

Pea coat, thank you for the responses. I think an actual tagged 40 would fit differently from my own. Could you do me a favor and take 2 measurements (half armhole, and half back) of yours? I'd really appreciate it. Modern tailor has a guide in case it is needed: http://www.moderntailor.com/static/mt/men_suit_measureguide.pdf
I'm also going to bring it to a tailor at some point in the next couple of weeks and see what he says. Luckily there is a master tailor a short ride away...

 

[Peacoat]

The 1/2 armhole is 9.5" as best as I can get it. The 1/2 back is 7.75" The problem with the 1/2 back is the measuring point on the armhole is not precise. What I did was go about 1/2 way down the sleeve/armhole sleeve and measure from there. It is probably the shortest space from the seam to the mid back seam.

 

[Kingston83]

The 1/2 armhole is 9.5" as best as I can get it. The 1/2 back is 7.75" The problem with the 1/2 back is the measuring point on the armhole is not precise. What I did was go about 1/2 way down the sleeve/armhole sleeve and measure from there. It is probably the shortest space from the seam to the mid back seam.

Well, I am at a loss Peacoat...

1/2 Arm scythe/hole: roughly 10.25" - 10.5"

1/2 back roughly halfway down the shoulder seam where it meets the left "back panel" seam: roughly 8.5"

1/2 back from the left pit to center seam: ~ 10.5"

 

[Peacoat]

The way you are demonstrating in the first two photos is the way I made the measurements.

The p2p on your coat shows as a size 40. Don't know what happened to the other parts of the coat.

 

[Longplay]

Strike 2

Well, after having to return my second eBay coat, I'm about ready to give up. This last one, a 1949, was in really good condition, but despite confirmations by the seller of dimensions (and his being given instructions on how to measure) the P2P was 19 rather than the stated 21. That's a huge difference.

Of course the wife said, "I told you to get a new one ...". Back to the drawing board...

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, a huge difference. A p2p of 19+" is a standard size 34. A p2p of 21+" would be a size 40. Try again. Don't listen to your wife. What does she know about pea coats?

 

[Spoonbelly]

Well, after having to return my second eBay coat, I'm about ready to give up. This last one, a 1949, was in really good condition, but despite confirmations by the seller of dimensions (and his being given instructions on how to measure) the P2P was 19 rather than the stated 21. That's a huge difference.

Of course the wife said, "I told you to get a new one ...". Back to the drawing board...

I wouldn't give up either. I have bought 12-15 coats on ebay so far. Only a couple were smaller then the posted measurements. Finding a size 40 shouldn't be hard. It's one of the most plentiful sizes. It's unfortunate that the 1949 didn't work out. 1949 is one of the best years. The material on them is beautiful. If you compare a new one one to an old Kersey, you won't want a new one. I wish I had a common size, I'd probably have a room full of them.

 

[Doctor Damage]

^ It becomes an opportunity cost issue.

 

[Longplay]

Yes, a hugh difference. A p2p of 19+" is a standard size 34. A p2p of 21+" would be a size 40. Try again. Don't listen to your wife. What does she know about pea coats?

I measured again today to make sure what it was and it is indeed 19.5", which is the P@P on my early 70s peacoat. Peacoat, wouldn't a P2P of 19+ be a 36 (19+19 = 38 - 2 = 36)?

A question: When I put the coat on over a sweater, the distance from the button shank to the end of its intended buttonhole is about 5.5". If this is a 36, it would seem that the right size would have to be that much bigger in circumference, meaning a P2P of 2.75" more than the 19.5, or 22.25". That P2P would suggest a 42 rather than a 40. Or am I getting something wrong here?

Unfortunately, my chest size, after checking once more, is probably closer to 41 than 40. The 42 I tried was far too large so I guess I'll have to stick with trying a true 40.

As to the wife, you're right, what does she know! And who's paying the bills!

I wouldn't give up either. I have bought 12-15 coats on ebay so far. Only a couple were smaller then the posted measurements. Finding a size 40 shouldn't be hard. It's one of the most plentiful sizes. It's unfortunate that the 1949 didn't work out. 1949 is one of the best years. The material on them is beautiful. If you compare a new one one to an old Kersey, you won't want a new one. I wish I had a common size, I'd probably have a room full of them.

I think I will keep trying for a vintage coat. The condition of this coat was very good; no tears in the lining anywhere, no stains, nice gold corduroy in the pockets, and only missing 2 buttons. The cloth is just like my 70s coat and I do like the look and feel of it.

 

[Peacoat]

Peacoat, wouldn't a P2P of 19+ be a 36 (19+19 = 38 - 2 = 36)?

It would seem so, but it's not so. Just about every size 34 I have received the measurements on, has been 19". I have three of them, one vintage and two current issue, and all three measure 19" at the p2p. Same thing for the size 36 pea coats; they don't measure the way we think they should. When we get to the size 38 and up, the p2p becomes standard again. Don't ask me why, as I have no answer for it.