Good job, and thank you!
Well, I'd first say that our SIZING TIPS on our website do seem to work and that you are on the outside of what would typically work. But there are exceptions that no formula can account for, so I'll present an experienced opinion and you can make your own call on this:
If your actual waist is 36" at it widest point and this is not just a size you where in trousers/jeans, you have a difference of 10" between your waist an chest, which is impressive and also the same difference I have between waist and chest measures; most customers who are 5' 9" tall and weigh 190 lbs. would have a waist measure about 40" or so and would also be fighting the fit in that area as much or more than the chest. Also, most customers at this weight have chest measures of about 44", so the chest is still in reach to fit the size 44.
The math of the jacket and your body is that you would fit in a size 44, no question, in the same way I could wear a size 38 (my chest is 40") and I have done that when I needed to. The size 40 is my choice, and this choice is one that has a bit more to do with the extra length gained in a size 40 vs. a 38. We have a few customers who have a 46" chest measure and who are happy wearing the B-15 jackets from Buzz Rickson's in size 44, so it certainly can be done. But if you are muscular in build, it may create some issues in fit that someone who is not might experience.
My own experience, interestingly, in wearing the size 38 was with a B-15D back when I couldn't get my hands on a size 40 and 38 was all that was available to me and I wanted the style that badly, and as mentioned, the main reason I ended up eventually getting the 40 was for greater length. I have a good friend who has a 46" chest measure and 36" waist measure, muscular in build, and 6' tall, weighing about 215 lbs., and he could wear the size 44, though he chose a 46 in the B-15C when we had that size solely due to the greater room in the shoulder and lats in the 46 and because size 46 was available. The final analysis is that you have a chance to wear this size, but one not better, I'd say, than 50-50.
You indicated you want a roomy fit, too, and I'd say a 44 would give you room, but if we had a 46, that would be "roomy."
The only way we'll know is to try it on you, which is a call only you can make. There won't be any size 46's that I can envision and we are now down to just one size 44 remaining in stock. There you have it ...
Thank you for your thorough analysis. and comments,
yep - It is tough to buy off the rack... I don't like most of the men's offerings in suits for the 10" drop so a suit gets very expensive...
I will take the sage B15D in size 44. Not sure how it compares to a LW B-3 in size 44 but that particular size works for me although I would like a little more in the shoulders...