Opinions on what would best "suit" me?

[brspiritus]

I've been lurking here for awhile and having always been interested in the vintage look I am interested in getting a tailored suit. The problem is I'm a big guy, 6'2" tall 320lbs. So I'm wondering what might look best on me? I definately want to go with some sort of stripe, most likely chalk stripes in a dark brown or gray fabric.

 

[Matt_the_chap]

Don't go for a double-breasted jacket, as they accentuate a large build. Unless you really like that style of jacket - it's all personal preference and if you go to a tailor, they'll be able to advise you well too.

If you take a look here on the fourth picture down (Model 705) there's a pretty good example of a 'Stout' suit - http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...0s-Menswear-Catalogs&highlight=1930s+menswear

Your fabric choice sounds smart though! Any ideas on who you'll get to tailor it? Local or one of the 'e-tailors'?

 

[John in Covina]

Actually, being a big guy myself I can say that a double breasted suit can actually be slimming for some big builds. I think that if you're "portly" meaning a belly that is way way out of proportion to your build then a DB suit will not look good as it won't hang right at all.

Best bet is to go to several places that carry your size and try stuff on that is off the rack to get ideas first.

Remember to wear dress shoes that you might wear with the suit so you can see how it will look. Trying on suits in sneakers, work boots, sandals, slippers or flip-flops will detract and distract from the look.

While you won't be trying the exact design you'll wind up with you will get an idea as to whether a general style will be in the ball park for you. Chances are it will help you steer clear of a bad choice.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Widebrim]

Although as John writes, double-breasted suits can have a slimming effect on some men, I think that matt_the_chap is correct in his recommendation. The key for you is not only getting the correct style, but proper tailoring, so that the suit "drapes" well. I also think that you're on the right track in wanting stripes, as they provide a "pulling down" effect. (If you have time, watch a couple of old films which feature "portly" guys such as Raymond Burr and Laird Crager; you might be able to get some ideas from what they are wearing.) "Good luck," and welcome to the Lounge.

 

[brspiritus]

Thanks for the advice and the words of welcome. Yes I used to own a DB suit and that was back when I topped 400lbs, living in the Philippines for 3 years helped me shed alot of weight. I look at pics of the DB now and I don't look too good in it, bad cut (off the rack) and poly/rayon mix (what was I thinking?) I think I could pull off a DB if I lose more weight and the cut is better (ie 4" lapels as opposed to 2.5" and properly formed shoulders) I had seen that mag before with the #705 and it certainly was influencing my decision to lean towards a 3 piece with 3 button jacket. As for the tailor I'm pretty set on Ravi's Tailor as their fabric selection is pretty good and their prices affordable.

 

[Derek WC]

I'd have to say, that if you wanted the suit to be slimming and look quite dapper at the same time, you should get a three piece suit with the jacket being single breasted 3 button roll 2 with peaked lapels with the 30's general silhouette, having the V-chest. And also 'hollywood' waisted pants are the most comfortable for stout guys(As I would be considered), because that way they don't constrict the movement a whole lot. I'd also have it be a tropical wool at the most, considering you live in Florida, or possibly linen, and pin or chalk stripes.

The really sad thing is that for us hefty men it's difficult to find a good fitting vintage suit.

 

[brspiritus]

I'd have to say, that if you wanted the suit to be slimming and look quite dapper at the same time, you should get a three piece suit with the jacket being single breasted 3 button roll 2 with peaked lapels with the 30's general silhouette, having the V-chest. And also 'hollywood' waisted pants are the most comfortable for stout guys(As I would be considered), because that way they don't constrict the movement a whole lot. I'd also have it be a tropical wool at the most, considering you live in Florida, or possibly linen, and pin or chalk stripes.

The really sad thing is that for us hefty men it's difficult to find a good fitting vintage suit.

I live in Florida but from May through August I work in Dillingham, Alaska as a Night Watchman at a Salmon Cannery so I get to miss out on most of the summer heat in Florida. As this is my first "real" suit I prefer to go with wool as it will look nicer in job interviews and hold up better traveling on Amtrak or long flights. As money allows I can augment my wardrobe with Linen and maybe a Seersucker suit. You're right about vintage suits but at least I can get vintage ascot ties, bowties on the other hand don't seem to go beyond a size 17 neck but I digress. At least the option is open to get a modern tailored suit with 1940's appurtenances.

 

[Derek WC]

In that case, I think that a wool flannel would be nice, because it's quite warm.

 

[brspiritus]

Well I took everyone's advice to heart and last night made a decision on which suit I was going to get. Base price is $425 and after adding Full Hand Basted Canvas Construction, Bemberg Lining w/ stripe on White Sleeves, Mother of Pearl Buttons, Working Sleeve Buttons and Suspender Buttons on the pants the price goes up to $575, not bad considering I paid over $400 for my polyester abomination 4 years ago. I have 4 fabrics under consideration, the 175 and 182, both in Dark Grey, the 184 in Midnight Blue w Bronze Pinstripe and the 186 in Charcoal. All fabrics are 100% Wool in a Spring/Summer/Autumn 8oz weight. Thank you everyone for your words of wisdom.

 

[Big Man]

I think you will be pleased with Ravi's Tailor. I've used them for several years, and have been satisfied with their fit, selection, quality, and price. I'm a "big guy", too (6'-6" and 360 lbs). I almost exclusively wear a three-piece suit, either a gray wool flannel or a navy pin stripe. I do have a couple double breasted suits (one in navy pin-stripe is my favorite) that I like to wear for its "intimidation factor".

I'll be looking forward to seeing pictures of your new suit when it arrives. Please keep us posted.

 

[John in Covina]

Can't wait to see the pictures when it comes in!

 

[brspiritus]

You're gona be waiting awhile, have to get my tax return first lol

 

[Derek WC]

Another suggestion if you're ever looking for another suit custom made to your every whim would be Magnoli Clothiers.

 

[brspiritus]

Another suggestion if you're ever looking for another suit custom made to your every whim would be Magnoli Clothiers.

While I have looked at their offerings and drooled at the possibilities I don't make enough money to be able to afford it right now... ah but one can dream

 

[Derek WC]

It sounded like you spent more dough on the suit from Ravi's tailor than a Magnoli would cost ya.

 

[John in Covina]

Other guys to check out are: Matt Deckard Apparel for suits and also Senator Jack has the Jamaica 66 website. They are higher end and have a great attention to vintage details. But they are not as high as many of the custom suit makers that are well known.

 

[Feraud]

It sounded like you spent more dough on the suit from Ravi's tailor than a Magnoli would cost ya.

Is that a bad thing?

 

[brspiritus]

It sounded like you spent more dough on the suit from Ravi's tailor than a Magnoli would cost ya.

How so? On Magnoli the suit I like best (among many) is the cagney suit, which has a base price of $595 and already we have exceeded the $575 for a Ravi suit. Then there is a $150 upcharge for pure wool fabric. I'm not complaining about prices here and I know you get what you pay for but $575 vs $745? Also I like that I can compare swatches online and see fabric weights/composition on the ravi website.

PS - I haven't bought the suit yet, I'm still taking all options into consideration but I have a wife to bring over to the states this year and the plane ticket will be costly as well as buying her a new wardrobe for the states. Bless her heart though, she is supportive of my new "hobby" and even wants we to get the Peterman canvas/leather spectator shoes.

 

[Derek WC]

Feraud- I never said it was a bad thing, just stating a fact.

brspiritus- I was talking about the custom suits that they make just for you. Some of their already made suits cost more than the bespoke ones. If you like the one from Ravi's tailor, which I do, than that'd be the one to get.

 

[brspiritus]

Ah, I understand now, sorry for the confusion.