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Newbie with a cowboy hat question :)

laf76

New in Town
Messages
2
Location
NC
My neighbor has a hat that was her grandfather's that we cannot indentify. Mind you now, we do not know a thing about hats. This is a black "cowboy" hat that the only thing visible on the inside is a mountain with the words Royalfelt written with a rope around it. Underneath is states The water repellent fur blend. I cannot find this brand anywhere.....so I am thinking it is not a brand. I stumbled upon this site to hope to get any information. Thanks you so much. Lisa
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
Welcome to the Lounge. :)

I'm sure that you'll find plenty of information here, but you've got almost no chance of getting any real help if you don't post a couple of photos of the hat.
 

Mike in Seattle

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,027
Location
Renton (Seattle), WA
You have to post your pix to a photosharing site - the one most frequently used here seems to be Photobucket. Set up an account there and upload your pix. Then post a message here and instead of hitting the web site URL link (icon of earth with a chain link beneath it) choose the picture link - 3rd icon to the right, looks like a yellow square with a mountain. Then insert the link from your photosharing site. I usually have the photo site open in one browser window or browser tab, and the Lounge in another.

With Photobucket, beneath each photo in your album it has links. If you click on the words DIRECT LINK next to the link, it posts it to your Windows clipboard. Then you simply click the icon at the Lounge as described above and hit CTRL-V or EDIT-Paste to insert the link - and you're done...
 

kenbid

New in Town
Messages
13
most of us will get vintage hats from eBay or Etsy. Few of us go to auctions at sothebys. Well heeled people live in large estate homes for many decades. When they pass the estate or kids will often go to the big auction houses to sell everything. There needs to be some anchor pieces such as artwork, paintings, jewelry, silver silverware andcdesireablevfurniture. The auction house comes and carts off everything, books, plates, clothes etc. so there can be hats that were in a closet in a box for half a century or more. If you go to these auctions you might find $7.00 wins a 1940’s. You could also find a few people bidding it up to $200, not all that likely but possible. You need to show up at auction house to examine hat before auction. Then show up to bid. Who has time or inclinations to do thst.

Yes the 30’s to 50’s hats were far superior to modern hats. Yes a mint 1930’s Stetson cowboy would be better than a Stetson 100x and probably better than their 500x, minus jewelry. A 1980’s 5x Stetson or resistol is not in the same league at all.

Here is the problem. Where do you find such a hat? Search eBay and Etsy for an idea. Now the hat needs to be in your size. The hat needs to be in acceptable condition and the color needs to be acceptable. As was pointed out the style and be recreased to suit. So boy have I looked for such hats. They are nearly impossible to find in your size (for me 60,61). Now if you are hoping to find someone who just happens to have one and is selling it for $225, dream on. You are mostly going to encounter dealers. They are to hit you for $1000 and more as a guess. Then you do not know how much restoration was done on the hat, so it might not be original thus diminished quality. Could I argue that 5 resistol hats from 1980’s is better to buy than one older vintage hat. Yes but it is a stupid argument. The practical use value of thev5x hats is for sure but that is not what people want in all cases.

I myself do not believe in buying museum pieces as I call them - approx $1000hats. I try to stay around $400 or less for like a 100x. To me dropping big money on a new hat is not satisfying due to qualty and cost.

Possibly buying a resistor double eagle beaver for what at least $2000 would get you a better hat than a 1930’s hat. They use only the very best parts of beaver pelts to make the hat. Perhaps this is better than any vintage hat that was massed produced and this way you know what you’re getting assuming you do not mind throwing lots of money at a hat. There is lot to be said for having a handful of 1970’s and 1980’s 5x resistols that you can spill coffee on, drop it, touch it with food on hands, bang it getting into car, wear in rain, dust storm, hail, snow, hot sun etc. hats have different purposes. If I was quite wealthy I would buy Stetson diamantés, resistol double eagles and Bailey 200x. I would have a bunch of them and use them as everyday beaters preserving some for events. This would be best of both worlds.Arguably the vintage hats are of excellent build quality but how good are they 70, 90, 90 years later, see my point. People used to store fur coats in climate controlled places. Is not a 100% beaver basically a fur. So when it is an attic or upstairs closet or basement for almost a century why should I assume it is unaffected, illogical thinking.

Then we could talk about custom hats too. I have collected many things over years. I often find top production products are frequently better than customs.not always but often. I have bought several customs on eBay all beaver 100x and in a word they all seem to be most excellent. This is probably the hidden bargain on eBay for high end hats. I never owned a Rand yet. I see them selling used for may than you would pay ar Randy’s ready to online store. I never went to a custom maker and asked them to build a hat out of super good beaver pelts. Is a thought but the price tag would place it in category of museumpiece.

Enough of my rambling on.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
most of us will get vintage hats from eBay or Etsy. Few of us go to auctions at sothebys. Well heeled people live in large estate homes for many decades. When they pass the estate or kids will often go to the big auction houses to sell everything. There needs to be some anchor pieces such as artwork, paintings, jewelry, silver silverware andcdesireablevfurniture. The auction house comes and carts off everything, books, plates, clothes etc. so there can be hats that were in a closet in a box for half a century or more. If you go to these auctions you might find $7.00 wins a 1940’s. You could also find a few people bidding it up to $200, not all that likely but possible. You need to show up at auction house to examine hat before auction. Then show up to bid. Who has time or inclinations to do thst.

Yes the 30’s to 50’s hats were far superior to modern hats. Yes a mint 1930’s Stetson cowboy would be better than a Stetson 100x and probably better than their 500x, minus jewelry. A 1980’s 5x Stetson or resistol is not in the same league at all.

Here is the problem. Where do you find such a hat? Search eBay and Etsy for an idea. Now the hat needs to be in your size. The hat needs to be in acceptable condition and the color needs to be acceptable. As was pointed out the style and be recreased to suit. So boy have I looked for such hats. They are nearly impossible to find in your size (for me 60,61). Now if you are hoping to find someone who just happens to have one and is selling it for $225, dream on. You are mostly going to encounter dealers. They are to hit you for $1000 and more as a guess. Then you do not know how much restoration was done on the hat, so it might not be original thus diminished quality. Could I argue that 5 resistol hats from 1980’s is better to buy than one older vintage hat. Yes but it is a stupid argument. The practical use value of thev5x hats is for sure but that is not what people want in all cases.

I myself do not believe in buying museum pieces as I call them - approx $1000hats. I try to stay around $400 or less for like a 100x. To me dropping big money on a new hat is not satisfying due to qualty and cost.

Possibly buying a resistor double eagle beaver for what at least $2000 would get you a better hat than a 1930’s hat. They use only the very best parts of beaver pelts to make the hat. Perhaps this is better than any vintage hat that was massed produced and this way you know what you’re getting assuming you do not mind throwing lots of money at a hat. There is lot to be said for having a handful of 1970’s and 1980’s 5x resistols that you can spill coffee on, drop it, touch it with food on hands, bang it getting into car, wear in rain, dust storm, hail, snow, hot sun etc. hats have different purposes. If I was quite wealthy I would buy Stetson diamantés, resistol double eagles and Bailey 200x. I would have a bunch of them and use them as everyday beaters preserving some for events. This would be best of both worlds.Arguably the vintage hats are of excellent build quality but how good are they 70, 90, 90 years later, see my point. People used to store fur coats in climate controlled places. Is not a 100% beaver basically a fur. So when it is an attic or upstairs closet or basement for almost a century why should I assume it is unaffected, illogical thinking.

Then we could talk about custom hats too. I have collected many things over years. I often find top production products are frequently better than customs.not always but often. I have bought several customs on eBay all beaver 100x and in a word they all seem to be most excellent. This is probably the hidden bargain on eBay for high end hats. I never owned a Rand yet. I see them selling used for may than you would pay ar Randy’s ready to online store. I never went to a custom maker and asked them to build a hat out of super good beaver pelts. Is a thought but the price tag would place it in category of museumpiece.

Enough of my rambling on.
As a custom hat maker I can say that you overstate the price of custom hats. Like any product the price can vary widely. but there are a number of custom hat makers that will make you a hat out of any number of felts; types, quality and styles and in many cases for about what you would pay for a mass produced off the shelf Stetson et al.
One other source if you have patience is to search out the many "Good Will" type stores that have now adapted online auction sales to broaden their market. I have picked up a few gems in the past few years as have a number of Lounge members.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
most of us will get vintage hats from eBay or Etsy. Few of us go to auctions at sothebys. Well heeled people live in large estate homes for many decades. When they pass the estate or kids will often go to the big auction houses to sell everything. There needs to be some anchor pieces such as artwork, paintings, jewelry, silver silverware andcdesireablevfurniture. The auction house comes and carts off everything, books, plates, clothes etc. so there can be hats that were in a closet in a box for half a century or more. If you go to these auctions you might find $7.00 wins a 1940’s. You could also find a few people bidding it up to $200, not all that likely but possible. You need to show up at auction house to examine hat before auction. Then show up to bid. Who has time or inclinations to do thst.

Yes the 30’s to 50’s hats were far superior to modern hats. Yes a mint 1930’s Stetson cowboy would be better than a Stetson 100x and probably better than their 500x, minus jewelry. A 1980’s 5x Stetson or resistol is not in the same league at all.

Here is the problem. Where do you find such a hat? Search eBay and Etsy for an idea. Now the hat needs to be in your size. The hat needs to be in acceptable condition and the color needs to be acceptable. As was pointed out the style and be recreased to suit. So boy have I looked for such hats. They are nearly impossible to find in your size (for me 60,61). Now if you are hoping to find someone who just happens to have one and is selling it for $225, dream on. You are mostly going to encounter dealers. They are to hit you for $1000 and more as a guess. Then you do not know how much restoration was done on the hat, so it might not be original thus diminished quality. Could I argue that 5 resistol hats from 1980’s is better to buy than one older vintage hat. Yes but it is a stupid argument. The practical use value of thev5x hats is for sure but that is not what people want in all cases.

I myself do not believe in buying museum pieces as I call them - approx $1000hats. I try to stay around $400 or less for like a 100x. To me dropping big money on a new hat is not satisfying due to qualty and cost.

Possibly buying a resistor double eagle beaver for what at least $2000 would get you a better hat than a 1930’s hat. They use only the very best parts of beaver pelts to make the hat. Perhaps this is better than any vintage hat that was massed produced and this way you know what you’re getting assuming you do not mind throwing lots of money at a hat. There is lot to be said for having a handful of 1970’s and 1980’s 5x resistols that you can spill coffee on, drop it, touch it with food on hands, bang it getting into car, wear in rain, dust storm, hail, snow, hot sun etc. hats have different purposes. If I was quite wealthy I would buy Stetson diamantés, resistol double eagles and Bailey 200x. I would have a bunch of them and use them as everyday beaters preserving some for events. This would be best of both worlds.Arguably the vintage hats are of excellent build quality but how good are they 70, 90, 90 years later, see my point. People used to store fur coats in climate controlled places. Is not a 100% beaver basically a fur. So when it is an attic or upstairs closet or basement for almost a century why should I assume it is unaffected, illogical thinking.

Then we could talk about custom hats too. I have collected many things over years. I often find top production products are frequently better than customs.not always but often. I have bought several customs on eBay all beaver 100x and in a word they all seem to be most excellent. This is probably the hidden bargain on eBay for high end hats. I never owned a Rand yet. I see them selling used for may than you would pay ar Randy’s ready to online store. I never went to a custom maker and asked them to build a hat out of super good beaver pelts. Is a thought but the price tag would place it in category of museumpiece.

Enough of my rambling on.


I’m a 61 to 62cm so it’s even harder for me to find vintage hats. In the last decade though I’ve found dozens of vintage (1950s and earlier) hats in my size and I’ve never paid half of what you said they would cost. No, you are not going to find them ever day or every month, but they are out there. Look through the Post New Hats Here thread and you’ll see what we are finding.

No one is saying that the modern era 3-5X Beaver Resistols and Stetsons are not decent hats at good prices. We aren’t saying they aren’t good value. We aren’t saying they should be compared to true vintage or modern custom hats. All I’m saying is they don’t have the attributes that some (most?) of is here at The Fedora Lounge are looking for. I personally own several of the hats you are advocating, but they don’t make me smile like a fine vintage or custom hat does.

I’ve owned (for the intent to se-sale) or otherwise handled some of the top end modern factory hats you’ve mentioned. Even if money wasn’t an option I wouldn’t buy any of them. I would much rather have a vintage Stetson 7X or a custom from a favorite hatter than any diamantés or similar hat.

I too have seen some expensive modern custom hats that have been a big disappointment. Spending a lot doesn’t guarantee you’ll get a great hat. Having lots of “Xs” or felt that is pure beaver etc. does not necessarily mean it’s going to be a good hat. However, if I commission a hat from the right hatters and spend $400-500 I know I’ll get a hat that’s the next best thing to a true vintage. After I have several of the modern era 3-5X Beaver hats finding another doesn’t do much for me. Finding a true vintage or commissioning a fine custom hat is a different story. I’m at the point where I’m not sure n need of a hat to cover my head and keep the sun off me; I’ve got that covered. I’m at the point where I want hats that are interesting or exceptional, and a 1980s Resistol 5X isn’t that hat…not to say that I don’t still buy them to either flip or to add to my rotation of “hard use” hats.
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
most of us will get vintage hats from eBay or Etsy. Few of us go to auctions at sothebys. Well heeled people live in large estate homes for many decades. When they pass the estate or kids will often go to the big auction houses to sell everything. There needs to be some anchor pieces such as artwork, paintings, jewelry, silver silverware andcdesireablevfurniture. The auction house comes and carts off everything, books, plates, clothes etc. so there can be hats that were in a closet in a box for half a century or more. If you go to these auctions you might find $7.00 wins a 1940’s. You could also find a few people bidding it up to $200, not all that likely but possible. You need to show up at auction house to examine hat before auction. Then show up to bid. Who has time or inclinations to do thst.

Yes the 30’s to 50’s hats were far superior to modern hats. Yes a mint 1930’s Stetson cowboy would be better than a Stetson 100x and probably better than their 500x, minus jewelry. A 1980’s 5x Stetson or resistol is not in the same league at all.

Here is the problem. Where do you find such a hat? Search eBay and Etsy for an idea. Now the hat needs to be in your size. The hat needs to be in acceptable condition and the color needs to be acceptable. As was pointed out the style and be recreased to suit. So boy have I looked for such hats. They are nearly impossible to find in your size (for me 60,61). Now if you are hoping to find someone who just happens to have one and is selling it for $225, dream on. You are mostly going to encounter dealers. They are to hit you for $1000 and more as a guess. Then you do not know how much restoration was done on the hat, so it might not be original thus diminished quality. Could I argue that 5 resistol hats from 1980’s is better to buy than one older vintage hat. Yes but it is a stupid argument. The practical use value of thev5x hats is for sure but that is not what people want in all cases.

I myself do not believe in buying museum pieces as I call them - approx $1000hats. I try to stay around $400 or less for like a 100x. To me dropping big money on a new hat is not satisfying due to qualty and cost.

Possibly buying a resistor double eagle beaver for what at least $2000 would get you a better hat than a 1930’s hat. They use only the very best parts of beaver pelts to make the hat. Perhaps this is better than any vintage hat that was massed produced and this way you know what you’re getting assuming you do not mind throwing lots of money at a hat. There is lot to be said for having a handful of 1970’s and 1980’s 5x resistols that you can spill coffee on, drop it, touch it with food on hands, bang it getting into car, wear in rain, dust storm, hail, snow, hot sun etc. hats have different purposes. If I was quite wealthy I would buy Stetson diamantés, resistol double eagles and Bailey 200x. I would have a bunch of them and use them as everyday beaters preserving some for events. This would be best of both worlds.Arguably the vintage hats are of excellent build quality but how good are they 70, 90, 90 years later, see my point. People used to store fur coats in climate controlled places. Is not a 100% beaver basically a fur. So when it is an attic or upstairs closet or basement for almost a century why should I assume it is unaffected, illogical thinking.

Then we could talk about custom hats too. I have collected many things over years. I often find top production products are frequently better than customs.not always but often. I have bought several customs on eBay all beaver 100x and in a word they all seem to be most excellent. This is probably the hidden bargain on eBay for high end hats. I never owned a Rand yet. I see them selling used for may than you would pay ar Randy’s ready to online store. I never went to a custom maker and asked them to build a hat out of super good beaver pelts. Is a thought but the price tag would place it in category of museumpiece.

Enough of my rambling on.

You happen to have joined a group of folks who are well-versed in hat hunting and collecting. Most of the group here have developed sources and methodologies for where and how to find vintage hats and most of us have at least dipped our toes in the custom market. Many of us have quite a few hats and tend to gravitate more toward fedoras than pure Westerns. There are certainly Western wearers around here, but most of us are more excited about finding a 50, 60, 70+ year old brimmed hat of any kind. You just don't see too many of the 70s - 2000s modern westerns on this forum. Well, except for some who like to use them for conversion fodder.

Most of us will hold out for the vintage and go with that.. You would be surprised at how well some of them have held up.
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
No one is saying that the modern era 3-5X Beaver Resistols and Stetsons are not decent hats at good prices. We aren’t saying they aren’t good value. We aren’t saying they should be compared to true vintage or modern custom hats.

I am. :p


Not fond of those hats at all, especially for the price. I'd buy a custom over a new Stetson or Resistol any day.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I am. :p


Not fond of those hats at all, especially for the price. I'd buy a custom over a new Stetson or Resistol any day.


I know you’re just having fun. :cool: I was taking exclusively about the western line. They have the same problems that the fedoras of that era suffer from (mediocre at best felt, poor build quality, etc.). Those weaknesses mean less if you’re looking for a rough use outdoorsy / work hat. They are reasonably durable and don’t look bad.

Resistol 3X pine green Hand Creased circa 1970s:

3025C958-2D55-4ED3-8CAE-99217519FAB4.jpeg
CBFD0860-45B7-4793-A9DD-1433CFFC0C16.jpeg
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,872
Location
Central Texas
most of us will get vintage hats from eBay or Etsy. Few of us go to auctions at sothebys. Well heeled people live in large estate homes for many decades. When they pass the estate or kids will often go to the big auction houses to sell everything. There needs to be some anchor pieces such as artwork, paintings, jewelry, silver silverware andcdesireablevfurniture. The auction house comes and carts off everything, books, plates, clothes etc. so there can be hats that were in a closet in a box for half a century or more. If you go to these auctions you might find $7.00 wins a 1940’s. You could also find a few people bidding it up to $200, not all that likely but possible. You need to show up at auction house to examine hat before auction. Then show up to bid. Who has time or inclinations to do thst.

Where do you find such a hat? Search eBay and Etsy for an idea. Now the hat needs to be in your size. The hat needs to be in acceptable condition and the color needs to be acceptable. As was pointed out the style and be recreased to suit. So boy have I looked for such hats. They are nearly impossible to find in your size (for me 60,61). Now if you are hoping to find someone who just happens to have one and is selling it for $225, dream on. You are mostly going to encounter dealers. They are to hit you for $1000 and more as a guess. Then you do not know how much restoration was done on the hat, so it might not be original thus diminished quality. Could I argue that 5 resistol hats from 1980’s is better to buy than one older vintage hat. Yes but it is a stupid argument. The practical use value of thev5x hats is for sure but that is not what people want in all cases.

Then we could talk about custom hats too. I have collected many things over years. I often find top production products are frequently better than customs.not always but often. I have bought several customs on eBay all beaver 100x and in a word they all seem to be most excellent. This is probably the hidden bargain on eBay for high end hats. I never owned a Rand yet. I see them selling used for may than you would pay ar Randy’s ready to online store. I never went to a custom maker and asked them to build a hat out of super good beaver pelts. Is a thought but the price tag would place it in category of museumpiece.

Enough of my rambling on.

...the group here have developed sources and methodologies for where and how to find vintage hats and most of us have at least dipped our toes in the custom market...

Ebay, Etsy, Goodwill and many other auction sites, thrift stores, resale shops, garage and estate sales, your great uncle...there is no magic formula. In fact, it is very much like fishing. Do the best you can to stack the deck in your favor, but don't expect to catch a winner every time you go out. I have many more opportunities than you (or Brent) based on my 1/8 hat size, but I have gone upwards of a year without finding and buying a vintage hat I was looking for. Other times (like last month), I found three keepers in one week! Take a road trip and talk to a good hatter. There are usually a few in every state in the US. They can help you hone in on a style and vintage period that tends to match your style.

As Fruno and others have suggested, read through the various threads here on TFL. There is a wealth of knowledge burried in these discussions. Ps, you might be surprised at how well preserved some 100 year old hats can be!

Don't get discouraged and enjoy the hunt. It also helps to keep things in perspective. Related to my other hobbies (motorcycles and ham radio), collecting hats is not too bad!

20230418_084516.jpg
 
Last edited:

drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
most of us will get vintage hats from eBay or Etsy. Few of us go to auctions at sothebys. Well heeled people live in large estate homes for many decades. When they pass the estate or kids will often go to the big auction houses to sell everything. There needs to be some anchor pieces such as artwork, paintings, jewelry, silver silverware andcdesireablevfurniture. The auction house comes and carts off everything, books, plates, clothes etc. so there can be hats that were in a closet in a box for half a century or more. If you go to these auctions you might find $7.00 wins a 1940’s. You could also find a few people bidding it up to $200, not all that likely but possible. You need to show up at auction house to examine hat before auction. Then show up to bid. Who has time or inclinations to do thst.

Yes the 30’s to 50’s hats were far superior to modern hats. Yes a mint 1930’s Stetson cowboy would be better than a Stetson 100x and probably better than their 500x, minus jewelry. A 1980’s 5x Stetson or resistol is not in the same league at all.

Here is the problem. Where do you find such a hat? Search eBay and Etsy for an idea. Now the hat needs to be in your size. The hat needs to be in acceptable condition and the color needs to be acceptable. As was pointed out the style and be recreased to suit. So boy have I looked for such hats. They are nearly impossible to find in your size (for me 60,61). Now if you are hoping to find someone who just happens to have one and is selling it for $225, dream on. You are mostly going to encounter dealers. They are to hit you for $1000 and more as a guess. Then you do not know how much restoration was done on the hat, so it might not be original thus diminished quality. Could I argue that 5 resistol hats from 1980’s is better to buy than one older vintage hat. Yes but it is a stupid argument. The practical use value of thev5x hats is for sure but that is not what people want in all cases.

I myself do not believe in buying museum pieces as I call them - approx $1000hats. I try to stay around $400 or less for like a 100x. To me dropping big money on a new hat is not satisfying due to qualty and cost.

Possibly buying a resistor double eagle beaver for what at least $2000 would get you a better hat than a 1930’s hat. They use only the very best parts of beaver pelts to make the hat. Perhaps this is better than any vintage hat that was massed produced and this way you know what you’re getting assuming you do not mind throwing lots of money at a hat. There is lot to be said for having a handful of 1970’s and 1980’s 5x resistols that you can spill coffee on, drop it, touch it with food on hands, bang it getting into car, wear in rain, dust storm, hail, snow, hot sun etc. hats have different purposes. If I was quite wealthy I would buy Stetson diamantés, resistol double eagles and Bailey 200x. I would have a bunch of them and use them as everyday beaters preserving some for events. This would be best of both worlds.Arguably the vintage hats are of excellent build quality but how good are they 70, 90, 90 years later, see my point. People used to store fur coats in climate controlled places. Is not a 100% beaver basically a fur. So when it is an attic or upstairs closet or basement for almost a century why should I assume it is unaffected, illogical thinking.

Then we could talk about custom hats too. I have collected many things over years. I often find top production products are frequently better than customs.not always but often. I have bought several customs on eBay all beaver 100x and in a word they all seem to be most excellent. This is probably the hidden bargain on eBay for high end hats. I never owned a Rand yet. I see them selling used for may than you would pay ar Randy’s ready to online store. I never went to a custom maker and asked them to build a hat out of super good beaver pelts. Is a thought but the price tag would place it in category of museumpiece.

Enough of my rambling on.
Because I refuse to let the size of my head limit my hat-wearing ability, I have asked my hatter to reblock and alter the size of many hats, vintage and modern. The ones that were too small for me have a small piece of leather added to the back of the sweatband, and the ones that were too large have a piece missing.
I have had them all professionally cleaned.
Other than the added piece of leather, I really can't see how the quality of the hats I have bought has been diminished. On the contrary, most have been improved.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
Because I refuse to let the size of my head limit my hat-wearing ability, I have asked my hatter to reblock and alter the size of many hats, vintage and modern. The ones that were too small for me have a small piece of leather added to the back of the sweatband, and the ones that were too large have a piece missing.
I have had them all professionally cleaned.
Other than the added piece of leather, I really can't see how the quality of the hats I have bought has been diminished. On the contrary, most have been improved.
I just delivered a 1950's Royal Scott fedora that the client wanted upsized. It had an unreeded sweat band in decent condition so I added a piece of leather to accommodate the upsize. Sure it is no longer pristine but the client gets to keep an important component of the hat's provenance. I told him if/when the sweat band bites the dust I will then put in a new sweat at no charge. He replied that likely the hat will outlive him so not to worry. He gets to wear a hat he loves. It is a win all round.
 

suitedcboy

One Too Many
Messages
1,348
Location
Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
I have over 30 western hats 100x and up. 3 of them are Northwest hats, 2 are Dorer, and 1 is a Capital Hatters. The others are factory hats. The oldest is 40+ years old (resistol touch of mink) and the newest is a NW hat (Aug 22). The best value by far are the NW hats. 1/2 of these are worn a lot with mild to severe sweat and oil stain. Most are Ebay purchases and the 500X ones in the bunch are worn for dinners and special occasions. Newer ones haven't collected the signs of wear as much. My opinion is that 100% customs from Northwest are great hats and wear well and the oldest NW is 8-9 years old and has been worn a lot and is doing great. The Resistol and Stetson equivalents would cost close to 3 times as much and have lesser sweatbands but more pouncing, machine pouncing, and not hold up as well. Very few people you'd ever encounter would know the difference from 10 feet away between the 500X and 100X/100% beaver.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
I have over 30 western hats 100x and up. 3 of them are Northwest hats, 2 are Dorer, and 1 is a Capital Hatters. The others are factory hats. The oldest is 40+ years old (resistol touch of mink) and the newest is a NW hat (Aug 22). The best value by far are the NW hats. 1/2 of these are worn a lot with mild to severe sweat and oil stain. Most are Ebay purchases and the 500X ones in the bunch are worn for dinners and special occasions. Newer ones haven't collected the signs of wear as much. My opinion is that 100% customs from Northwest are great hats and wear well and the oldest NW is 8-9 years old and has been worn a lot and is doing great. The Resistol and Stetson equivalents would cost close to 3 times as much and have lesser sweatbands but more pouncing, machine pouncing, and not hold up as well. Very few people you'd ever encounter would know the difference from 10 feet away between the 500X and 100X/100% beaver.
Mike is a brilliant hatter.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Mike is a brilliant hatter.


I didn’t like my first Northwest hat at all (pure beaver fedora in whiskey). I was expecting it to be like a vintage hat and easily molded dry and was but off my how stiff/firm the felt was. I avoided him for a couple years. I’ve spent nice ordered a couple westerns from him with the expectation they would be a firm felt. Those last hats were just what I was expecting and I really like them. I have another western in order with him that should be shipping this month! The five month queue is a testament to his success.

When I want a vintage style softer more moldable felt, wether dress or western, I don’t think of Northwest, but when I want a firm modern Western he’s the first guy I think of.

This hat he’s working on now is a Ukrainian pure beaver in granite. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
 
Messages
10,855
Location
vancouver, canada
I didn’t like my first Northwest hat at all (pure beaver fedora in whiskey). I was expecting it to be like a vintage hat and easily molded dry and was but off my how stiff/firm the felt was. I avoided him for a couple years. I’ve spent nice ordered a couple westerns from him with the expectation they would be a firm felt. Those last hats were just what I was expecting and I really like them. I have another western in order with him that should be shipping this month! The five month queue is a testament to his success.

When I want a vintage style softer more moldable felt, wether dress or western, I don’t think of Northwest, but when I want a firm modern Western he’s the first guy I think of.

This hat he’s working on now is a Ukrainian pure beaver in granite. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
Yes, Mike's hats tend to be firmer....even the dress weight. I have never bothered to ask him if he can do a softer hand on his hats.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Yes, Mike's hats tend to be firmer....even the dress weight. I have never bothered to ask him if he can do a softer hand on his hats.


I have asked him if he could make at least the crowns softer. He was not interested in thinking the felt, but he did work to remove some of the stiffeners. The result on that hat was a halfway between his normal stiff hat and say a Gannon. One isn’t better than the other, but they are different.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,872
Location
Central Texas
With limited experience, my Northwest and VS hats seem to be comparable regarding stiff-soft crowns and brims (though I did not ask either for a softer pouncing). Recent Gannon's seem to have the lead in soft crowns and brims. I consider my open crown Gannon "western" a lightweight hat despite it'size.

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Yes, Mike's hats tend to be firmer....even the dress weight. I have never bothered to ask him if he can do a softer hand on his hats.

20230124_072101.jpg
 

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