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New old Buco J22 pics

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17,509
Location
Chicago
Were the originals this long? I thought they were 24” back length? I’ve seen very few m/c jackets of the era in question exceed 24” back. Many are considerably shorter and most around 22”. What’s the length on this one? All the details look right for an original but I can’t recall seeing any original Buco or vintage M/C jacket from any maker quite this long in the body or sleeve. Especially given the OP’s height. That’s what sticks out most to me. I could certainly be wrong...but I don’t remember these in tall sizes either.
 

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,313
Location
Nantes (FR)
Hello friends, the jacket we’re talking about is an original, no doubt.
Congrats for a great find at a decent price (for a Buco in such a good condition)
I own (and have owned) a number of these jackets original and repros including RMC.
And I’ve also collected and studied pictures of Buco models.
A RMC will have a label sewn inside the chest pocket indicating « by the real Mccoys »
The leather. Used is a shinki HH, tea core and very stiff.
The seams are impeccable ( which is no the case on the original above- look at the d pocket sewing)
About the French seams: early bucos had those feature (I had once a J21 with French seams all over)

regarding our friends jacket, abrasion on the hardware do t lie, sloppy seams at some places also, the hide seems black pigment all way through, the collar shape doesn’t seem so symmetrical ...
also the lining is 100% wool (I have original Bucos with the same lining)
So maybe an archive piece from RMC, who knows, but definitely original.

ps: last picture is a LW j23

RMC’s J24
B8A63929-B539-4274-922A-230C70177E90.jpeg
37233476-88E5-4FE0-B1BE-D5D2F82932EC.jpeg

my original J23
85C7C3A2-F844-4EE9-8002-1107766806DD.jpeg
619DA059-BBCD-43CD-B0BA-9420F0151275.jpeg
 

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Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,313
Location
Nantes (FR)
Just as a final word, and regarding questions that I've been asked by fellow member by DM:


The RMC has « DOT » snaps, originals had United Carr.
My J23 has 2 hands warmer pockets on back.
Only the J21 had 1 map pocket.

Buco's advertising
in a 1951 and 1952 catalogues they make the distinction between J22: wool lining and J23: quilted lining, both offered at 24"lengh


I think that no one will ever know precisely the small differences between transitionnal models: 1st tag (white), 2nd tag (brown green writting), 3rd tag (navy blue, gold writting), also multicolor wool lining (some J21/22), Red and Black houndstooth wool lining (J22, J31, J30,...), Checked Plaid lining (j22/23/24/31), and then Rounded passants/epaulets on early models J21/22/30/31..., French seams on early models.
The only option would be time traveling!

Buco catalogue 1951:
IMG_9303.jpg


Buco catalogue 1952:

IMG_9302.jpg
 
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Robbie79

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,163
Thank you to everyone who's been happy to share their knowledge on these jackets - I've certainly learnt a lot. To round things up here's a couple of glamour shots I took while the sun was out. Have a good day all and thanks again View attachment 232164 View attachment 232165
What a fantastic find and deal! Looks beautiful and almost new....my RMC J24 doesn't look better comparing it with your pictures you posted today.
 

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,339
Location
Cleveland, OH
Repro or original, for 1500 GBP it's a score either way. Because if it's an early RMC, possibly NZ, then that jacket is worth even more than that. It's a pure 2000+GBP piece in any case and a tremendously cool jacket. I'd be very happy to own this one way or another.

Agreed. It's an absolute keeper, regardless. If it was a repro I'd almost hold it in higher esteem because the repros are so much better made than the originals. If it's original, it's in amazing condition. Either way, a major score.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
Just as a final word, and regarding questions that I've been asked by fellow member by DM:


The RMC has « DOT » snaps, originals had United Carr.
My J23 has 2 hands warmer pockets on back.
Only the J21 had 1 map pocket.

Buco's advertising
in a 1951 and 1952 catalogues they make the distinction between J22: wool lining and J23: quilted lining, both offered at 24"lengh


I think that no one will ever know precisely the small differences between transitionnal models: 1st tag (white), 2nd tag (brown green writting), 3rd tag (navy blue, gold writting), also multicolor wool lining (some J21/22), Red and Black houndstooth wool lining (J22, J31, J30,...), Checked Plaid lining (j22/23/24/31), and then Rounded passants/epaulets on early models J21/22/30/31..., French seams on early models.
The only option would be time traveling!

Buco catalogue 1951:
View attachment 232690

Buco catalogue 1952:

View attachment 232689

Thanks for the great information on the Buco products!
 

jonbuilder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
J24 came out 1953 as standard with 3rd Label an nylon quilted lining.
I have an original J-24 two-hand warmer pocket and a red and black plaid wool liner. I purchased about 13 years ago and it was in a similar condition to the OP's jacket. It came with a golden brown fur collar which I lost during a move. :( Mine is size 46 and consistent in fit to other original size 46 Buco jackets I own. The early horsehide Buco jackets I own are much heavier than the 60s steer hide J-100 jackets I owned.
Far I know Buco did not produce custom jackets as Cal Leathers did, But i see no reason they would produce a jacket with french seams by special request or maybe
I paid $1,200 for mine with a snip bid on eBay with trigger the reserve. The next bid under me for $1,000.
$1,200 was more at the time than the OP's jacket
 
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jonbuilder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
Just as a final word, and regarding questions that I've been asked by fellow member by DM:


The RMC has « DOT » snaps, originals had United Carr.
My J23 has 2 hands warmer pockets on back.
Only the J21 had 1 map pocket.

Buco's advertising
in a 1951 and 1952 catalogues they make the distinction between J22: wool lining and J23: quilted lining, both offered at 24"lengh


I think that no one will ever know precisely the small differences between transitionnal models: 1st tag (white), 2nd tag (brown green writting), 3rd tag (navy blue, gold writting), also multicolor wool lining (some J21/22), Red and Black houndstooth wool lining (J22, J31, J30,...), Checked Plaid lining (j22/23/24/31), and then Rounded passants/epaulets on early models J21/22/30/31..., French seams on early models.
The only option would be time traveling!

Buco catalogue 1951:
View attachment 232690

Buco catalogue 1952:

View attachment 232689
@ Mysteryo: Thank you for the comprehensive information on Vintage Buco J-21, J-22, J-23, and J-24 jackets. Is there any way to distinguish between a J-24 with a wool plaid lining like the OP's jacket and a Buco J-22?
Did the Buco J-23 also have wool linings as you mentioned in the 1951 and 1952 catalogs Buco make the distinction between J22: wool lining and J23: quilted lining.
The Buco J-21 is a shorter jacket I believe 22"
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
Has anyone thought of Bill Kelso? He will use NOS zippers on request and besides that will reproduce accurate labels for any model.

I would be happy if it were an original but just wouldn’t be surprised if someone pulled a repro manufacturer tag off and sold it as original. But those white tags would yellow after 70 years like Carlos said.

I don’t see the OP’s Buco model on his site but Andy said he has reproduced models that didn’t make it on the website.
He adds details that other repro manufacturers don’t add, like inner tags and look at the stamp on the leather


0B334FDD-4139-47AA-9F43-6C32FF635F8F.jpeg
8D4C2040-6D3C-450E-9A27-F66643EAC2AA.jpeg
 

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Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
Has anyone thought of Bill Kelso? He will use NOS zippers on request and besides that will reproduce accurate labels for any model.

I would be happy if it were an original but just wouldn’t be surprised if someone pulled a repro manufacturer tag off and sold it as original. But those white tags would yellow after 70 years like Carlos said.

I don’t see the OP’s Buco model on his site but Andy said he has reproduced models that didn’t make it on the website.
He adds details that other repro manufacturers don’t add, like inner tags and look at the stamp on the leather


View attachment 441672 View attachment 441673
This is an old thread and been pretty much settled. It is an original. French seam is on early model. Examples can be found. In fact, someone just sold an original J-23 or J-24 with french seams and the 2nd label here a month or so ago.
 
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Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
Thanks I did not even notice because the last few posts were new. I hate when i comment on old threads without looking ‍
 
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