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my visit to the jacket tailor today

jacketjunkie

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2,318
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Germany
That's the best fitted jacket I've seen to date. Ofcourse waisted jackets are not everyone's cup of tea, but it's surely as close to perfection as it can get for what it is. Personally, it would not fit my broad sturdy built, but it looks great on you!

And the pricing tempts to go to Indonesia next holiday. :D
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,843
Location
East Java
@Jacketjunkie, thanks, yes this jacket would be my weight controller/ reminder jacket :D
I'm quite thin at my waist, and has no muscle mass at all to give me the V shape silhouette ... so to get somewhat sporty looking I have to taper my waist lol

while in my city there are not so many leather jacket makers, but in West Java-Bandung, there are lots of them, if you could bring your own hide, and get it made to measure in our country, you could have a full custom jacket at a very interesting price, but if you use local hides, the choices are somewhat limited to what sells in our local market (lots of sheep in many fancy colors mostly finished, and black or brown goat & cow in finished or oil pullup, no horse or other more exotic beasts)

@ProteinNerd, thanks
yes indeed it would make me VERY nervous in unknown territory, with my first jacket I asked how much such alteration would cost me every time they do something on each fitting session like a broken tape, and not getting any clear answer everytime, only to finally got quoted with a very reasonable price in the end...:D

so I tried to save some face and gave them more freedom in perfecting everything this time around, to see if by being much less cost conscious customer, they would do things even better. :)
 

navetsea

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6,843
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East Java
Thanks!
if you ever want to try this jacket maker I'm going, you better bring lots of reference pictures (as they don't have a clue about jacket names/ styles) and if you want any leather other than black cow, goat or sheep, you better source it somewhere first, like I said before, they do tailoring, based on reference, they keep pattern of their past clients to keep their measurement, but they don't have any catalog to choose from other than few jackets on their sample rack mainly mockup from previous orders, but certainly willing to do anything, even modifying existing jacket made by another company.

while those in Bandung are closer to local leather tanneries, and seems like being managed by younger more eager people who are more active at studying newer/ popular models, has a shop and open for custom order as well, and "cheaper"
But I choose this close to home tailor, because it is impossible to get a close fit of totally new design without multiple fitting out sessions, face to face meeting with the pattern guy explaining my drawing and discussing its execution, and I can visit them anytime during working hours without even making appointment, also because I was totally happy with the first jacket they made.
Another big reason is, I don't want my design to be replicated for mass production, which would be the case if I bring it to a more active jacket maker.
 
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Messages
16,803
That's the best fitted jacket I've seen to date. Ofcourse waisted jackets are not everyone's cup of tea, but it's surely as close to perfection as it can get for what it is. Personally, it would not fit my broad sturdy built, but it looks great on you!

:arated:

Navetsea, that's really insanely good looking piece of clothing!
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,843
Location
East Java
Thanks man, best of luck with your hybrid jacket project, hopefully front facing cuff zip would work awesome on yours :D
on my project I made several bad decisions about the sleeve that's why my front/ top zip brought me few small issues:
the sleeve twists toward my thumb because the open cuff rests on it, and the hide is thin goat so the whole sleeve gives in.
 
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16,803
It's got to. It's really the best position for sleeve zippers as far as I am concerned, as they never get in the way, nor do you scratch on things - and best of all, it looks really cool. So I'm looking forward to it. Just hope it'll work on a style I've went with. We'll see.

By the way, awfully quiet now that the trial threads have been silenced.
 

navetsea

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6,843
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East Java
Do you plan it to have a gusseted or completely open V cuff ?
my-jacket-moto2-design-proto21.jpg
this was mine before the edges being folded in and glued, I choose not to have stitched hem, and cuff edges with mine.
 

navetsea

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6,843
Location
East Java
Today, I went there again to decide the spots for eyelets, and snap buttons
from previous fitting there is not much difference really, there is still some point on the sleeve...but I settle with it, the lining is removable, and the leather is thin, once I bring it home, I will apply conditioner first and see how then it behaves, and if I still see some problem I will hand stitch it from inside.

So here I took some photos when I pointed the spot for eyelets, and it was done in the spot with very manual tools... but it got the job done... have no complaints at all.
my-jacket-moto2-design-proto22.jpg my-jacket-moto2-design-proto23.jpg my-jacket-moto2-design-proto24.jpg my-jacket-moto2-design-proto25.jpg my-jacket-moto2-design-proto26.jpg my-jacket-moto2-design-proto27.jpg my-jacket-moto2-design-proto28.jpg
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,843
Location
East Java
my-jacket-moto2-design-proto32.jpg
so, one last request to alter the upper sleeve before I bring it home, luckily I was there when the jacket was ironed, so I gave it a final fitting, and it still presents as problem, and they also see that while before it was suspected to be just a temporary problem after being pressed when being stitched.

a pair of darts on each side of the problem area to taper and solve it, as I have requested it long before, so I'm super happy about the final decision :)

sorry to present yet another weird looking jacket one after another...
mybro-jacket-01.jpg
but this is my little brother's jacket in the making. 1.4mm cow very smooth and soft, with smaller grain, a much softer hide and shinier than mine, I'm sure my brother will love it (much more than I do, I guess they know our difference in taste better than I have expressed it). we are so excited finally this one start being made after the prototype made last month.
 
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16,803
These are awesome and beyond cool! Though, looking at the jackets, it's amazing how your CR seems tame compared to the other one! :D The more I see your CR, more I'm in love with it.

You know, this is relevant to what's being discussed in that other thread. I mean, you sat down and designed this jacket and it is unmistakeably something completely unique, even though it is in actuality a relatively straightforward take take on a classic, existing design.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,843
Location
East Java
Thanks Monitor :)
it was inspired by CR, as I want long and snug CR so bad, but then I tried raglan sleeve to make more flexible shoulder movement, after the raglan shoulder decision was made I could not see how a classic CR/BR stand collar style design fit to it, so I tried this seamless collar and that thing decided the rest of the style into more futuristic. I say those eyelets are air ventilation for tropical climate, but I secretly imagine cables can be jacked into it and connect me to a super robot or something real cartoonish :D

turned out to be a borderline cyberp u n k-ish costume that I could wear everyday :)
 
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16,803
It's cyberp. alright and you know, the eyelets you mentioned, that's exactly what crossed my mind too when I first saw the jacket (back when it was still on paper). lol Only problem is you got to watch not to gain or loose a pound now, but having such a jacket is a good incentive to be careful about that.

These guys went above and beyond with your jacket... I hope they get more work from now on. If I was anywhere near you, they'd have my business.
 

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