My Custom Tailor redux

[Dr Doran]

OK, I know this has been discussed a bit, but I want to discuss it again. I am considering having a suit made for me by mycustomtailor.com.

Why? you ask. Vintage suits ARE available for cheaper ... we complain about spending $300 for a vintage suit, but the quality is worth it and the cut (if it fits) is unbeatable.

Yes, I know that MCT had a button-bleed problem courtesy of Senator Jack's warning thread. - I think that is over now (or at least they now offer horn buttons, which they did not when Senator Jack bought the white suit from them.

Why, you ask, should I have them make a suit, when I can buy a vintage suit for cheaper?

I'll tell you: because:

a.) Apparently they can make suits the way you want them, as evidenced by their descriptions of a 'hollywood style' 3 piece which advertises wide legs and a high waistband on the trousers, plus you can specify in your order that you want your trousers e.g. 12 inches wide at the knees, etc.

and

b.) (most importantly) they have tweeds and other cloths that I doubt very much I will find on a vintage suit, such as the stunner at the top here:
http://www.mycustomtailor.com/preview-fabric.php?fabric_id=2275

Can you imagine getting a whole suit made of this? It's very heavy and they only advertise it for skirt-suits, men's suit jackets, and for overcoats, presumably because they think it is too hot to wear as trousers -- but they'll surely do it if one asks. The color is unbelievably cool. I'd still love a green and white herringbone but until someone makes that, this is the coolest I have seen.

So, who wants to dissuade me so that I have all the pros and cons in hand before I proceed with this project?

 

[Mahagonny Bill]

Why not Magnoli?

Just out of curiosity, if you are going to deal with an online company and want a classic style suit, why MyCustomTaylor and not Magnoli Clothiers?

 

[filfoster]

New for Old

Just out of curiosity, if you are going to deal with an online company and want a classic style suit, why MyCustomTaylor and not Magnoli Clothiers?

I own a half dozen Magnoli suits, including the Casablanca dinner jacket/trousers combination, and like them very much. I have recently got two suits made up by Baron Boutique that are very, very nice, good heavy wool serge material and all the details that I ask, no vents, button fly, suspender buttons, slanted breast pocket, vests with 4 pockets, peaked and wide notch lapels, pleated cuffed trousers, etc.. It seems there are many sources for affordable 'vintage' pattern suits and clothing.

 

[Dr Doran]

Benissimo. Thanks for the leads, gents: I'll look at pricing next.

 

[Feraud]

Two questions so far.

Does MCT accept rise measurements in the process? The claim of "high waistband" doesn't say much if the rise is low to begin with.

What is the weight of that material you are interested in? What someone else thinks is too hot to wear and what you or I may can be very different. If the material is heavy you might want to reconsider a three piece because it may be too warm for regular wear. One of our members had a three piece made in a heavy weight material and he told me in person he doesn't wear it much because of the warmth. Just things to consider..

 

[Selentino]

I've had several suits made by MCT. I've been very pleased with them. I order the Hollywood suit and change it around to get what I want and they have been great to work with and the delivery time was quick. I've tried to order from Indy but never recieved a response back to my questions. this is not a dig at Indy I never did find out if the breakdown in communitcation was on my end or his it was just easier for me to use MCT especially since they come to Seattle sometimes.

 

[filfoster]

Indy response

I've had several suits made by MCT. I've been very pleased with them. I order the Hollywood suit and change it around to get what I want and they have been great to work with and the delivery time was quick. I've tried to order from Indy but never recieved a response back to my questions. this is not a dig at Indy I never did find out if the breakdown in communitcation was on my end or his it was just easier for me to use MCT especially since they come to Seattle sometimes.

I always get a 'next day' response from Indy, around 4 PM EST, I suppose because of the time difference. His delivery times on suits, with only one exception, were good, about a month-six weeks. Baron is faster. I actually had one from them in a week because I asked them to 'rush' and paid for it.

 

[mike]

I always get a 'next day' response from Indy, around 4 PM EST, I suppose because of the time difference. His delivery times on suits, with only one exception, were good, about a month-six weeks. Baron is faster. I actually had one from them in a week because I asked them to 'rush' and paid for it.

We as a website are pretty familiar with Indy's product (much more is made than is documented I imagine) and not particularly familiar with Baron's work.... Can you take some photos please?

 

[Hemingway Jones]

What? The Blue Suit wasn't enough!

 

[filfoster]

PIX

We as a website are pretty familiar with Indy's product (much more is made than is documented I imagine) and not particularly familiar with Baron's work.... Can you take some photos please?

My daughter with the digital is home this weekend. I will try!

 

[mike]

My daughter with the digital is home this weekend. I will try!

Fantastic! Thanks so much! An informed customer is a happy customer, right Doran?

Personally, I think it's possible to have some great experiences out of any and all of these companies. But it never appears to be a certainty.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'd still love a green and white herringbone but until someone makes that, this is the coolest I have seen.

I had your dream suit: a mid 1930s green and white herringbone, double-breasted, three-piece number. Forgotten Man still talks about it!

Unfortunately, I sold it to a guy (an ex-boyfriend of Dita Von Teese, pre-Marilyn Manson) who sold it to his careless friend: the suit ended up being devoured by moths.


.

 

[Dr Doran]

devoured by moths.


.

Devoured. By. Moths. Please kill me.

What do you all think of the fabric swatch that I linked above? The top swatch that is cream and orangeish herringbone. I think it is godlike.

(To Hemingway: The suit you sold me is lovely and fits perfectly, but I also want a heavier tweed of a similar style.)

If a 3 pc ends up being too hot n heavy, I'll wear it sans vest. No biggie. But I want the option. It was about 35 degrees for part of today. In CALIFORNIA.

The weight of the fabric in question is 12 oz. I guess this is a good place to ask: how heavy is that? I have some fairly heavy tweedish early 1940s suits that I like wearing on any day that is not terribly terribly hot (that is not above 84, I mean). Is 12 oz. considerably heavier than these? How can we go about measuring heaviness over the internet? I cannot think of a way. Any ideas?

 

[Dr Doran]

Oh and Feraud, I do not know if they (MCT) offer rise measurements as an option. I know that in their template they offer something that looks like drop loops now, as well as loopless belt with side adjusters -- that's rather nice. Also they offer choices on pocket design and on lining. There are a lot of options now. On the order form there is room to add details, requests, etc.

 

[mike]

I think you're going to be surprised as just how light any ounce modern fabric is in comparison to vintage fabric. Ordering through Bookster or Old Town are probably the two companies that you would have a fighting chance for that not to be the case. BUT as you say, you're in California so going through MCT means you would be able to wear the vest often!

Anyone ever had a repro vest made with knife pleats?

Marc, did you take any photos of that suit you sold?

 

[HungaryTom]

I am "geographically challenged" hence cut off from the vintage clothing market of the New World. So the only way to get a nice suit for me is to go bespoke. Locally. There is one nice fabric shop in Budapest who can recommend good bespoke tailors. Who can order even from a wider range of fabrics (Dormeuil, Holland&Sherry) from their catalogues.

I believe that bespoke can not be surpassed by 60+ years old thrift store items of dead factories. I am even less fascinated of becoming a label victim of designers who are not even tailors.

Every detail is designed and made for you - by the one and the same person who sees you and makes the fittings. In other words the entire suit is all about you... What more can you want?

The fabrics are mostly Dormeuil and other British makers, Italians, nothing less. Specialtex stock cashmere and wool one has to forgo muskox and vicuna, the "fiber of Gods".

As soon as the own divinification is accomplished and gold reserves are on par with Atahualpa Inca the next logical step of upgrading the wardrobe to fabrics from baby vicuna bellyhair can follow . In the meantime one has to satisfy himself with sheep and goat - 8 to 10 microns coarser fibers. Ad astra per aspera.

A bespoke suit costs normally one months salary and it takes a month. It depends of what country's salaries we are talking about... City of London and Vienna are different from ours - so this is why prices also differ. The skill of the individual tailor practicing his trade since decades doesn't. The best thing is that the entire show costs something in the vicinity of 700-800 USD in toto including the fabric. Getting 2-3 is no mission impossible. More aren't needed, this is what the tailor said- one has off the rack suits as well It can't always be caviar. Another thing that speaks against amassing bespoke in one size is that everybody is "oscillating in sizes" i.e. loosing/gaining weight.

There is nothing better than custom made in terms of value for money. Really.

 

[Creeping Past]

The weight of the fabric in question is 12 oz. I guess this is a good place to ask: how heavy is that? I have some fairly heavy tweedish early 1940s suits that I like wearing on any day that is not terribly terribly hot (that is not above 84, I mean). Is 12 oz. considerably heavier than these? How can we go about measuring heaviness over the internet? I cannot think of a way. Any ideas?

12 oz is quite light for tweed but in my opinion feels at least double the weight of the standard thinnish modern suitings, and maybe more. My 'feel' for these things may differ wildly from that of others.

Why not find a tailor and ask if you can go through a couple of fabric books and have a good old feel of the merchandise? You could do that while at a pre-arranged appointment to be properly measured for internet shopping.

I've a suit made of a good 14-16 oz glen check. It's great for winter and autumn wear here in the UK. But it's wearable in summer too, barring our hottest days (above 20C, which is not so hot for some). Trousers in heavy fabric wear better in warmer temperatures than many might think. Jackets less so.

 

[filfoster]

Old Town

I think you're going to be surprised as just how light any ounce modern fabric is in comparison to vintage fabric. Ordering through Bookster or Old Town are probably the two companies that you would have a fighting chance for that not to be the case. BUT as you say, you're in California so going through MCT means you would be able to wear the vest often!

Anyone ever had a repro vest made with knife pleats?

Marc, did you take any photos of that suit you sold?

Last week, I ordered two pairs of trousers from Old Town. I am anxious to see how good they are. They certainly weren't cheap.

BTW, I should have a pic of the Baron suit to post next week. Daughter is home with the cam.

 

[norton]

I looked into mycustomtailor.com and didn't like the info/pictures they sent. I went with mytailor.com and have been very happy. I've bought 4 suits and three sport jackets and don't have any complaints. I meet with Joe in Chicago for measurements and he has a wide variety of fabrics to look at. I haven' bought any vintage styled, but they're willing to work with you.

 

[filfoster]

PIX pox

My daughter with the digital is home this weekend. I will try!

Now I have a pic and can't get it uploaded! Great!