My Custom Tailor redux

[Dr Doran]

 

[Dr Doran]

Sorry about the crapulous quality of the photos. Anyway, there is the vest. I like ITS lapels, and the vest in general, just fine. Then, there is the jacket. As you can see, rather than a 1-button jacket, they made a 3-button, which forces the lapels to be shorter. It's a strange look, but as I may have conveyed, in all honesty I am not sure if I actually dislike it. I may just shut up and keep it.

But y'all's opinion is welcome.

I'm especially interested in knowing if any vintage jackets have this truly short, fat peak lapel. If someone sees one, please post it. I kind of doubt it, but you never know.

 

[Dr Doran]

Et une autre photo

 

[J.J. Gittes]

Those lapels are bizzare. I don't know what to say about them. I wonder how it would've came out as a 1 button... I guess you could send it back if you dont like it since it isn't what you asked for.

 

[Lamplight]

The lapels really are unusual, but they do have a rather vintage appearance even though I can't pinpoint exactly why. In old movies I've noticed quite a few fat lapels on 3-button coats, but they are usually notched lapels. Ronald Colman wears them a lot:

If you can't return the coat, perhaps you could have your tailor remove the peaks? Of course, that's not what you originally wanted either.

*Edit: And I just realized that removing the peaks would completely screw up the button hole.

 

[anon`]

I rather like those, for my part. They are somewhat bizzare, it is true, but they seem particularly Edwardian to my eye. I'd have no qualms with pointing out their error, but hanging onto the jacket just the same.

 

[Dr Doran]

I think I can pull off bizarre OK.

So my tailor pointed out that I can SHORTEN the lapels by pressing them differently; or I can lengthen them by pressing them differently, but then I'll have a button back and a button hole visible on the open, longer lapel ... which rather ruins the effect ...

More opinions? So far I'm headed toward keeping it, but informing MCT that they screwed up.

 

[anon`]

I think I can pull off bizarre OK.

Confirmed.

So my tailor pointed out that I can SHORTEN the lapels by pressing them differently; or I can lengthen them by pressing them differently, but then I'll have a button back and a button hole visible on the open, longer lapel ... which rather ruins the effect ...

Three-roll-two, I think that's called. It doesn't really ruin the effect and was indeed quite popular at times, though I don't believe I've ever seen that style executed with peaked lapels. Though I suppose if the lapels are noticably bellied it would end up looking strange.

 

[Dr Doran]

Confirmed.

Someone's gotta do it.

Three-roll-two, I think that's called. It doesn't really ruin the effect and was indeed quite popular at times, though I don't believe I've ever seen that style executed with peaked lapels. Though I suppose if the lapels are noticably bellied it would end up looking strange.

That's the term -- I had forgotten it.

OK, I'll see if there is precedent for a three-roll-two with peak lapels.

 

[thunderw21]

I like it. Give it a nice roll to the middle button and you're set.

 

[Annixter]

It certainly is an interesting look. I wouldn't say that I dislike it, but I'm just not used to seeing the style. It doesn't appear to clash with you either. I've been looking through the archive catalog scans, and I cannot find anything exactly like it with peaked lapels. However, this scan shows a very similar length and wide lapel, only it has less "swoop" to the lapel and more of a straight cut:

This one looks similar as well, only peakless. Also, look at the jacket to the left, as I believe it is the "three-roll-two" you are looking for:

I agree with thunderw21 that a roll to even the top button, or lower toward the middle, would look great as well.

 

[Dr Doran]

Annixter -- thanks, those seem to be as close as it's gonna get to a precedent. But as Anon` (who knows me fairly well) has noted, I CAN PULL OFF BIZARRE.

but, dammit Jim, aren't there any negative comments? Let's hear 'em!

 

[Mr. 'H']

but, dammit Jim, aren't there any negative comments? Let's hear 'em!

... tumbleweeds....

But hey, the armholes are really high!

 

[Dr Doran]

... tumbleweeds....

But hey, the armholes are really high!

Wasn't tumbleweeds a comic strip? With an indian?

 

[Mr. 'H']

Wasn't tumbleweeds a comic strip? With an indian?

LOL.... not sure! Matt Deckard would be impressed with the armscyes methinks....

 

[Dr Doran]

LOL.... not sure! Matt Deckard would be impressed with the armscyes methinks....

I was SPECIFIC about high armholes and I used both the term

armholes

as well as

armscyes.

 

[mike]

3 button peak lapel seemed like a favorite of Hideki Okisaka, such as:

 

[thunderw21]

Dug this up from my 'archives'. Can't remember who originally posted it, Feraud maybe? Perhaps Marc.

Described as early '40s.

The lapels don't have as much belly as yours but they are close.

 

[mike]

Good one! I've also seen examples of early 1940's 3 button, peak lapeled suit jackets where the lapel is rather pointed and at an extreme angle. I can't locate the images, but they aren't as curved as your suit Doran. I wouldn't alter them since they match the lapeled vest! If the vest didn't have lapels, I'd say you'd have more options. Not that it's needed in my opinion

 

[Dr Doran]

thanks for the several close comparanda, gents. I see that the bellies of my lapels are more curved than e.g. Hideki's jacket, and a bit fatter. Same with the next comparandum.

I don't foresee changing the lapels. I think it's fine.

I wore it to Church of Sinatra last night in SF, and Mark Jordan, a swing scene veteran, said "I love it" twice and used the word "Edwardian." This guy has a huge vintage suit collection that spans 1930s to 1960s and so I value his opinion a lot.

So, looks like it's good the way it is -- no surgery necessary.

Thanks again for all the comparanda pics. Very nice of you guys.