Measure body size

[Carlos840]

I agree with he others. Find a similar jacket and measure it. Any blouson style will do in cotton or nylon, whatever. You will find your ideal back length and sleeve and pit to pit this way. The j100 is generally meant to be worn longer: at your height a 26 inch back would probably work. I am 187cm and chose a 28 inch back. Your build is thin so not that common in anyone over 30. It takes several jackets before,you get fit right in my experience. It took me about 15. But this was in the pre Internet era where advice was thin.

Just to illustrate what i said earlier, i am 6'2 (188cm) with long arms and i wear 26" back and sleeves. You are shorter than me and like 2" more...

That's why IMO just relying on body measurements is a bad idea.

 

[kronos77]

As to what Carlos is saying, you have to take into account your torso to leg proportions. Which is short and which is long.

I have a short torso and long legs at 5'6". There are a few clothing manufacturers who sell clothes for shorter guys. They assume a long torso to short leg proportionally and set the back lengths for the casual, untucked shirts at about 26-26.5 inches. They look ridiculous on me.

Besides that, do not blindly follow rules or standards. The first thing you should see is the gestalt. The whole. Just look in the mirror and ask yourself in the most general terms: "How does this look?". Then get more specific if need be. Otherwise you will convince yourself a certain length or width MUST be right and a bad decision will the result.

 

[Fanch]

I have a short torso and long legs at 5'6". There are a few clothing manufacturers who sell clothes for shorter guys. They assume a long torso to short leg proportionally and set the back lengths for the casual, untucked shirts at about 26-26.5 inches. They look ridiculous on me.

Since I am 8" taller than you, a 26-26.5 inch back works great for me. HOWEVER, standard 25.5 inch arms doesn't as I have looonnng arms and need at least 27 inches there. Probably the best bet for the OP is to make the short trip to Galashiels and try on stuff there. And ... welcome to the Lounge.

 

[handymike]

I'm also 5' 10.5" and 38" chest.
I like 24.5-25" back, and 25" or so arms. Arm length shortens a bit with creasing, so better to get a touch too long than too short on arms- especially if riding.

 

[Harris HTM]

I'm looking for a cafe racer style mostly for normal/casual wear but also for the occasional use on my bike when I don't feel like getting into the full motorcycle gear.
So some that I'm considering is: Aero Cafe Racer/Board Racer, Thedi-x-Thurston Phenix, Schott 141/641hh, Lewis 442/443, Matchless Osborne/Kensington, Langlitz Crescent/Cascade, Belstaff Stannard, Vanson Model B/Comet (or some Buco J-100 like DD or RMC).

As I wrote in my original post I currently don’t own a well-fitting leather jacket, my motorcycle jacket is a Fox Creek Leather Grayson, which is really nice but it's about 2 sizes too big right now (1 size in layering for early spring and late autumn and 1 size in weight loss since I bought it and probably another half size in protective armor). It's a size 42 but it's really hard for me to base a tighter fitting casual jacket on its measurements.

I'm pretty standard build; 5ft 10,5", about 155 lbs, 40" chest, 32,5" waist and I'd say roughly 24-25" arms... so it shouldn't be a problem to find a CR that fits nicely. The problem is that if I shell out around 1000 USD I'd like to fit to be close to perfect, that's why I'm trying to figure out the correct way of measuring all parts of the upper body. Ideally I'd be able to try on a few jackets but the selection is really limited in this country.

Luckily my body is not meant for cafe racers, this has saved me a couple of thousands of euros! All the models you are interested in are perfect jackets, I see you know your stuff! Take into account that if you need the jacket for riding then you probably need a bit longer sleeve length compared to a "fashion" jacket as the sleeves tend to slide back your wrists when holding the bars.
i was recently in the aero factory and tried a couple of jackets. The cafe racer is tapered, wide shoulders and trim waist (the schott 641HH is similar). The board racer has a more straight line (so does 141/641 steer).
In case you don't find any shop to try on a jacket: there is this huge german webshop (zalando) that sells also schotts. I don't know if they deliver to Sweden, but shipping costs are free and you can always return a jacket. You could order one, check fit and measurements, and return it.
good luck with finding the jacket and post updates!

 

[johpe]

I'm also 5' 10.5" and 38" chest.
I like 24.5-25" back, and 25" or so arms. Arm length shortens a bit with creasing, so better to get a touch too long than too short on arms- especially if riding.

I tried to deduce what would be good lengths from my too big Fox Creek and ended up with something similar to what you suggest; 24-25" back and 24,5-25" arms. Since you're 38" chest, do you normally base your jackets on a size 38?

I'm 39" exhale and about 40,2" inhale over the nipples so I guess I should be hunting for size 40, but on some threads I've seen here for the Aero cafe racer and on the Schott forum for their 141 people seem to suggest to size down 1 size since the jackets ate quite wide over dthe shoulders?

 

[johpe]

Luckily my body is not meant for cafe racers, this has saved me a couple of thousands of euros! All the models you are interested in are perfect jackets, I see you know your stuff! Take into account that if you need the jacket for riding then you probably need a bit longer sleeve length compared to a "fashion" jacket as the sleeves tend to slide back your wrists when holding the bars.
i was recently in the aero factory and tried a couple of jackets. The cafe racer is tapered, wide shoulders and trim waist (the schott 641HH is similar). The board racer has a more straight line (so does 141/641 steer).
In case you don't find any shop to try on a jacket: there is this huge german webshop (zalando) that sells also schotts. I don't know if they deliver to Sweden, but shipping costs are free and you can always return a jacket. You could order one, check fit and measurements, and return it.
good luck with finding the jacket and post updates!

Most of my riding will still be done in my Fox Creek which has too long arms for fashion but quite perfect for riding, the new jacket would just be used for casual wear and for short trips on the bike to look cool .

Ordering with the intent of returning has never felt 100% right to me, but it is a good suggestion that I think is used a lot now a days so I will definitely consider this as a good alternative, thanks!

 

[Harris HTM]

Ordering with the intent of returning has never felt 100% right to me, but it is a good suggestion that I think is used a lot now a days so I will definitely consider this as a good alternative, thanks!

yes, I know what you mean, I've never done it as well but I know many many people who do it as a common practice. Regarding the sizing of 141/641, because I have tried both: for 141 you need a size smaller to get the exact same fit as a 641 (steerhide, 641hh is a different story). A size 38 in 141 is the same as a size 40 in 641. For the aero's I cannot say anything apart from that they are really tapered but looking at your body measurements they would probably fit excellent. Are you looking for a jacket with bi-swing back?

 

[johpe]

yes, I know what you mean, I've never done it as well but I know many many people who do it as a common practice. Regarding the sizing of 141/641, because I have tried both: for 141 you need a size smaller to get the exact same fit as a 641 (steerhide, 641hh is a different story). A size 38 in 141 is the same as a size 40 in 641. For the aero's I cannot say anything apart from that they are really tapered but looking at your body measurements they would probably fit excellent. Are you looking for a jacket with bi-swing back?

Thanks for the input! I really have to start trying to find jackets to try on to decide what fits me, especially since in some brands/models I think it would be correct with a size 38 and in others probably size 40.

I should maybe clarify my measurements I gave earlier, the 32,5" waist I wrote is taken just over the bellybutton, I think I've seen this referred to as the "natural waist", but English is not my native language so I could be naming this wrong? My hips or belt line or where my jeans would hang (I don't know what you really call this) is about 35", and I think this is more or less the point where the bottom hem of the jacket would be? From fotos I've seen on the forum of nicely fitting jackets, it seems that most cafe racers should end right at the bottom of the belt, so this is probably an important measure as well to get it right.

 

[navetsea]

the best way to measure is to have someone holding the measuring tape, and a camera on timer, to capture it, send the photos of your measurement especially arm length, and body length

but sometime a cheap mass produced made in China blazer I bought on ebay from China got the best fitting on me and now becomes my official measurement base.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Just to illustrate what i said earlier, i am 6'2 (188cm) with long arms and i wear 26" back and sleeves. You are shorter than me and like 2" more...

That's why IMO just relying on body measurements is a bad idea.

I generally go for around a 26 back too Carlos but in the Buco J100 I like a longer, period look for that pattern. I could probably go with a 27 inch. But I also wear jackets that are 25 inches and are long enough. So it's also to do with the pattern of the jacket and how it sits along with one's own torso length.

 

[Witchtrip]

Hello Johpe,
I'm new to the forum as well, having received excellent advice on my recent inquiries.

Your measuresments are pretty close to mine and I recently went into the Schott store in NYC and tried on 4 styles I was interested in: 530, 141, 641 (HH & steer) and the best fitting jacket of the bunch was the 641 in 38. I'm 5' 11", have a 38 -40" chest, 32-33" at my belt line, so I was pleased that that model ran pretty true to my jacket size. It's the only jacket I will consider purchasing from them as the leather (both HH & steer) are very nice for the money. I'm a total novice on these matters, but I know what fit I like (tailored/fitted) and it was hard not to buy the 641 on the spot (in steer hide. I have a size 38 Aero FQHH on order and that was my restraining power in not buying the Schott.)

Good luck and enjoy your jacket hunting!

 

[johpe]

Hello Johpe,
I'm new to the forum as well, having received excellent advice on my recent inquiries.

Your measuresments are pretty close to mine and I recently went into the Schott store in NYC and tried on 4 styles I was interested in: 530, 141, 641 (HH & steer) and the best fitting jacket of the bunch was the 641 in 38. I'm 5' 11", have a 38 -40" chest, 32-33" at my belt line, so I was pleased that that model ran pretty true to my jacket size. It's the only jacket I will consider purchasing from them as the leather (both HH & steer) are very nice for the money. I'm a total novice on these matters, but I know what fit I like (tailored/fitted) and it was hard not to buy the 641 on the spot (in steer hide. I have a size 38 Aero FQHH on order and that was my restraining power in not buying the Schott.)

Good luck and enjoy your jacket hunting!

Thanks! That's really helpful to know, seems I could be fairly safe with just ordering a 641 size 40 and hope for the best... Really whish I could try and see it first, I'm actually most interested in the brown HH version but the fotos I've seen online isn't very good I'd say.

 

[Witchtrip]

The brown is my color choice but it's a more even color. It's not like the Aero HH with its beautiful glazed depth and slight color variations. A brown 641 is definitely at the top of my leather wish list - the east coast winters are cold and the removable liner in the steer version is great and would be welcome when riding.

 

[johpe]

The brown is my color choice but it's a more even color. It's not like the Aero HH with its beautiful glazed depth and slight color variations. A brown 641 is definitely at the top of my leather wish list - the east coast winters are cold and the removable liner in the steer version is great and would be welcome when riding.

Yeah, I feel that I'd have to see a brown Schott before deciding, from product pictures it seems very uniform.

I would really prefer removable liner in all my leather jacket just so you can wash the liner. But it seems to be quite unusual, which is a pity.

(the removable liner was one of the reasons I went for my Fox Creek motorcycle jacket, I've now had a thin summer liner made for it and I can easily wash both of them when necessary)

 

[Witchtrip]

I totally agree. I did ask about a removable liner in the HH version and the salesman told me to contact the company as they might do a custom order (which would cost more). An interesting option, although probably a trickier process with you being in Sweden.

 

[johpe]

To continue with my measuring and sizing investigations...

When for example measuring your chest to say 40" then the general recommendation is that the labeled size of the jacket should be 40. And on the jacket the general idea (from what I understand) is that the actual measured chest size is about 4" larger (of course depending on manufacturer and model) than the label to account for mobility, lining and leather I suppose.

So my question with regards to this is: how does this apply to your measured shoulder width? If you measure, say 20" of shoulder width, should then the actual jacket shoulder width be about 4" more = 24"? (and same for hip/belt line)

Maybe with some luck you guys that already have well fitting jackets could help me with how this works from a practical perspective? (by measuring some jacket you have)

 

[handymike]

No, shoulder should match...or maybe 1/2" extra for lining thickness. This is why it's best to use a good fitting jacket.
Body measurements are interpreted by makers. If you are going off of listed measurements from a garment, it's best to compare to a garment IMHO.
Your measurements are the hardest thing to get correct, and often take a couple of times to get right.

 

[johpe]

No, shoulder should match...or maybe 1/2" extra for lining thickness. This is why it's best to use a good fitting jacket.
Body measurements are interpreted by makers. If you are going off of listed measurements from a garment, it's best to compare to a garment IMHO.
Your measurements are the hardest thing to get correct, and often take a couple of times to get right.

Thanks for the info.

 

[eugenesque]

Norwegian Air flies from Stockholm to Edinburgh at a decent price. Take a break and head down to Aero to try the fit. Good excuse for a short vacation