Looking to Buy My First Suit :)

[Shangas]

Hey Folks,

I'm looking to buy my very first suit.

Long-story-short:

Big brother's wedding is in about three months (well two months and a bit).

He said I should have a new suit for the wedding.

Now...I already HAVE a suit. But it's BUTT UGLY. I can count the number of times I've worn it on one hand. And that's after nearly 10 years of owning it. That should give you a good idea of how much I can't stand it.

So when the opportunity came up for me to splurge on another suit, I jumped on it.

The first suit I had was something my dad bought for me, without my consent or knowledge, and as a result...I hate it. I HATE IT.

My brother and I went suit-shopping today and I've made up my mind on what I want, but I couldn't find one in my size. Current details I've figured out are...

Colour: Navy Blue / Dark Navy / Midnight blue.

Pieces: Three Piece. This is absolutely non-negotiable. If I'm spending this much money on a suit, it's gonna be a FULL suit. I'm not spending nearly $1,000 to get half a damn suit.

Lapel: Stepped or Notched. Doesn't really bother me.

Breast: Single-breasted. I don't have the body to pull off double-breasted. Plus, a single-breasted suit has more flexibility, I think.

I know all my vital measurements. Inside leg, waist, shoulders, chest, etc, etc. Now I just gotta find the component pieces and put it all together.

Going out suit-shopping again next weekend! Wish me luck!

 

[stratcat]

Sounds good to me.
The only thing I'd add is go for a traditional fit rather than the currently trendy skinny fit (if you can find something in the shops).
Once the fashion for looking like you are wearing a suit that is too small has passed you'll still be able to wear it.
Enjoy your shopping trip, don't forget the shirt, tie and shoes

 

[Shangas]

I'm looking for a classic, traditionally cut suit. I made it clear that this is a suit that I will be wearing for the rest of my life, so it better fit properly! No fashion stuff for me. Style never goes out of style. Fashion changes with the seasons.

I found out I was going suit-shopping today.

I showed up in a white business shirt, necktie, trousers, braces and leather shoes.

My brother showed up in a T-shirt, shorts and flipflops.

And HE's the one getting married.

Oy...

 

[GHT]

Hey Folks, I'm looking to buy my very first suit. Long-story-short: Big brother's wedding is in about three months (well two months and a bit). He said I should have a new suit for the wedding. My brother and I went suit-shopping today and I've made up my mind on what I want, but I couldn't find one in my size. Colour: Navy Blue / Dark Navy / Midnight blue.

Well, congratulations to your brother, and his bride to be. And well done you for giving much thought to your new suit. It's important to get it right because, as you say, it's not just for the wedding.
When I sadly lost my brother-in-law some years ago, I too needed a suit, all my made to measure suits were stylish but not the quiet conservative style one might expect for a funeral. Now that suit hangs forlornly in my wardrobe, all forlorn, unloved and only gets an airing at subsequent funerals.
You have expressed a penchant for a dark blue, that's a classic colour, but don't dismiss other colours and one colour in particular lends itself to accompanying accoutrements, that colour being grey. But that's only a suggestion.
Fitting your new suit is very important, see if there are any waist expanders on the trousers, if not, choose a suit where the pants have just a little more room. Wear those trousers supported by a pair of stylish braces, (suspenders) the creases will be better enhanced and the waist better supported. Now I'm not suggesting that you could become one fat *******, perish the thought, but life and temptation can take it's toll. In years to come, you will be glad of that extra inch or so that was such a forethought, when your suit is still getting admiring compliments instead of hanging in your wardrobe reminding you that you really must try and shed a little weight.
Think how you are going to 'lift' your suit. Maybe a patterned shirt with white colour and cuffs. Perhaps a matching, decorative tie pin and cufflinks. Think about the shoes, plain or brogues, single colour or two tone. A nice pair of Fair Isle socks in matching or contrasting colours. And will you wear a hat? You really need to talk to your brother, it's the happy couple's day, upstaging their outfits is not really fair I'm sure that you would agree. But all in all, enjoy your shopping trips, wear your suit with confidence, have a wonderful time at the nuptials and do come back and show us a photo of yourself all suited and booted.

 

[Shangas]

Thanks for the reply! Wowzah!

I've already taken into account changes in body-size and added that to the measurements accordingly.

And yes, I will be wearing braces with my suit. A belt with a three-piece suit? I'd rather hang myself.

As for the The extras, I haven't fully made up my mind.

I'm thinking a bowtie. Either black or blue. And a white shirt with french cuffs. Cufflinks will be my 9ct gold Edwardian antiques. Pocket jewelry will definitely consist of my watch and chain. I'm seen nowhere without my pocketwatch.

And yes, the bowtie will be one that I tie myself. My brother'll be using a pre-tie, but I insist on doing things properly.

A pocket square may or may not come into play.

I'm uncertain about a hat. It depends on the weather. The wedding is in February. February in Melbourne is variable. Technically, it's summer, but that can mean anything from 20'c all the way up to 40+.

We're hoping for a nice, mild day. If it's REALLY hot, then I'll probably leave the jacket at home and bring the waistcoat. It's for that SPECIFIC reason that I INSISTED the suit *HAD* to be three-piece. Anything else would just be absolutely ridiculous.

My brother's buying a whole new set of shoes for this thing...I dunno. I sure as heck ain't.

I've got a pair of black, leather wingtips which are like my go-to shoes for dressy occasions. So that's what I'll be wearing. May need to polish them a bit. That's about it, really.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

If you're going to spend $1,000 on a suit, it shouldn't be off the peg; at least it should include some alterations if it is off the peg.

Are you buying this only for the wedding, or do you expect to get service from it after the wedding? The dark blues are good, but might not be ideal for wearing in the daytime at some times of the year. Grey suits, or greys that are actually black and white micro checks can offer more flexibility.

A stepped and notched lapel are the same thing, just different words. The other common style is a 'peaked' lapel or 'double breasted lapel' as it used to be called.

The trousers should have enough inlays (extra cloth) in the waist/seat to allow for alterations if and when needed. Most finished ready-to-wear have minimal inlays and in the coat very little at all.

Your waistcoat needs to fit without having to cinch the back adjuster to the point where it looks like a sack tied in the middle with string. This is the curse of the RTW waistcoat. If you can get a good deal on a 2 piece suit, you might consider a contrasting waistcoat made-to-order to obtain better fit, or get the waistcoat with the suit adjusted to fit. There is a strong possibility that there are times when the coat will be removed and the waistcoat has to do duty without looking shabby.

 

[Mathematicus]

I'm with Dirk in saying that if you want to invest on a suit, it's better to look at something made to measure or, if you can afford it, even bespoke.
After the last time I left the duty of dressing to my mother (and it ended in a full day in a polyester unbearable piece of rubbish), I decided that I won't ever buy a NEW suit if not at least made to measure. There are plenty of possibilities to have a decent suit with a decent fit remaining well under 1000 $.
Some time ago I came across the new Suitsupply shop in Milano and talking to the sales people I discovered they offer a full MTM line, with good prices. The fabrics they recommend are ugly (thin and filmsy super 130s) but they have also nice heavier flannels and worsteds. They assured that the style is fully customizable, no skinny legs, no atrofic lapels no hideous two-buttons with high stance. I think I'll give them a try, the day I'll need a new suit.

 

[Shangas]

I don't **seriously** expect the suit to cost $1,000 (I doubt that it will), but that's my rough budget. That budget will include the alterations, I believe.

And I do intend to buy this suit for *more* than the wedding. I'm not spending this much money on a suit to wear it once and never wear it again. It'll become part of my everyday wardrobe.

And yes, I meant notched and peaked. Brainfart! I thought I remembered all my clothing terms.

I have plenty of waistcoats to wear, but I still want a full suit. Finding a waistcoat my size is not something I'm worried about. I know they exist. It's the jacket and trousers where alterations will be made. If I can find a Short jacket, then the only alteration I'll need (once I have the right size) will be in the sleeves. And if I can find trousers my size, then the only alteration will be in the hem - and I can do that myself at home on my Singer.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

And if I can find trousers my size, then the only alteration will be in the hem - and I can do that myself at home on my Singer.

With a Singer? A trouser hem is a hand-sewing job, unless you have a blind-stitch machine at home!

 

[Shangas]

I've always hemmed my own trousers. I mean if it comes as part of the alteration service, then they can do it, but if not, I can do it myself.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

I've always hemmed my own trousers. I mean if it comes as part of the alteration service, then they can do it, but if not, I can do it myself.

I don't doubt it, but I wonder how you will do the hidden stitch required for suit trousers (rather than casual trousers which are often hemmed like jeans) on your Singer at home?

 

[Shangas]

I actually have an old blind-stitch attachment for my Singer. I picked it up at an antique shop.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

It's much easier and quicker by hand. Sewing on the fly buttons takes longer.

Many of the modern toy-looking machines have the same blind-stitch function (you can also do it on many overlockers). Personally I don't think it's anything like as invisible as a hand-sewn blind hem...or a pro blind stitcher, if you have a couple of grand doing nothing in your back pocket! The machine version places the stitches evenly and so it can be more noticeable with indentations; especially if the tension is off.

 

[Seb Lucas]

If you can find a great suit for under $1000 (remember folks, that's Australian money, so take off $300) in Melbourne that would be unusual. I would have thought just under $2000 would get you something a little closer to quality in this city. If you do find a decent suit that will last a lifetime for under $1000 please share the details. I don't wear a suit but I wouldn't mind one in the wardrobe for the emergency occasion where I might need one.

The business people I know who wear suits tend to have them made by Asian tailors who come out here and do the deal in a hotel room. That's when they aren't getting a bespoke Savile Row number from London. They usually get a classic blue pinstripe for around $1500 depending on fabric. Are they any good? I have worn a suit maybe four times in 50 years so I can't really say.

 

[Shangas]

I'm honestly not sure what to expect, but I'll take the best that I can get. I agree that Melbourne isn't exactly my first choice if it comes to getting a suit, but...hey. We'll see what we'll see.

I have BEEN to Saville Row...although only as a tourist! I didn't buy anything. I also went to Jermyn Street nearby, and bought about half a dozen shirts from T.M Lewin. I couldn't possibly afford MTM or Bespoke.

 

[Matt Crunk]

Honestly, if I had a $1000 budget for a suit, there's no way it would be anything but bespoke. The only problem might be your time frame, as bespoke suits can take several months depending on the backlog of the maker. If a bespoke suit was out of the question, then I'd look to Goodwill or other thrift stores for a nice like-new used suit, which can be had for $10 to $15. I see them unworn with original tags all the time, and that price allows for plenty of alteration for a truly custom fit.

 

[Rudie]

Why don't you buy a decent vintage suit?

 

[Shangas]

In Australia? I doubt we'd have any.

 

[GHT]

I couldn't possibly afford MTM or Bespoke.

Really? You will have to convert the currency. Rob Crossley of Rocacha, makes suits between £600 & £750.
Carriage is extra, and it's always worth checking to see if your government slaps on any import duty. Scroll down the page and along the second line of photos you will see me in a brown pinstripe suit, with my name underneath, one Robert Taylor.

 

[Shangas]

750 pounds is like $1,500 AUD. So yeah, can't afford bespoke. But I'll do my best with what I can get.