London leather bonanza

[Bigbenbs]

Hi all, heading to a wedding in Oxford and set up my train schedule so I had a few hours to get my hands on some of the city's excellent leather offerings.

I stopped by the following stores in the following order: 1) Real McCoy's, 2) American Classics (carries Eastman and Buzz Ricksonl, 3) Lewis Leathers, 4) Son of a Stag (carries Freewheelers and Eastman), and 5) Belstaff.

Before I give pictures, here are a few observations.

- The Real McCoy's looked and fit great. But it's shinki did not look or feel to me all that different than Aero's Vicenza. I had a Vicenza jacket with me and the weight, feel, graininess honestly seemed very similar. Also, definitely a well made product, but I was left with the impression that there was little reason to spend all the extra money to get on of their jackets over an Aero.

- Eastman and Buzz Rickson both were great jackets, but I am really starting to feel like flight jackets are not for me. Eastman California halfbelt was a teriffic jacket, though a bit loose in the midsection.

- Lewis Leather jackets looked great and fit super well but felt relatively lower quality, in terms of leather and construction. Probably wouldn't buy one first hand. But one plus is that they do custom sizing for only 25 pounds. Note also that they sized large. A 40 fit much better than a 42 for me and I have a true 42 inch chest.

- Freewheelers were noticeably better than RM. The leather was crazily distinctive and full of character. Drives home the point the Shinki is a tannery and not magic leather. Also the leather felt perfectly heavy and solid. Construction also seemed out of this world. I would think about buying a Freewheelers, as one is paying for an easily discernible leap in quality over an Aero. On point though is that sizing was a bit all over the place. One 42 was too small and another was way too big, though admittedly in different models.

-Belstaf seemed ridiculous, didn't even try on a jacket. Just super light, predistressed lambskin jackets.

Here are some pictures, a few are blurry but I included them so you could see the fit.

Real McCoy's JH 1, size 42


Eastman Californian Halfbelt and A2, 42


Buzz Rickson A1 aviator jacket, 42


Lewis Leathers, 40

 

[Bigbenbs]

Freewheelers A1 and driving jacket (will look up name), 42

 

[Mich486]

Maybe the Eastman Californian works best with your style? Maybe in black if you already have a jacket in brown? The freewheelers also all look amazing.

That jh-1 though... it’s such a cool jacket!


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[Monitor]

Awesome review. Thanks for taking the time to put it down. It's exactly what I was expecting to hear. I haven't handled Freewheelers but just by looking at the photos, you can tell they're in a different level.

LL fits you the best, by the way.

Freewheelers were noticeably better than RM. The leather was crazily distinctive and full of character. Drives home the point the Shinki is a tannery and not magic leather.

Yep, exactly what I was saying the whole time - Shinki produces a lot of different types of leather and you can even spec a batch to your own liking, just as with Horween. Shinki is as quality as you're willing to pay and limited as you want it to be.

RMC is using cheaper Shinki. Freewheelers, High Large, etc. use pricier Shinki.

 

[Bigbenbs]

Awesome review. Thanks for taking the time to put it down. It's exactly what I was expecting to hear. I haven't handled Freewheelers but just by looking at the photos, you can tell they're in a different level.

LL fits you the best, by the way.



Yep, exactly what I was saying the whole time - Shinki produces a lot of different types of leather and you can even spec a batch to your own liking, just as with Horween. Shinki is as quality as you're willing to pay and limited as you want it to be.

RMC is using cheaper Shinki. Freewheelers, High Large, etc. use pricier Shinki.

I know, the LL really did fit me great, it just felt like buying one new was a bit of a rip-off. I mean, 980 euros for a custom motorcycle jacket that's noticeably lower quality construction and leather and hardware than aero?

 

[sweetfights]

Great review. Thanks for taking the time. Appreciated.
Very helpful points made about quality leather vs tannery and the vary of product. Freewheelers looks top notch.
Unless you are there in person, as you were, custom is the way to go.

 

[Monitor]

@Bigbenbs , Well, depends on how you look at it. Objectively speaking, you're 100% right - but - what you're buying with LL is primarily a unique jacket with a lot of history that nobody else on the market is making. Well, aside from straight knock-off's. But take the Dominator, for example, or the Bronx, the Lightning... All of these jackets have a lot of history, if you care for that sort of thing, but that's really what LL is all about. That little tag on the chest, I suppose. A lot of history and an even more myth. And of course a really, really cool fitting jacket that I don't believe that many makers can equal. If any at all.

I'm sure you know this already but Lewis Leathers used to be... Huge. Like, really, really big. Stuff of legends.

As for the material, hardware and construction... I mean, sure, I guess they're not as fancy as some of the others makers but think of them as a 100% accurate repro maker. They're making their jackets the same way they always have and if you're a fan, that's precisely what you'd want from Lewis Leathers.

 

[Bobby Peru]

A few hours well spent! Thank you for sharing.

 

[breezer]

Probably wouldn't buy one first hand

= new

 

[Bigbenbs]

Probably wouldn't buy one first hand

= new

LOL, I was just thinking that I would buy one second hand and that's what came out as the inverse.

 

[willyto]

Ah! A shame you missed a visit to Clutch Cafe where they have some other brands like Buzz Rickson (Other special models), Pherrows, Addict, Belafonte,etc. Also the staff is just fantastic, Ben and the other guy who used to work for Son of a Stag are top notch. I can tell from the selfie at RMC that you met Max

https://clutch-cafe.com/collections/leather-jacket

It's nice to be able to try stuff on, changes the whole thing.

 

[Bobby Peru]

RMC is using cheaper Shinki. Freewheelers, High Large, etc. use pricier Shinki.

I am happy to see this being brought up because I am trying to research the differences in the Shinki hides used by RM and Freewheelers. I have not handled any Freewheelers creations (yet!…but that will be remedied) and I’m not turning up any details beyond differences that one can see in images.

What are the differences between the Shinki hides used by RM and FW? I realize that the tannery will provide hides to the maker’s specs, but I’m trying to understand if this translates to a difference in ‘quality.’

If there is a difference in the Shinki batches based on price, what are the discerning characteristics? Is it a ‘quality’ difference or is it that the hides meet some other criteria specified by RM or FW? For example - texture, graining, uniformity, etc,. that the maker requires.

 

[nick123]

That JH-1, oh baby. Thanks for taking the time to do this!

 

[Superfluous]

RMC is using cheaper Shinki. Freewheelers, High Large, etc. use pricier Shinki.

Please disclose your source for this statement.

 

[Monitor]

I am happy to see this being brought up because I am trying to research the differences in the Shinki hides used by RM and Freewheelers. I have not handled any Freewheelers creations (yet!…but that will be remedied) and I’m not turning up any details beyond differences that one can see in images.

What are the differences between the Shinki hides used by RM and FW? I realize that the tannery will provide hides to the maker’s specs, but I’m trying to understand if this translates to a difference in ‘quality.’

If there is a difference in the Shinki batches based on price, what are the discerning characteristics? Is it a ‘quality’ difference or is it that the hides meet some other criteria specified by RM or FW? For example - texture, graining, uniformity, etc,. that the maker requires.

I'm afraid I haven't handled enough of these jackets to speak of the difference with any certainty. I've only had a chance to see jackets by RMC IRL and one other Shinki A-2, which was considerably nicer. RMC Shinki is very flat and uniform in appearance and doesn't display much grain. But handling all these jackets isn't entirely essential as the difference is clearly visible even in the images. It's hard to believe that both RMC and High Large use the exact same leather for their jackets.

I do know for a fact however that pretty much every high end Japanese manufacturer is using different type Shinki and that these do indeed vary in price. How much, I'm not sure either. As for the quality, there isn't - or should be - any notable difference between the hides, provided we translate quality to durability. It's mostly the aesthetic aspect of the leather that dictates the price tag but as far as the quality goes, all Shinki should be around the same level.

Something that's still under fierce debate is whether a certain types of Shinki leather are being corrected. According to the internet, the type RMC uses is and they indeed are a bit cheaper, of course. Shinki does smooth out some leather. As with any other tannery, the full grain leather will cost more and won't be as readily available as the alternative. At least not at all times. I'm pretty sure the stuff High Large is using is full grain, uncorrected and perhaps even uncoated for certain models.

But nobody can tell you this for sure except for Shinki Hikaku or RMC/Freewheelers/etc.

 

[Monitor]

Please disclose your source for this statement.

Trust me. Also Supertalk/Styleforum.

 

[willyto]

I'm afraid I haven't handled enough of these jackets to speak of the difference with any certainty. I've only had a chance to see jackets by RMC IRL and one other Shinki A-2, which was considerably nicer. RMC Shinki is very flat and uniform in appearance and doesn't display much grain. But handling all these jackets isn't entirely essential as the difference is clearly visible even in the images. It's hard to believe that both RMC and High Large use the exact same leather for their jackets.

I do know for a fact however that pretty much every high end Japanese manufacturer is using different type Shinki and that these do indeed vary in price. How much, I'm not sure either. As for the quality, there isn't - or should be - any notable difference between the hides, provided we translate quality to durability. It's mostly the aesthetic aspect of the leather that dictates the price tag but as far as the quality goes, all Shinki should be around the same level.

Something that's still under fierce debate is whether a certain types of Shinki leather are being corrected. According to the internet, the type RMC uses is and they indeed are a bit cheaper, of course. Shinki does smooth out some leather. As with any other tannery, the full grain leather will cost more and won't be as readily available as the alternative. At least not at all times. I'm pretty sure the stuff High Large is using is full grain, uncorrected and perhaps even uncoated for certain models.

But nobody can tell you this for sure except for Shinki Hikaku or RMC/Freewheelers/etc.

Then it's nothing more than pure especulation. Simple as that. If it is not based on real facts or comes from the source then there's basically no proof of that and thus spreading that RMC uses cheap as in lesser quality Shinki is as bad as raising Shinki to be the top tier of leather jackets without any fact to back it up.

Another forum isn't really a source of information because it's just other users that are also prone to speculation too in order to favor their own interests/preferences in leather or brands.

 

[Monitor]

Then it's nothing more than pure especulation. Simple as that. If it is not based on real facts or comes from the source then there's basically no proof of that and thus spreading that RMC uses cheap as in lesser quality Shinki is as bad as raising Shinki to be the top tier of leather jackets without any fact to back it up.

Another forum isn't really a source of information because it's just other users that are also prone to speculation too in order to favor their own interests/preferences in leather or brands.

It's not cheap nor lesser quality. It's just got different properties that some makers prefer. I've just heard that the leather RMC uses is slightly cheaper to source since it's made in greater abundance compared to the more proprietary hides made to customers specifications. But it's not cheap, no. And it's not inferior in quality or any other way.

But you're right, it's just speculation. Until RMC or Shinki confirms it and since that'll never happen, one way or the other, I guess it doesn't matter. My point was only that Shinki makes a LOT of different leather, some cheaper, some pricier. That's all.

 

[ai00344]

As a Canadian I’m super jealous of your opportunity to actually try these on, must really bring some clairity to what works well with your unique body shape etc. Of the photos provided I think the Freewheelers A1 suits you the best (easy for me to say it’s not my $$). Thanks for the post!

 

[Mich486]

I know, the LL really did fit me great, it just felt like buying one new was a bit of a rip-off. I mean, 980 euros for a custom motorcycle jacket that's noticeably lower quality construction and leather and hardware than aero?

Owning both LL and Aero I don’t think this is objectively true. Construction (stitching/pattern, etc) of LL is certainly not inferior to Aero and the hardware on my Cyclone (and there is a lot of hardware) is pretty damn good (the big Clix main zipper is far more robust than the talon number 5 used on my Highwayman for sure). Leather wise LL isn’t stellar which is the only point in favour to Aero from my perspective. Than obviously LL is LL and you either love its style or hate it in my opinion but the jackets aren’t inferior to Aero jackets at all.


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