lexol Sweatband Goop!

[CaddyKid21]

Ok, so my new old stetson Royal Deluxe's sweatband was a little dry, so i decided to put some lexol on it. I put it n the back, it turned dark and basically ate at the band and turned it to a dark brown goop. I have no idea what the deal is. Has anyone had this happen before. I read in a thread that lexol is best absorbed through the back(not the part that touches your head). What did i do wrong....

Thanks, Caddykid21

 

[Belegnole]

GWD had a problem after using Lexol in this thread

My guess is that the Lexol combines with some other chemical in the band and that's what does it. I did a bunch of research last year on Lexol and didn't ever hear of this happening except here lately on hat bands. Maybe one of the Pros know exactly what's happening.

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

Caddykid, I had pretty much the same thing happen to a few old headbands, it didn't turn into goob but the leather tore like wet paper after having tried the Lexol magic. The result is that my 1930's and 1950's vintage Stetsons now sport a brand new headband. Not that I really mind that much: I prefer to have my stuff in good "working" condition, but of course it does do some damage to the "provable authenticity". Lucky I don't have any authenticity to prove to myself: I wear my hats; they are not an "investment".
Paul

 

[CaddyKid21]

Yeah, it was like a wet sticky paper Pablo, more then a goop....
I only did a part of the band, i cut out the part that turned all nasty so it wouldn't damage the rest of the hat. Well, I was already planning on sending it to Optimo for a new band and cleaning, I was just going to wait until it became a problem.

Dang Lexol.....

CK21

 

[tinmanzzz]

Mink oil

I have always used Mink oil with good results untill recently I had a OR band turn into a drid apple peal.
I figured the seller had used something on it prior to selling???
Add another $40 to the hat.

 

[just_me]

I don't know why it did that, but I'm sort of not surprised it could happen. I've used Lexol sparingly on my tack (saddles, bridles, girths, etc.) for many years and it's pretty well known that you shouldn't get it on any of the stitching. It won't immediately destroy the stitching like it did your sweatband, but it's known to rot the stitching. So, there must be something in Lexol that is reactive to certain things, which must have been in or on the sweatband.

Sorry it happened.

 

[carouselvic]

I think some sweatband are going to fail no matter what you put on them. This hat band looked good to me and all I did was take a spray bottle of water and dampened the felt. I shaped the felt and then put it on and went for a 30 minute walk. Half way through the walk I starter hearing the sweatband popping. I finished my walk and then took a look. It had a least 50 breaks in the band.

 

[HatMagnet]

I've always had good using regular ol' olive oil on leather. It was referred to as sweet oil way back when and either it or sperm whale oil was used for everything from leather goods to firearms.

 

[TopGumby]

Yipes! I was planning to use Lexol on my new Stylemaster when it gets here, now I'm not so sure....

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Sorry that happened to you, but the sweatband is more to blame than the Lexol. It was just 'it's time'. I've read here that Lexol is supposed to only be used on the smooth side of the sweatband - and that it does actually soak in a little. The directions on my container also instruct to wipe off excess and after a brief drying time, buff it. Personally, I have used Lexol diluted with water on the rough side of sweatbands prior to stretching a hat. If the leather is in good shape, it comes through that with no ill effects. If the leather is all used up (even though it may look OK) it's gonna' fall apart one way or the other no matter what you do or don't do.

 

[barrowjh]

I will second what harplayergene said - a sweatband that has dry-rotted can still look good as long as you do not touch it, the effects of the dry-rot do not become evident until you do something, like wearing the hat, stretching it, turning it out to apply lexol, etc. And, there are stages to the dry-rot thing, I have a lot of hats with sweatbands that are 'partially' sick, I've only had to replace about one out of every 6, or thereabouts. I have not had any trouble with lexol affecting the stitching, but I have had dry-rotted sweatbands that will crack/crumble right along the stitching.

 

[scotrace]

Here's yet another plea to not use mink oil, olive oil, neatsfoot oil, or just about any other Golden Era preparation on leathers. I know they did it back then, but they also thought asbestos was a swell idea.

Lexol is a good product - as has been said here, there's a tipping point at which anything you do with cause damage because the leather is beyond saving.

 

[just_me]

Speaking of neatsfoot oil, never use neatsfoot oil compound on leather. If you are going to use neatsfoot oil, use only pure neatsfoot oil.

 

[fluteplayer07]

A good bump to this thread.

I just bought an old Borsalino Colombo, and the sweat is very hard. The leather feels very thin, and very hard and brittle; almost like plastic. I used one layer of Lexol, and it softened up just slightly, barely noticeable at all. Should I keep going?

 

[HatsEnough]

mink oil for me

I have always used minkoil. I use my fingers to rub it in gently and careful not to get it on the stitches. I put it on the back, not the finished side. I have never had a problem with it. I'd guess, though, that some bands are beyond saving. (By the way, been lurking quite a while. I am here in Covington, Louisiana currently.)

 

[fluteplayer07]

Welcome into the Lounge!

 

[fmw]

I agree with Gene. I think the sweat band was simply rotten and in need of replacement.

 

[fluteplayer07]

So what's the difference between leather that is dry rotted, and simply dried out and in need of leather preservatives?

 

[Sam Craig]

Maybe it sounds silly, but when I am applying a chemical to something I will also force up against my skin and possibly sweat into, I think twice about what I use.

Believe it or not, I have ... and I'm talking about over some 30 years here ... I have had my best luck with a good hand or body lotion on real leather sweats.

Of course you have to be patient ... use a little at a time and not get carried away

Apply and let it sink in, rub it clean and then ... later ... try again

It doesn't always work, but I have never seen it make things worse.

Sam

 

[cybergentleman]

no experience with sweatbands on this one, but with other leather goods- vaseline is one of the best moisturizers out there- just work it in