lexol Sweatband Goop!

[gtdean48]

So what's the difference between leather that is dry rotted, and simply dried out and in need of leather preservatives?

Leather conditioner will restore one but not the other....

 

[Sam Craig]

When a sweat is gone ... and they can look good when you first buy a vintage hat because it's just been sitting on a shelf for who knows how long, with the sweat going bad ... it just doesn't have any give left.
At that point, when you put the hat back into use, it's just a matter of time.
The best move is to either put it up to stare at, or get a new sweat put in.
Sad but true.

Sam

 

[John in Covina]

So what's the difference between leather that is dry rotted, and simply dried out and in need of leather preservatives?

I can't say as to how to tell the difference.
The dry rot winds up shattering or turning to dust if you wear it and there's no product that can remedy it.

So the difference is if it is just dried out it will respond well to a conditioner.
If it is rotten it's going to need replacement but you might only figure that out after trying to use the conditioner.

Also a caution never use the car stuff Amorall on items that's stitched, the lubrication properties of the fluid can make it so the stitching will lose friction and pull out easy.

 

[PoohBang]

I don't like lexol as it darkens leather. I really, really like Pecards Antique leather dressing....

 

[mayserwegener]

I don't like lexol as it darkens leather. I really, really like Pecards Antique leather dressing....

I use Bickmore Bick 4 and it also doesn't darken the leather.

http://www.bickmore.com/bickmore/

 

[randooch]

Maybe it sounds silly, but when I am applying a chemical to something I will also force up against my skin and possibly sweat into, I think twice about what I use.

Sam

I agree wholeheartedly. I just called Lexol and got the list of ingredients. Some of them are definitely NOT what I'd want in contact with my forehead. The first is IPBC:

http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/REDs/factsheets/2725fact.pdf

Another of their ingredients is DMDM Hydantoin, discussed here:

DMDM Hydantoin:

These are two of the many preservatives that release formaldehyde (formaldehyde-donors). According to the Mayo Clinic, formaldehyde can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations. Exposure to formaldehyde may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, chronic fatigue, dizziness and loss of sleep. It can also aggravate coughs and colds and trigger asthma. Serious side effects include weakening of the immune system and cancer. Nearly all brands of skin, body and hair care, antiperspirants and nail polish found in stores contain formaldehyde-releasing ingredients.


I think I'll stick with olive oil.

 

[JimWagner]

I don't have any input on restoring a hat band that came to you already dried out or rotted, but I'd think that a hat you bought new and wore fairly often just wouldn't get into that condition because the oils in your skin would transfer to the hat band, preventing it from ever drying out.

A couple of my hats are at least 25 years old and the hat bands are just fine. I've never even been tempted to apply any kind of treatment.

 

[John in Covina]

I don't have any input on restoring a hat band that came to you already dried out or rotted, but I'd think that a hat you bought new and wore fairly often just wouldn't get into that condition because the oils in your skin would transfer to the hat band, preventing it from ever drying out.

I believe it is the salt in the sweat that tends to be a problem. Also some body oils can spoil / oxidize and become acidic. Then there is personal body chemistry. It may also be combined with how the leather was tanned and how it was stored - too hot, too dry, too damp -these may make for the combination that results in a crumbling sweat band.

Of my vintage I have two that had sweats that were shot. My dad's Borsolino, parts of the sweat band looked like beef jerky that had been chewed a little and then allowed to dry. I have a J C Penny's Towncraft silverbelly Open Road clone with a slightly smaller brim that the sweat seemed fine but when I wore it a couple of times the sweat parted where stitching was. I have a couple others where the sweat is in really good condition.