Levis 501 1966 Dd Selvedge

[Dav]

Good evening
Can anyone tell me anything about these jeans as I have never owned a pair of selvedge jeans before.
Are they worth the £99 price?
How much will they shrink?
Will I notice a significant difference in quality from my regular Levis?
I hope this is an appropriate subject for the lounge if not please tell me.
Thanks for any advice
Nick

 

[Graemsay]

I've got a pair of the 1940s style 501s. I don't know if they're the same fabric as the '66s you're looking at, but the denim is a lot heavier and stiffer than the regular jeans.

My guess is that my pair will outlast a regular pair, and by quite some margin. So you might actually get better value for money.

In terms of shrinkage, expect to lose about 2" off the waist and inside leg when you first wash them. So go a size up.

The general advice seems to be don't wash them for six months! That allows them to develop more character.

 

[Papa M]

Hi Nick

Usually you should find that selvedge denim is slightly better quality than non-selvedge.

However - much of the appeal is in the simple aesthetic beauty to be seen when you "cuff" (turn up) the bottom hem in order to expose the Selvedge on the outer leg seam.

If you buy one of the Levi's LVC (Levi's Vintage Collection) you should find a sympathetic cut which will be more traditional than the current normal Levi's cut.

If you buy into this "Heritage Denim Culture" you may suddenly be hooked on some superior quality denim from one of the many Japanese brands who have surpassed Levi's in quality and build, whilst retaining the 501 traditional shape.

If you become interested then I'd be happy to point you in the direction of some superior brands.

Beware - it can become addictive.

 

[pipvh]

I don't know the 1966s, but my last pair of LVC selvedge Levis (they were a sample from just before they started doing the selvedge reissues) is still going strong after 9 years - worn regularly, washed regularly. Just starting to wear through in a couple of places. A pair of Sugar Cane Japanese selvedge jeans have lasted me five years of almost continuous wear practically unscathed except for a beautiful gradual fade.

So yes, well worth the price of admission. The only reason to buy cheap jeans is economy, but you'll buy them often. Buy the good stuff and they'll last for years, and years, and years...

 

[Papa M]

The general advice seems to be don't wash them for six months! That allows them to develop more character.

I don't entirely buy into this "don't wash for six months" theory.

Initially you have to sit in a hot bath whilst wearing the new "raw/dry/deadstock" denim. This allows the surplus starch to be removed and the initial shrinkage to occur whilst the pants mold themselves to your general size. Once they have shrunk to your correct size it is okay to wear them for however long you personally wish prior to the first machine wash.

The secret is that when you do decide to wash them keep it a cool wash with a small amount of detergent (choose a detergent for dark colours). I always add a dessert spoonful of Rock Salt or Sea Salt which helps retain the indigo colour.

The hotter the wash the more it will fade, and the more it will shrink. However most denim tends to stretch out again once you start wearing them. That initial shrinkage of 1.1/2" to 2" will happen on the first soak and first wash. After that they will shrink and stretch out again after each wash.

 

[pipvh]

Plus I'd add that the tumble dryer is more dangerous than the washing machine. Wash on gentle, take them out, fold them lengthwise, smooth out the creases, put back and spin, hang to dry.

Or you could keep 'em in the freezer between wears to keep the funk under control. Ya know, call me old fashioned, but...

 

[Dav]

Thanks for the advice, I'm still a little confused about the shrinkage, the seller told me they wouldn't shrink much at a normal 30 to 40 degree wash but to avoid it to cold hand wash.2" waist and length would require a size up. I suppse the answer is if you hot wash size up if not buy to fit.

 

[JakeHolman]

Gotta agree with PapaM.

Myself, i've been collecting LVC and some of the Japanese repro brands like Sugarcane, Samurai, Ironheart, etc. for several years.

My opinion is that they are worth the money and a year in from wearing them they will have developed a the beautiful patina that you only see on vintage denim.

In my experience i've bought true to size with LVC. Yes, they shrink up after that first soak but fairly quickly stretch out after a few wears and fit just right. I haven't owned the '66 cut, preferring the looser early cuts like the '33 so I can't give you cast iron guarantees. If you want to seek more info i'd suggest going to http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/forumdisplay.php?f=15 where the real denim geeks hang out (they ain't as friendly as here though so watch out )

 

[captaincaveman1]

To properly break in you have to wade into the ocean when the water temperture is between 50 and 70 degrees. Too warm, and they'll shrink too much. Too cool and they won't shrink at all.

Afterwards, dry them by blotting each pant leg with the fur of a 5 year old housecat, preferably one that has been declawed. Too young and the fur will be too soft to add character. Too old and dander will build up in the seams which will subtract character.

To add additional units of character, procure a 5lb bag of volcanic rocks and the blood of a rooster...

 

[Papa M]

To add additional units of character, procure a 5lb bag of volcanic rocks and the blood of a rooster...

Of course if you were riding with Freewheelin' Frank and Sonny Barger of the Oakland Chapter of the Hells Angels you would utilize some entirely different methods of adding character.
Many involved copious amounts of beer, subsequent bowel evacuation, and even more unsavoury behavior whilst gaining your Red Wings (and I don't mean Red Wing boots!).

 

[Papa M]

The secret is that when you do decide to wash them keep it a cool wash with a small amount of detergent (choose a detergent for dark colours).

Absolutely vital: Do the buttons up and turn them inside out during any wash cycle. This will prevent un-natural fade marks.

 

[pipvh]

The Hells Angels Manhattan chapter were my next door neighbours for a while. Certainly some interesting denim patina on show (among other things)...

"I say, old chap - do you keep your jeans in the freezer?" I never asked, but what a missed opportunity for denimology.

 

[Dav]

Thank you for the help I have just ordered a pair,as my mum used to say "you don't know untill you try".

 

[Papa M]

"I say, old chap - do you keep your jeans in the freezer?" I never asked, but what a missed opportunity for denimology.

I've never even bothered trying this Denimista trick.

I still reckon that it doesn't do too much harm to wash denim. In fact there is a small school of thought that suggests that washing is what tightens the thread and actually strengthens the cloth.

 

[pipvh]

I've never even bothered trying this Denimista trick.

Nor have I! Jeans are ultimately just workwear, and that's how I treat them. I'm much more interested in keeping them intact as long as possible than in whiskers and all that stuff. Denimology is fascinating as a spectator sport but I wouldn't want to be sucked in - any deeper, that is.

 

[JakeHolman]

Ah, the Hell's Angels method, as described by Hunter S. Thompson...

“Every Angel recruit comes to his initiation wearing a new pair of Levis and a matching jacket with the sleeves cut off and a spotless emblem on the back. The ceremony varies from one chapter to another but the main feature is always the defiling of the initiate’s new uniform. A bucket of dung and urine will be collected during the meeting, then poured on the newcomer’s head in a solemn baptismal. Or he will take off his clothes and stand naked while the bucket of slop is poured over them and the others stomp it in.

These are his ‘original’, to be worn every day until they rot. The Levis are dipped in oil, then hung out to dry in the sun – or under the motorcycle at night to absorb the crankcase drippings. When they become too ragged to be functional, they are worn over other newer Levis.”

 

[Papa M]

Jeans are ultimately just workwear, and that's how I treat them.

That's probably the most sensible approach. However I personally tend to place my denim in a slightly revered position, much like my leather jackets. It gets used but at the same time I cherish it.

"Wabi-Sabi" as the Japanese denimistas say - the beauty to be found in simplicity.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I just washed my 13.5oz japan selvedge modern jeans after 9 months of wear.
I didnt turn them inside out. :eusa_doh:

I knew one should do that, but I thought it was to preserve color.
I thought washing them normally would just make them less blue.

They got uneven and I wasnt really happy with the result.
They looked almost like an 80´s stonewash

I have however washed them a total of 6 more times right
after one another to see if I could make them lighter
and have the pattern not so extreme.
They are better but not perfect.

I could upload pictures later.

 

[Papa M]

I didnt turn them inside out. :eusa_doh:

That's a bad mistake Griff. Sorry that you have learnt the hard way.

You're gonna have to wear the hell out of them now in order to get them faded right down to a consistent condition.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I searched all over before washing and found nothing about *why*

It all seemed like people were babying the jeans...handwash, special detergent, drip dry etc.
Some said: -just wash them and wear dont worry.
I also have another pair that were made dirty, and when I washed them
"normal" way, the dirt just faded more then when washing inside out.
This made me to believe that washing normal would make the jeans lighter.

It wasnt until just after the wash that I found out that the color will be uneven.


Here is pics:

They look more electric blue in real life. Really intense blue.