Latest Project: Mycustomtailor Suit!

[3PieceSuitGuy]

Hemmingway - thanks for the pics of the vest

overall it is a very nice suit and you wear it well. I have a couple in my wardrobe just like it. It is a modern take on the style shown in the pic.

As for the pic that you ordered it from and having some actual vintage 3 piece suits it does not really come off in the same way as a vintage suit would from the era of pic. The vest should be tighter, shorter length (due to high waisted trousers) and the shoulders should be thinner. It should be 6 buttons and have four pockets. I haven't seen a vintage suit with self fabric backing, they are always rayon, lining material or polished cotton etc. I think the main thing they are showing with the whole look is the nipped in waist of the jacket, and they have a number of 3pc suits that show this on the site.

Don't get me wrong HJ it is a really nice suit, I just don't think it matches the pic, and were I to recieve it expecting a vintage repro suit, I would be disappointed. No offence intended to you at all.

I have often thought that the site should show a lot more detail on the suits, so that you can be sure that you are getting what you want from them, or you provide them with the pics to see if they can replicate it. There are so many details when it comes to ordering a suit! Maybe as an exercise I will take shots of a vintage suit and send them off to them, to see if they could replicate it. That way they would have strong guidelines at to what I want, and if I wasn't satisfied I could say they knew exactly what I wanted.

Cheers

Peter

 

[Senator Jack]

I don't believe they'll ever be able to get the vintage reproduction exactly right over at mycustomtailor. Even before I ordered my suits, I spoke with Ravi himself, discussing high waist, long rise, high armhole, etc., but while I was assured understanding, it seems to me that he really doesn't get it. I think the problem is that only people who wear vintage suits know how a suit should wear.

Having said that, the suits are the closest pieces you're going to get to vintage for that price range. It's not a bad deal to fill in gaps in your wardrobe. I've been looking for a vintage summerweight pinstripe for a long time, and obviously with no luck. My beef is that I had to send it back for major alterations (it took 24 days for them to receive it!) and now by the time they return it, we'll be way into May. (I had wanted the suit for Easter) Will it be right this time? I can only hope so.

But when I returned the suit, I emailed them about 10 pics of a vintage suit with measurements, and I suggest this is what everyone do from now on. Take the suit you want copied - or your best fitting suit - and then, as illustrated below, take a picture of the shoulders, hips, waist, etc.,

You also have to dril it into their heads that these are the EXACT measurements you want.

Apart from that, you should also understand that the higher priced suits do not imply better construction. All construction is the same, it's just the material costs more. The suits DO leave a bit to be desired in that area. The lining isn't as tight as I think it should be, and the buttons are terrible. (Very cheap plastic - I'm thinking of having them all changed when the suits come in.) The zippers, of course, are not the quality zippers that we find on vintage.


In the 'having to get my head checked' department. I recently had myself measured for an Italian suit. I went into Phil's 1908, here in Manhattan, and, unfortunately he showed me another white pinstripe material I couldn't resist. So now I'm having that made. That's supposed to be here within three weeks and I'm very curious to see the difference of construction between Asian and Italian tailors. I did buy an Italian sportcoat he had on sale there, and yes, you can tell there's a big difference in quality, but I want to see how the suit works out on the whole.

I think my last part of this expensive experiment is to go see Joe Hemeranji from MyTailor when he comes in to town. You can make an appointment and have him measure you, and then at least then you can wear the suit you want copied and tell him exactly what you're looking for. Actually, I ought to have thought of this first.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Hemingway Jones]

If one is looking for an exact copy of a vintage suit, you really need to go to the local professional tailor and expect to pay $700 minimum, which is about the price of a Brooks Bros. suit.

I am not an obsessive; counting threads and buttons and looking for talon zippers. I want new clothes, because I won't wear something someone else has worn; it repulses me. Also, the quality of wool in most vintage suits is horrible, as coarse as boiled wool.

For less than $300, this company will provide a vintage flavored suit. Whether it fits and what the service is like, appears to be random. I seem to have lucked out. I would be careful and wary, especially if I wear demanding.

Someday soon, I will go to one of our bespoke tailors and get exactly what I am looking for, but even then, it would be something that I can wear to work. I wear my suits to the office, everyday and they need to meet the requirement of an office setting. Some vintage suits and vintage styles, beautiful as they may be, are not acceptable for a business setting. That's just how it is.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

If one is looking for an exact copy of a vintage suit, you really need to go to the local professional tailor and expect to pay $700 minimum, which is about the price of a Brooks Bros. suit.

I agree. And even then, you might not get what you want. Here in L.A., there are some tailors who do good repro work for the movie studios, but they're NOT cheap ...

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I agree. And even then, you might not get what you want. Here in L.A., there are some tailors who do good repro work for the movie studios, but they're NOT cheap ...

Well, that is convenient!
At least with a bespoke tailor, as you go back for subsequent fittings you can tweak things along.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Sorry for the "me2" post, but I agree very much with you, H. Jones, both about reserves against worn clothes and about the quality preferences of fabrics.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Sorry for the "me2" post, but I agree very much with you, H. Jones, both about reserves against worn clothes and about the quality preferences of fabrics.

I appreciate a little cognative coherence now and again.
Regards,
-HJ

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Another word on this suit, I did not mention:

The pin-stripe pattern meets exactly at the shoulders.

 

[Zach R.]

Do you mind taking a closer picture of the fabric? The one on the site is lacking, its hard to tell the true texture.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Do you mind taking a closer picture of the fabric? The one on the site is lacking, its hard to tell the true texture.

Here you go, Zach. Though remember, you can choose whatever fabric you want.

See how the pattern matches? I love that.

 

[Zach R.]

Thanks.

I ordered the Super 180s in dark blue for mine, according to the site it is in the "Completing" stage and will be despached May 8th.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Thanks.

I ordered the Super 180s in dark blue for mine, according to the site it is in the "Completing" stage and will be despached May 8th.

Excellent. I wish you well with that!
Which hat are you planning on wearing with it?

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Zach R.,

which cut did you choose? (Or have I missed this?)

 

[Wild Root]

Mmmm...

I'm coming in on this late... but, I find this suit interesting. You wear it well Hemingway, and it suits you but, I know more about the suit "they" were trying to copy and they missed the mark by a mile! Here is the full image of the suit they pictured....

Originally, this suit was a belted back style... also; I could bet you 100 bucks that the vest was a six button with four pockets. Every vest to my vintage three piece suits are four pocket with six buttons. Also, the back of the vest shouldn't be of the same fabric as the front... it should be a satin or contrasting color that matches the liner of the jacket. Looking at it as a suit... it fits you and looks good but, as a copy of what they pictured... not even close!

=WR=

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I'm coming in on this late... but, I find this suit interesting. You wear it well Hemingway, and it suits you but, I know more about the suit "they" were trying to copy and they missed the mark by a mile! Here is the full image of the suit they pictured....

Originally, this suit was a belted back style... also; I could bet you 100 bucks that the vest was a six button with four pockets. Every vest to my vintage three piece suits are four pocket with six buttons. Also, the back of the vest shouldn't be of the same fabric as the front... it should be a satin or contrasting color that matches the liner of the jacket. Looking at it as a suit... it fits you and looks good but, as a copy of what they pictured... not even close!

=WR=

Well, I would have preferred had they had that photo, because I rather like the belted back. I have a feeling that they copy by eye and not by pattern, but that is irrelevant now. I am very happy with what I have and I am not about to spend my time counting buttons or pockets I will never use.

Also, as it is, it fits in better at the office, which is another concern of mine. I simply cannot look inappropriate or odd in any way in the eyes of my peers, which always provides a challenge for me to express myself within a very tight constraint. It is much more fun for me to wear these things out of the office, but then, if that's all I did, I would have trouble justifying their price tag.

 

[Zach R.]

Excellent. I wish you well with that!
Which hat are you planning on wearing with it?

Good question, since the only hats I have now are brown and tan. I was thinking about getting a grey Akubra federation, but I dunno if my budget can handle it(I'm saving up to get a pair of Magnoli's spectators at the moment).

As to the cut, its the same as the one HJ ordered(I know, no variety, eh? ) with a single vent in the back.

 

[Wild Root]

Well, I would have preferred had they had that photo, because I rather like the belted back. I have a feeling that they copy by eye and not by pattern, but that is irrelevant now. I am very happy with what I have and I am not about to spend my time counting buttons or pockets I will never use.

Also, as it is, it fits in better at the office, which is another concern of mine. I simply cannot look inappropriate or odd in any way in the eyes of my peers, which always provides a challenge for me to express myself within a very tight constraint. It is much more fun for me to wear these things out of the office, but then, if that's all I did, I would have trouble justifying their price tag.

I’ve worked in an office before… every time I wore an original suit, it went over very well. People don’t even know it’s a vintage suit some times… they ask me where they could by a suit like it.

Like I said, for a suit, it looks good and it fits well, enjoy it and wear it! As for it being a decent copy of the image… it failed. I think if one was to photograph an original suit and email them the photos… they could do a good job. They may just be ignorant about classic/traditional tailoring as so many are today.

Five button vests just seem to far apart for my taste… six is the proper count for a vest… also; I use all my four pockets on my vest. It also just looks so darn cool!

Enjoy your suit bud!

=WR=

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

I use all my four pockets on my vest.

What do you put in? Doesn't it look bulgy very quickly?

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I honestly believe they copy by sight. They ask for photos and claim to be able to copy anything.

I think a belted back and pleats might be a bit much for a modern business context. I do wonder why they have fallen out of fashion; the pleats are so comfortable and the belted back gives you a place to anchor them.

 

[Wild Root]

I've worn a custom made belted back suit on my Mission in Canada where the clothing guide lines are very strict... Every one thought it was the classiest suit in Canada. Also, I've worn a belted back suit to the office I used to work at... no one ever really noticed it until they looked closer. If it's a dark fabric with a nice belt and mild pleats, it's just a classy look that isn't to extreme. People I find like to see something different from time to time and well, I've started to see the belted look on TV some times... it can be a very wild look or a very simple classic look... depends on the style of pleats and such. One should experiment a little and have some fun with their outfits. Every time I’ve worn a belted back suit it’s always well received weather it be a wedding or the office.

=WR=