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Messages
19,409
Location
Funkytown, USA
The hat Givens wore in the novels was not a cowboy hat, it was an Open Road.

In "Pronto," bookie Harry Arno asks his girlfriend, Joyce, if she’s seen anyone odd downstairs. She answers, “‘How about a guy in a cowboy hat? Not the kind country-western stars wear. A small one. Like a businessman’s cowboy hat.’” Harry replies, “‘I know what you mean, the Dallas special … That Stetson, the kind the cops were wearing when Jack Ruby shot Lee Harvey Oswald.”


Lee_Harvey_Oswald_being_shot_by_Jack_Ruby_as_Oswald_is_being_moved_by_police,_1963.jpg
 

RBH

Bartender
Found this on Walton Groggins from 2020.

Apparently he wears hats from Gunner Foxx.
But I dont believe the Justified fedora is a Gunner hat as it has ''the matchstick.''

img.jpg

Jacket by Tunellus. T-shirt by COS. Jeans by A.P.C. Hat by Gunner Foxx. Boots, vintage.
Photography by Sophy Holland. Styled by Nicole Schneider.
 

RBH

Bartender
The hat Givens wore in the novels was not a cowboy hat, it was an Open Road.

In "Pronto," bookie Harry Arno asks his girlfriend, Joyce, if she’s seen anyone odd downstairs. She answers, “‘How about a guy in a cowboy hat? Not the kind country-western stars wear. A small one. Like a businessman’s cowboy hat.’” Harry replies, “‘I know what you mean, the Dallas special … That Stetson, the kind the cops were wearing when Jack Ruby shot Lee Harvey Oswald.”

View attachment 476060
Correct. The fedora used was as I said more in line with what Leonard wanted.
Killing the cowboy hat and Raylan putting on the fedora was a wink in Leonards direction.
 
Messages
19,409
Location
Funkytown, USA
Correct. The fedora used was as I said more in line with what Leonard wanted.
Killing the cowboy hat and Raylan putting on the fedora was a wink in Leonards direction.


Well, it's part of the eternal debate, but I consider an OR a fedora. Unless its been stated by anybody on the show, I didn't see him putting on the dress hat as being a nod to the original, as it's still nowhere near what Leonard described.
 
Messages
11,369
Location
Alabama
And it really illustrates the confusion many have with cowboy hats. I wear OR's a good bit, with several in the cattleman crease. More often than not they're referred to as cowboy hats by the uninitiated.
 
Messages
15,276
Location
Somewhere south of crazy
And what's the difference between a western and an outback?
Ok, guilty confession. My wife started watching the Aussie TV show McLeod's Daughters a couple of months ago and got me interested. While it tends to be a little soap operish, it shows some of the great outback scenery and the struggles of running a cattle and sheep station. It's kind of like an Aussie Dallas, but the characters actually get dirty.
Anyway, there are some really good examples of Akubra hats which all the characters wear. The most common crease seems to be the C-crown, with a medium brim, usually about 3-4". The "cattleman" crease seems to be much less common than the ranch fur felts worn by ranchers here in the States. The hats would serve the same purpose, to protect the ranchers head and face from element exposure, just the creases are somewhat different.
 
Messages
15,276
Location
Somewhere south of crazy
And it really illustrates the confusion many have with cowboy hats. I wear OR's a good bit, with several in the cattleman crease. More often than not they're referred to as cowboy hats by the uninitiated.
If you see pictures of men's hats from the early 1900s through about the 20s and early 30s many of the fedora style hats had alpine or cattleman type creases.
 
Messages
19,409
Location
Funkytown, USA
Ok, guilty confession. My wife started watching the Aussie TV show McLeod's Daughters a couple of months ago and got me interested. While it tends to be a little soap operish, it shows some of the great outback scenery and the struggles of running a cattle and sheep station. It's kind of like an Aussie Dallas, but the characters actually get dirty.
Anyway, there are some really good examples of Akubra hats which all the characters wear. The most common crease seems to be the C-crown, with a medium brim, usually about 3-4". The "cattleman" crease seems to be much less common than the ranch fur felts worn by ranchers here in the States. The hats would serve the same purpose, to protect the ranchers head and face from element exposure, just the creases are somewhat different.

That, and it seems to me outback wearers keep their brim down in the back.
 
Messages
11,369
Location
Alabama
Probably just because it's a good show and fun to talk about.

Now I need a series about US Marshall Carl Webster, a Leonard character set in the 30s/40s that is sort of the predecessor to Givens.
I'm all for that. All this is making me want to re-read some Leonard novels. The Webster ones would be a good start.
 

Who?

Practically Family
Messages
686
Location
South Windsor, CT
Well, it's part of the eternal debate, but I consider an OR a fedora. Unless its been stated by anybody on the show, I didn't see him putting on the dress hat as being a nod to the original, as it's still nowhere near what Leonard described.
Can you expand on that statement, and tell us what your criteria are for designating a hat to be a Fedora?
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
And what characteristics do you use to determine that the Open Road is “not a western“?


I agree with Jim that vintage OR hats were solidly in the fedora camp. The earliest ORs were wide ribbon “traditional” fedoras. In their thin ribbon configuration, they usually came in the same felt, crown height, brim width, and open crown configuration as other fedoras. The thin ⅜” ribbon and different style bow are not enough to move them from under the fedora umbrella. It certainly shared more attributes with fedoras than what we universally classify as westerns. They are able to bridge the the divides between western dress hat, outdoorsy hat, and casual all-purpose fedora. How the owners shaped them played a big part, but it was also how the owners used them and the environment and the rest of the ensemble.

The more modern OR variations with the machine pressed crown shapes are a bit different. These hats with some version of the cattleman’s crease are more western in their vibe. They are usually made from firmer western felt, the brims aren’t made to be snapped, and the crown shapes aren’t meant to be reshaped. This limited the hat to the western dress hat look and moved it away from the fedora.

A great many vintage ORs had diamond, teardrop, center dent, and other fedoras creases and the cattleman crease was just one option if the owner wanted a more western vibe to his fedora. That’s my take anyway.
 

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