Johnson Leather Jacket

[Fifty150]

Coincidentally, Tommy's Joynt is a quick 4 minutes from Johnson Leather. So if you fly into San Francisco, to have Johnson make you a custom pair of leather trousers........ you will need a place to eat, drink, and chill between fittings. By the way, it's perfectly normal for the tailor to touch between your legs, it's how they do the inseam.

You know The Joynt is legit, when there are vending machines in the bathroom.

 

[Entropindigo]

Stopped by JL yesterday to put a down payment on a jacket order for the Mrs. Grabbed a few pics and figured I'd leave em here. As always, top tier customer service (this time from a gentleman named Craig). They just got three new horsehides, CXL

 

[Entropindigo]

 

[Entropindigo]

And their sale selection is 50% off, still quite robust with plenty of sizes

and a huge variety of leathers/colors to choose from for custom makes.

 

[Canuck Panda]

And their sale selection is 50% off, still quite robust with plenty of sizes View attachment 510767 and a huge variety of leathers/colors to choose from for custom makes.
View attachment 510769 View attachment 510770 View attachment 510768

The slim fit Type 3 looks great on you. That leather looks thick and robust.

Thanks for all the photos. Now I practice self control...

 

[Jasonindenver]

And their sale selection is 50% off, still quite robust with plenty of sizes View attachment 510767 and a huge variety of leathers/colors to choose from for custom makes.
View attachment 510769 View attachment 510770 View attachment 510768

I sure hope to hell you bought that trucker. Especially if it was 50% off.

 

[Entropindigo]

I sure hope to hell you bought that trucker. Especially if it was 50% off.

I'm lucky that one was full price! It was a nice 2.5oz horse, really supple with no break in. I've had my eye on the 4oz cxl steer half belt, too, but I am on a "moratorium" until my wife's jacket shows up (we were there ordering hers).

 

[Gr8Lakes]

@Canuck Panda @Rugby I’d like to just tap your brain if if I could. I just received some black leather samples from Damon. I love the cxlhh overdye, of course. Do either of you happen to have any pics how the leather develops? I’m actually surprised how plastic it looks out of the gate! Also curious how much time invested is required to get an overdye jacket to loosen up, or become pliable. The current selection is 3.25 oz.

Of the five samples, I like the potential of the overdye best. But I kinda like a 3.5 oz. steerhide called Cavalier too. It’s reminiscent of Schott’s 141 or 118 leather. It’s soft, pliable, and has a matte finish. I imagine it would be a nice flexible, warm riding jacket right out of the gate. I originally purchased a 141, but had to return it because of it’s short arm length. So a similar leather is a contender.

I mentioned warm, because I’m curious about your experience with the overdye CXL. Does it get stiffer and cold feeling when temperature is lower? I have an uninsulated leather jacket that does that, and it’s not so comfortable under 50*F. (I’m planning on the quilted nylon lining for this build, so it’ll be a little bit insulated).

I’ll include a few pics of the leather samples in the next post. I’m too lazy to send them to my iPad from my phone.

 

[Gr8Lakes]

Here's the 5 Damon has on hand. . From left: (#1) is the Black Cavelier Steerhide, 3.5 oz. that's similar to Schott's 141/118. Smooth, matte finish that's soft to the touch. Not very interesting, but still very nice. Kinda classy looking. (#2) is Kampelli Steerhide, 3.5 oz. It's large pebbled, super soft, and very pliable. This is what I imagine when people say "buttery." Like rub it on your cheek soft. Smells good too. (#3) is the Horween CXL Overdye Horsehide 3-3.25 oz. A little stiff & waxy feeling with a lot of shine. Delicious CXL smell! Most potential, but probably looks like a jacket made out of a trash bag on day one. However, in a few years it’s going to look better than anything else - legacy jacket. Comes with an up-charge of about 300 beans. (4) Biker Black Steerhide, 3.5 oz. It's smaller pebbled, pliable and kinda soft, but not as soft as 1 or 2. Feels rugged, but kinda rubbery. Reminds me a little of Vanson's Firenze, and I think a jacket would squeak (sample squeaks). (5) Midnight Black Steerhide, 3.25-3.5 oz. Smooth. Lots of shine, even more than 3. Feels kinda like CXL but a little more pliable. My least favorite initially, but the grain that shows after it's folded stays. I'm guessing this would develop some amazing grain with use, and probably kinda quickly and easily. A little squeaky, don't know if that would improve or worsen.

If not the Horween, I'd choose this for it's matte finish and smooth soft touch. Especially since I originally wanted a Schott 141, but couldn't find a good fit.

Midnight Black Steerhide after wadding into a ball, squeezing, then lying flat. This stuff has some serious potential. Kinda shocking. Softer now too. This would break in super fast in my opinion. (Might squeak).

Horween CXL next to the two soft Steerhides.

These two are the softest, and would probably feel like a sweatshirt from day one. No break in needed.

 

[Entropindigo]

I was really impressed by the black overdye hh. It was the "sexiest" of the black leathers imo and the jacket I handled in it had variation to the hue, with the black yielding in the light to an almost burgundy/brown in some places. That said, I've had to fight with my JL 3.5 (4oz?) hh jacket in order to get it to soften up, which it has in the areas that get the most movement. It took the better part of a year, and I basically lived in it when at home, fidgeting and napping in it. Which I like, but not everyone wants that. If you're riding and want something that is comfortable and has a great range of motion straight away, I'd consider the steer. Even thicker weights feel more pliable than their horse, yet still robust. That said, if it were me getting another black jacket, I would definitely get the black overdye, just because of how unique it looked and the potential to age into something truly special. It'll break in eventually anyway!

 

[Rugby]

@Canuck Panda @Rugby I’d like to just tap your brain if if I could. I just received some black leather samples from Damon. I love the cxlhh overdye, of course. Do either of you happen to have any pics how the leather develops? I’m actually surprised how plastic it looks out of the gate! Also curious how much time invested is required to get an overdye jacket to loosen up, or become pliable. The current selection is 3.25 oz.

Of the five samples, I like the potential of the overdye best. But I kinda like a 3.5 oz. steerhide called Cavalier too. It’s reminiscent of Schott’s 141 or 118 leather. It’s soft, pliable, and has a matte finish. I imagine it would be a nice flexible, warm riding jacket right out of the gate. I originally purchased a 141, but had to return it because of it’s short arm length. So a similar leather is a contender.

I mentioned warm, because I’m curious about your experience with the overdye CXL. Does it get stiffer and cold feeling when temperature is lower? I have an uninsulated leather jacket that does that, and it’s not so comfortable under 50*F. (I’m planning on the quilted nylon lining for this build, so it’ll be a little bit insulated).

I’ll include a few pics of the leather samples in the next post. I’m too lazy to send them to my iPad from my phone.

I've got the overdye cxl in a 4+oz hh. It does look kinda plastiky at the beginning but it develops good character with time...long time. I've had it for a couple of years and it just now has started to develop a worn look. It is warm and to be honest, it is a tank of a jacket. I love it. I have a hybrid design of motorcycle/half belt jacket. It's stiff off the box but not restrictively stiff like the same weight LW hh. If you get a bike jacket of that hide opt for two way zipper.
I highly recommend the hide, but that it personal preference.
I have the schott steerhide in their leather version of the peacoat, and I wish it were the overdye cxl. I just like that hide.
Good luck. Damon is very helpful and great to work with.
Ofcourse I'm not a leathersmith like @Canuck Panda, I just know what I like

 

[Gr8Lakes]

@Entropindigo @Rugby Thank you so much for your assistance. I’m extremely grateful. Definitely leaning into the CXL more and more. I’m not afraid of a break in period, and I don’t “need” it for riding right away, although I’d eventually like it to be my primary riding jacket.

Definitely a 2-way zip! Already on my list. Hate, hate, hate jackets that push up into my neck, and do not like folding them under at the waste. I had a 5* built with a 19” front length that works great for riding, but I don’t wear it casually because it’s so cropped compared to most modern jackets. 2-way zip cures that, even if it’s a pain to zip sometimes.

(I’m happily to hear anyone else that has has an opinion!)

 

[MrProper]

@Entropindigo @Rugby Thank you so much for your assistance. I’m extremely grateful. Definitely leaning into the CXL more and more. I’m not afraid of a break in period, and I don’t “need” it for riding right away, although I’d eventually like it to be my primary riding jacket.

Definitely a 2-way zip! Already on my list. Hate, hate, hate jackets that push up into my neck, and do not like folding them under at the waste. I had a 5* built with a 19” front length that works great for riding, but I don’t wear it casually because it’s so cropped compared to most modern jackets. 2-way zip cures that, even if it’s a pain to zip sometimes.

(I’m happily to hear anyone else that has has an opinion!)

Team 2-way zip. Should I ever have to change the zippers of my jackets, 2-way zippers come in.
And I also like CXL. In the meantime, I prefer steer to horses, but in a pinch I'll take a horse.

 

[Helix]

@Entropindigo @Rugby Thank you so much for your assistance. I’m extremely grateful. Definitely leaning into the CXL more and more. I’m not afraid of a break in period, and I don’t “need” it for riding right away, although I’d eventually like it to be my primary riding jacket.

Definitely a 2-way zip! Already on my list. Hate, hate, hate jackets that push up into my neck, and do not like folding them under at the waste. I had a 5* built with a 19” front length that works great for riding, but I don’t wear it casually because it’s so cropped compared to most modern jackets. 2-way zip cures that, even if it’s a pain to zip sometimes.

(I’m happily to hear anyone else that has has an opinion!)

Funny, I’m wearing mine today because it’s a bit chilly here in the Bay Area. I don’t have much to add and echo everything @Entropindigo and @Rugby said. It is a little stiff at first on a cold morning, even after a few years but quickly softens back up from body heat. Here are a few pics of worn areas.

 

[Helix]

View attachment 513165
Here's the 5 Damon has on hand. . From left: (#1) is the Black Cavelier Steerhide, 3.5 oz. that's similar to Schott's 141/118. Smooth, matte finish that's soft to the touch. Not very interesting, but still very nice. Kinda classy looking. (#2) is Kampelli Steerhide, 3.5 oz. It's large pebbled, super soft, and very pliable. This is what I imagine when people say "buttery." Like rub it on your cheek soft. Smells good too. (#3) is the Horween CXL Overdye Horsehide 3-3.25 oz. A little stiff & waxy feeling with a lot of shine. Delicious CXL smell! Most potential, but probably looks like a jacket made out of a trash bag on day one. However, in a few years it’s going to look better than anything else - legacy jacket. Comes with an up-charge of about 300 beans. (4) Biker Black Steerhide, 3.5 oz. It's smaller pebbled, pliable and kinda soft, but not as soft as 1 or 2. Feels rugged, but kinda rubbery. Reminds me a little of Vanson's Firenze, and I think a jacket would squeak (sample squeaks). (5) Midnight Black Steerhide, 3.25-3.5 oz. Smooth. Lots of shine, even more than 3. Feels kinda like CXL but a little more pliable. My least favorite initially, but the grain that shows after it's folded stays. I'm guessing this would develop some amazing grain with use, and probably kinda quickly and easily. A little squeaky, don't know if that would improve or worsen.

View attachment 513167
If not the Horween, I'd choose this for it's matte finish and smooth soft touch. Especially since I originally wanted a Schott 141, but couldn't find a good fit.


View attachment 513168
Midnight Black Steerhide after wadding into a ball, squeezing, then lying flat. This stuff has some serious potential. Kinda shocking. Softer now too. This would break in super fast in my opinion. (Might squeak).


View attachment 513169
Horween CXL next to the two soft Steerhides.

View attachment 513170
These two are the softest, and would probably feel like a sweatshirt from day one. No break in needed.

Do they still have the heavy black goat leather? I thought that was pretty nice but it probably won't patina as much. Felt thick but very pliable. I believe @Canuck Panda has a jacket made with that leather.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Gr8Lakes I will echo what others said about the overdye Horween and would also recommend it. It takes a lot to break in this hide. But it is also very wearable when new.

Here was my Johnson overdye CXL when new, very smooth and very shiny:

Here it is now a year later, there is still a shine but more mellow and mottling grains starting to peak through:

And about zippers, JL used USA YKK on my jacket, it has a smoother operation than the imported ones. Two way zip is what I would go with too. JL can also get Riri, but for the overdye I am leaning towards the bigger US YKK.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Do they still have the heavy black goat leather? I thought that was pretty nice but it probably won't patina as much. Felt thick but very pliable. I believe @Canuck Panda has a jacket made with that leather.

The heavy goatskin is really special leather but depends on availability. Last time I checked which was a while ago there were only about 3.5 to 4 oz available. The one trucker jacket I have weighs more than 8 lbs and I assume it is at least 4.5oz. The thicker goatskin (when available) is a great alternative to the deerskin hides. I remember I got lucky with this hide in the fall. Will try my luck again this coming fall to see if available.

 

[Gr8Lakes]

Thank you all! So helpful to see some examples, especially as it ages. Yup, I’m all in on the CXL. No CXL steer available currently, but I’m good with pony.

Nothing better than appreciating a jacket more and more as it ages. Especially with a 15 year old son that’ll eventually want to “borrow” it. Now I just have to decide on hardware, lining, and stitching colors.

Awesome contributions, thanks so much!

 

[MTS]

Man I love the look of that overdye CXL!

 

[Pandemic]

I hate to bug Damon when I’m just kicking around ideas and far from placing an order, so I’ll ask those of you who’ve been I. The store recently: so they currently have any thick tan suedes or rough-outs?

I’m thinking about a Matchless Spectre blouson jacket in a more substantial hide and a film-accurate colour.