Canuck Panda
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,730
I spent lots of time this weekend doing photos and videos and a lot of measuring, in the hope to understand why some patterns are raved by some and not others and why I tend to like some better than others. This thirst to know drives this hobby for me and I've just realized now, that while doing so, along with my potty mouth, I've unintentionally caused harm to those who were helpful in my quest. I am very sorry. I wished I could undo what I've done. Perhaps the best thing now is for me to move forward so you can see my intends were not from a place of harm.
So here are my Johnson Truckers...
JL have two types, one is slim fit they called Slim Fit Type III, and these are the sizing number I got:
Type-III
Medium
Shoulder – 18”
‘Sleeve – 26”
Pit to Pit – 21.5”
Back Length – 25”
Bottom Hem – 19”
Large
Shoulder – 18.5”
Sleeve – 27”
Pit to Pit – 22”
Back Length – 25”
Bottom Hem – 19..5”
I have Levis denim truckers in Medium with almost the same dimensions as the JL medium and it was too restrictive for me that I've chopped the sleeves off, and is why I went with the Large size.
Fit pics first. This is the 5oz goatskin in black. This is also the third heaviest jacket I have to date, at 8 lbs. It is also one of the softest jacket I have. It has a naked waxy finish and hopefully will patina fast like other types of leather.
This jacket started off as a bitter sweet jacket for me. I did not like the cut, out of the box. I prefer short over long, round vs pointy. This jacket is both longer (in the front, 23"), and pointy at the shoulders. The sleeve length I knew was gonna be long going in, and I now kinda understand why the stock pattern was cut this way. But this was surprisingly one of my best leather to date but not on a pattern I fell in love with out of the box. This bitter sweet ness however, lead me to a laser focused pattern comparisons which lead to some discoveries which I will post after these truckers.
Long (er) front and longer sleeves:
Pointy Shoulders:
The other trucker pattern Johnson has is called the M-LEI. Here is the dims I got:
M-LEI
Size 42
Shoulder – 18”
Sleeve – 25”
Pit to Pit- 22.5”
Back Length –24”
Bottom Hem – 21”
Size 44
Shoulder – 19”
Sleeve – 26”
Pit to Pit- 23.5”
Back Length – 24”
Bottom Hem – 22”
I am less of a P2P metrics guy more of a Shoulders metrics guy so I defaulted to the 44 size. But the hem is a bit loose for me so I asked to taper down to what the 42 would be (42" around the hem sweep).
I also wanted more jackets out of this one, so I asked for cafe racer collar, detachable leather dress collar, detachable fur collar. And zipper closure instead of buttons or snaps. The idea behind it was to get three jackets in one. My FrankenTrucker in color block #8 CXL FQHH...
Cafe Racer Trucker. The brass snaps looks like leather fetish collars in the cafe racer mode and unfortunately not my intention...
Dress collar zip trucker:
Winter fur collar Trucker:
A pic of the back and side, this pattern measures short, but fits longer, will get to that in the pattern post, but it's about the higher shoulder rise (over width) and more slope length that helps it to hang about the same the slim fit (longer) one that has shorter rise (over width) and less slope length. Cinched in tightest position would also raise the back, and not air tight enough for riding. So my cafe racer plan has failed in terms of function.
That's my two very different JL truckers. They are at the opposite ends of the pattern (shoulder/sleeve) designs. The M500 would slot right in the middle of these two. The slim fit trucker actually is the same pattern design as the M200, just longer and in trucker deisgn. The regular fit M-LEI is the same pattern design as the Langlitz / Lewis Mk1, but Langlitz went one step further and added underarm footballs.
Hope this post brought you some entertaining values over this weekend. If not enough, here is some waterproofing videos I've made:
Johnson Overdye CXL (has some form of waterproofing) finish. The water beads off faster:
Versus the regular CXL Aero uses. Still very water resistant with just wax and oil, but water beads off slower and it got damp at the end of the 1 minute tap water test, whereas the Overdye is still dry. But the Overdye is new and the Aero CXL is used, so there is that factory to consider too. I think my tap is limited to 1.8 GPM, so whatever that would translate to actual rain fall and duration. No math on weekends for me...
Not enough time today but more pattern comparisons coming...
So here are my Johnson Truckers...
JL have two types, one is slim fit they called Slim Fit Type III, and these are the sizing number I got:
Type-III
Medium
Shoulder – 18”
‘Sleeve – 26”
Pit to Pit – 21.5”
Back Length – 25”
Bottom Hem – 19”
Large
Shoulder – 18.5”
Sleeve – 27”
Pit to Pit – 22”
Back Length – 25”
Bottom Hem – 19..5”
I have Levis denim truckers in Medium with almost the same dimensions as the JL medium and it was too restrictive for me that I've chopped the sleeves off, and is why I went with the Large size.
Fit pics first. This is the 5oz goatskin in black. This is also the third heaviest jacket I have to date, at 8 lbs. It is also one of the softest jacket I have. It has a naked waxy finish and hopefully will patina fast like other types of leather.
This jacket started off as a bitter sweet jacket for me. I did not like the cut, out of the box. I prefer short over long, round vs pointy. This jacket is both longer (in the front, 23"), and pointy at the shoulders. The sleeve length I knew was gonna be long going in, and I now kinda understand why the stock pattern was cut this way. But this was surprisingly one of my best leather to date but not on a pattern I fell in love with out of the box. This bitter sweet ness however, lead me to a laser focused pattern comparisons which lead to some discoveries which I will post after these truckers.
Long (er) front and longer sleeves:
Pointy Shoulders:
The other trucker pattern Johnson has is called the M-LEI. Here is the dims I got:
M-LEI
Size 42
Shoulder – 18”
Sleeve – 25”
Pit to Pit- 22.5”
Back Length –24”
Bottom Hem – 21”
Size 44
Shoulder – 19”
Sleeve – 26”
Pit to Pit- 23.5”
Back Length – 24”
Bottom Hem – 22”
I am less of a P2P metrics guy more of a Shoulders metrics guy so I defaulted to the 44 size. But the hem is a bit loose for me so I asked to taper down to what the 42 would be (42" around the hem sweep).
I also wanted more jackets out of this one, so I asked for cafe racer collar, detachable leather dress collar, detachable fur collar. And zipper closure instead of buttons or snaps. The idea behind it was to get three jackets in one. My FrankenTrucker in color block #8 CXL FQHH...
Cafe Racer Trucker. The brass snaps looks like leather fetish collars in the cafe racer mode and unfortunately not my intention...
Dress collar zip trucker:
Winter fur collar Trucker:
A pic of the back and side, this pattern measures short, but fits longer, will get to that in the pattern post, but it's about the higher shoulder rise (over width) and more slope length that helps it to hang about the same the slim fit (longer) one that has shorter rise (over width) and less slope length. Cinched in tightest position would also raise the back, and not air tight enough for riding. So my cafe racer plan has failed in terms of function.
That's my two very different JL truckers. They are at the opposite ends of the pattern (shoulder/sleeve) designs. The M500 would slot right in the middle of these two. The slim fit trucker actually is the same pattern design as the M200, just longer and in trucker deisgn. The regular fit M-LEI is the same pattern design as the Langlitz / Lewis Mk1, but Langlitz went one step further and added underarm footballs.
Hope this post brought you some entertaining values over this weekend. If not enough, here is some waterproofing videos I've made:
Johnson Overdye CXL (has some form of waterproofing) finish. The water beads off faster:
Versus the regular CXL Aero uses. Still very water resistant with just wax and oil, but water beads off slower and it got damp at the end of the 1 minute tap water test, whereas the Overdye is still dry. But the Overdye is new and the Aero CXL is used, so there is that factory to consider too. I think my tap is limited to 1.8 GPM, so whatever that would translate to actual rain fall and duration. No math on weekends for me...
Not enough time today but more pattern comparisons coming...