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Johnson Leather Jacket

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,644
So that Vermont leather... why the hell did I let TFL talk me into CXL, lol, jk. The Vermont leather is supple, pliable, and remarkably light, vs CXL being stiff, hard wearing, and heavy. Vermont is very easy wearing, you could almost equate it to a lambskin jacket. And I got to see your original jacket, beautiful jacket btw, wish it was in my size, actually, probably best that it wasn't, lol.

I'd say the character and richness isn't quite on par with CXL, but they're definitely related/close, and the trade off for comfort easily outweighs what small amount of aesthetic you give up.

I’ve been wearing both the JL in Vermont and the Premier HWM in CXL a lot since getting them, and gotta +1 this again.

Between the pattern and leather, the JL is WAY more comfortable-wearing of the two.

Here are few bonus shots of the JL in appreciation

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red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,948
Location
London
I’ve been wearing both the JL in Vermont and the Premier HWM in CXL a lot since getting them, and gotta +1 this again.

Between the pattern and leather, the JL is WAY more comfortable-wearing of the two.

Here are few bonus shots of the JL in appreciation

View attachment 350057 View attachment 350058

JL have yeears of experience making funcrional jackets :)

Yep, this jacket really looks cool, and I really like how you paired it with the trousers. Need to take a leaf of your book on this one :D
 

TheDonEffect

Practically Family
Messages
623
Well to be fair, the leather makes a huuuuuge difference, like comparing cardboard to cloth. I was astonished how soft and pliable the Vermont leather is, I think largely due to CXL being designed for more hardier applications like bags and shoes and Vermont for actual garments.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,644
JL have yeears of experience making funcrional jackets :)

Yep, this jacket really looks cool, and I really like how you paired it with the trousers. Need to take a leaf of your book on this one :D

By all means - take that leaf and run with it :)

Also been thinking that long strip of piping / felled stitching along the main zip is begging to be made of a nice contrasting leather….
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
I’ve been wearing both the JL in Vermont and the Premier HWM in CXL a lot since getting them, and gotta +1 this again.

Between the pattern and leather, the JL is WAY more comfortable-wearing of the two.

Here are few bonus shots of the JL in appreciation

View attachment 350057 View attachment 350058
Sweet looking jacket! JL has a real knack of constructing a functional jacket so that's a big plus they have on Aero. Love the shiny brass here, maybe I picked too conservatively with the antique brass on mine.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,644
Sweet looking jacket! JL has a real knack of constructing a functional jacket so that's a big plus they have on Aero. Love the shiny brass here, maybe I picked too conservatively with the antique brass on mine.

Funny you mention the antique brass. It was my first choice then I decided I wanted the contrast.

Getting my wear in today, handling chores around the house in a crosszip like a maniac

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Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,644
I’ll take any excuse heh

I do want to see if the arms shorten any with wear. Seems doubtful but I’m curious. And I’d also like to get some of the new jacket look knocked off before Fall comes.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA

Liam33

New in Town
Messages
7
There's a new German brown horsehide (kinda like nubuck), looks great.

This is my first post, so not sure how it will be received. I’m working with Damon at JL (great guy) on a custom CR-76 for my first ever leather jacket. (Very excited for this)

I can’t decide between the above described German veg tan HH that @Jin431 mentioned is similar to nubuck, or a Brown CXL, or the dark brown vermont that @Mrfrown and @JCSD used. I want a natural looking darker brown that will patina like a veg tan, have good depth and color variation.

I’m wondering how this German veg tan will age. The swatch kind of looks similar to this “nutmeg busan” from Vanson Portland: https://www.thurston-bros.com/products/vanson-portland-busan-size-medium
it’s super pliable and light at 2.5oz.

I wouldn’t be surprised if it got lighter from the sun, or it could get much darker since Damon said it’s an unfinished naked HH that will absorb everything, but it’s not technically a Nubuck. I wish I could see it on a jacket. Here’s a photo of the swatch:
 

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Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,644
This is my first post, so not sure how it will be received. I’m working with Damon at JL (great guy) on a custom CR-76 for my first ever leather jacket. (Very excited for this)

I can’t decide between the above described German veg tan HH that @Jin431 mentioned is similar to nubuck, or a Brown CXL, or the dark brown vermont that @Mrfrown and @JCSD used. I want a natural looking darker brown that will patina like a veg tan, have good depth and color variation.

I’m wondering how this German veg tan will age. The swatch kind of looks similar to this “nutmeg busan” from Vanson Portland: https://www.thurston-bros.com/products/vanson-portland-busan-size-medium
it’s super pliable and light at 2.5oz.

I wouldn’t be surprised if it got lighter from the sun, or it could get much darker since Damon said it’s an unfinished naked HH that will absorb everything, but it’s not technically a Nubuck. I wish I could see it on a jacket. Here’s a photo of the swatch:

Hello and welcome Liam!

I also got the German Ranger brown swatch and almost went with it. I did find a picture of it on a jacket from Simmons Bilt here: https://simmonsbilt.com/pages/leathers

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I ended up going with the Vermont because Damon said it would resist water a little better.

The leathers are all different, but CXL is more robust than either the Vermont or Ranger…ultimately you’ll have to decide what seems most appealing and run with it!

Don’t be surprised if you end up getting a few more jackets down the line, you know, just to try out the different builds, leathers, etc :)
 

TheDonEffect

Practically Family
Messages
623
Before you consider CXL, understand that it's like wearing cardboard armor that will eventually break in one day. If you want any sort of instant gratification, go with the other two, I'm sure Damon will echo a similar sentiment. It's very similar to wearing 18+oz raw denim vs ubiquitous stretch denim. The CXL will give you the satisfaction one day of breaking it in and being really personal to you, but it isn't like other leathers won't do that. Lots of members here go through great lengths to break in CXL that is described to "break in easy".

Damon has Mr Frown's first jacket in the showroom in the Vermont leather so you could check it out. Between the Vermont and German HH, I'd go Vermont because it's a more known quantity being Horween. I don't remember seeing the German HH in brown there, but I have seen the black, and it's not teacore so in the long long run won't have any brown poking through. Of course with brown that's different.

I'm a big fan of the way CXL looks, having it side by side with my "normal" 3oz naked cowhide jacket, the difference is abundantly clear, and imo the Vermont has 95% of the character of the CXL but 1000% more wearable.

If you do go CXL, go with a more fitted fit, the stiffness is actually better when it's fitted since the leather doesn't bulk and wrinkle, instead it will give you tinman from Wizard of Ox vibes, so having it close to the body will force it to bend with you. That was the mistake I made with mine, I gave it alot of room for layers and then remembered I live in CA, lol.
 

Liam33

New in Town
Messages
7
Hello and welcome Liam!
Thanks @Mrfrown !

Don’t be surprised if you end up getting a few more jackets down the line, you know, just to try out the different builds, leathers, etc :)
. Haha just don't let my spouse hear this...

The CXL will give you the satisfaction one day of breaking it in and being really personal to you, but it isn't like other leathers won't do that.
Thanks @TheDonEffect , that's good info. I think I'll stay away from the CXL for now. I love the idea of working to break it in and make it my own, but i'm concerned the CXL even broken in won't ever get to the look and feel of a classic veg tan.

Damon has Mr Frown's first jacket in the showroom in the Vermont leather so you could check it out.

I live in South Carolina, so that's why I need help lol. Its tough having all these questions and not being able to walk into the store.. especially when about about to drop over $1k. I know Damon is super busy so I don't want to keep bugging him ha

The Vermont looks incredibly cool @Mrfrown , but could be just a little too dark for what I've got my heart set on for my main jacket? Maybe it will lighten in the sunlight? Will that Vermont start to get a patina polish look? or will it get more matte?

This was my original inspiration, just a naked full aniline veg tan cowhide or horsehide in a slightly darker, natural looking brown. I wish I could see what else was available similar to this

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ericsanpablo31

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Vancouver
Thanks @Mrfrown !

. Haha just don't let my spouse hear this...

Thanks @TheDonEffect , that's good info. I think I'll stay away from the CXL for now. I love the idea of working to break it in and make it my own, but i'm concerned the CXL even broken in won't ever get to the look and feel of a classic veg tan.



I live in South Carolina, so that's why I need help lol. Its tough having all these questions and not being able to walk into the store.. especially when about about to drop over $1k. I know Damon is super busy so I don't want to keep bugging him ha

The Vermont looks incredibly cool @Mrfrown , but could be just a little too dark for what I've got my heart set on for my main jacket? Maybe it will lighten in the sunlight? Will that Vermont start to get a patina polish look? or will it get more matte?

This was my original inspiration, just a naked full aniline veg tan cowhide or horsehide in a slightly darker, natural looking brown. I wish I could see what else was available similar to this

View attachment 351536

btw I think these guys got a darker brown horween vermont. The horween vermont espresso I had was definitely lighter, maybe reach out to JL and see what they have.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
This is my first post, so not sure how it will be received. I’m working with Damon at JL (great guy) on a custom CR-76 for my first ever leather jacket. (Very excited for this)

I can’t decide between the above described German veg tan HH that @Jin431 mentioned is similar to nubuck, or a Brown CXL, or the dark brown vermont that @Mrfrown and @JCSD used. I want a natural looking darker brown that will patina like a veg tan, have good depth and color variation.

I’m wondering how this German veg tan will age. The swatch kind of looks similar to this “nutmeg busan” from Vanson Portland: https://www.thurston-bros.com/products/vanson-portland-busan-size-medium
it’s super pliable and light at 2.5oz.

I wouldn’t be surprised if it got lighter from the sun, or it could get much darker since Damon said it’s an unfinished naked HH that will absorb everything, but it’s not technically a Nubuck. I wish I could see it on a jacket. Here’s a photo of the swatch:

Welcome @Liam33 and advanced congratulations on your first leather jacket and a bespoke one at that.

Shoot I was just at JL today and had not read that you wanted a photo of a made jacket with that brown German horsehide. My apologies but I believe @technovox may have a sample of that brown German HH that had a nubuck textured finish. I have a pair of horse butt boots that have a similar finish to it, it's still full grain but has a suede like finish and its weird in a good way.

I also have the dark brown Vermont and that should show (hopefully) lighter brown notes when it wears because it has a lighter brown core but our jackets are so new we can only speculate but it will be so easy to wear and tolerable to wear when it's not so cold out . The brown CXL will also show lighter brown sometimes reddish brown tones when it wears off but the trade off is the leather is not comfortable at all and it might take a while to get it to drape and wear properly since it's so stiff. They also offer a lighter shade of brown Vermont but it looks chocolate milk to me so it wasn't for me.

There is a Horween hide called Milan, JL offers it in black in store but it also comes in brown and there was a recent post about it and that leather is absolutely gorgeous. That might be another one to look into

Check with Damon if he can source a brown Horween Essex, that will be a good option too as I heard it's similar to CXL richness and depth of color without the cardboard feel but I have not handled one although @regius might be able to elaborate more about Essex leather.
 
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technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,241
Location
San Francisco
Welcome @Liam33 and advanced congratulations on your first leather jacket and a bespoke one at that.

Shoot I was just at JL today and had not read that you wanted a photo of a made jacket with that brown German horsehide. My apologies but I believe @technovox may have a sample of that brown German HH that had a nubuck textured finish. I have a pair of horse butt boots that have a similar finish to it, it's still full grain but has a suede like finish and its weird in a good way.
Yes, I do have JL working on a new jacket for me in their German Horsehide- a limited batch they'd just received. The leather had a beautiful suede like finish, loads of character, and just the weight and thickness I was looking for (2.75.) The color palette is a cross between tan and natural...kind of similar to Thedi's Cuio buffalo, maybe a tad lighter and not as saturated.
My jacket is still in their queue. I'll post some pics when I take delivery- should be in a month or so.
Here's a photo of a half-belt in the German Horsehide. It's really hard to capture the true color of this leather.
IMG_4434.jpg
 
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TheDonEffect

Practically Family
Messages
623
If you peruse the photos Jin posted of his Horween Vermont, I find that the color in his photos is pretty accurate to what you can expect in person. It has a lot of character and depth, a notable step away from anything you'll find at a mall.

Jin, I was wondering if it was a teacore of sorts, so thanks for mentioning that it isn't dyed through but has a lighter core.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Yes, I do have JL working on a new jacket for me in their German Horsehide- a limited batch they'd just received. The leather had a beautiful suede like finish, loads of character, and just the weight and thickness I was looking for (2.75.) The color palette is a cross between tan and natural...kind of similar to Thedi's Cuio buffalo, maybe a tad lighter and not as saturated.
My jacket is still in their queue. I'll post some pics when I take delivery- should be in a month or so.
Here's a photo of a half-belt in the German Horsehide. It's really hard to capture the true color of this leather.
View attachment 351609

Looks great in the photo and even better in real life. That hide seems like it will show nice wear and I'm guessing it should darken over time some too. Pls do post f/u pic when you can.

If you peruse the photos Jin posted of his Horween Vermont, I find that the color in his photos is pretty accurate to what you can expect in person. It has a lot of character and depth, a notable step away from anything you'll find at a mall.

Jin, I was wondering if it was a teacore of sorts, so thanks for mentioning that it isn't dyed through but has a lighter core.

The Seal Vermont is a good option for a dark brown jacket and it is similar in how cxl burgundy/cordovan is tricky to photograph because the color/shade seems to be change Under different lighting condition

The Vermont is a full grain/drum dyed/full veg tanned/tumbled/smooth leather. It is not full aniline and seems to have a pigment finished top coat as evident with having a lighter brown core.
 

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