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Johnson leather Horween 6oz cxl overdye D-pocket and 4.5 -5oz CXL natural LeatherTogs project

navetsea

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if you get rid of the belt and loops, probably the D pocket then needs to be lowered a little.
then the chest area would look a bit empty without chest pocket perhaps?
 

Hh121

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if you get rid of the belt and loops, probably the D pocket then needs to be lowered a little.
then the chest area would look a bit empty without chest pocket perhaps?
Thank you, it makes sense, I just found the perfect example of j-82 repro I'd like to go with in terms of pocket shape and position.
pic 1.jpg
 

navetsea

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if you go without action back and the leather is super thick, perhaps you might consider pre rotating the sleeve forward a little more. but if you do, you better add a bit more length on the sleeve, as the front part of the sleeve might ride up a little when you have your arm down on the side.
 

navetsea

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Ok so 6oz waxed leather will be estimated 2.0-2.2 mm thick. Breaking in 2mm thick leather is tough. Breaking in 6mm of leather is nearly impossible and the jacket will have seams that thick. So in order for that jacket to ever break in and not look like a cardboard box, you should aim for as few seams as possible. Long story short:no action back and avoid multi panel constructions. As few panels and accordingly few seams as possible is the best advice I have.

By no collar studs do you mean no studs on collar or also no studs on the lapels? Because I would defo get studs on the lapels to make sure they stay put and lay flat. Otherwise you may have the "vanson arrow" problems of the lapels being everywhere but not lieing flat as they should.

on my thick vegtan the gusset has not get soft enough to function at all, but maybe in the future it would I can see it is softening, on the seams probably the leather get skived so it won't matter much I think, making the lapel wet is the only way I can fold mine, and once dried in folded position it becomes its neutral state, I previously plan to add a snap there once the leather get broken in a bit but turned out it doesn't require one.
however when the jacket is fully zipped I can see some snaps there on the chest area add something to the look and bring some symmetry to a wildly unsymmetrical jacket.
 

Hh121

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I wish, but I meant the photo of the repro you posted. I’m interested to see how this plays out. 6oz in this beautiful leather has got me thinking.
you may want experience totally different, another level (Top!)customer service and ordering process. It is like upgrade economy class to first class at international flight.
 
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They are awesome and great to deal with. JL relined one of my jackets and installed a new main zip on another. I’ve actually inquired about having them build a jacket but then got distracted by the Midnight Blue Aero Chips. I need to circle back at some point.
 

J Leather Investigater

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Wilmington n.c.
Very interesting project, I wish you the best of luck. Are you sure you want 6oz hide? Seems like to much but I hope it works and your happy. The style you are choosing is a + can't go wrong there, i look forward to the development of this one!
 
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Do you have a sample swatch of the 6oz hide?
Yeah I’d like to see that too. I said it before and I’ll say it again. I’d ask for at least 7.5oz ...if it’s a true 6 you are after. In my experience JL overshoots the weight a bit. Knowing your feelings about the importance of weight. You best get a sample.
 
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Hh121

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3,004
Yeah I’d like to see that too. I said it before and I’ll say it again. I’d ask for at least 7.5oz ...if it’s a true 6 you are after. In my experience JL overshoots the weight a bit.
6oz is the thickest they(or anybody)can do, Alan is going to send me a sample of 6oz, he is also going to test if the machine is ok with 6oz hide.
 

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